volkswagen up slave cylinder pump

Answers and questions: volkswagen up slave cylinder pump

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 new clutchand find out the trans is indeed shot.

last night i tried to start the carjust to try and make sure i have everything rightthen tried the different gears....1stand 2nd went smoothly3rd is shotwont even go injust grinds.4wont go in at allbut doesnt grindand 5th goes inbut something isnt right with that either.it was also acting weird. so i guess im in for another trans now.anyone have a good one thanks 99 passat 1.8 t 5 speed.

update. i went out earlier and tried this. i pushed the clutch in and started the carin 1st gear. the wheels automatically started turning. and they keep turning weather i have the clutch in or out. only thing that makes the wheels stop turning is putting it in neutral. so im guessing something wrong with the slavemaster cylinder at this point. a also i shut the car offand put the trans into 3rd.and

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 Spungy breaks

Hi I got a passat -99 1.8 (thats pretty slow ).. I have noticed that the breaks is not what they should be... its not hard to push down the pedal but it travels a bit towards the floor and it doesnt seem to give any direct response in deceleration... However if I press and hold the break pedal and then after a short while quickly releases the foot and tries to break again there is no resistance what-so-ever..

well I wouldnt call it pump them up but thats what I do... so now when I think about it maybe I should make another bleeding of the system... When I bleed the system I do it in correct order (RRRL FRFL).. I do not use the traditional pumping-method but instead I apply pressure to the break cylinder via a hose from the spare tire... that should work just as well.. or One problem that I had the last

View Slave cylinder, pump for VOLKSWAGEN UP

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 DIY Brake Fluid replacement VW MKIV specific.

Sure this can help you guys too. I made this on vwvortex.com Quick and to the point the reason to change your brake fluid is to save your ass Brake fluid is a hydroscopic which means it attracts water big deal right Wrong through the brake lines and through your resevoir brake fluid attracts water water has a really low boiling point the more water in your lines the lower your boiling point. So you

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 Which brake fluid to use

What are folks using for brake fluid - DOT4 or something special like a synthetic On our B5 I looked at the brake fluid and it is green. Its clean so I do not think it is green from being dirty. I have not seen green fluid before. All input welcome

is marketing bull pure and simple. That said Valvoline and Castrol LMA are quality DoT-4 compliant fluids. Ive used both with good results. 2. DoT-5 is a silicone based fluid that is NOT COMPATABLE with glycol based fluids. YOU CANNOT MIX THEM. DoT-5 is inappropriate to use in any application unless a. You have completely flushed out all the brake fluid from the vehicle b. The ABS system supports

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 Bleeding the brakes on a 5 spd 1.8T

So it has been way too long since Ive had the brakes bled on my car. WAY TOO LONG Anyhow this time I want to do it myself. What is the general concensous about which brake fluid to use Remembering that this is a 5 spd AEB so the clutch is also involved in the common fluid resavoir. Any funky tricks anyone knows The Best fluid to use (high end stuff) Anything else Thanks guys and gals

Get some Valvoline Synpower fluid some Speedbleeders and optionally a vacuum and use this DIY procedure. I ended up doing the clutch manually since I couldnt find the electric pump he used and the larger container I modified my manual vacuum pump with would start collapsing before enough vacuum built up to suck the fluid out of the slave cylinder.

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT B5 clutch pedal completely sunk in need help

driving along clutch and pedal started to sink to the point i could not put it in gear. need some help to diagnose and repair

Simply topping off the reservoir isnt going to get the clutch pedal to pump back up. If a master or slave cylinder failed youll need to replace the bad part. If the fluid level was low and you sucked some air into the hydraulic system or if you replace parts of the system itll need to be bled. Tips for bleeding clutch fluid

Best top of the line brake fluid

I had been suggested in my road-racing thread that I should be using dot4 brake fluid in my car if I plan to road race or auto x. Im assuming these cars came stock w dot3 or dot2 but am hoping its forwards compatible w dot4 Is there a preferred style of dot4 for these cars or will any of the high end manufacturers work

Quote Originally Posted by volkswagens-for-life Once a year Is that what the owners manual calls for The owners manual never discusses this... Brake fluid is hygroscopic...so it sucks moisture into it from the very air. It can even pull it in through the rubber in the lines. This moisture breaks down the brake fluid and also starts to corrode the inside of the lines and everything it contacts inside

JEEP WRANGLER Engine swap (Long read but worth it)

Alright Ive been itching since I got my little under powered 2.5L and swapping in something more like me. Im thinking a 4 cylinder diesel. I know the cummins 4bt is a pretty common swap in but theres still too many gray areas. First I was reading a lift is needed to clear the oil pan and a body lift is needed to clear the hood. Second is all of the drive train lenghts and what I would really need to

turbo spool up is awesome and I have not even done any power mods to it. I can wait to blow some black smoke in it. I have a feeling this Jeep has the potential to be faster than my Jeep with the 350. The Cummins swap was for sure ALOT more expensive. Its not easy to find a decent 4bt for less tha 2k unless you have connections and....I would stay away from he Izuzu and definitly dont touch a volkswagen

Brakes

From the top I had the stock brake master cylinder rebuilt I put C5 ZO6 brakes up front and have the stock brakes in the rear I bled the abs block behind the drivers seat went to each corner over and over and still I have a sponge for a pedal it gets stiff then as soon as I start the damn car it takes two pumps for the pedal to get hard again now common sense tells me there is still air in the system

My friends at Baer brakes got into the business by making a bracket to install C-4 calipers on Camaros. They ended up actually reducing the piston area and had a smaller pad. I normally use a 1.125 master on cars. Because the C-4 calipers are so small I have to downsize even with a Hydroboost to 1 on Baer braked Camaros. I have rebuilt the C-4 masters and they for the price are cheap almost volkswagen

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