volkswagen up shaft position sensor
Answers and questions: volkswagen up shaft position sensor
The CEL came on in my 2000 GLX Wagon today and the code was P0346 Cam shaft position sensor sensor
A Bank 2 as was read at Autozone. Anybody have any idea as to whether this is a big deal or a timing adjustment Interestingly enough the timing belt was replaced about 2000 miles ago which could certainly affect the position
of the cam.
Posted by EMB145Driver The CEL came on in my 2000 GLX Wagon today and the code was P0346 Cam shaft position sensor sensor A Bank 2 as was read at Autozone. Anybody have any idea as to whether this is a big deal or a timing adjustment Interestingly enough the timing belt was replaced about 2000 miles ago which could certainly affect the position of the cam. if it were the TB it woulld have shown up
NOTICE THIS IS FOR THE 2001.5 B5.5 AUTOMATIC ONLY AS THE AXLE MOUNTINGS ARE FAR DIFFERENT ON THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF 56k no WAY in HELL. ok so i finally got a chance to get to making this long awaited writeup. this was all made possible by PZs awesome mechanic skills my purchase of the ZF 5hp-19-FLFLA rebuild repair manual (available at www.bulkpart.com for 75) and of course Xyros broken car. this
Im doing the timing belt next month. Im thinking it would be worth removing the frame that holds the radiator and such altogether to make access nice and easy. Sit down in front and reach right at stuff instead of bending down from above or reaching up from below. I will take the car into a shop to have the AC purged before and charged after since the AC hoses must disconnect. Will drain and flush
OK. I did the deed over the last couple of days and I have some useful information to share with whomever is interested. I have a 2001.5 New Body with an AWM engine. Several things in this thread and on DayyMatts otherwise excellent write-up do not jibe with this car. The New Body front end does not come off in the same way as the write-up. To take the bumper cover off you must first pull out (hard)
bolts you removed to allow the lock carrier to move to the service position There are 4 bolts on the right hand side looking from the front of the car (drivers side as Im in the UK) and only 3 bolts but 4 holes on the passenger side which seems odd. If you could post the pictures or even email them itd be a big help. Thanks Dave Originally Posted by btomkovic OK. I did the deed over the last couple
I am in the middle of major maintenance on my 2001.5 V6 ATQ. Doing the timing belt valve cover gaskets CCT seals crankshaft
seals. I have the kit and tools from blauparts. I have gotten the crank and camshaft
seals out. The camshaft
seals are the two behind the timing belt sprockets. I have not removed the cam position sensor
s or the rear caps. The kit does come with additional seals
that when you do your TB. If you do want to do it now undo the bolt and diamond plate and mark the position of the sprocket on the shaft taper. Put a half dozen cable ties around the timing belt to secure it to the sprocket. Put the plate and bolt back in but loose and pull the sprocket with a puller. It takes quite a bit to pop it. After the seal is in place the sprocket back on the shaft line up
Hello All I have an extended crank during start up and CEL 1338 is on. Any guesses I already did some research on this and following are the possibilities 1. Cam and crank are out of sync. 2. Cam timing is off. 3. Timing belt change done recently (Not in my case) 4. Cam shaft position sensor
going bad (I don&8217t think) 5. Short in the wiring. (How can I determine this) Can experts throw some light on this Cheers.
Originally Posted by PZ 110K is pushing it if you have the original timing belt. I would also check the spark plugs they may be worn. A bad Coolant temp sensor can also cause slow starts but they often throw their own code. I am planning to change the Cam shaft position sensor as I have checked the timing and it seems to be fine. Timing belt seems not be missing a tooth as car is mostly doing well .. But as you said just as a precautionary measure I will change the TB along with the sensor. Lets see how it goes. Planning to do the TB with the help of a member here -) hope all goes well. I will update the thread once I get some results. Thank you PZ..
light is off. My symptoms are as follows. I had a P1338 CEL and car was running fine with no issues. When this happens there are few causes based on research I did and trouble shooting I did 1. Cam position sensor going wrong. 2. Cam chain tensioner going wrong. You will hear a rattling sound from the back of the engine towards the passenger side if cam chain tensioner goes wrong. I had seen couple
Is there any way to repair the threads in the cam shaft
for the camshaft
timing pulley bolt Not sure why it stripped so easy but i almost cried when my torque wrench turned on around and no click from the wrench. Any suggestion besides replacing the cam 2003 2.8 V6
and gave it a test start. I had a definite misfire and the smell of some fuel not being burnt. Checked with code checker 5 codes Multi misfire 2 misfire 4 misfire 5 misfire ans Camshaft position sensor A circuit (bank 2). My guess is my timing is off and i would have bet a million dollars (if i had a mill) it was dead nuts on. I ordered my valve cover gaskets and timing tensioner pads from Blauparts
Originally Posted by Tomvw Do not turn anything until you know exactly what you are doing. Valve damage could result. The CCTs are always opposite (one up and the other down) they move in opposite directions. It appears that you have the TB and Timing Chains set wrong. I suggest you carefully turn the crank to TDC 3 remove TB then turn crank counterclockwise about 30 degrees. (valves cant hit pistons
If I should have posted this in the New Member section please let me know and I can repost there After totaling my beloved 1996 Toyota Camry last December having been without my OWN car for almost a year now I am finally in the position
to purchase a new(er) car. I need something inexpensive reliable and good in snow. I have come across a 2001.5 Passat GLX V6 4Motion that I really like a lot. Ive read
Took the engine from a 1998 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro manual and installed in my 1998 Passat 1.8T FWD manual. Obviously transmission from the Passat. I took the complete engine harness (and the ECU) from the A4 into the Passat. Problems a) I ended up with TWO (2) blue connectors (2 pin male) but only ONE (1) blue matching female. Photo of the 2 connectors below. One of those 2 goes straight down to the
exactly what the title says...
- undersquarelong-stroke 496.1 cc per cylinder compression ratio 10.51 cylinder block & crankcase CG25 grey cast iron with liquid-blasted cylinder bore honing 88 mm (3.46 in) cylinder spacing five main bearings die-forged steel crankshaft two simplex-roller chain driven balance shafts cylinder head & valvetrain cast aluminium alloy modified inlet duct geometry for high tumble values providing superior
so not sure if its been posted before but i found this pretty informative troubleshooting guide. credit goes to enginerd over at Elitedubs _____ 1.8T Troubleshooting Guide. We have all seen the common problems that these cars develop and often know right away what symptom what problem. Rather than answer all of these posts I though a troubleshooting guide was in order. Ill get this started with the
Hello new to this forum as Im seeking outside help to try an resolve a problem I cant seem to fix. I drive a 2000 Jetta 2.0 manual tranny. My check engine light popped on and my car proceeded to randomly stall when I clutch typically only at slower speeds and not while I clutch in during highway driving. The car DOES start right back up and ive never encountered a problem with it not starting. I have
Yesterday I did rotors and pads as well as a brake fluid flush for all four wheels. Im writing this at 328 AM because I am sore. This is probably more from the before break workout and all day at a fair though. I used the flushing procedure from httpwww.taligentx.compassatmaintenancebrakefluid and the brake job writeup from Brake pad and rotor replacement Here are some notes I have from the perpective
Disclosure WE are not responsible for what YOU do to YOUR car. That said if you have nopoor heat try flushing your heatercore first. Information I did the swap on a 2000 V6 manual with climatronics. MJ did the swap on a 1998 1.8T manual with manual HVAC. I did the swap without disconnecting the AC. While completing the swap is possible without touching the ac lines there is a much greater chance of
Hello All. Im new to the forum and love this website. It is a valuable resource for all things B6 Passat related. Ive recently completed replacing the rear brakes on my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T Wolfsburg Edition using the VAGCOM cable and I thought I would post a How-To on the P.W. site. I took a look at dhambricks writeup on vwvortex.com and pretty much followed those steps. My write up covers that plus
My wifes 2003 1.8t tip has some serious lag while accelerating. It is throwing the codes P0411(secondary air injection incorrect flow this has been on for a while nothing new) and P0012 (cam shaft position
actuator A-bank 1 timing over-retard). P0012 is a new one that I have never seen on the car before. There is a very rough idle in gear at a stop also. I changed the oil it was due(most likely over
Scotts if its an auto and I need more than this weekend to fix it I may take you up on that. LOL. Cant let here beat around in my moms car for ever... Question is the cam shaft position sensor the same as the cam shaft position actuator I was looking around online and I cant find anything saying actuator just the sensor. I want to make calls but I dont really have time during the day to do so. Thanks for all the help folks.
I did the deed over the last couple of days and I have some useful information to share with whomever is interested. I have a 2001.5 New Body with an AWM engine. Several things in on DayyMatts otherwise excellent write-up do not jibe with this car. The New Body front end does not come off in the same way as the write-up. To take the bumper cover off you must first pull out (difficult) the radiator
Our 2002 Passat Wagon is basically dead in the water. All of the sudden it went from working just fine to showing 19 trouble codes. The codes are listed below P0421 - Warm Up Catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1) P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature circuit low input P0300 - RandomMultiple cylinder misfire detected P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire detected P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire detected P0305 -
Bank 1 Camshaft A (Intake) Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) 16706P0322000802 - Engine Speed sensor (G28) No Signal After CPS and ESS replaced 16706P0322000802 - Engine Speed sensor (G28) No Signal 16727P0343000835 - Camshaft position sensor (G40) Signal too High Get the battery tested and fully charged. It looks like the the sensor might have become loose in the housing and got chewed up
2000 ATW 1.8 130000 miles Ive done a lot of research here and narrowed it down to --valve guide seals or --leaking turbo seals To differentiate between the two it sounds like you factor in --when you see the smoke (under boost probably turbo seals letting off accelerator probably valve guide seals) --whether theres excessive oil in the line that runs to the intercooler Are there any more definitive
Originally Posted by AndrewFC Pulled the air hose that runs to the turbo where it connects with the pipe that leads to the intercooler (just below the radiator). Is this the right one to check Not a drop of oil there so if my turbo seals are leaking has to be on the exhaust side. Looked up some youtube videos with people with blown turbos and I dont have anything near to those problems. Just a little
Hi I have a 2000 with an ATW engine. I bought the car non-running and towed it home. Wednesday I hooked up my Vag-Com and camshaft position sensor
had an issue. Plastic harness was broke but not my main issue as of now. I did a compression test and read 100psi on cyl 1 0 psi on 23 and 4. I took my camshaft
sprocket bar that I used on my TDI and moved the camshaft
back and forth slightly. I noticed
First of all I did a search with some similiar things but wasnt sure. I noticed that my B5.5 2002 Passat V6 Sedans brake lights would not go on so I opened the light housing what not (was a pain since it was driver side) then I tested and turned on the low beam driving lights (running lights) or whatever you want to call them. I noticed they did light up. Both lights would light up in the proccess
Both lights would not light up Hmmm... Next step if the bulb filaments are not the problem is to (1) check all your fuses and (2) check the brake position sensor switch (located at the top of the brake pedal shaft).
sealant D 454 300 A2 sealant AMV 174 004 01 These two sealants are from the Bentley manual the first one is to be used on the rubber valve cover gasket and between the head and outer cam shaft
bearing caps. The second is to be used on the cam chain tensioner gasket. Can anyone tell me what they are Sharky what do you use The Cam chain tensioner gasket came precoated in the corner with some type of sealant should I put some more on
the cam seals. NY Audi which sealer did you settle on for the various procedures under the valve cover. I went to my local dealer and he said none of the mechanics ever use D 454 300 A2. He said hes seen the stuff its a blue gel and never hardens. It remains soft and sticky. He said the mechanics all use D 176 404 A2 which is just sensor safe clear silicone RTV. I wish Bentley would clear this up.