volkswagen up sensors
Answers and questions: volkswagen up sensors
My 03 passat factory reversing sensors
have stopped working. Now when I engage reverse I get a long beep then it stops and nothing happens Either that or when I engage reverse there is no sound at all and nothing happens Is there a switch at the gear stick or are the sensors
wired in near the boot Basically - where do I start my quest to preserve my rear bumper (the wifes reversing you understand not me ) Have you heard of this before
Hi Problem with the wifes 03 passat 2.0L petrol ALT. Abs and esp check lights on checked the rear sensors
(resistance) they are ok but where the hell are the block connectors for the front ones I traced the wires up to where they disappear into a rubber grommet through the wheel arch and thats it cant get behind it to put the multimeter on a connector. Any ideas Where does the wiring go from there
Hi all VW New Beetle 2001 1.8T manual. I have a rough idle for about 20-30 seconds cold. It often sounds like a consistent one cylinder miss with an intermittent rolling miss. I have the Ross Tech VAG 15511552 and pull the random misfire code (16684) and 16687 16685 & 16686 individualcyl misfire codes.Although I have ocassionally seen these codes before there were no drivability problems. This current
Hi Everyone- I have an 03 1.8t AWM that I recently did the timing belt on. I have had a Cooling System Performance CEL for several months so I thought I would finally tackle the issue and start replacing sensors
while i had the car apart. I only thought there was one sensor on the car turns out there might be two One for the gauge and the ECU (between the block and the firewall) and another that kicks
So Ive bought a parking sensor set off amazon and want to install it on my 2001 Passat B5.5 wagon. Hwever theres one thing bothering me - where to put the sensors
I wanted to align them about where the red line on the photo is (not my car on the picture though) However I just noticed that the thick metal bumper is exactly there so Im afraid theres not enough free space between the plastic bumper and
Ok - so this begs the question - what all did you have to do to get this to work besides installing the sensors Ive been wanting to do this for a long time. What other bits and pieces did you need Any write up or info would be great Thanks
a small ratchet with a torx nut. Once the screw is out you need to grab the plastic first-aid-kit holder and pull it out. It is fairly flexible so dont worry if you need to bend it in order to get it out. 3. Once the first-aid-kit holder is removed youre going to notice a black rubber cap on the right. Pull it out or push it inwards (whatever you find easier - i pushed it to the inside). 4. Jack up
Hi I just purchased a Hi-Def(R-GT) rear bumper couple days ago and i have just found out that there is no opening for the parking sensors
so what am I gonna do anyone try to drill holes on it Please help Thanks
I believe the spots to drill are marked on the back and there is a pretty detailed write-up on a Hi-Def install on PW i was just reading it a couple of days ago. SJT
Check out my write-up here Hi-Def R-GT Front Fascia Install w MANY Photos I had to drill the holes for the parking sensors on the already-painted front. Take your time and be careful But its easier than youd think since they are pre-marked on the back side. Youll need new parking sensor holders unless you can salvage yours from your current bumper.
Originally Posted by Bleser Check out my write-up here Hi-Def R-GT Front Fascia Install w MANY Photos I had to drill the holes for the parking sensors on the already-painted front. Take your time and be careful But its easier than youd think since they are pre-marked on the back side. Youll need new parking sensor holders unless you can salvage yours from your current bumper. Thanks for the link.
Originally Posted by B55PASSAT But what I bought is the rear bumper. Is it also pre-marked like the front bumper I cant find any information on that. How do I measure the distance between sensors if its not pre-marked Thanks in advance. All of the hi-def pieces come from the same supplier so I imagine they all follow the same techniques and standards. I would be about 95% sure the holes are pre-marked
I have been having a P0421 CEL for about a year now and have just been resetting it. The mileage between resets has been getting shorter and now my car is due for a smog. Regarding the O2 sensors
would an O2 sensor extension work to eliminate the CEL from P0421 symptom If so does the extension go in the pre-cat or the main cat After reading different posts I have seen 2 completely opposite opinions.
it. The smog check looks to see if all those tests passed or not. Fuels driving habits and patterns spark plug choice the condition of the MAF and other factors have more sway than youd believe in the general health and function of a stock VW cat. As I recall if the cats are junk you could do everything including set readniess for the front O2s but then the rears would not set. They would come up
Awful lot of nice replies for a dead horse Ive got this right now (bank 2 drivers side--cat guts completely separated from housing) and Im trying to be patient with it. As Sharky pointed out you have to fix everything else that MIGHT be related first especially if you have good reason to believe theyre part of the problem. 1. MAF sensor. Clean that mofo I just did a writeup yesterday--even a novice
Thanks all for the replies especially Sharky. Based on your comments I will paint a little better picture for you. I only have a shareware based VAG-COM so it is not fully operational. The only code I have ever had is P0421 which suggests replacement of the catalytic converter. The car runs flawlessly without any hiccups and smooth as a babys bum at idle. I can take the car on the highway and run for
I have the same issue. Had it for the last few years on and off. The head rebuild a few years ago cleaned it up for awhile and then it came back when it was cool out. With inspection due in August it was not a priority. I installed 4 new O2 sensors when I had the trans out last summer (got some OEM sensors cheap). I tried the diode mod but it did not work. It just game me codes on the O2 sensors. I
Update It seems what I have figured out does not relate to most non ROW cars. ---- Heya Came as a huge surprise for me. When I switched to winter tyre set which was not equipped with anything extraordinary I did assume that Ive left tyre pressure monitoring system in idle until summer. But it came as quite a surprise when one day TPMS indicator went on. Decided to check the pressure - and guess what
i guess now it makes sense.... i thought he was from Las Vegas ... now i realized hes in Europe.. so here in the U.S.of A we need the wheel sensor TPMSs on each of the Wheels and you dont .. we can now Close this one up now Mods
Dont worry I did the same thing at first. Then I picked up on little things like t y res and the after the amount that made me realize that LV could stand for Latvia. It was confirmed in a compleely different thread. ____________________________________________ Robert Ford Riverside Vw RobertfRiversidemetro.com 951-509-2125
Originally Posted by socalmudrunner The wheel speed sensor detects varying wheel speed affected by tire pressure and will throw a code to activate the tpms light...just had it happen in the snow due to the colder temperature affecting the molecules of air density. not on a US car. but there might be a way to convert to the ABS-based TPMS system. Ill look into it when things warm up a bit...
So I recently had to use Husky gas (ethanol crap gas pretty much) since there was no where to tank up and I didnt think ahead. Anyway I only fueled up about 20 ltrs of their 94 octane in my 2000 b5 v6 4motion. I then fueled up 40 ltrs of good shell gas once I got to a station. Anyway about 80 kms into the tank of gas my check engine light came on as well as emissions workshop. I got the codes checked
Hi guys I have tried to reply to an excellent thread written by UU8 DIY - Replacing Coolant Temp sensors
in the W8 Unfortunately for some reason it is locked and wont let me add to the information. UU8 put together an excellent step by step process on replacing the sensors
. I have just done the job and am wondering if he lubricated the o-rings as there was a mention that the rear one was very difficult
I have a special request for Help please if you know of or have had this happen to you can u give me a heads up.... I have a 98 passat 1.8t i also bought a used ABS module from a junkyard...this is wat happened.... before i replaced it the diagnostic computer from the dealer computer didnt even connect to the ABS system..after i put the module from the junkyard it did read but it said that the 2 abs
Hi everyone I have a base line 2010 b6 which comes without parking sensors
. I have a brand new genuine parking sensor box lined up part no 1K0 054 630 B but the seller is saying it would not fit the passat while it would fit other VW i.e. Golf VVI Golf plus Touran Scirocco Jetta & Tiguan. Does this make any sense Thanks in advance
So I need to get some tire pressure sensors
for my new rims. Where do you get them and how much Also is there anyone out there that has wrecked crashed or tore up there VW that would sell me theirs I think they are universial for VW like jettas will fit Passats and so on and so forth. Am I right in all this Thanks in advance for your input.
Ive been trying to chase down some engine issues and was playing around in advanced measuring blocks of my VAG-Com (OK VCDS....). Anyways there is a field of blocks that measures voltage on the knock sensors
. Cylinder 1 3 and 4 are rock solid and in lock step - the voltage increases with revs but is consistent. Cylinder 2 is all over the place - even at idle. So.... Im trying to find the stupid thing...
Originally Posted by ONE8T I think the sensor signal follows the firing sequence so it can tell which cylinder is which. truth. theres 2 knock sensors one for 1&2 and one for 3&4. the ecu takes info from the crank and cam position sensors to determine which cyl. Is where and splits up the signal from each knock sensor to give you 4 seperate readings. Id say go ahead and swap sensors if you want just
Hey- Its time for another W8 related write-up. These temp sensors
suck Anyway the other day I decided to make a go of swapping the buggers out- Im tired of hearing the electric cooling fans rumbling to life first thing in the morning immediately after I start the car. With this combined with a soft code of P3081 (Engine temp too low()) I decided to do the work. And Im quite sure the W8 community will
I know this keeps repeating but I am stumped. When I bought the b5.5 2004 1.8t it had the celcheck engine light on. After getting it vagd I replaced the crank speed sensor. The cel never came back and runs great except for the feeling of motor holding back (like its governed) and wont let me into 45th gear during a pedal to the floor. If i gradually throttle it shifts fine.. The check engine returned
this keeps repeating but I am stumped. When I bought the b5.5 2004 1.8t it had the celcheck engine light on. After getting it vagd I replaced the crank speed sensor. The cel never came back and runs great except for the feeling of motor holding back (like its governed) and wont let me into 45th gear during a pedal to the floor. ... The check engine returned within a day and the p0321 code popped up.
My CEL came on and im getting code p2181. from what ive read it has to do with the coolant system. Replacing the coolant temp sensor is cheap and easy so i figured id start there. A friend of mine works at meineke and said that their infromation says the CTS is underneath the car near the radiator driver side and is hooked right into the main cooling line. we replaced it with the new green sensor (after
what you replaced is the thermal fan switch which is probably not your problem but if you have a new one leave it there now. you need to replace the coolant temp sensor which is in the back of the engine head up top. both of these sensors sense coolant temperature. the one you replaced down below is used by the ECU to turn on the auxiliary (electric) radiator fan (what the coolant is still too hot
Ive looked through the forums for information on how to remove and replace rear O2 sensors
but didnt find much help other than these postings that were similar but not quite what Im looking for V6 Catalytic Converter And O2 Sensor Replacement - PassatB5 Post-Cat O2 sensor locations (2003 Passat V6 ATQ) I have a 2003 Passat V6 AWD 4motion thats throwing a consistent code that could be related to the
I did the spacers too as PZ suggests and that got rid of the 0421 and 0431 codes. Later I got a warm-up code fault for one of the rear sensors that was throwing the CEL. I got tired of that and went ahead and spliced in a new universal from under the car. Finally no more CEL.
I ran vag com and Im getting 2 fault codes one for the pre cat O2 sensor and one for the post cat sensor. The codes say something about intermittent or no signal. I have been runnig with these codes for a long time. First it was just the front 02 sensor and lately the back as well. Questions 1.Am I damaging something by not replacing the sensors
2. will bad o2 sensors
make my engine less fuel efficent
Ive been reading all over the place about the black coolant sensors
that go bad very early. I have not yet been able to locate my coolant sensor on my 2004 Passat wagon (GLS 4mo 1.8T 5M) but Im not sure if this is something I should look out for. So far I havent had any problems the car does idle high (1000 RPMs) at start up but idles down after a minute or 2. Im still well within my warranty period
So I had Module masters rebuild my ABS Module put it in still get the traction control light and ABS fault one beep only after driving for 2 min or so. With all new wheel speed sensors
installed no change in lights still solid all the time and now after a bit the ABS module flashes stop back to square one. Steps I took 1-replace front wheel speed sensors
with new when I did wheel bearings. no change
If the sensors are too close to the rings they usually do not cause the ABS to activate but they will make a soft metallic scraping sound. If they are too far away they will trigger the ABS at low speeds. The calipers should not be an issue unless they cause the brakes to lock up. It might be time to start checking the wiring from the ABS sensor back to the module.
reseated all the sensors cleaned everything very good and blew it all out with air. No debris anywhere. The boing boing sound still happens now between 10 and 5 mph only kind of a twang sound coming from the pump. Got the car up to 50 before the abstraction control light came back on. When I back out of anywhere after parking for a bit the lights go off. then they stay off until it comes up to speed about 50 mph then they come back on. Have to check vag com tonight and see WTF
its fairly constant. Im thinking its either coincidence or the cheap sensor somehow put more stress on the module and caused it to fail. My father got a bit overambitious and gouged at least one of the notches on the axle cage when we were digging out the old sensor (thats what it took) but it seemed to be working fine just after that so I dont think thats causing the issue. Im trying to free up
Model 98 PASSAT 1.8T Issue After a 30 mins drive where I stuck in heavy trafficcar was stationary and clutch was fully in no any other control applied but the RPM moves around itself in a range of 700-1400 at 700 it sounded engine is almost going to turn off. I pulled over and checked lubricant oil etc it was all normal. drove for another 15 km it still does it while running in low speed or parked
Check your coolant level and temperature sensors. I had a radiator leak on my old Mazda and I had to drain the coolant and swap the radiator and when I was heating up the engine with no coolant in the system so the thermostat would open all of a sudden the engine started revving up and down by itself as it got near the temperature when the thermostat opened. Scared the shit out of me but it stopped as soon as I got enough coolant into the system that all the temperature sensors were happy.
Ok Ill be getting a 85 Golf tonight I believe the engine is a 1.8 8 valve. I talked to a friend of mine about general maintenance and upkeep he seemed to think that it would be good to look into replacing the timing belt very soon. I was skeptical until he mentioned that the engine is an interference design so broken belt expensive repairs. He also mentioned replacing the water pump at the same time.
I replaced the high and low oil pressure sensors and that fixed my problem on my 92 Golf. Cost next to nothing for the sensors and were easy to install.
Hi there Im from England Surrey. I am new to the forum nice people with great advice I pick up my new B6 Passat 2.0TDI Sport with the following extras Leather Cruise Parking sensors
(rear) Electric Sunroof better wheels. I am looking forward to it i think the new passat is a great car i liked the B5 but this has the extra WOW factor. Is there anything i should look out for any nice features that people
I posted this last month but now its serious and I need some feedback... My car had the o2 sensor intermittently going out and causing horrible bouncy idle and rough driving (usually from a warm start). I believe its because the car was driving on 4 cylinders with misfires as a result of the o2 sensor not working Now its happening permanently. I step on the gas and the car jerks with the CEL blinking
Originally Posted by PZ They probably have been bad for a while but you did not get it scanned until it ran bad. Normally Id agree with you but I scanned a week before with Vag-com and no codes came up for the front o2 sensors. I swapped the coil and no codes... including from the o2 sensors. It was probably getting faulty readouts from the misfires and the computer thought they were malfunctioning
After installing my new big brake upgrade the hawk pads I used did not support the porsche pad wear sensors
so I didnt install them. Whats the best way to disable the check pads warning that pops up when the car is started For the time being I just clipped the harness off the old stock pads and shorted the two wires together soldered and put some heat shrink tubing over them then zip tied the whole
Just out of curiosity does my 1998 B5 1.8T have wear sensors
for the pads I know for a fact that my ABS module is shot but my Brake light is blinking as well. A quick glance at the pads through the spokes of the wheels and it looks like the pads have some decent life left... Does the ABS module cause the Brake light to blink as well
I just changed my brakes and discs today and my new set of front pads had sensors but I couldnt find anywhere to plug them in on my 1999 1.8T Passat. I just cut the cables and Im just glad I renewed the whole brake set up. The old discs and pads were well shot.
My neighbor has a Passat and it is losing coolant. We didnt see anything above but under the car the plastic cover was coated in either coolant or oil or both. I cant see where the source is. Everything looks relatively clean above but there are two sensors
which are covered in something. It is very grimy and shiny. Is there a good way to tell whether its oil or coolant I usually can tell because of the sheen. Could either of these sensors
be the source of a leak Heres the picture Thanks
Do you think that sensor is leaking Is it possible for that sensor to leak Because I looked up in that area and Im just not seeing anything leaking above it. I found these two pictures of the transmission in the ETKA. 321-77 torque converter valve body 5 speed automatic transmission for 4 wheel drive 927-60 switch and sender on gearbox solenoid valve printed circuit foil valve body Here are two exploded
I need to replace I think the rear abs sensors
. How do I determine if they are the female plug type or the male plug type. Just had the rear brakes and rotors replaced by a back yard mechanic. Everything seems to be working great but the ABS light and brake light stay on. He said he cleaned the exterior crud off the sensors
but they would probably have to be replaced. Im looking online for the parts
Quote Originally Posted by newomij How do I determine if they are the female plug type or the male plug type. Just unplug the connector and you should see if its a male or female connector. Generally its the reluctor ring that get corroded so the sensor doesnt pick up the gaps correctly. Happy New Year.
Ill admit upfront Ive had limited brake experience. I replaced the pads and rotors on my 99 Passat but there were no sensors
to worry about. Now I have an 03 V-6 Sedan FWD. How difficulteasy is it to determine which style pad is on my car Also I noticed that they sell pads with sensors
with ROUND connectors and ones with SQUARE connectors. I searched but found nothing on the sensor topic. Im hoping
rounded or D-shaped connectors. Check out the ECS tuning site they have pictures of the connector types. Others are correct the best way is to pull the wheel and have a look. The connector sits on a bracket near the caliper. To remove the plug from the bracket you need to deal with a small plastic piece on the plug with a pin that fits into a hole in the bracket. Using a small screwdriver lift up
Planning to buy a set of snow tires and wheels at Tire Rack. Are there any issues with using wheels WITHOUT tire pressure sensors
My impression is that this will not be an issue and that nothing special needs to be done. Am I correct Thanks.
Thanks. Tire Rack will add them for 200 to a tirewheel package. Not sure its worth the investment since they only have a service life of 4 years (I believe) and Ill probably end up disabling the TPMS anyhow.
Heres the story. 2000 Passat 4Mo 135000km. Mesh flex tube that connects the cat to the dp was leaking. Midas cut it out and replaced it. A week later I start getting Emmissions Workshop check engine. Funny it never went off when the leak was really bad... anyway Vag spits out Fault Code 16805 Warm up Catalyst Bank 1 Efficiency below threshold P0421-35-10 INTERMITTENT Fault Code 16815 Warm up Catalyst
2002 1.8T AWM Slightly rough idle after warm up. VCDS shows faultscodes for multiplerandom misfire and misfire cylinder 1. The misfire only happens at idle. Short video of VCDS while running below. Look at the RPM and count misfires.. So far Ive - Checked compression - all within 10% Swapped coils. (misfire stays on cyl 1) Ran NOID test on injector leads. Replaced spark plugs - PFR6Q Checked voltage
Update... Moving in the right direction... Replaced engine speed sensor with one from a scrap yard. It measured in the low 900 ohm range. As a side note after removing my old one. I re-checked resistance. Off the carit was measuring 980 (which was in the 400-1000 tolerance range). When I measured it at operating temp on the car it was appx 1180. Knowing the misfires became more frequent as the engine
Posting this for a friend of mine.. her 02 Passat has hardly any acceleration and is getting really poor gas mileage. like upwards of 10mpg by her calculations she took it into the ONLY VW dealership here in Baton Rouge LA (Southpoint VW) and even though she only had 40000 miles they told her she needed a 60000 mile tune up.. she ended up taking it to another local shop to have all the work done but
So after my window regulator clips broke on my 99 variant I decided to break down and go to the stealer for the part. Replaced the regulator with no problems but NOW IF the door card is installed and I lock and unlock the doors i cant open the drivers side door without smackingrocking the door and only when i hear the right click I can open it. The following are scenarios I HAVE tried IF the door card