I took a quick look at the car yesterday. The shifter in the car will not move its very hard when I tried to pull it down to neutral and seem to stuck in the 5th gear position. Im afraid to break it if I pull it too hardmany times. Ill check the shifter cables when I have more time. Since I cant even move the shifter in the car is there a manual release process I can perform to dis-engage it Any other things I should check before disconnecting the shift cables Thank You
I finally got the chance to check the shifter and the cables. I disconnected the 2 cables attached to the transmission and it shift fine in all direction. It looks like the problem is inside the transmission. Im not handy enough nor have the right gear to remove the transmission to look inside. Is there anything else I can check myself b4 bringing it to a professional Thanks again to all the help.
on spray a little bit of water on the belt around the A.C. compressor and see if it starts getting really noisy. If it does you can bank on it needing belt work. 2. Id suggest having a comperable garrage flush AND service the transmission so the filter and 90% of the fluid is changed. its expensive but not nearly as much as replacing the transmission. 3. Be careful of what it needs. this year camry
connector on each side of the starter solenoid. This will remove the solenoid from the circuit. If this engages the starter the solenoid has problems or is not getting power from the ignition circuit to engage the solenoid coil. If it is a solenoid the issue is most likely the electrical contacts (a common issue). These can be replaced typically with the starter still on the engine (these are toyota
There is a cable running between the gear selector inside the car and the trans shift lever on the trans sometimes the cable breaks. With engine off have someone shift gears while you watch if the lever is moving. The lever faces the radiator. You should be able to see it and the cable from standing outside the engine compartment. How is the fluid level If the cable is OK and the lever moves with engine
You have covered the usually causes. A few thoughts. By narrowing down the common electrical circuits for the components that dont work you may be able narrow down the problem area. The starter motor receives power directly from the battery via a large cable going to the starter solenoid attached to the stater motor. The solenoid is engaged by the ign key switch that activates a starter relay supplying
Look behind left side kick panel below the turn signal flasher. Might be marked ST. When the ign key is turned to start use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage at the small wire connected to the starter solenoid. If voltage OK the starter fuse and relay are working OK. If not the issue is someplace on this circuit. Keep in mind there is a parkneutral switch that prevents the starter relay from
If the items you state work the connection at the battery should be OK. You state engine main relay works how about brake and dome lights 4 or 6 cylinder engine Battery power for the chassis goes to a fuse box to split into 3 fused circuits (30 amp AM1 80A ALT 40A MAIN). These circuits exclude power for the starter motor itself which goes directly to the starter solenoid relay power contact by a large
The seat has one motor for every seat function such as seat slide back and forth seat up and down etc. The seat control switch and motors are all powered by the same electrical power source. If one motor is working OK power is getting to the switch box that controls all the seat motors. The control box has the switches you control the seat with one switch per motor. The motors have two power wires
Not up on Celica but. I would make sure the engine is not seized up. If you wonder about this take some tools and attempt to rotate the crank by hand with a socket and breaker bar. If OK use jumper cables to connect the neg battery terminal to the engine block and pos terminal to the large electrical terminal coming out of the stater motor. This will bypass all the starter circuits. Of course make
thanks the writeup was good however we didnt really follow it closely. The friend who was helping me has done clutch replacements before on other fwd vehicles. He was pretty much the lead on it and I was assisting him. While I removed both axleshafts he removed the starter shifter cables & removed the tranny to engine bolts. We then put in a jack underneath the engine to support it. We used another
If an automatic most likely you have internal problem such as the torque convertor one way clutch a clutch pack brake etc. You can try changing all of the fluid and making sure the trans fluid intake screen is clean. Make sure the shift cable and lever is not moving on the trans. If all OK then an internal issue.
Dont know. It could be the manual shift valve inside the trans is dirty or has a problem. This selects the initial gear. Or the torque convertor overdrive clutch not much you can do here without replacement. You can try changing all the fluid make sure the intake screen is clean and fluid level is correct. Make sure the shift cable is working OK it can break and that the shift lever is moving. The
Well dont take any of this as good yet. I got it all back together and the trans in the car and it moves but must give quite a bit of throttle. Im sure just the 20 feet I got it to move did quite a bit of damage to the new clutches. I did not set the shift cable that runs off the throttle per the procedure so thats going to be the next thing to try first. Tried pushing back into garage but it feels
Determine if the shift arm on the side of the trans is moving in sync with the shift selection console the cable can break. If OK a few causes could be a bad torque converter clutch or plugged oil intake screen. The pan can be removed to check the screen. Also completely change the fluid (about 6 quarts). Do about 4 drain and refills with a few miles in between to get most of the old oil out about 23rds is always in the converter.
This sounds a lot like what my car is going through right now (the grinding sound). I went to visit my cousin today (an hour away from me) car was fine when I got there. On the way home I ended up running on some very badly paved road like hitting 4 inch potholes going at at about 65Kmh (40Milesh). The three bumps were pretty hard like shocks bottoming out but not overly concerning bad. I did hit my
It appears you have a manual control system. The redblue is supposed to openclose the heater control valve. This valve controls coolant moving through the heater core. Unless the is moved fully in the blue direction the valve will be open to some degree. The valve is located in the engine compartment drivers side. You should see a couple of 1 inch diameter - hoses going into the firewall. One has
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This is just to throw it out there as I realize not many want to tackle it.....but Ive bought and flipped a lot of older camrys and Corrolas with transmissions that Im sure have never been serviced. I take off the gear selector cable and drop the valve body. Pull it apart and clean clean clean the passages and pistons. Im not sure if the Taco. has any ball switches but I doubt it. Most of the time
later I drove a Ford Taurus for a few years and hated the steering wheel lock when it would activate (that one IIRC would only lock when turning the wheel when off. Suddenly you couldnt turn it any more.) Just a couple days ago I had to move my car slightly in the parking garage. I just push the clutch roll it forward (can steer) and then put it in gearset the brake. Finally if your car pulls a toyota