Was the oil was there before or after the valve gasket change did the engine run OK after the belt change does engine have remote cam and crank sensors mounted under timing cover or are one or both in the distributor The codes indicate the computer is not detecting a signal for the sensor(s). Could be a short or open in the wiring from the sensor to the computer bad sensor(s) distributor issue. Guessing
Not sure if its the same as my 94 but here are the ones for mine. I know the cylinder s go up to 12 cylinders because this is for all toyotas at the time. This included the 12cyl toyota Century which was only availbe in Japan. P0010 A camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0011 A camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) P0012 A camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded
There is a plug behind the head that has nothing connected to it. I think thats the plug which would connect to the crank or camshaft sensor but since the head of the engine has been replaced with another head ... the head thats in there right now does not have a camshaft sensor plug or camshaft sensor itself. The car drives good and the engine runs fine. I just need to get rid of that plug and bypass
I would certainly test those two sensors before replacing especially their connectors for tight fit. A code on one may have triggered the code on the other. You will need an ohm meter. Because the engine seemed to recover a little when you let thegas off Id suspect the MAP more than the camshaft position sensor. Its odd that both would fail at the same time. You can access the test procedures from the manual link posted on this forum a little while back. httpwww.camrymanuals.com
Today I ran a hot lead from the battery to the fuel pump and it spun just fine. I attempted to start the car while it was spinning but it wouldnt start. The MAP sensor turned out to be within parameters so there is no problem there. One of the guys at the parts store said he thought it was in the distributor and that is why the camshaft position sensor faulted. Do you think there is anything to that
Pump spinning does not necessarily pressure. But if we assume you have fuel then spark is next. Check for spark to plugs. Remove a plug wire and ground it to the engine (with space) turn the engine overand see if you get a nice blue strong spark. Dont make the gap too big. Its odd the pump would stop spinning at the same time you lostthe camshaft postion sensor. Have you checked that yet This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on camryforums
First off I would like to thank you Pedro for all of your assistance. I lacked the knowledge to give you enough information to make a proper diagnosis. After I checked the camshaft position sensor and it checked out ok then I knew I had a bigger problem. So I finally had it towed to a local toyota shop (non dealer affiliated) and they diagnosed it was the timing belt had slipped. I watched as they
Sorry I was not clear. The tooth is not one that runs the belt. The broken tooth is one on the back (inside) of the gear that does not touch anything but I assume is what the crankshaft position sensor takes reading off of. Second sort of new question My new timing belt seems loose on both sides of the camshaft pulley and the tensioner pulley seems like it is over half -34 way up. I did not replace
Quote Originally Posted by mdiede Sorry I was not clear. The tooth is not one that runs the belt. The broken tooth is one on the back (inside) of the gear that does not touch anything but I assume is what the crankshaft position sensor takes reading off of. Second sort of new question My new timing belt seems loose on both sides of the camshaft pulley and the tensioner pulley seems like it is over
Check resistance of the sensor 835-1400 ohm cold 1060-1645 ohm hot. Check for open wires or shorts in the wiring between sensor and ECU. Wire colors BlackWhite and Blue. ECU terminals E8 16 and 17. ECU plug has 4 groups of terminals this group has 22. Numbers run right to left from top down No 1 is upper right No 22 lower left. The camshaft pulley has one lobe that triggers the sensor make sure it is not damaged.
Fuel Pressure regulator is located inside fuel tank... tomorrow I will take a look to EGR valve and CAM Shaft position sensor..... I am running out of clue now if it doesnt start tomorrow I will towed the car to mechanics. I know that when you take to garage it may be turn out very simple stuff... and you have to pay very dearly as you taking a dead car to garage...no choice. For the fuel injector
I believe my coil didnt have the resistance it should have had but what led me to testing it was that I did a spark test by unplugging a wire and connecting it to a spark testing tool and saw that I had none. pedro. if the camry doesnt have either cam or crank sensors then how does the computer determine when to pulse the injectors. Im guessing the 95 has a distributor so it wouldnt need it for the
turboxb9s the 5S-FE non-California has two signal rotors inside the distributor. One has four lobes the other has one lobe. So I would guess that the one lobe rotor is for TDC while the four lobe is for firing of each cylinder through the ECM and ignitor. Someone with indepth knowledge of this could clarify.There is no separate camcrank positon sensor as is the case on the distributorless V6 engines.
Right on Joey. I checked for spark and it was there so I dove back in the timing area and it was not TDC when the cam and crankshaft were lined up in their marks. I removed the belt and turned the camshaft clockwise to the correct position then put the timing belt back on. I hooked up the front ground strap plugged the rear ground strap back up connected the alternator plug and wire and attempted to
After 1995ish toyota started modifying the ign system system. One modification was to start moving the cam and crankshaft ign timing pickup sensors from inside the dist housing to the area where the crank and camshaft pulleys are. Determine if the 1996 has a cam or crankshaft electrical sensor pickup. If so the distributor location would now be fixed.
In all honesty you need to start with the cheapest easiest method and then move from there I would start with cleaning your throttle body get a little throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush and clean it out it will crank for a little bit after you finish and take a minute for the idle to settle down but dont worry and even if this isnt the problem it is always good to do Now also take a look at your
I only have info for 1995 V6. Im assuming you have 6 coils. Are you getting any codes I have not seen any info to test igniter just to test everything else first then if all ok then try another igniter. The igniter is just a switch that is controlled by the ECM through a 5v input signal when switched the igniter sends battery current to the primary of the coil then cuts that primary current off so
This engine ign system has only one coil The dist cap has 6 wires plus the coil wire What years does the Chilton Book cover What specific engine model does the car have I dont think this engine has a remote crank or camshaft sensor. Have you checked for spark by removing the coil wire at the dist cap and holding it close to a ground point on the chassis. If no spark check for 12V DC power at the positive
This engine ign system has only one coil --Yes only one coil The dist cap has 6 wires plus the coil wire --Yes. What years does the Chilton Book cover --1983-1996 What specific engine model does the car have --Not sure where can I find that It is a 3.0L V6 with 3000 stamped on top of the intake manifold and PTY3.0V 5ffVO on the sticker under the original hood (hood has been replaced original is behind
I tested the MAF ECT for EFI sensor camshaft Position sensor Power coming to the igniter power at the IGT terminal at the ECU front injectors. All of these have the resistance in spec and voltage at the connectors. Yes the engine will die if I dont hold the rpms at 2000-2200. It runs a little rough and I can smell gas. I checked for spark a the cylinder 2 coil with a screwdriver and there was a blue
I think youll have to get the tach working first as that seems to be the problem. Im not sure where the tach picks upits signal from maybe the camshaft position sensor. Download the online manual and research where the tach gets its signal from and fix that first. You may find the trans works when that is fixed.