hours trouble-shooting and trying to diagnose problems (like I did) If you buy the D-jet take the 3 hours to read the D-jet thread in the encyclopedia or just spend hundreds of dollars and hundreds of hours burning 100 dollar bills while poking yourself in the eye with a sharp object to achieve the same result that all being said the article from Road and Track Road and Track Article 1994 mercedes
I think only 1 person out of 100 considered it acceptable to put an SLR nose on the new SLK. Especially the older pics with the circular headlights the look of the SLK was truly butchered. However as time went on and real pics of the new SLK began to escape the clutches of Merc more people warmed up to the look of the car. Currently most people who have seen the car in person think that overall mercedes
My intent was to make something that would fit on a (cheap HF) stand and possibly be modifiable to other transmissions. This was the first structural thing Ive welded and its probably over-engineered. I dont know how good my welding is (it occasionally LOOKS ugly) and I would rather have it too strong than too weak. I dont have a suitable workbench for this kind of work either. On the cost of the parts..this
I started rebuilding a 722.315 for my wifes 300D 3 years ago. Her car had 220k miles on it at the time. It was shifting well but always leaked from the TC or front pump. I assembled a transmission out of two cores someone had given me plus a few other parts ( and the seal kit and clutches I got off ebay cheaply). I was working to get it done before she went to Europe and I would then have 2 weeks to
Quote ian-kent - 132005 205 AM The 360 spider may have held its value quite well and not devalued as much as a SL. But a Cambelt service is 5-6000 the clutch is 3000 the standard service is around 2500. So work it out over 3 years - 2x clutch60002xservice50001xcambelt service4000-50003xsets of tyres3000new exhaust3000 Total22000 - around 19000 more than a SL and thats only allowing for 6000 miles a
Quote Mr_Ferrari - 1242005 952 PM Quote ian-kent - 132005 205 AM The 360 spider may have held its value quite well and not devalued as much as a SL. But a Cambelt service is 5-6000 the clutch is 3000 the standard service is around 2500. So work it out over 3 years - 2x clutch60002xservice50001xcambelt service4000-50003xsets of tyres3000new exhaust3000 Total22000 - around 19000 more than a SL and thats
The temp your running at is not alarming and all SLs Ive driven run the oil pressure below pegged when hot and below 1000 RPM. The fact that your Aux fan is coming on in 75 ambient leads me to believe your primary fan is not doing its job. I understand the viscous clutches can be serviced but I never did it myself. Do a search on how to check and service the clutch.
Ok that is good to hear. I am very close to going for an SL63. I had an SLS and found the transmission to be a source of considerable frustration did not engage in a predictable drivable manner at low sppeds. On the highway very fun but I am around town more than on the open roads. Thinking an SL with serious power is the better game plan. I have driven sticks my whole life and always liked rowing
Then you will be disappointed in the manual mode shifting of the paddles. They are so slow compared to PorscheMCClaren and other cars I have driven that I rarely use them at all. they are slower than True manual Shifting. I am not exaggerating. Apparently this is a problem that can be SOMEWHAT alleviated by getting an aftermarket ECU software upgrade. I am very disappointed in this particular problem.
of the planet gears or k2 bearing is grinding away- needle bearings in the pan-by now the whine sound is in some of the gears and the transmission is hours away from not working at all... You have the old filter Dissect it... A word to the wise... ALWAYS dissect your old Tranny filter on the 722.6 transmission...It will say a lot about the future(and the past).. Take a look at this... httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsw210...ink-about.html
Lynn Thank you for putting up the links.They are well done but do lack some info... Sadly mercedes has made some real duds with the 722.6 and 722.9. Both transmissions share some of the front-end components that plague both of these transmissions. Depending on model of vehicle one has the failures will come up rapidly no mater how often the fluid is changed or the type of fluid is used. Failures K2
Nope. Fluid coupling is significantly different. I always imagine it as a slippery clutch at low rpm where torque converter actually converts rpms lost by slipping into inceeased torque. Most 4speed boxes just got one extra gear at the beginning or if youlike it three speed box is sort of missing first gear. More difference was in diff. For comparison 280auto and four speed manual have identical ratios. Five speed has overdriven fifth but other ratios are different. Wikipedia stuff on FC and TC clutches is down to earth and understandable by human beings. Sent from my NASA space shuttle portable phone using NASA benzworld chargeable application you cannot afford
Lets see new body shellv-shaped nose sectionheadlights fendersintegrated gills larger side mirrorsdual powerdome hood that is longersingle bar grillenew version of the benz 7G-Tronic trans with a wet clutch anf 4 internal clutchesairscarf a few new Gizmos in COMAND.A new price. It looks like another winner ...FOR SALE SL600 2006 14823 miles... mpelchencomcast.net
Quote Originally Posted by mpelchen Lets see new body shellv-shaped nose sectionheadlights fendersintegrated gills larger side mirrorsdual powerdome hood that is longersingle bar grillenew version of the benz 7G-Tronic trans with a wet clutch anf 4 internal clutchesairscarf a few new Gizmos in COMAND.A new price. It looks like another winner ...FOR SALE SL600 2006 14823 miles... mpelchencomcast.net Youre joking right
replaced. The car has been aligned to spec. But I keep having to make corrections to keep it going straight. I have adjusted the box several times (counter clockwise) and it does not seem to make any difference. Is it possible to back the adjuster out so far that it misses the sweet spot and results in looseness again Any ideas as to the culprit Thanks in advance. Norm PS This is my 11th Diesel benz
My Daughter Works as a manager for Advanced auto Ill have Her to look at a diagram on Her work computer catalog blow-ups She might be able to give us a more defined composite of the parts in relationship to their location and how they are affixed to the shaft (in what order) and then we might be able to evaluate the complexity of removal. The clutches are likely somewhere around 100 but hopefully not much more though sometimes the clutches are more than the compressors.
Quote Originally Posted by Gohot My Daughter Works as a manager for Advanced auto Ill have Her to look at a diagram on Her work computer catalog blow-ups She might be able to give us a more defined composite of the parts in relationship to their location and how they are affixed to the shaft (in what order) and then we might be able to evaluate the complexity of removal. The clutches are likely somewhere
The test ajtcsx points do determines if the differential is operating as an open differential or one which provides a counter force to drive the alternate wheel or not. As was pointed out with the car raised so both rear wheels are off the ground if you turn one wheel by hand the direction the opposite wheel turns will tell you what you need to know. If the opposite wheel turns in the SAME direction
the 560SL is an LSD. When new it will be hard to rotate the rear wheels with the car in park. But as the clutches wear they will only function under load. To test do a break stand and release the breaks. Make sure both wheels are spinning in the stretch mark left.
Quote Originally Posted by roncallo the 560SL is an LSD. When new it will be hard to rotate the rear wheels with the car in park. But as the clutches wear they will only function under load. To test do a break stand and release the breaks. Make sure both wheels are spinning in the stretch mark left. What are you talking about
Quote Originally Posted by docsaab Does anyone know if the LSD from a 500SEC will fit directly into a 450SL 78 diff case and ring gear without modification One is available but I think with my lack of knowledge on parts particulars we dont yet know if the LSD will be a straight swap from case to case and ring gear to ring gear. Anyone able to help us out it would be greatly appreciated. Just by a Quaife
Quote Originally Posted by krigsmakten Just by a Quaife unit instead - they have one that works for our cars. The Quaife unit is a different design - no clutches - no wear. Just be prepared to pay BIG dollars to buy one. Quote Originally Posted by krigsmakten The factory versions are no good - they might have worked when new but anything used will have stopped working long ago. The clutches wear out.
Thought I would wade in on this topic because it is something one of the few things I know something about. The terminology Limited Slip in the context of your garden variety differential has very little to do with the slippage of the axles wheeltire combo on the pavement. The term refers to the internal workings of the differential itself and modulated control of its designed in capability to allow
I havent timed it but my warm up routine goes like this. From a cold start the air pump comes on until coolant temp gets into the 40s I think 45C is the spec when the pump shuts off and the thermo-switch opens the vac lines. This may be about 2.5 minutes. At 65C the ECU takes over engine management I can hear it hum and the rpm begins searching a little. At 80-85C the fan clutches out and the shifts
That is a piece of the retaining ring on one of the two clutch packs. The rings are 3.5-4 in diameter and spring against the inside of the drum to keep the steels and clutches together. The rest may pop off or break- or not. Take it to some transmission shops and get some (unbiased) opinions.
Dont rely on US 280SECE being like for like. Your Euro should have higher compression so uses different plugs has different cams (originally) no smog pump etc etc. Your best option is to refer to the EPC to be 100% sure. Even innocuous things like fan-clutches water-pumps etc were different between some Euro and US engines.
As far as I know the iron block 450 transmissions will work so a newer one will fit. All of them are 3 speeds though and therefore somewhat lacking in the performance department. You could do a 4 speed conversion and I think that that would be easier in Europe as the 350 sold with a 4 speed there while here in the good old US we only got the 450 with the 3 speed auto. Now with that being said there
Quote Originally Posted by Weather Man If you live in a warm place as I do you certainly need a good cooling system. (Please fill out your profile.) Overheating while idling This points in a different direction however like your fan clutch maybe. You also have a secondary electric fan that ought to come on. Note that if you see a few drops of coolant under the front after having sat for a day or two
The fan clutches out after he engine warms up. It will turn with the engine until the indicated temperature gets to about 80C then it loosens to where its max speed is (something like) 1800 rpm. From what you write it sounds like yours is okay. When it fails the fan stays with the engine-speed and it tends to roar as you go through the gears. Do you have air conditioning If so you surely have an electric
John thats good info about the shift delay but that can be done relatively easily on the SM4. The problem I can see is that IF the factory use 2x 6 cyl ECUs (much like m120 used 2xm104 units) then the setup is complicated. Also the CANbus is going to be a problem for a whole host of other issues like instrumentation abs yaw control etc - which are all tied into the harness. probably going to need a
its really not THAT bad. Just a bunch of gears seals pumps clutches bearings. How the bloody thing really works I still dont know.... I have been nagging my wife for 12 years to learn how to drive a stick but she refuses. I guess to her the fact that the auto transmission is just another black box like the engine brakes differential etc doesnt bother her. But it bothers me even though I rebuilt a couple of them
My 180K mile car 380 is MUCH less tight in this area than my 108K mile (and very pampered through its life) 560. I blame this on many factors which I intend to address this summer and fall 1. Bad vacuum from the engineold and probably out of adjustment modulator which affects shift smoothness. 2. Failing transmission (clutches very thin at 180K mi even on a 380 front pump seals iffy piston seals 28
Thanks for the reply. The starting issue is definitely fuel. If you pour some raw gas into the manifold itll start right up and stay running. I heard through various internet posts that it can be a number of things all of which had been replaced minus the accumulator. I suspect the transmission is in need of being professionally looked at. The car only has 57000 miles on it. The filter and trans fluid
If it slips it is torque convertor related. When I do not drive my car for few months it may take a few seconds for it to build pressure... and clutches in. I am not worried as it is ok when normally used. Replace ATF fluidfilter in box as well as in torque convertor (TC). ATF in TC may be tricky to replace. Must follow manual to the last bit.
Have been reading up a bit on automatic transmissions. See link in last post. The gears in an automatic consists of 2 planet gears in series. A planet gear consists of a sun in center a ring of planets held in place by a planet ring and an outer ring. The ratio of the gear depends on where the power is connected to and taken out in addition locking one of the three elements changes the ratio. clutches
The Sternzeit site had an interesting article in German for diagnostics the following info could be useful First gear Brakeband 2 activated Second gear Brakebands 1 and 2 activated Third gear Brakeband 2 and Clutch 1 activated Fourth gear clutches 1 and 2 activated In my case shifting up from 2nd to third failed this could be because Clutch 1did not engage or the governor (speed sensor) did not provide
My understanding were those unnamed bavarian cars are related those 7 series with 6 speeds are rarer than hens teeth. You do have options though. The mid 80s series 5 and 6 used the getrag that splits (do not have the number off of the top of my head buti believe it is a 365 it is the same one that was used by AMG for the 107s conversion) so you would only need that and have a collar made to fit your
Quote Originally Posted by smolina1000 My understanding were those unnamed bavarian cars are related those 7 series with 6 speeds are rarer than hens teeth. You do have options though. The mid 80s series 5 and 6 used the getrag that splits (do not have the number off of the top of my head buti believe it is a 365 it is the same one that was used by AMG for the 107s conversion) so you would only need
Quote Originally Posted by RadioTek Anyone who is parting out have a fan clutch they would be willing to part with for a reasonable sum Im getting some overheating problems and this is about the last thing left. If its too much trouble for anyone to part with Ill just see what is possible with an Electric replacement. If anyone has suggestions or thoughts on that option please feel free to add your
Hey there Nobby My unit is not like that. It does not have clutches or teeth on the wheel but has a metal ribbed wheel that presses against the nylon cord (smooth variety I think) and a metal idler marked France to hold the cord against the ribbed wheel on take up. The ribbed wheel is driven by a separate toothed nylon gear underneath that interfaces a metal worm drive shaft which is directly driven
I would like to thank all for the very helpful comments.. Quote Originally Posted by okbarnett I just jack the car and drain from the drain plugs. I let the car down while it is draining to get the oil to the bottom of the pan. I wouldnt use ramps. It gets the engine at too much angle to drain the bottom of the pan. The have an Auto Hobby Shop where I work so I can rent a rack for like 4 hour and they
Quote Originally Posted by jmf003 I cant recall the source for the attached chart but it states that the SL55 and SL600 have different transmissions with the SL600s having a higher torque rating. Hope that helps.... I dont think that is the case. I reckon they are the same units but with uprated clutches.
Quote Originally Posted by gumsie I dont think that is the case. I reckon they are the same units but with uprated clutches. I think so too. Substantially similar but enough differences for them to have different part numbers and different torque ratings.
The air pump only operates for a few seconds on startup then de-clutches. There are also valves at the inlet and outlet. For whatever reason MB recommends changing them whenever you detach the pump. Since your aural emissions coincide with that a good place to start. So will there be pickled eggs in Twilingate
I had the LSD rebuilt in my 500SLC. The clutches are available from the Classic Center. Have the unit rebuilt by an experienced diff. shop. I doubt they will have too much trouble with it. It cost me around 1500 USD I think - but I had the diff out of the car already so your cost will include that labor as well.