in EGv107 but the concern is what you do while moving from one cam sprocket to the next. Tight wire to the hood will be very helpful for this part IMO. Quote Originally Posted by reno4u2 I have wondered if soaking the chaintensioner in oil beforehand is really necessary. Cant hurt but I somehow dont see dealersindys doing it. Wouldnt be the first time Im wrong however...lol All I know is that mercedesMechanic
were to replace the gears I think I would bite the bullet and go with MB but I would make double damn sure they needed it. Something about a 20 gear bothers me. Especially if it fails and............you know the rest. Rons prices are very reasonable and you can talk to him for further info... I have no idea who makes the gears camshaft- 39.00 Chain- 109.00 Guide Kit- 85.00 Crankshaft Gear- 85.00 mercedes
Quote Originally Posted by Ears Rons prices are very reasonable camshaft- 39.00 Chain- 109.00 Guide Kit- 85.00 Crankshaft Gear- 85.00 I have never found his prices at all reasonable. Too high. Depending upon the gear manufacturer other sites beat his hands down. His may also be SWAG for all we know. The dizzy drive gear is around 400.00from MB and other sources.
Lemfoerder Febi Meyle Whos best - PeachParts mercedes ShopForum
Quote Originally Posted by isthisdave . Google rocks dude. Cool will I need one if Im replacing the camshaft
Quote Originally Posted by styler66 Hi Parked my SL on a VERY steep incline yesterday nose pointing downwards then from one second to the other all hell broke lose and the mother of all smoke screens flowed from the exhaust So what happens when its back on level ground
What if the GTS 55 is factory casting number or some other for genuine mercedes camshafts Until we know if that is stamped on factory camshafts we cant know the answer to your earlier question. The answer to one question will help find the answer to the other. My 117.960 has its original camshafts.
When you check to see what numbers are stamped on the end of the camshaft then see if you can match them to the attached table.
Quote Originally Posted by Fotografa When you check to see what numbers are stamped on the end of the camshaft then see if you can match them to the attached table. Back side of the cams right Check with a mirror Ive got one and should have checked by now. Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Quote Originally Posted by ChiefRider Sorry but the term hot cams is just foreign to ANY SL. I recall reading something about Pearsons 560sl having cams hotter than AMG installed. So I figured it was OK to use that term even if I didnt know what it meant. Of course your post made me read up a tiny bit about camshafts on Wikipedia. I now see that grinding stock cams would only be likely to decrease
Yep I was wrong. Should have said right side not just passenger side. OK so its new camshaft time. what supplier can I trust besides the dealer and how deep do I go to fix the problem.
Quote Originally Posted by billsfan60 OK so its new camshaft time. Probably....but you should also focus on the WHY and attend to that too. Anything wrong with a good used (compatible) cam
I guess the visions of dollar signs dancing in my head have destroyed my communication skills. The original intent was first to get to the source of the issue then determine how to both correct the problem and also prevent a repeat. This is my first go-round with a mercedes benz roadster and the lack of print shop manuals from the usual sources like Haynes scares the hell out of me. A lifetime of buying
Quote Originally Posted by billsfan60 This is my first go-round with a mercedes benz roadster and the lack of print shop manuals from the usual sources like Haynes scares the hell out of me. Well Haynes would not be your friend in this case. I have a Haynes and Chilton as a very light duty resource and for some pics etc. But the applicable MB manuals are what you want. I found my hard copies on Ebay
This sounds like a fun topic and I hope to learn something. I wonder if the w116 crowd has investigated similar stuff. Whats the goal I would think that it cant be necessity since there are plenty of engines of both types available. Have you checked the part numbers in the ECP to verify what interchanges I think the heads of a 350 d-jet are interchangeable with that of a d-jet 450. The heads are apparently
There is a thread on the 126 forum where a guy with a lot of expertise is selling a mechanical camshaft that is copied from an AMG profile. Lots of info on this subject there. They do mention that too wild of a cam will probably not get along with the MB air metering system (not a surprise). But no cam that is AFAIK available on the market is too wild. I definitely dont think that you can mix hydraulic
Quote Originally Posted by strife2 There is a thread on the 126 forum where a guy with a lot of expertise is selling a mechanical camshaft that is copied from an AMG profile. Lots of info on this subject there. They do mention that too wild of a cam will probably not get along with the MB air metering system (not a surprise). But no cam that is AFAIK available on the market is too wild. I definitely
Ive read through 48hps thread discussing the AMG grinds that hes been able to copy and its a very interesting read. It confirms that the swap from a hydraulic lifter to a solid mechanical lifter is possible and that you can run a wilder cam. This is something that AMG was doing years ago to the 5.0. This modification today is generally done to either the 5.0 or 5.6 which although uses different cylinder
Sorry I am not talking about the camshaft position sensor. I am talking about the camshaft adjuster magnet my SL320 has one in the front of the engine. I guess SL500 might have 2. My orginial post title was changed pls help to change back to camshaft adjuster magnet. Thanks.
Quote Originally Posted by kevin2010 great stuff thanks. Yes I had the engine wiring harness problems before but it had already sorted out. The reason why I think that there is something wrong with the magnet is because I dont feel any change in driving performance no matter I connect it or not. Also the connector to it has 14V all the time (idling or rpm above 3500). Thanks. I believe this works with
Quote Originally Posted by kevin2010 how can I check if the camshaft adjuster is working fine Also according to the document provided by lynns the timing should be in retarded from 0 to 2000 rpm and the solenoid should has no voltage to it but my has 14V all the time. I just looked at it again and yes there is a problem with the voltage thing to check the camshaft adjuster would mean removing the timing
I found out that I have 2 exactly same connectors in the harness which can be connected to the camshaft servo magnet. Rightnow the one with 12-14V all the time is connecting to the magnet and another one with no voltage is left out connecting nothing. Also can I just removing those screws and take the camshaft servo magnet out for inspecting the camshaft adjuster and the magnet Will I need any gasket or some sort to reinstall it back Thanks.
Quote Originally Posted by Oregon Bob In researching timing chain issues Ive been told to replace the camshaft oilers. Seeing them in on-line catalogs they just look like aluminum tubes. Heres my questions Are they just aluminum tubes If so why do they cost 100 each (I know its an MB but thats about the most expensive part on the job) Do I need one or two How exactly do aluminum tubes wear out Any
Its not the tubes that are the problem unless someone bent them while doing a valve adjustment. The problem is the cheap crummy plastic fittings that attach the tubes to the camshaft towers. Alot of M117 cams have gone to an early grave because these fittings come loose and cause oil starvation. Never reuse the plastic fittings and make sure each one is fully but lightly driven into place. The tubes
Quote Originally Posted by electroshock Its not the tubes that are the problem unless someone bent them while doing a valve adjustment. The problem is the cheap crummy plastic fittings that attach the tubes to the camshaft towers. Alot of M117 cams have gone to an early grave because these fittings come loose and cause oil starvation. Never reuse the plastic fittings and make sure each one is fully
Good stuff to know I just ordered a two sets of the plastic cam oiler fittings and will be cleaning the oiling tube when they go in. Reminds me of my E420 which developed a nasty tapping sound which turned out to be from a failed camshaft oiler. Lucky for me at 99.5K miles the car was still barely within MBZs 100K mile extended warranty so the dealer in Oakland CA (very) begrudgingly fixed it for free.
Hi thanks for your explanation Just checked the prices of the magnets again. 20 at mercedes Parts - Get mercedes Parts at Wholesale Prices or 36 at the MB dealership. Thinking about just replacing all 4 magnets myself. The dealer might give me a discount on replacing the one that brings up the error but will probably not replace the other 3 for free then. Anybody here having some experience in replacing
Quote Originally Posted by casselmanzim hi all i have a 300sl 1989 which has done 103000 ks. if the car is left standing for a few days without starting hen i do start it there is a slight tapping from the camshaft area.it only lasts for 2-3 seconds.used daily this does not occur. does anyone have any ideas i live in zimbabwe and there are not many places to ask for advice. thanks for your assistance