Quote Originally Posted by RaceDiagnostics Luckily I was only 100 meters from home yesterday when there was an almighty screech from the car there had been no forewarning of this at all. No tell tail squeak on start up etc. This morning I had a look feeling all the belts gave no clue to the source so I decided to strip back the belts one by one till I could eliminate the offender. The first one off
They arent expensive and its just the pulley and bearing that you need - pretty cheap and pretty easy to replace. You lucked out though. When mine went I was on my way back from JPL in Pasadena and this god-awful noise started coming from the engine compartment. I pulled off and found the pulley bearings were gone. Not shot not seized they were gone. The whole inner section of the pulley had disintegrated
Quote Originally Posted by nobby Really Outcome from failure differs slightly. One design group was sinister. I dont know bud. Dropping a belt and pulley into this at 5000 rpm has definite possibilities all its own. Good road
Quote Originally Posted by GlueckAuf I dont know bud. Dropping a belt and pulley into this at 5000 rpm has definite possibilities all its own. Theres not quite enough room for the pulley to clear the space between the cooling fan and the end of the spindle. So what happens instead is the pulley leans forward and grinds against the trailing edge of each fan blade. As you can imagine thats quite the acoustic alarm system.
Quote Originally Posted by Fotografa Others have said that the extra .5mm in width doesnt make a diiference. Their call on their car. I paid double to get genuine mercedes belts in the correct width. Yes the mercedes belts are made by Conti with Conti branding on them but they are the correct width. Your call. Can you be more elaborate My understanding is that width matters if the width of the belt
These belts were listed as size for 450SE but thats same. belts sizes you will look up from Merc manual. As you will not be able to find 9.5x any more next size up is 11mm and youll have to allow for extra length to compensate. pulleys can take 11mm I used 11x1005 for alternator and two 11x1195 for servo. IMO by quality Bosch is at least equal to Continental Edit Shanes deal as always is unbeatable
Quote Originally Posted by Djenka018 These belts were listed as size for 450SE but thats same. belts sizes you will look up from Merc manual. As you will not be able to find 9.5x any more next size up is 11mm and youll have to allow for extra length to compensate. pulleys can take 11mm I used 11x1005 for alternator and two 11x1195 for servo. IMO by quality Bosch is at least equal to Continental Edit Shanes deal as always is unbeatable Awww shucks. Thanks mate. My genuine mercedes belts are definitely 9.5. Mind you not sure what is actually available here in oz...
Quote Originally Posted by woernert Is there any reason I cant replace these myself Is there anything I need to know beforehand like special tricks tips etc For example does anything have to be loosened & re-tensioned or can the new belts just be stretched pried onto the pulleys Also it looks like you have to remove the ones in front in order to change rearmost belt(s). Yes no I wouldnt try prying
Quote Originally Posted by woernert One of my belts began squealing the other night on my 1973 450 SLC. Upon closer inspection it looks like they could all use replacement. Is there any reason I cant replace these myself Is there anything I need to know beforehand like special tricks tips etc For example does anything have to be loosened & re-tensioned or can the new belts just be stretched pried
I have never had one break. But they do wear out. Its one of the easiest DIY projects on this car. Just put a wrench on the tension bolt and it slips on real easy. While you have it off. I would suggest looking at the dual pulley to the left of the Supercharger. That dual pully is a problem point for the AMG. The inside Plastic pulley has a bad habit of the bearing failing. The bummer is that Dual
Quote Originally Posted by Stashman94 I meant I need to find the tensioners to remove the belts to the ac compressor and air pump. I have the new belts for it already I just cant figure out how to get the ones on it off sorry. I cut mine off but obviously thats the easy bit There is a bolt which tightens the arm attached to the freepulley on the AC belt .It will be on VERY tight. You will see a flat
It is possible to cheat a bit on the AC belt because loosening the arm is VERY difficult. If the new belt is really exactly the correct length its possible to loosen the pulley itself (as though you were going to change it out with its integral bearing) remove the old belt and install the new one and then replace the pulley. HOWEVER the screw holding the pulley on is a special MB part and it is very important that you not round the hex in the screw or your life will be miserable.
Quote Originally Posted by tdsilk Thanks to all Ordered Contitech from Autohausz. Also install instructions seem to be pretty clear. TD The Contitech should be fine. That is likely what OE are. It was some other makes that for my car had different profiles and did not sit properly on the pulleys causing them the belts to be noisy and slip.
Quote Originally Posted by tdsilk I tried measuring the new belts with the old and the new ones seem to be a hair shorter. The old ones are worn....it makes perfect sense that the new ones seem shorter. Get the belt onto one pulley fully and started on the second pulley. Then rotate the second pulley and it should fall on.
Quote Originally Posted by strife2 You take the ones in front of them off. No way around it but generally I replace them preventatively all at once so no biggie. There is a narrow gap between the bottom of the water pump pulley and the crank pulley and that is the question how do I get the ps belts off through that narrow gap between the pulleys
The pulley puller part number W108589023300 is very pricey but less than a new pulley. There are aftermarket pullers for much less cost but found the collar is too thick for the narrow groove of the 107 pulley. You might take the pump to a local MB garage and ask them to remove it for you just for a drink. A two leg puller will certainly break the rims of the belt grooves of the pulley. Hope it helps.
There is an idler pulley that keeps tension on the belt. I dont have a pic of the assembly. The compressor pulley turns all the time. Only when the clutch is engaged does the center of the front of the compressor spin.
Quote Originally Posted by Aussiemerc Im about to replace all the belts and the manual gives good details of how each belt individually comes offon. My question is - do the the air pump and the compressor belts have to be off before you can get the others on Or am I missing something obvious as usual. I have no idea what your set up looks like.....but.... It should be self evident once you start.
I have to admit that even though I can use a normal wrench to tighten my idler pulley arm I have no idea what I am doing when setting the tension on my AC belt. It seems that you must somehow hold the arm in a position that holds the belt tight and tighten the bolt at the same time. Thats tricky especially if you have the idler arm flopped over to the driver side so tightening the bolt will naturally
Quote Originally Posted by Fonzi It seems that you must somehow hold the arm in a position that holds the belt tight and tighten the bolt at the same time. On the 560sl the end of the idler arm mounting bracket (where the pulley bolts into) has two flats machined in. A 78 wrench will fit it. Allows you to put tension on the belt with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other. Trying to get a good pic...
Sorry - my car is a 1973 450 SLC and I live in central Indiana. I realize that replacing a belt is not a big deal to many on this forum - and really isnt for me either if I had the motivation and time to dig into it myself - but one of my concerns is that I order install the correct belts. This car is a very early 73 and I believe that some common parts for this car do not even have the same part
. Quote For what its worth my mechanic said a 4-mile drive from a stone cold engine start probably would not hurt the engine plus the water pump belt is a dual design and there is still one remaining belt driving the pump. The other belt on the dual pulley is slipping burning badly and making a hell of a noise so I was just going to cut it off to drive it into the shop. A single belt at correct tension
Quote Originally Posted by JC201 I am replacing all of my belts (over 30 years old) and the idler pulley that is making noise. Do I have to remove the radiator to get to the pulley. It looks like I have to but maybe there are some tricks you experts have so I wouldnt have to do that. I have searched the threads on this forum and so far have not found an answer. Are there any special tools that I need.
Thanks I figured it out. I did as you suggested took the idler bracket off then removed the pulley. There was a bushing stuck in the pulley bearing that had to be removed. I took a socket that fit in the bolt hole but not the bushing and one mild rap with a hammer removed it. Reinstalling was a piece of cake. I left the AC belt off till I can decide howwhen to replace the compressor. I buttoned the
. Back in the day parts store would stock matched sets for dual belt pulley applications. Not so much anymore everybodys trimmed on hand stock to the bone. There are lot numbers on the belts that can be matched as best as possible IF they have more than a belt or two in stock. Id stick with OE from the dealer or AHAZ etc. not the Gates or Dayco stuff from NAPA etc.
No you are not missing anything. I have only driven my 560 once in the rain on a 400 mile round trip. No squealing. You could try tensioning all the belts and check the idler pulley on the AC belt.
Quote Originally Posted by rowdie No you are not missing anything. I have only driven my 560 once in the rain on a 400 mile round trip. No squealing. You could try tensioning all the belts and check the idler pulley on the AC belt. Ok thanks Ill get in there and see what I find..
Ali I think that the less expensive way is to replace the accessory belt tensioner pulley roller. Autohaaz.com has the part look at 119 2000 370 oem 36.74 regards aam.
Quote Originally Posted by Ali Denton-Cardew Gentlemen Has anybody opened and repaired one Part number A119 200 02 70 applies. 29 months 11500 miles with mid-east heat and another one has failed At US250 each for MB original 100 per year cost to own. Have seen (240 forum) a temporary repair - drilled and tapped for bolt and made rigid. Do not plan to do that but a spring type modification considered
Press down in the middle of the belt run between pulleys or devices. One centimeter or 12 deflection is good. Too tight and you burn out bearings and clutches and stuff. Too loose and they squeal when wet like in my Pontiac.