For the outer dustcap usually a big pair of chanel locks will do the job. Youll need them to adjust the lock nut anyway. My guess is you got it cocked in there with the hammer and thats why u were killing yourself. As for the inner seal a seal puller is the way to go but since you were swapping the bearings out anyway there is another way. After you remove the outer bearing just spin the lock nut back
Quote Originally Posted by bobbyjo9 For the outer dustcap usually a big pair of chanel locks will do the job. Youll need them to adjust the lock nut anyway. My guess is you got it cocked in there with the hammer and thats why u were killing yourself. As for the inner seal a seal puller is the way to go but since you were swapping the bearings out anyway there is another way. After you remove the outer
Instead of changing the bearings and races etc.. Wouldnt it be a lot easier to just changed the wheel hub assembly itself Yes it costs a lot more. But it seems like the money would be worth it not to go through all the pain and struggle All you would have to do is shove MB grease in there and you are all set. It would make the job so much easier instead of trying to pack and drive out bearings etc..
Quote Originally Posted by mercedes00320 Instead of changing the bearings and races etc.. Wouldnt it be a lot easier to just changed the wheel hub assembly itself Yes it costs a lot more. But it seems like the money would be worth it not to go through all the pain and struggle All you would have to do is shove MB grease in there and you are all set. It would make the job so much easier instead of trying
Quote Originally Posted by bowersmichael I had a bad front bearing and I need to replace the steering knuckle the bearing kit the front hub and the ball joint on my 2002 clk 320. I am looking for some low cost parts. Any suggestions. The dealer wants 1400 for parts. whats wrong with the steering knuckle and hub autohausaz.com for the front bearing kits and ball joints.
Quote Originally Posted by sfclk whats wrong with the steering knuckle and hub autohausaz.com for the front bearing kits and ball joints. well when it went bad i was doing 45 mph and the it sounded like i got a flat tire so I pulled over. When I pulled over the wheel was red hot. The mechanic said everything got too hot and damaged the hub and steering knuckle.
I did this on my 04 with no drama. I have a cheap press which I used to get the race out of the hub. Im sure you could pound it out if you have to. As far as tightening up the bearing I again bought an inexpensive gauge from Harbor Freight. This is a simple DIYr
Samsongee please click user cp and edit details to add your VEHICLE and LOCATION to your profile as it is useful information when youre seeking assistance. It is not terribly difficult. You have to remove the caliper and rotor and then you remove the dust cap and loosen the clamp bolt on the axle nut. Then you remove the axle nut and pull the hub off. If the new one has bearings I would still repack
Is there a special tool required to get the wheel bearing cap off It looks like the cap goes over the hub whereas most other wheel bearing caps fit inside the hub. Most other wheel bearing caps come off easily when you apply a proper beating - my clk320 wheel bearing caps dont seem to want to come off.
Did you manage to get the hub off without using a puller Im surprised if you did. Anyway dont bang it on now if it is jammed. Get it off and see what the problem was before you try again. The WIS shows a puller and an installer are normally required. Did you check the bearing play (end float) I have some details & drawings of the hub and bearing if you are stuck.
Well didnt have to hit that hard. just paranoid about damaging racesbearingsor spindle. looks like a few blemishes on the race but I could feel nothing. did the brakes on both sides but have to wait for another rear seal and a new grease cap (put a hole in it with a screwdriver Primitive Pete).
Quote Originally Posted by willscott64 I can get hold of new bearing kit for 15 - should I do both at the same time If so is it worth inspectingadjusting to see if this cures it Hi. I dont know if you have done wheel bearings before but its not like changing sparkplugs... Each front hub has an inner and an outer tapered roller bearing. The WIS lists the following tools for the job 2 extractors 2 installers
I too experianced this cluncking noise on tight slow turns best way to describe it is its like your sliding on marbles and a whine that sounds like brake squel but doesnt change when apply the brakes. Well finally last night the hubbearing failed not catastrophic thank god i was doing 25 got it home and jacked it up sure enough the right hub is toast 1 play . Luckily it did not sieze up or weld it
After you pull the wheel off you pullpop the hub cap (cap in the center of the rotor) off. There will be grease packed in there. Slacken the hexagon socket head screw and remove the large clamping nut (the clamping nut has one semicircle with two flat edges next two it and a screw on the opposite end of the semicircle). (I cant remember if I had to loosen the rotor or not but if you do there is one
and nut. Preload loosen adjust bearing secure with allen screw reinstall dust cap and you are through. The biggest trick is the adjustment. MB specifies a .01-.02 mm runout and you need a dial gauge and magnetic mount for that. Check the 210 forum help stickies re adjustment. You can get a decent dial gauge and magnetic mount at HF for under 50. Here is the forum sticky I mentioned httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsw210...free-play.html
Your best bet really is to replace the hub if its truly stripped. On a clk320 the hubs are just W202 parts so they shouldnt be more than 120 each (front or rear). On a clk55 the rear hubs are R129 (SL) parts and are quite a bit more costly. Replacing the hubs is a little bit involved (it requires removing the bearings and repacking them). If youve not repacked wheel or hub bearings before I suggest you dont learn on your clk and leave it to a mechanic. -s-
I think that you have correctly eliminated (a) engine (b) transmission. So what else is spinning while you are moving (c) prop shaft - flex disc OK (d) differential - any sign of oil loss (e) half-shafts (f) wheel hubs (c) (d) (e) would be affected by loading which you say is not present. front wheel bearings generally make more noise while turning. Im not sure what affects the rear wheel bearings noise ....
I bought the mercedes wheel bearing kit from Pelican parts for 50. It comes with inner and outer bearings races self locking nut dust cap grease and radial seal ring. This gave me a great excuse to buy a press I have always wanted. 12 ton at Harbor Freight for 129. -) The job was straightforward. The inner race had significant discoloration but the bearings were still intact. Who knows how long they
I have replace bearings on both sides of the front I did if my self - 12 hour each side you need to take the disc off first to bet to the hub which incases innner - outer bearings- these need to be bang or press out - if you have driven with them seized its possible they might be defused together - shell on hub -(
Quote Originally Posted by bobbyjo9 I think Keyhole was thinking of the rear. The front hub needs no special tools to remove. A hex key to release the lock nut then remove the lock nut and the assembly will slide off the spindle. No - I was talking about the front. The bearing should come out easily but I would be surprised if the hub does. You might be right of course I took my info from the WIS that suggests that a puller is needed. See below
Removed the wheel and the bearing was basically gone. Desintegrated Wheel was loose Removed cap locking nut rotor and bearing assembly. Need to knock out the front and rear seals and clean the hub. Any thoughts here Then on to Autozone for the bearing kit and reassembly. Thanks Joe
Ugh. If youre in a larger metro area call all the dealers for a price. They charge whatever they want so there usually is some variation. While youre at it please click user cp and add your vehicle (including the year) and location to your profile its useful information. If youre not in a rush you can call duvalmotorcars.com they are in Gainesville FL and sell at a discount. Spindles are kind of heavy
The spindle came today. It had the hub and bearings already installed. Will be replacing this afternoon. Re-packing the bearings with grease also.
Quote Originally Posted by jfikentscher The spindle came today. It had the hub and bearings already installed. Will be replacing this afternoon. Re-packing the bearings with grease also. My driver side bearing seized in December new MB spindle was 530 bucks Canadian bearings werent bad (140 bucks for driver and passenger if I have to change one I do them both). The messed up part about it was there
My right front wheel bearing was bad at 64k. It did not squeak it was more of a light grinding sound which would come and go but was noticeable making left hand turns. Sometimes if I leaned on it hard the sound would last going straight for several minutes. I too had no noticeable play in the hub but the inner bearing showed signs of being overheated. The replacement kit as around 60 at Autohauz which
Dont touch the bearings The rotor is just stuck to the hub due to rust. Spray around the front and back of the rotor where it meets the hub with a penetrating oil. Then use a hammer and a wood block to persuade it to come loose as shown in the diagrams below then give it a few good whacks from behind. You might consider lightly coating the back of the new rotors with high-temp grease to make the next change easier.
When all else fails start over. Put the tires back to their location before the rotation. If the problem changes Id suspect a rimtire problem. If no change then chances are its in the front end. Are you sure you did the bearing correctly When you say the wheel has movement are you saying the wheel has excessive play on the hub
Quote Originally Posted by samsongee funny thing i have the exact same set of problems. i wonder if this is common. i too have replaced all the mounts and still feel the vibration. both mounts were bad. Im cant figure out the slight shake on the idle either. Ive even done the plugs and wires. that didnt fix. im out of ideas. suspension ive also put on new tires had the shop rebalance. Im thinking of
hub-centric spacers are applicable if you have after-market rims - not the stock rims although the tire shops will try to sell them to you either way. Vibration in the steering wheel can be a few things 1) Tire balancing is probably the most common. 2) bad tire(s) 3) warped brake rotors (if vibration startsstops when pressing on the brake) Vibration throughout the car can be a few other things 1) all
There is a mercedes alignment and a regular allignment. With the true mercedes alignment they put some weight hanging off the rear to preload the rear shocks. Supposedly it makes a difference when they take the measurements. There also is a MB kit to make the rear fully adjustable. My tire guy wont even do a MB and they have a full Hunter setup. The cost at a dealer is about 159 which is very expensive
keep me company. The car handles extremely well at high speeds and on windy roads. Now for the cons. The car burns consumes oil at high speeds. I ofter drive 800 miles between 2 cities I frequent and if I drive over 100 MPH consistently I will consume around 2 litres under 80 MPH and little to no oil is consumed. Ive confirmed with both the dealer and my current mechanic (ex race car driver for mercedes)
Heres the WIS docs on removing the bearings httpbenzbits.comw209frontwheelhub.pdf When adjusting the proper wheel bearing play do so with the brakes installed (rotor caliper pads). you should have between 0.01 and 0.02mm of lateral play on the hub. There is a specific tool for measuring this. Without the tool the rule of thump is to rotate the hub while gently tightening the bolt until you feel a change
I drove the clk 500 last week so I was aware of a few issues so I took it to my mechanic before I made an offer. He scanned the computer and put it on the lift. Heres what I found out 1. Window regulator left rear- (Not deal killer but still at least 500 and window did not stay up) 2. Parking brake sensor bad warning light wont got off brake not on 3. Headlight sensor bad dimmer 4. Coolant leak I know
Quote Originally Posted by racelance I ordered my H&R Springs and my wheels for my new clk430. Ive noticed some people use spacers and some dont. Im curious if you would recommend me purchasing spacers or not for the rear. Below are the wheel and tire sizes for the front & rear 19 x 8.5 Offset 35 (front) & 19 x 9.5 Offset 35 (Rear) 2353519 (front) & 2653019 (Rear) I like the flush look my plans are