I dont know how mercedes recommends to kill the mold. Anyway I dont think any treatment is 100% successful. BMW has a sort of steamer that sits in the car for a couple of hours and puffs out some kind of disinfectant while the AC is left running. My friend who owns a BMW dealership says it doesnt really work but it makes customers feel happier. I mix some Dettol (hospital disinfectant sold in most
If your in the UK. Go to some where like Kwik Fit. They have an automated machine which will re-gas your air con. If there is a problem no charge. You should get it done for 30 to 50 GBP. Haggle Its worth having it done every year you will also know how much gas has been lost. If you have AC problems then its time to look at the AC companies or mercedes or you can change things like condensers yourself its not rocket science.... and save some money.
My 99 has had the same problem for almost 2 years. My dealer has replaced the filter several times but the smell comes back. They replaced the heater core and that did not fix it. Im bringing it back in next week and they are going to try again. condenser and the reciever dryer are suspect. They claim mercedes is no help with this problem. We need to find out if other people have had this problem sucessfully repaired. My dealer in Colorado is lost.............
I know it has been a while but did anyone find a solution to this problem My 99 ML320 has a foul odor associated with the air conditioner. Ive replaced the cabin air filter which didnt help and sprayed Lysol into the intake which helped a little but Id like a more permanent solution. I suspect it may have something to do with either the condenser or condenser drain tube but I dont want to start pulling that stuff apart until Im sure I can fix it. Thanks
I should have said evaporator rather than condenser in the previous post
Quote Originally Posted by BajaCat I know it has been a while but did anyone find a solution to this problem My 99 ML320 has a foul odor associated with the air conditioner. Ive replaced the cabin air filter which didnt help and sprayed Lysol into the intake which helped a little but Id like a more permanent solution. I suspect it may have something to do with either the condenser or condenser drain
If the compressor failed and you are looking at the redo acutally the parts set is not as damaging as you might think. Compressor new Behr China compressor is a bargain at the price for like 245 which some internet parts houses sell for like 385 under their private brands. OE dier should be 40 OE expansion valve like 40 o-ring kit like 8 the whole sheabng for like 340. 1996 - 2008 Chrysler Dodge mercedes
Quote Originally Posted by no clue Sorry I am not good w cars. I will just post whatever they do from my bill. OPCODE 831534 79 831780 42 837970 70 831762 112 541011 42 Parts are 1 203-830-04-72 77 22 Q-4-83-0190 26.84 Total 448.84 Funny things is ...I really have no idea exactly what they charge me. ( yes there is decription but I just dont get them at all. Here is what they type on the description
vvr it sounds like one of your hvac door flaps is not functioning. Try switching to full heat (not the temp control the air outlet control) and different vent positions (like defrost) to actuate all the flaps then go back to AC to see what happens. Try full defrost with full low temp setting to see if you get cold air out of the defrost vents. The motors that drive these flaps are known problem areas.
Quote discap - 7252005 659 PM Follow up on an old thread. I have a 2000 G500. The AC recently started acting intermittantly. Several people suggested low freon. Below is what we have eliminated Low Freon Compressor Compressor Clutch The clutch is not getting power. The car has been at the MB dealer for a week. The Saab dealer (Europa) is not forthcoming with wiring diagrams. Any ideas on problem spots
I am a ase certified Tech Located in SW mo.I use 134 freon & pag oil Also you may want to up grade the condenser & cooling fan since 134 runs at a higher head pressure. I ve goy ways to make it blow snow flakes in july Larry
Quote Originally Posted by satking Just ordered a UV Light to have a full investigationthe only way to do it proper is to do it myselfwhen you say to take a photo of the condenser to get the correct one what am I looking for is it sizepipes or mounting brackets. See below. Car air conditioning Parts Compressors condensers Radiators Pumps Free Delivery Mine was the top 1 where the brackets are on both
Refrigerant type can be determined from the chargingpressure ports. R12 uses schraeder valve similar to tire valves. R134 uses quick-connect ports similar to air-hose quick-connects. This is assuming your system is original and nobody did any conversion without the proper adapters. A proper repair for your ac would include 1. repair of the problem 2. replacement of the receiverdryer 3. replacement
Ive had a series of air conditioning issues on my 2008 C-300. IF you are experiencing that the ac blows cold for a while then you hear the electric blower for the radiator rev up at about the same time you lose your ac cooling then its probably the ac condenser. That was about a 1500 repair. What clogged up the condenser was a previous ac repair where they replaced the dryer bag. Bag broke and particles
I thought mine needed a recharge well took it to the local repair shop asked if they did work on benz they said yes... Recharged it put a color die in it and well found a leak on the condenser oring fixed it now enjoying ice cold air cost was two hr of labor and a pound of r134a and the new oring 184.95
Assuming all the damn sensors are working and clean and you have a ac system that is charged properly - heres a couple of things. If its really hot - over 95 the system no matter what setting seems to take a little longer than say a brand new MB simply because the newer cars take advantage of the super high setting of the cooling fan - not the 2nd speed that ours uses. Noticed this on my S550 and BMW
Quote Originally Posted by stim141 To keep the system maintained - deep clean the condenserradiator. It does make a difference. I also have had my evaporator cleaned - amazing what crap gets in the coil and clogs the airflow. Where is the evaporator located Where exactly in the car
I thought I needed re-gassing but soon found I had a leak in my condenser. I had a new condenser fitted and have been re-gassed and my air con is to die for. Interestingly I can have the EC light off and the air con on ice cold one side and if you adjust the temp dial to hot I can have hot out the other side at the same time which is great when the missus says the car is too cold.........
My 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor stopped blowing cold and a local garage inspection discovered a hole in the condenser either corrosion or a stone impact. They drained the fluid and said a new one was required. Does anyone know if a condendenser is easily replacedrepaired and is there a problem running meantime without fluid I priced a replacement online as between 83 to 110. Are there any other implications Thanks
Baz Sorry to hear of your misfortune. My advice is to locate a air-conditioning specialist. They will know what the pressure side (small hose) and suction side (large hose) system pressure should be. These readings are important in isolating component issues. My experience with after market compressor is that they will not warrant the part unless you replace the receiverdryer too. It is not impossible
The cooling fans are meant to supliment airflow in the engine comartment when idleing at low rpms and standing still. Congratulations You must be a genius Maybe it never gets warm in Michigan. You must either never slow down or have low expectations for air conditioning to make a suggestion like that. Maybe it never gets warm in Michigan. If MB could have gotten away with eliminating the fans don™t
Quote Originally Posted by The Melmaan I still cannot locate the relay for the aircon. will for the switch on the left side of the car. Be sure to check the pressure switches on the DrierReceiver first. The switch for the compressor opens if the freon is low so youll need to short the connector to see if the compressor comes on. The other switch is for the aux. fans. It closes when the pressure increases
Quote Originally Posted by slk230red Be sure to check the pressure switches on the DrierReceiver first. The switch for the compressor opens if the freon is low so youll need to short the connector to see if the compressor comes on. The other switch is for the aux. fans. It closes when the pressure increases so the aux. fans turn on to cool down the condenser. Then if you suspect the Klima relay it
Quote Originally Posted by Ears usually it is fungus or mold or similar. The air also breaks it up and if it is dissolved or disseminated enough itll drain out with the water. Kinda like a sludge. Usually a build up of damp dust from the dust that gathers on the condenser coil and eventually gets washed down with condensate. It accumulates and agglomerates ergo stopping up the tube. You just cant argue with a word like agglomerates. Its almost like the word fraught but even awesomer.
So how does the fungus or mold or sludge or dust or whatever else may or may not accrete on the AC condenser coil manage to emigrate en masse all the way to the AC evaporator box
Quote Originally Posted by isthisdave So how does the fungus or mold or sludge or dust or whatever else may or may not accrete on the AC condenser coil manage to emigrate en masse all the way to the AC evaporator box Oops... Good Catch. EVAPORATOR COIL (I stand corrected).
Quote Originally Posted by msarles1 i just converted mine to 134 but you have to remember that r-12 does not produce the high head pressures of r134 therefore your aux electric fans need to both be running at high speed all the time for the 134 to cool properly when you convert you only install 85% 134 of the total r12 charge mine cools extremly well for 134 now 134 is good and cheap for old leaking
Quote Originally Posted by A1EK I have read through many old post on re-charging the aircon gas but I am still struggleing to know if I need to extinguish the old gas first or can I just by a DIY gas from (Halfords I live in the UK) and top up the AC system I am going to clean out the duo-valve as there is a good DIY post on here that Ive seen but I still have questions The questions are Is it deffinately
BTW if the system has been sitting open for a while I would change the drier again. This might help explain it Quote WHAT DOES A DRIER DO- DRY ITS NOT THE FREON Its the oil in the refrigerant that absorbs moisture and holds debris in the system. Replacing the drier accumulator in addition to evacuation will assure better performance. Why Replace the Receiver-Drier The receiver-drier must be changed
these cars are about 17 -25 years old there are bound to be leaks there are usually slow leaks caused by bad o rings at the line fittings and the such also there may be a pin hole leak or 2 at the condenser or evap. my volvo has worn rings somewhere and it loses charge aftera while it hasnt been running i end up charging at the beginning of summeer and im good for a season.
Ksing a few things in your post dont make sense to me. To put it bluntly whoever told you its good to vacuum and recharge the system every three years is off his rocker. The ac system is a closed system and is best left alone until it needs repair. A properly manufactured (or repaired) system should have no moisture in it. Except for cleaning the condenser and evaporator (if you can get at it) and
Mine works well at 25-30 psi on the low-side . I agree with your ideas maybe the compressor is going. I was thinking over charged but your high side should be higher. Perhaps jump the clutch to run steady and watch your pressures to get a max to see what the compressor can do. Keep a water hose ready to cool the condenser .
Quote Originally Posted by DrexlerMcStyles I turned on my AC for the first time the other day ( I just got the car a couple weeks ago) and it worked great hopped on the freeway and drove about 3 miles got off and drove and additional 3 miles on city streets. Right before I pulled into the place I was going I felt a little bit of liquid (water) drip on my (accelerator) foot. I turned the AC off and
One common problem with AC units is that the drain line for the ACs condenser is plugged up.
I remember the MB system ran a few pounds higher all the way around. I keep a garden hose handy to cool the condenser back to a normal pressure on hot days while charging . httpwww.ackits.comindex.cfmfuseactionChart
OK I have a 1987 300D Turbo AC doesnt work. I have no clue whats wrong with it (yeah thats very helpful to anyone trying to help [)]). Ive been told that the condenser is the faulty item. Is there anyway i can find out without visiting a mechanic Thanks in advanced
ksing what vent temperatures are you getting Is the compressor cycling normally You also mentioned there was fluorescent dye in the system. May I assume no leaks were found I know its hard to judge ac performance with the cold spring weve been having. Jason the only way to begin assessing the condition of your ac is to connect manifold gauges to measure the pressures - static and operating. How did somebody figure that your condenser is faulty
My car was sold to me by a mechanic. He had to perform repairs on the car because its been in a accident. Either he knows that the condenser was hit and broken or he found out otherwise. Other than that I wouldnt know whats wrong with it.
The Haynes manual does not cover this topic. What I know of this issue is that it is a big time repair job involving removing the radiator and then the ac compressor the dryer and probably your evaporator and condenser. One way to do it is to go to Craigs list in your area and find an independent mechanic who will come to your place to do the work and you buy the parts. Unless you have the strength
For your well-respected mechanic to determine that the repair will be labour-intensive heshe must know what is wrong The most labour-intensive replacement will be the evaporator which is behind the dash. Most other components are under the hood. If diagnosis has been done see what needs to be replaced. Get a shop to recover any freon that is still in the system. Replace the defective components yourself
Converted (from R12 to R134a) AC systems simply are not as efficient. Depending on ambient conditions you may not be able to do much about it other than retrofitting to R12 at greater expense. The R134a factory equipped W124s came with larger compressors dual aux fans and larger condenser to make up for the lack of efficiency.
R107s ended production in 1989 and R134 was made mandatory in 1993. Some manufactures saw it coming and beefed up the ac systems in theirs cars. Unfortunately this was not the case with ours as production ended way before R134 became standard. Im not going to go into the benefits of R12 vs R134 as its been talked to death already you can still buy R12 on eBay as its still legal to sell existing stock
more freon and dye earlier this year but when i took it back to the shop a bit later no dye had leaked so they couldnt find the source of the issue. is adding refrigerant to the system the same thing as what they did or something different lastly how do i run the diagnostic how is this done exactly Thanks Frank In reverse order the sticky links you to this site air conditioning Diagnosis Eclassbenz.com
I have a 98 E320 and had the exact same problem. With the fans in full test mode they spun very slowly and at times didnt run at all until I pushed them with my finger. I found a fan control module on eBay for 70 and am awaiting its delivery. Once I install it I will let you know whether it was the fan control module that was making the fans spin so slowly. Also my mercedes dealer is EXTREMELY helpful