Im not aware of any that sell assembled. If youre able to pull the old hub off you can take it to a shop to get the old bearing pressed out & new pressed in. 5050 chance your old hub will work fine. if its worn bad enough and your description does sound rough youre on the wrong side of that 5050... If not then you can spend money & get new hub. Or get new hub up front and if not needed sell it...
237 including tax out the door. The hub was ok but the bearing was shot to hell. Rides good now. No clicking or weird humming on the highway.
Single bearing is under 40 (I paid 67 shipped for the pair) labor. I havent done it yet but I understand they can occasionally be a royal first class PITA to get out of the hub. Did they do an alignment If youre not running SPC ABJs its probably not that big of a deal if they didnt. I havent changed mine yet I just wanted them handy cause Ive seen too many fail early on on the Speed6.
I had them do an alignment a few months back. It shouldnt change if youre reusing the same hub.
mazmart carries fronts and the fronts SHOULD be the same as the NA..... call the stealership and compare part numbers on the NA and MS. PS I had tire kingdom do a front bearing for 400 including parts. never considered ordering a hub and a guy on 6crew contact mazmart and get one for 150 bucks IIRC.
Thanks man. Yeah the hub is like 90 bucks off online mazda parts or whatever that site was above. My mechanic just wanted to have the part there just in case he got it all off and the hub was bad and he had no part. But yeah all the things i read on the forum i only saw the bearing being replaced so hopefully i will be able to ship it back.
It deff sounds as if your bearing is shot When I first suspected bearing play on my MS6 it showed no signs of wheel movement when I shook the front end down. Yet once I removed the hub assembly I didnt bother to even try and save the hub. I ordered new ones for the simple fact it was beyond shot and tryin to press the bearing outta the hub was not reassuring enough for me. P.S the ford fusion has the exact same hub assembly as our MS6s.
cant find the front hub at rock auto. guess ill have to go with online mazda parts
bearings can get damaged if you hammer them in no how hard or soft you go on them. The cv shouldnt have to be removed in replacing a hub bearing if anything usually you just pull off the hub assembly with knuckle and then knock out the old bearing in which case hitting it with a hammer shouldnt damage anything. Unless you have a bearing press I would let a shop take care of it plus sometimes you can
Last time I took the whole spindle out and brought it to a shop. The part where I hammered is to slide the spindle with bearing and hub already assembled onto the CV join. Did I do anything wrong. How is one suppose reinsert the CV join back into the spindle with bearing and hub without hammering it
I hit the axle directly. At first I was lacking knowledge on the removal of axles so I pounded it with a small sledge hammer. I flattened the end piece and then used a brass pin so it wouldnt damage the tip. I just purchased a gear puller and Ill try using that. I think using that with an impact wrench will allow it to come out easy. Its the putting back in Im worried about. I dont remember the axle
I wouldnt hit the end of the CV joint. You could damage the threaded end of the shaft the transmission and the bearings in the joint because if you think about it the CV joint has no where to go if youre hitting it in that direction. The gear puller might work but I dont remember if I used one. I wouldnt heat the hub since it might burn the grease inside the hub bearings. Check the splines in the hub
I started on it last night. Make sure you have a 35mm axle nut socket a 23mm socket for the lower ball joint nuts (1516ths is close) and a 7mm allen socket for the callipers. A ball joint separator is recommended for popping the ball joints out of the knuckle. If you use a hammer you will mushroom the nuts like I did The rest of the tools are normal. An impact gun is highly recommended for the axle
Good info. whish I saw it before I put in my new knuckle as I had to run to the store twice for the 35mm axle nut socket and something else and again to rent the bj press as I did mushroom mine so I had to install my SPCs. I did it a few weeks ago but I found a deal on a knucke with hub so assuming the bearing is good for under 100 im happy. I may need to do the rear bearing thou so we will see. I see them on ebay for 69 but probably not even the right ones.
if i buy the hub does it come with the bearing inside So i can just swap hub assemblies and not have to worry about bring it to a shop and getting it pressed. Online mazda Parts (link to front hub part) car has 76k miles. thanks
[QUOTEfuziwuzi3261156]if i buy the hub does it come with the bearing inside So i can just swap hub assemblies and not have to worry about bring it to a shop and getting it pressed. good question fuziwuzi. great info steve12345
Yes if the front right bearing is bad you will get noise when you make a hard left. A hard right takes the load off the bearing so it is a little quiter. I just replaced the bearing hub axle brakes rotor and control arm on my 2003 mazda 6 and it was a &% The control arm was the culprit Had the front end aligned and I was told to have the caster pulled back into place. (did not do that) Still have the
Quote Originally Posted by snidly Yes if the front right bearing is bad you will get noise when you make a hard left. A hard right takes the load off the bearing so it is a little quiter. I just replaced the bearing hub axle brakes rotor and control arm on my 2003 mazda 6 and it was a &% The control arm was the culprit Had the front end aligned and I was told to have the caster pulled back into place.
soupman If you want to confirm that it is your wheel bearing jack up the front of your car and put it in neutral. Grab the coil spring while spinning the tire. If you have a bearing going bad it will translate through the spring and into your hand. You will be able to feel it clear as day. The wheel bearing is pressed in and will need to be pressed out of the spindle assembly and then the inner race
PartsGeek has the fronts for 36.25 Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
The 36 is about right. I just did both of my fronts with SKF and they are nice.
Flip hes talking front bearings. these have to be pressed into the knuckle. Yes you can buy a knuckle with the bearing it it but thats The rears are hub assemblies
I found a used knuckle with a bearing in it. Best choice it take the knuckle off (need a 35mm socket for the drive shaft my biggest problem was banging the lock dent out of the nut but the slot is angled up so with the right sized chisel like punch in there the angle forces it up into the nut to straighten it out) take the knuckle and new bearing to a shop that will press the old one out and put the new one in. Make sure they had there coffee so they dont split the new bearing in half when they press in the hub i.e. support the bearing from below on the inside race. httpforum.mazda6club.comindex.phpshow...&hlknuckle
From the sound of it you most likely need to replace both sides. Each wheel bearing will cost you around 215 for parts and labor. This is also something that a backyard mechanic cant do. The bearings have to be machined pressed in and out so make sure you mention that when price checking with different shops. One thing to note though when I replaced my wheel bearing the mechanic noticed that the wheel
this. I just had a wheel bearing replaced on my wifes car. The hub was bitched from being let go for too long. Used hub new bearing & labour was 240. With that many kms id expect something besides just the bearings needs replacement. Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
Does the sound go away or get worse when you apply the brakes To check if it is an axle issue you can go to a parking lot from a dead stop crank the wheel all the way to one side and go in REVERSE and listen for a click click click noise. Do that in both directions. If no clicking Axles are most likely OK. Could be a caliper or pair of calipers that are not releasing and the pads are rubbing on the
The shop manual only states that the following SST&39s (special service tools) are required to remove and replace the bearing. 49 G033 106 49 G033 102 49 F026 103 Installation has three more tools 49 F027 003 49 F027 004 49 F027 009 Remove in order (by ). Reverse to reinstall. Locknut (See Locknut Removal Note ) (See Locknut Installation Note ) 2 Brake caliper component 3 Disc plate (See Disc Plate Removal Note ) 4 Tie-rod end ball joint (See Tie-rod End Ball Joint Removal Note ) 5 Bolt 6 front lower arm (front) ball joint (See front Lower Arm (front) Ball Joint Removal Note ) 7 front lower arm (rear) ball joint (See front Lower Arm (Rear) Ball Joint Removal Note ) 8 front upper arm ball joint (See front Upper Arm Ball Joint Removal Note ) 9 Wheel hub steering knuckle dust cover 10 Wheel hub component (See Wheel hub Component Removal Note ) (See Wheel hub Component Installation Note ) 11 Retaining ring 12 Wheel bearing (See Wheel bearing Removal Note ) (See Wheel bearing Installation Note ) 13 Dust cover (See Dust Cover Removal Note ) (See Dust Cover Installation Note ) 14 Steering knuckle 15 hub bolt (See hub Bolt Removal Note ) (See hub Bolt Installation Note ) Obviously these steps have all their own subpages so your going to need your own manual... httpwww.mazdatechinfo.com
bearing but I wanted to get some input from you guys to see what your experiences were. Also if it is the bearing would I replace the bearing or the whole hub I&39ve only replaced a wheel bearing one time and that was on a 1989 Ford F-150 pickup. So I imagine that this will be vastly different. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.[b] hey i got the same problem with my 2005 mazda6
QUOTE (Newlysixed Sep 29 2008 0335 PM) Quote I&39ve got a 2003 6S There&39s a constant noise coming from the front driver&39s side wheel. It sounds like the bearing is shot but when I took off the brake rotor to do a front-end brake job last weekend I noticed the CV boot was worn and there was visible fluid. I&39ve heard what a bad CV sounds like its very metal-on-metal sounding and this is different.
Quote Originally Posted by snidly Soooo Im about ready to change the passenger side wheel bearing for the FIFTH time on my 03 mazda63.0L. Hit a pot hole 2 years ago and just about every 4-5 months the wheel beraring goes bad. Control arms replaced hub replaced axle replaced. The alignment says the SAI is 4.5 and the spec calls for 5.5. min. and max. -1 degree is HUGE. Has anyone else had issues with
Quote Originally Posted by atony Ok just am update. It was the wheel bearing that had worn out. I went ahead and changed both hubs and bearings on the front end and while I was at it replaced the cv axles as well. I can honestly say I cannot remember the last time my car was so quiet going down the road Can you please comment on how difficult it was to replace the wheel bearings Is this a DIY job or
Was the wheel bearing the only thing you replaced or did you also replaced the hub Im looking into now doing both my front bearings and cant seem to find the hubbearing assembly all together since I find it much easier replacing the whole thing instead of pressing the bearing on the hub.
Quote Originally Posted by chilimax21 Why do you need to do this out of curiosity You do not need a special tool to remove the hub. Quote Originally Posted by ghostrider85 The front right wheel bearing has worn out and replaced a month ago i paid 300 dollars for that i think sooner or later other wheel bearing will need to be replaced too so i decided to do it. did you give this a shot my rear bearing
Honestly most mechanics want to replace the hub becuase it is easier than swapping the wheel bearings. I have National(MOOG) up front but TIMKEN is great as well. Unless the hub itself is damaged save your money. I know autozone has ms6 specific hubs and bearings- use for parts
Quote Originally Posted by Final Impact OP Good Job Just curious I see the bearing and hub on the ground what shape were they in Any grease left in them or just noisy Thanks The bearings were just rust on the outer side... I did them about 20k ago with National brand bearings from Advance Auto Parts... They got real bad... I found that the hubs were pretty beat up (didnt pay much attention the first