mazda 5 front door

Answers and questions: mazda 5 front door

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Right front door won&39t lock

Hi guys I wonder if anyone could give me a hint or something. When I try to look the doors (by remote) the front right doors won&39t lock. If I press the remote again they get locked. So at the moment I must click the remote twice to lock all the doors. I don&39t know what should I look for Thanks

QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 0359 AM) Quote Hi guys I wonder if anyone could give me a hint or something. When I try to look the doors (by remote) the front right doors won&39t lock. If I press the remote again they get locked. So at the moment I must click the remote twice to lock all the doors. I don&39t know what should I look for Thanks[b] Don&39t think this is an issue specifically with mazda6s in

QUOTE (DCM6 Sep 4 2009 0217 PM) Quote Don&39t think this is an issue specifically with mazda6s in general but it sounds like something in the electrical is hosed. Normal operations dictate all doors lock on the first button push. My only question is whether the actuator is getting the pulse from the relay. If you plant yourself inside the car and try it on the first button push all of the door lock

QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 0613 AM) Quote Well I tried this and there is no sound or vibration at first front right door when I click on the remote for the first time. For the second time I can feel the vibration and sound of the motor. Could be that some wire has a short circuit or something[b] And that&39s the ONLY door doing this

QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 1208 PM) Quote Yes. Temporary solution is that I click twice on remote but...I would like to solve this problem somehow.[b] OK that&39s weird. Normally relays power each side so there is a pair of relays controlling the driver side and another for the passenger and so if there was a bad relay you&39d see both doors on either one side or the other go bad. This sounds possibly

MAZDA 6 I GG GY removing front seats & door panel

ok so I have a 2004 mazda 6 and the drivers side door does not open. The lock works but the door is not catching to open. Needless to say I&39m getting tired of playing the dukes of hazard. So I need to know if anyone knows how to take the front seat out and how to take the door panel off when the door is shut I know how to take it off in general just with the door open.

View Front door for MAZDA 5

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Front Door Speaker Depth

I have a set of Kenwood 25th Anniversary Compenents sitting around from an install I was going to do on my MS Protege but ended up selling the car so it never happened. I sold off the rest of that system but kept the components because quite simply theyre the sickest set of components Ive ever had my hands on. That said theyre 6 34 width and super deep due to the size of the magnet on them. What stopped

It will tell me they dont fit because theyre not 6x8 components... Im trying to do a custom install on these with fabricated plates. I just want to make sure before I go in that there is enough room in the door panel for the depth of speaker. If no one knows I guess Ill just have to pull the door panel and measure I was just hoping someone had already been through this and could share the info...

with some effort you can get some pretty deep components into the doors. Since the brand is kenwood Id imagine they wouldnt make a driver so deep it wouldnt fit in the majority of car doors and mazda isnt known for having the shallowest doors (like the wrx for example). If you are under 3 you should be just fine with whatever effort needs to be taken to get them in there. Under 2.5 itll be a no brainer.

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Front doors dont close properly

This is my second used first-gen 6 and I noticed the same issue as with the previous one. The driver and passenger doors dont seem to close properly. While the rear doors close nice and softly without much effort the front doors require a harsher slam. When the doors do close shut the sound the make appears to be the sound of metal contact rather than the soft rubbery contact of the rear doors. Is

You can always install new rubber door seals. I have found on my car for some reason people have a tendancy to slam the fron door but not the rear. I believe the front doors are lighter on the 6 than theyare on other cars therefore ppl are use to using certain force to close a door and that force is not required on our car.

Throw some masking tape across the door seam just below the window area connecting the two doors keeping the tape parallel to the body line. With something sharp cut the tape separating the two doors. Kneel at eye level and slowly open the door watching to see if the front door drops in relation to the tape line. If it drops while leaving the striker adjustments may be required. Confirm bolts are tight securing the latch in the door. Confirm the door fits the hole i.e.. Mainly the gaps in the vertical direction are even up and down the door at both the fender and the rear door. Taking note if the body line is perfect from fender to door and from door to rear door. What you need to know is this If the striker post on the body is lifting the door when it being shut AND making the body line too high at the back move the striker down on the body. If the body line is low when closed it could the hinges are worn or the door needs moved up. The point being the striker contact should NOT pull the door up or force it down. Next is the depth. If the rear edge of the door is sunken below the rear door the striker is too deep and pulling the door in too far. it need to be moved out. Other issues are door tilt worn latches and worn hinges. Observation of how good door fit and how many variables there are will shed light on what is wrong. Sometimes its just greasing the latch. Other times the door and striker need adjustment. After market seals may not meet spec (being too thick or too thin) as well as improper body repairs. Cars that have been jumped over ditches usually drop the doors so the body lines are messed up as the NOSE was driven up. Same is true with collisions. Smashing into objects often times drops the doors down in the rear as the pillar area is driven back. Slowly open an close all the doors feeling how they fit what contacts when and watching the body line. Over time you get a feel for what causes what. Also try it with a window down or hatch open. Cabin pressure changes how doors close as do some vent settings. Leaving internal vents open in the cab allows the doors to close easier. JJD952

What I didnt say (if you can believe that) improper repairs after accidents are the 1 cause of doors not fitting right. Followed by worn and damaged parts. Mr.Smoke might wanna move this to the Models Trim as its not specific to the V6.

FWIW mine also has a clean car fax however - both front and rear bumper covers have been repainted at a sub par level. i knoew this when I bought it. These are all things you can do in the drive way. if you have a second car go play with the doors on it too. PS - do it with windows closed and windows open. it makes a difference in cabin pressure.

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Some help w Wiring front door speakers

So i started my system install w the rear doors first. I was able to run the speaker wire thru the white molexwhatever u call it connector. I got the amp wired up and the rears sound ok. I hooked up the loc for the rears to the rear speaker wires behind HU. I knew they gave less output than the fronts but whatever i can change it later to get the signal from the fronts. Anyway my issue is trying to

the hardest part for me was actually fishing the wires from under the dash and into the molex. you first have to pop the molex out of its place - there are 4 clips that you can use a flathead to unclip - they are the top and bottom 2 each side just off center. you have to pry the white molex out enough to access the clips then just push the flathead in and pry it out. i used a rag around the flathead to avoid scratching so take care here. i then used a really long plastic zip tie and just pushed it through the outside edge of the molex and into the car until i managed to poke through into the car then hook the wires and pull it back through. there are some grooves in the outer edges of the molex which you can run the wires through. i had a pretty thick group of wires and they fit. you then route the wires through the rubber wire canal and onto the door panel. the passanger side is way easy - just remove the glove compartment and molex piece like above. its easy to see where the wires run. here is a link that helped me ton. you have to read through some stuff but there are some good pics. httpforum.mazda6club.comindex.phpshow...33&hlmolex

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Front door speaker and power wire install question

So I started work on my system and I have a few questions 1) How do I fully access the outer door skin I took off the panel and most of the inner skin but I couldn&39t get the latches off the door handle. Also the window almost fell out becuase I didn&39t realize it was free from the panel Luckily I got it all together but I need to access the outer skin to deaden it. 2) How do I properly get wire

Dude take your wire the the driver&39s side. Trust me. You will not get through that easily on the pass there is too much AC equip there. As for the doors I ran 14ga into my doors I went through the OEM molex connectors I found in each conn there was a space of 4 pins that were empty and I drilled through them. And the outer skin you can lock the window in place by jamming a small sliver of MDF in each window track to hold it up without causeing any damage.

This is evidence of why I should ask questions before I do things. I ran the wires on friday and zip tied everything perfectly so now I have to redo it all...boo. Anyway how do I unlatch the door handle That&39s what really held me up in my door deadening mission.

Pull up on the post that the lock and handle mount to this will pop them off as an assembly and the cables that run into the door will then be easily removed. Then just pull the wires off of the skin unbolt the window motor and the window track unscrew the screw towards the back of the door that attaches to a relay or something (not totally sure what it is) and it should then come off. I&39d say tape

Quote Originally posted by DaveRulz May 30 2005 0837 PM Pull up on the post that the lock and handle mount to this will pop them off as an assembly and the cables that run into the door will then be easily removed. Then just pull the wires off of the skin unbolt the window motor and the window track unscrew the screw towards the back of the door that attaches to a relay or something (not totally sure

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Front Door Panels Rattle Would Dynamat Help

The inner plastic door panels of the front doors are rattling... I&39m wondering if applying dynamat directly to these panels would help. I&39ve seen pics and how-to&39s of people dynamatting the metal of the doors themselves but I don&39t know if that actually helps the plastic inner door panels from rattling. Also I&39m not that bothered by road noise so I wasn&39t planning on dynamatting the doors

MAZDA 6 I GG GY issue with front doors lockunlock

I tried searching through the forum and found lots of keyless remote related topics but it did not help me to get my issue resolved. I just bought used remote from ebay and went through the programming steps. Everything looked find but I got exited too early. It looks like I have some kind of electrical issue. I can lock and unlock rear doors but not the front ones (both passenger and driver). I can

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Tweeters in the front doors

I have standard audio system with mp3 player (not BOSE) installed and was wondering if there are any tweeters in the front doors. If not is there any place inside the front doors near the speakers that can hold tweeters. Thanks

Its on the sail panel in the front corner of the door. If you look at your outside mirror trim it follows the location of the trim that fits against the door (triangular shape).

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Sound deadening of the front doors complete

Finally got around to sound-deadening the front doors yesterday... meant to take pix but forgot to bring the camera. I applied a single layer of Damplifier Pro to the inner and outer sheet metal with a second leyer right behing the speakers. I also applied a single layer of Overkill to the outer layer of sheet metal (closest to outside) with a second layer right behind the speaker. I was going to apply

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Speaker wire through front doors

Ok so I searched and searched and came up with squat. You guys that have replaced your front speakers. How did you run the speaker wire through the door Did you drill. I got the rear speakers done no problem. I just ground off a little of the plastic plug that goes through the B pillar ran the wire through the rubber boot and it looks great. But the rubber boot for the fronts are buried deep in the

just above the fuse block I removed. 4. Again I fished the wire through the plug on the outside into the cabin with a small hook on it. Then from the inside I used another small fish wire to reach up the hole by the fuse block to hook the wire I had slipped through the plug already. I then pulled it on far enough to again hook my speaker wires to it and then gently pulled it out of the cabin. 5.

so you guys ran wires from amp to door I&39m thinking of doing this cause the rear doors aren&39t worth spit stock right now...

heheh I should remove my door boots and post pics of what I had to do to get my speaker wire through the door when I did my install. The wire I used was 14 awg twisted pair and had an outer shielding layer that made it equivalent to 8 awg. To get it to fit through the door connectors I had to drill them out.... talk about tense moments when you are drilling just mm&39s away from all of your door wiring.

Quote Originally posted by PhatalOne Apr 3 2005 0821 AM heheh I should remove my door boots and post pics of what I had to do to get my speaker wire through the door when I did my install. The wire I used was 14 awg twisted pair and had an outer shielding layer that made it equivalent to 8 awg. To get it to fit through the door connectors I had to drill them out.... talk about tense moments when you

MAZDA 6 I GG GY front door rattles from stereo

When I have the bose system on 10 or better with the eq flat even I get an annoying buzzrattle from the right passenger door. The strange thing is that it stops when I grab the handle and pull it slightly toward me. I tightened up the aluminum arm rest inserts which didnt help one bit. Anyone else experience this How did you deal with it How tuff is it to remove the panel Thanks for all responses.

door rattles with the Bose system are common since the door speakers are full range and the panels themselves are very thin and relatively light to other door panels Ive worked with. Get some Dynamat like soulbelly said. Also if you wanted to try some liquid sound deadner Fat Mat liquid sound is a good choice as it can be brushed onto the back of the door panel. Ive used it mainly on trunktaillight

So is dynamat an insulating pad that you install on the inside of the door Ive been having the same problem with my right front door on my Bose equipped M6. Where is a good place to pick some up where exactly should I install it and how much do I need Thanks MXDan

Buy Fatmat instead works the same way Dynamat does its the same type of material and its cheaper. Although you can really only get Fatmat online ( www.fatmat.com ) it still beats having to pay extra for the Dynamat name. Both Dynamat and Fatmat sell door kits. I think they are for two doors. I just buy mine stuff in bulk because I am putting it all over my car and that way I save a bit of money. for

MAZDA 6 I GG GY What to do with the front door tweeter separates

I&39m planning to replace the four main speakers with aftermarket but I&39m wondering what to do with the two tweeters mounted by the mirror mounts.... My original intent was to run the head unit strictly off four coaxials. Am I going to have to prepare some sort of workaround due to the 6-speaker factory config

I do have component (Kicker) speakers. I guess I will just change out the tweeters. How are Infinity tweeters[b] I&39m using 4ohm Infinity Refrence 6010CS components up front and 6802cf coaxials in the rear with my otherwise stock Bose system. Vast improvement over the stock Bose speakers. They&39re a little less efficient so I listen at a slightly higher volume level (ex. vol setting of 18 vs 15)

MAZDA 6 I GG GY wiring a LOC to the front door speakers

how would i get the wires to the door speakers to tap into the front speakers for a signal with my LOC

Look up the wiring diagram for your particular headunit (year bosenonbose) and tap the LOC into those four wires (front Left and - and front Right and -). I did it by taking my headunit out as well as the glovebox put my LOC behind the glovebox extended the wires coming from the LOC and tapped the ends of those wires into the respective wires of the HU&39s harness.

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Front door speaker wire access

Does anyone know where the spot is to feed wire into the front door panel How do i gain access to it i want to run new speaker wire with the new speakers.

The easiest place to tap into the speaker wires is probably behind the HU. You could try to pick out the speaker wires just before they enter the doors but that would be challenging because there are so many wires and they are packed together tight. If you want to also bypass the stock 18 or 20 guage speaker wiring inside the door thats harder. You cant just feed extra wiring into the door because

MAZDA 6 I GG GY 6s Dynamat Front Door Question

I have a dynamat door kit. My question is where to install it. I have seen various placement options including 1) small 10 x10 square just at the door speaker opening 2)The above but with strips inside the door behind glass on the outer sheet metal door skin 3) Complete inner door sheet metal to replace the plastic factory weather guard curtain. 4) all the above This stuff has allot of weight to it

if you&39re using only the speaker pack put it over the factory speaker location. then cut out the opening like you&39re carving up a pie. wrap the slices around to the inside of the door. be sure to thoroughly clean the surface for install. i use electronics cleaner but you could also use rubbing alcohol. use a roller as well they cost 5 but are worth the expense.

Quote if you&39re using only the speaker pack put it over the factory speaker location. then cut out the opening like you&39re carving up a pie. wrap the slices around to the inside of the door. be sure to thoroughly clean the surface for install. i use electronics cleaner but you could also use rubbing alcohol. use a roller as well they cost 5 but are worth the expense.[b] MK I have the door kit that

LOL say to replace the plastic factory weather guard curtain. Where does it end Whats the best placement. This was purchased to enhance the component speaker install that I plan to do at the same time. I do not notice road noise. 2006 model. Its seems very quiet now. Thanks for your insight and experience. Kramer[b] After completing the install I see that the DYNAMAT door kit is a big waste of 35

MAZDA 6 I GG GY REAL garage door front lip

so who would be interested in doing a REAL homedepot lip made of fiberglass i know the HLD is easy and made of foam and holds up well but it would be silly easy to make (and hopefully cheap) and i think if u wanted the option to paint it (like i do) it would be cool too. so if rhoadblock can contact SSG or he can chime in here maby we can get this moving. please vote in the poll so we can get some interest.

Interesting. Not tryin to thread jack but why hasnt anyone replicated the front side flares like the ones in japan I would buy these in a heartbeat if some1 would make them. These you wont have to worry about tearing them off. Im gonna make these this summer if no one beats me to it

QUOTE (Qwik6 May 5 2009 0742 PM) Quote Interesting. Not tryin to thread jack but why hasnt anyone replicated the front side flares like the ones in japan I would buy these in a heartbeat if some1 would make them. These you wont have to worry about tearing them off. Im gonna make these this summer if no one beats me to it [b] are you talking about the mztune ones....I&39d be all over that if someone made affordable replicas

way he wouldn&39t have to spend the money on an original CF set or waste time waiting for them to get in. I know he&39s got a couple big projects ahead of him right now but if there&39s enough real interest he may get started on these relatively soon (by his timeframe lol). SSXES try to get a numbered interest list together. The more organized we are the better QUOTE (Baseballd2 May 6 2009 1225

MAZDA 6 I GG GY How to replace front door speaker cables

Hi This is my first post after reading this forum for 1.5 years. I have tried to search and read through the whole forum but unable to find the solution for this. First of all I managed to run 13AWG cable on &39passenger side&39 through the door grommet into the car then removed glove box to pull the cable out. But the &39driver side&39 is much harder. I could only push the cable through grommet and

MAZDA 6 I GG GY Fitting 7x5&39s In Front Door

I&39ve bought some Alpine 5x7 speakers to replace some I have in the front (they are going to the rear instead)... however these are 7x5 rather than 6x8. will these fit easily or do they need to bit more work I have read on these forums that some space will be left around the speaker thus impairing audio quality. Is this something that is easily rectified (i.e. by mounting the speaker on some other

thanks can&39t wait to get the alpines installed in the front. I was going to split the power going to the fronts and reroute to the rears so that i&39d get full range on them but from what I&39ve heard the way the speaker setup should be is best at the front and use the rears as fillers so I don&39t think i&39ll bother anymore.

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