QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 0359 AM) Quote Hi guys I wonder if anyone could give me a hint or something. When I try to look the doors (by remote) the front right doors won&39t lock. If I press the remote again they get locked. So at the moment I must click the remote twice to lock all the doors. I don&39t know what should I look for Thanks[b] Don&39t think this is an issue specifically with mazda6s in
QUOTE (DCM6 Sep 4 2009 0217 PM) Quote Don&39t think this is an issue specifically with mazda6s in general but it sounds like something in the electrical is hosed. Normal operations dictate all doors lock on the first button push. My only question is whether the actuator is getting the pulse from the relay. If you plant yourself inside the car and try it on the first button push all of the door lock
QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 0613 AM) Quote Well I tried this and there is no sound or vibration at first front right door when I click on the remote for the first time. For the second time I can feel the vibration and sound of the motor. Could be that some wire has a short circuit or something[b] And that&39s the ONLY door doing this
QUOTE (dejan Sep 4 2009 1208 PM) Quote Yes. Temporary solution is that I click twice on remote but...I would like to solve this problem somehow.[b] OK that&39s weird. Normally relays power each side so there is a pair of relays controlling the driver side and another for the passenger and so if there was a bad relay you&39d see both doors on either one side or the other go bad. This sounds possibly
It will tell me they dont fit because theyre not 6x8 components... Im trying to do a custom install on these with fabricated plates. I just want to make sure before I go in that there is enough room in the door panel for the depth of speaker. If no one knows I guess Ill just have to pull the door panel and measure I was just hoping someone had already been through this and could share the info...
with some effort you can get some pretty deep components into the doors. Since the brand is kenwood Id imagine they wouldnt make a driver so deep it wouldnt fit in the majority of car doors and mazda isnt known for having the shallowest doors (like the wrx for example). If you are under 3 you should be just fine with whatever effort needs to be taken to get them in there. Under 2.5 itll be a no brainer.
You can always install new rubber door seals. I have found on my car for some reason people have a tendancy to slam the fron door but not the rear. I believe the front doors are lighter on the 6 than theyare on other cars therefore ppl are use to using certain force to close a door and that force is not required on our car.
Throw some masking tape across the door seam just below the window area connecting the two doors keeping the tape parallel to the body line. With something sharp cut the tape separating the two doors. Kneel at eye level and slowly open the door watching to see if the front door drops in relation to the tape line. If it drops while leaving the striker adjustments may be required. Confirm bolts are tight securing the latch in the door. Confirm the door fits the hole i.e.. Mainly the gaps in the vertical direction are even up and down the door at both the fender and the rear door. Taking note if the body line is perfect from fender to door and from door to rear door. What you need to know is this If the striker post on the body is lifting the door when it being shut AND making the body line too high at the back move the striker down on the body. If the body line is low when closed it could the hinges are worn or the door needs moved up. The point being the striker contact should NOT pull the door up or force it down. Next is the depth. If the rear edge of the door is sunken below the rear door the striker is too deep and pulling the door in too far. it need to be moved out. Other issues are door tilt worn latches and worn hinges. Observation of how good door fit and how many variables there are will shed light on what is wrong. Sometimes its just greasing the latch. Other times the door and striker need adjustment. After market seals may not meet spec (being too thick or too thin) as well as improper body repairs. Cars that have been jumped over ditches usually drop the doors so the body lines are messed up as the NOSE was driven up. Same is true with collisions. Smashing into objects often times drops the doors down in the rear as the pillar area is driven back. Slowly open an close all the doors feeling how they fit what contacts when and watching the body line. Over time you get a feel for what causes what. Also try it with a window down or hatch open. Cabin pressure changes how doors close as do some vent settings. Leaving internal vents open in the cab allows the doors to close easier. JJD952
What I didnt say (if you can believe that) improper repairs after accidents are the 1 cause of doors not fitting right. Followed by worn and damaged parts. Mr.Smoke might wanna move this to the Models Trim as its not specific to the V6.
FWIW mine also has a clean car fax however - both front and rear bumper covers have been repainted at a sub par level. i knoew this when I bought it. These are all things you can do in the drive way. if you have a second car go play with the doors on it too. PS - do it with windows closed and windows open. it makes a difference in cabin pressure.
the hardest part for me was actually fishing the wires from under the dash and into the molex. you first have to pop the molex out of its place - there are 4 clips that you can use a flathead to unclip - they are the top and bottom 2 each side just off center. you have to pry the white molex out enough to access the clips then just push the flathead in and pry it out. i used a rag around the flathead to avoid scratching so take care here. i then used a really long plastic zip tie and just pushed it through the outside edge of the molex and into the car until i managed to poke through into the car then hook the wires and pull it back through. there are some grooves in the outer edges of the molex which you can run the wires through. i had a pretty thick group of wires and they fit. you then route the wires through the rubber wire canal and onto the door panel. the passanger side is way easy - just remove the glove compartment and molex piece like above. its easy to see where the wires run. here is a link that helped me ton. you have to read through some stuff but there are some good pics. httpforum.mazda6club.comindex.phpshow...33&hlmolex
Dude take your wire the the driver&39s side. Trust me. You will not get through that easily on the pass there is too much AC equip there. As for the doors I ran 14ga into my doors I went through the OEM molex connectors I found in each conn there was a space of 4 pins that were empty and I drilled through them. And the outer skin you can lock the window in place by jamming a small sliver of MDF in each window track to hold it up without causeing any damage.
This is evidence of why I should ask questions before I do things. I ran the wires on friday and zip tied everything perfectly so now I have to redo it all...boo. Anyway how do I unlatch the door handle That&39s what really held me up in my door deadening mission.
Pull up on the post that the lock and handle mount to this will pop them off as an assembly and the cables that run into the door will then be easily removed. Then just pull the wires off of the skin unbolt the window motor and the window track unscrew the screw towards the back of the door that attaches to a relay or something (not totally sure what it is) and it should then come off. I&39d say tape
Quote Originally posted by DaveRulz May 30 2005 0837 PM Pull up on the post that the lock and handle mount to this will pop them off as an assembly and the cables that run into the door will then be easily removed. Then just pull the wires off of the skin unbolt the window motor and the window track unscrew the screw towards the back of the door that attaches to a relay or something (not totally sure
Its on the sail panel in the front corner of the door. If you look at your outside mirror trim it follows the location of the trim that fits against the door (triangular shape).
just above the fuse block I removed. 4. Again I fished the wire through the plug on the outside into the cabin with a small hook on it. Then from the inside I used another small fish wire to reach up the hole by the fuse block to hook the wire I had slipped through the plug already. I then pulled it on far enough to again hook my speaker wires to it and then gently pulled it out of the cabin. 5.
so you guys ran wires from amp to door I&39m thinking of doing this cause the rear doors aren&39t worth spit stock right now...
heheh I should remove my door boots and post pics of what I had to do to get my speaker wire through the door when I did my install. The wire I used was 14 awg twisted pair and had an outer shielding layer that made it equivalent to 8 awg. To get it to fit through the door connectors I had to drill them out.... talk about tense moments when you are drilling just mm&39s away from all of your door wiring.
Quote Originally posted by PhatalOne Apr 3 2005 0821 AM heheh I should remove my door boots and post pics of what I had to do to get my speaker wire through the door when I did my install. The wire I used was 14 awg twisted pair and had an outer shielding layer that made it equivalent to 8 awg. To get it to fit through the door connectors I had to drill them out.... talk about tense moments when you
door rattles with the Bose system are common since the door speakers are full range and the panels themselves are very thin and relatively light to other door panels Ive worked with. Get some Dynamat like soulbelly said. Also if you wanted to try some liquid sound deadner Fat Mat liquid sound is a good choice as it can be brushed onto the back of the door panel. Ive used it mainly on trunktaillight
So is dynamat an insulating pad that you install on the inside of the door Ive been having the same problem with my right front door on my Bose equipped M6. Where is a good place to pick some up where exactly should I install it and how much do I need Thanks MXDan
Buy Fatmat instead works the same way Dynamat does its the same type of material and its cheaper. Although you can really only get Fatmat online ( www.fatmat.com ) it still beats having to pay extra for the Dynamat name. Both Dynamat and Fatmat sell door kits. I think they are for two doors. I just buy mine stuff in bulk because I am putting it all over my car and that way I save a bit of money. for
I do have component (Kicker) speakers. I guess I will just change out the tweeters. How are Infinity tweeters[b] I&39m using 4ohm Infinity Refrence 6010CS components up front and 6802cf coaxials in the rear with my otherwise stock Bose system. Vast improvement over the stock Bose speakers. They&39re a little less efficient so I listen at a slightly higher volume level (ex. vol setting of 18 vs 15)
Look up the wiring diagram for your particular headunit (year bosenonbose) and tap the LOC into those four wires (front Left and - and front Right and -). I did it by taking my headunit out as well as the glovebox put my LOC behind the glovebox extended the wires coming from the LOC and tapped the ends of those wires into the respective wires of the HU&39s harness.
The easiest place to tap into the speaker wires is probably behind the HU. You could try to pick out the speaker wires just before they enter the doors but that would be challenging because there are so many wires and they are packed together tight. If you want to also bypass the stock 18 or 20 guage speaker wiring inside the door thats harder. You cant just feed extra wiring into the door because
if you&39re using only the speaker pack put it over the factory speaker location. then cut out the opening like you&39re carving up a pie. wrap the slices around to the inside of the door. be sure to thoroughly clean the surface for install. i use electronics cleaner but you could also use rubbing alcohol. use a roller as well they cost 5 but are worth the expense.
Quote if you&39re using only the speaker pack put it over the factory speaker location. then cut out the opening like you&39re carving up a pie. wrap the slices around to the inside of the door. be sure to thoroughly clean the surface for install. i use electronics cleaner but you could also use rubbing alcohol. use a roller as well they cost 5 but are worth the expense.[b] MK I have the door kit that
LOL say to replace the plastic factory weather guard curtain. Where does it end Whats the best placement. This was purchased to enhance the component speaker install that I plan to do at the same time. I do not notice road noise. 2006 model. Its seems very quiet now. Thanks for your insight and experience. Kramer[b] After completing the install I see that the DYNAMAT door kit is a big waste of 35
Interesting. Not tryin to thread jack but why hasnt anyone replicated the front side flares like the ones in japan I would buy these in a heartbeat if some1 would make them. These you wont have to worry about tearing them off. Im gonna make these this summer if no one beats me to it
QUOTE (Qwik6 May 5 2009 0742 PM) Quote Interesting. Not tryin to thread jack but why hasnt anyone replicated the front side flares like the ones in japan I would buy these in a heartbeat if some1 would make them. These you wont have to worry about tearing them off. Im gonna make these this summer if no one beats me to it [b] are you talking about the mztune ones....I&39d be all over that if someone made affordable replicas
way he wouldn&39t have to spend the money on an original CF set or waste time waiting for them to get in. I know he&39s got a couple big projects ahead of him right now but if there&39s enough real interest he may get started on these relatively soon (by his timeframe lol). SSXES try to get a numbered interest list together. The more organized we are the better QUOTE (Baseballd2 May 6 2009 1225
thanks can&39t wait to get the alpines installed in the front. I was going to split the power going to the fronts and reroute to the rears so that i&39d get full range on them but from what I&39ve heard the way the speaker setup should be is best at the front and use the rears as fillers so I don&39t think i&39ll bother anymore.