I performed this brake service on my Rogue and our mazda3 this weekend it was very easy even easier than the description implies. On my Rogue I didnt actually remove the pads though because I only have 15000 km on the vehicle and everything looked brand new and clean. I just checked the pins (which looked brand new and fairly lubricated still) lubed them and reassembled - very quick and easy. To be
is nothing more than widening the slot in the pad with a file. I used an air powered file but a hand file will work just fine. When I did mine I filed and checked and filed and checked till one fit properly then I filed the others to match. You should probaly do this before hand since you will already have the proper measurement. I removed just over 1mm of metal and ended up with a .457
Flip the article has the basics but it skips some items such as putting some lube on the ears of the pads where they sit and slide on the mounting bracket as well as lubing the rubber seals on the caliper pins points of rotation etc. You may also want to consider using some brake pad adhesive between the backing plates and pads. In addition if your braking surface looks like that in the pictures consider
My friend and me both with a 2006 hatch 6i we also have issues with my rear left caliper. I had to replace rear pads because of uneven wear. After pushing the car hard on the highway and jump on brakes in exits the rear wheel is too hot to keep fingers on it and you can feel thousands watts of heat coming out from there. So I replaced the pads (45000Km with EBC Greenstuff) lube everything and ensure
Thanks guys. I guess Ill just replace the brake pads on both sides of the car and make sure the calipers are well lubed. Ive read that I should also replace the front pads at the same time. Sounds wasteful to me considering that theyre only worn about 40%. I think Ill skip that recommendation. And I feel unconfortable putting new pads on an old disc that has a little ridge at the edge. Im thinking of getting the discs turned (thats the right term - right). thanks again for the feedback.
emii_rei I&39m going that route with the brush bought the Duplicolor caliper Paint with Ceramic Kit ..... won&39t have to worry about fuming the car if winds get a hold of the spray nanik006 as mentioned above with my kit I actually bought a Red one for the calipers and a Satin Black one to do my rotorsdiscs as I hate to see that rust permanently where the pads don&39t contact I&39ll also be
QUOTE Quote Why compression upfront and twist in the rear[b] Why ask why Just buy it and add it to your tool collection. QUOTE (Hurricane_sr Nov 5 2008 1032 PM) Quote Rear pistons are like a screw that adjust themself as the pads wear progress in order to stay balanced with the front brakes. Piston turn outward with time and stop rotation when the pin on the rear pad meet a hole of the piston. No
that thing should work you can even use needle nose pliers you just need to turn those pistons but i personally have this only 39 dollars. 18 Piece disc brake pad and caliper Service Tool Kit
QUOTE (zokissima Nov 3 2008 0932 AM) Quote Can you elaborate on what you mean by turning the caliper in vs compressing it[b] Most rear disc brake setups require that the caliper piston is turned as it is compressed. I believe this is due to the way the parking brake mechanism functions. Sometimes one can get away with using a screwdriver to accomplish the job but a caliper tool set makes things much easier.
QUOTE (dawei213 Nov 4 2008 0815 AM) Quote For the rear caliper go to pepboys or autozone and rent a brake caliper piston tool to help you compress the rear piston. Using the needle nose pliers and just too damn difficult. You&39ll save yourself a lot of time an agony by using the right tools.[b] You can use a brake caliper block that can be easily had for cheap. Usually around 12. Make sure to get
have time browse some of my topics in the Australian Regional Section. Any way here is my how to guide to caliper painting and a associated link with full step by step photos. .................................................. ............................................. EXTRACT COPY Marco has asked me to write down some instructions (a guide) on how to remove clean prepare paint and refit your mazda
accomplish something on the cheap its doubtful you&39d be able to spend the necessary money to properly engineer any brake system swap that wasn&39t made available to you as a complete tested bolt-in kit. Those cost money and you&39re not paying just for the parts but the research and testing (hopefully) that someone did to ensure the whole brake system worked properly when finished. The stock mazda6
QUOTE (hteb Aug 30 2008 0654 PM) Quote DennisW - it is all about the fadding. Stock brakes are good for 2-3 full 100mph-0 - then it is just bad. I own second car which look & perform It was just a question - At first I wanted to check it onboard - Any suggestions from You mazda6club members is important for me as in Poland where I live people have no experience with 6s and come to my car as a BAD
Here&39s all the threads involving the TCE Big brake kit. For those curious about the TCE brake kit. Here&39s some threadspostsdiscussionlinkswebbasedgoodness. The Kit Itself httptceperformanceproducts.combk_mazda6.html Photos of the kit 13.0 x 1.10 front Rotor w FSL calipers Stock Comparison 11.1 x 1.0 front Rotor w Lame Ford front caliper TCE has a variety of options for their rotors...from fancy
Quote So I have a 2003 mazda6i with 103000 miles on it. Figured it was time for a brake job. Ordered some Centric rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. Good price and easy DIY job right Well this has turned into the brake job from hell particularly since it is my only car. Step one get the wheels off. After much beating with a 4x4 I got all the wheels off. Next up rotors. I quickly realize I&39m
First read this httpforum.mazda6club.comindex.phpshowtopic34316 If you don&39t decide to simply return the rotors and get some good blank rotors here goes. From memory Loosen your lugnuts just a bit. Jack up the car and put on jack stands Remove the lugnuts completely and take off the wheels On all 4 rotors you&39ll see screws holding on the rotors. There are a number of ways to attempt to remove them.
Racer They are very easy removing them is a breeze taking off your tire will take longer than taking off your calipers. There are 2 bolts holding the front calipers on. After that there will be a single brake line that is also bolted to the caliper. Once you get the caliper undone from the line and the mount you will need to slip a screwdriver in the top of the caliper to press apart the pads. Lean
the rotors to a machine shop for re-surfacing then wait for them to do the machining and then putting them back on. You can just take the old ones off and slap the new ones on. Takes very little additional time. The one issue however is that factory brake rotors may be expensive and it will likely take a while for aftermarket discs to become available for the 6. (Unless the car uses existing mazda
QUOTE (DennisW Jun 24 2008 0534 PM) Quote The 2006 and newer cars have bigger brakes most likely because there were some weaknesses discovered in the earlier models.[b] Possibly. But my guess it had to do with standardizing on a single rotor and caliper for the mazda3 Mazad6 Volvo 4050 Ford FusionMercury Milan Lincoln MKZ and Ford Edge. QUOTE (DennisW Jun 24 2008 0534 PM) Quote I&39ll disagree with
i never use those steps either no worries just allows for easier movement of the caliper. there are literally a billion things that can cause squeal....so it&39s hard to narrow down. step one find a way you can easily repeatedly create the sound. now do that over and over again with someone OUTSIDE the car have them jog next to it (or you can while they drive) and listen....find out EXACTLY where the
over the rotor. Quote Originally Posted by q-ball just did my fronts. got my parts from car quest 95 for both rotors and 55 for the pads rears are about the same cost wise. you will need a jack breaker for the lugs 14mm i believe and a 17 or 19mm also...and a torque wrench and a c-clamp to compress the pistons Definitely have a LARGE c-clamp on hand. I went to change the front pads on the wifes mazda
Quote hmm. interesting. so slotted is the way to go then[b] if you&39re choosing between slotted and drilled yes. But frankly for street driving spirited or not blank rotors are fine. Good pads some high performance fluid (do NOT get talked into Silicone fluid) steel lines if you want a firmer pedal are a starting point. Next step would be getting some fresh air to the front brakes. After that maybe
done anything like this before. The second one only took 10 minutes or so (Jacking to lowering). I was a little concerned with getting the pistons reseated properly before I went and did this but everything was really quite straight- forward. 1. Remove wheel. 2. Remove clamp. it appears as if you only need to remove this clamp if 3. Remove caliper. 4. Remove pads. Including that spring thing. 5.
Replacing the rear pads is pretty much the same as replacing the fronts...except you cant push back the caliper piston with a c clamp it screws in. I learned that the hard way (my first vehicle with rear disc brakes). You can buyrent the tool at autozone i opted for a 34 (at least i think it was) wrench and a screwdriver it worked well. I used the open end in the cutouts on the piston and put the screwdriver in the closed end for a turning handle. Shawn
QUOTE (seigfredm May 27 2009 0726 PM) Quote You have a 2006. Why not just have it resurfaced.[b] Thanks for the reply. Any idea how much it typically costs to resurface rotors or what the minimum recommended thickness is QUOTE (armyets2003 May 27 2009 1102 PM) Quote Replacing the rear pads is pretty much the same as replacing the fronts...except you cant push back the caliper piston with a c clamp
QUOTE (skiracer May 28 2009 0638 PM) Quote I wouldn&39t have guessed the rear caliper pistons screw in since the fronts don&39t. I will probably head over to Autozone to pick up a tool just to be sure I&39m prepared.[b] This is common to most cars with rear disc brakes that integrate the parking brake mechanism with the hydraulic caliper. Here&39s another inexpensive option that works pretty well httpwww.harborfreight.comcpictafdisp...temnumber40732
Quote new suspension is not here yet. the symptoms were a very very spongy pedal ( able to push to floor) but after repeated pumps it would be kinda firm for like a half second before giving in again. ive looked all over the car for leaks watched the fluid for dropage... nothing.. i just swapped the fluid again and i still have the same problem. i bled them in the proper fashon swapped back to the
Ill try to answer some questions for everyone. First the MC. Ive tried to find the factory spec on this but even without it I believe its 1516 For this reason I may or may not offer the six piston upgrade. There are three reasons first the added displacement of the fluid may well tax the mc this results in a lower pedal and a softer one. Along with these issues come a higher pressure with modest increase
Does the sound go away or get worse when you apply the brakes To check if it is an axle issue you can go to a parking lot from a dead stop crank the wheel all the way to one side and go in REVERSE and listen for a click click click noise. Do that in both directions. If no clicking Axles are most likely OK. Could be a caliper or pair of calipers that are not releasing and the pads are rubbing on the
Oh sorry an MOT is an anually safety check that every car must have done to ensure it is safe for the road. The bushes are part of this check. Dad is normally pretty good at sorting my car problems so hopefully he will do the same this time. The steering feels ok most of the time when driving just sort of knocks when coming to a stop and then pulling away or hitting a bump it does feel like a similar
Quote Originally Posted by Nick 1984 Oh sorry an MOT is an anually safety check that every car must have done to ensure it is safe for the road. The bushes are part of this check. Dad is normally pretty good at sorting my car problems so hopefully he will do the same this time. The steering feels ok most of the time when driving just sort of knocks when coming to a stop and then pulling away or hitting
else that is different from front rotorbrake installation[b] The caliper pistons need to be rotated instead of just straight compressed. I recommend a tool set like this for the job. Some people get away with pliers but the correct tool means you are less likely to slip and damage the dust boot. QUOTE (Vani Jul 22 2009 1241 PM) Quote Pics andor write-ups would be great.[b] The old how-to from mazda6Tech
Quote At work so time is limited for searches Pep Boys tells me both my rotors are beyond turning (only 29K never hard them turned before Thanks Mazada for the cheap hit parts) By the time its all said and done (I have a discount couponfor PB) it would cost me about 340 for two new rotors and ceramic pads. Buying stock rotors and doing it myself won&39t fly as Star auto and Auto Zone come up with rotors
Quote OK I&39m about to loose my freakin mind looking for brakes and rotors for m 6. At first I was looking at drilled and slotted rotors but then I read an article on here and it was said that drilled and slotted rotors breed cracks and are not as strong as regular rotors. So I was gonna just go with slotted and some descent pads. Can someone help me out here I have looked at different sites and totally
I had this exact problem with a Peugeot 406 a while back. Over a period of 3 years I took it back to the dealer and all they did was replace the discs (sorry rotors) and pads. I had about 6 sets of front discs (sorry rotors) altogether. They never ever took the time to find out what was causing the warping despite my insistance. As a result I got well pissed off with them and took it to a little family
Quote Has anyone seenused these I warped the crap out of my rotors and I need some new ones. I searched around and found these and I like &39em. Any opinionsa hrefhttpwww.placeforbrakes.comproduct.phppk1644&cmk30649&car_year2005&avail 1 target_blank a httpwww.placeforbrakes.comproduct.php...005&avail1 Manufactured using premium disc blanks mentioned above the narrower multi slot design of the Ultimax
QUOTE (tweiss3 Jul 12 2008 0948 PM) Quote Well i recently had squeaking coming from the front. I decided to take apart the front brakes and clean things up. I discovered the right front pads were atelast half there (maybe 34ths there) and the left front pads almost non-existent. Now i checked the calipers and neither was bound up and were able to be pressed open easily with a C-Clamp. Does anyone
So my 06 6s ATX had it&39s passenger side caliper replaced within the first 90 days at the selling dealer (what a joke) only to have both front rotors and pads replaced at about 13k for the same odd wear. Now 20 K later my pads are almost gone WTF is up with that but I&39ll start a new discussion for that. All I wanted to say was that I had the same issue.
QUOTE (mtosofsky Aug 13 2009 0603 PM) Quote honestly i just hate the ugliness of the rust spots. and the drilled rotors look nice but i wont need them that much because my car seems to break really nicely anyway. i just want to get rid of the nasty rust spots using a technique at home[b] bro you mean the rust spots on the centre hub don&39t you Not where the actual pads make contact. If you are talking
well I know for a fact that i&39m the only one who has run more than one of these systems on the 6 so i&39ll give my feedback. Rotora First thing Rotora does NOT use a floating system it&39s 2 piece but not floating. i&39ll look through some of my old info for weight but it obviouisly sheds some weight being two peice so there are still benefits to it. I think the Rotora kit has the best clearance
look of the slottedsimulated drilled but I&39m still a little weary of what they look like when the rotors begin warp from normal use. I finally ordered new rotors today too. I got the Rotora OEM replacement rotors. I almost went with stock again since I don&39t want slotted or drilled. On a last second whim I checked RPM and noticed they had 20 off a complete set of rotors. The cost ended up 250
Whatever you do do not get EBC Greenstuff. I have SS brakes w 13inch rotors and 4piston calipers (custom made) on my front end. They came w EBC Greenstuff however EBC is not announcing that it is discounting them so dont buy. They suck they squeek so much. So the company is sending me new pads free of charge. Stay away from Greenstuff and Redstuff.