Sorry not familiar with kiatechinfo.com but the cd info is very extensive with 13 different chapters &9702Air Bag Deactivation &9702Basic Troubleshooting &9702Brakes &9702Check Lists &9702Computer Relearn &9702Drive Axle Niose Diagnosis &9702Drive Cycles &9702Electrical &9702Electrostatic Discharge Warning &9702Engine Overhual Procedures &9702Engine Performance Diagnostic Routine &9702Engine Performance
When in doubt if it is available I check my owner&39s manual. That should tell about the correct use of the auto trans. Used to be that the old slush boxes would barely get 80K so had to be treated with real care (I&39m taling the big US built cars of pre and earl disc brake days (crummy stopping power too). However a long downgrade will over tax most brakes and a lower gear is usually recommended
Quote Originally Posted by hystat Dextron 3 and ATF3 are two completely different things. Hyundai and kia specify ATF3 and I drove my 99 Sonata well over 300000km on ATF3 from Canadian Tire. Transmission was starting to go when I sold it at about 322K but I think it was a sensor not a slipping clutch. Dextron 3 will result in eventual transmission failure in these chrysler transmissions. Probably
I dont have any problems with it sticking but I prefer not to use it. Like kiaH said it is way too slow to respond to upshift commands. Fluid may help to some degree but personally I wouldnt mess with it. In the old days we would run Type F and redo the valve body to make the clutches lock up quicker. No way I would try that now with these high tech modern trannies. Electronic reprogramming is the
Thanks for the input. I need a new clutch badly but I am trying to find the best possible clutch for the cheapest price possible. I see some really cheap clutches on ebay a Valeo clutch for 150 and a Brute Power clutch for 114 and I want to get one but i dont know if they are any good. Does anyone know if these are good clutch kits
Sad thing is I just replaced my clutch and flywheel last year Its bullsh that it had to happen again so soon. Its my belief that it is the mechanics fault. I told my mechanic that as soon as it was repaired that it felt stiff and they said it was nothing and that it would go away in time. It never did. It has always shifted terribly and it would get stuck in gears all the time. Now it has gone to sh.
Your description is of a BAD pressure plate. It doesnt go overcenter and causes lots of problems. My last experience with that problem was with a LUK kit in a Honda Civic. I had to do the job over when it BROKE the pedal box I have too many bad experiences buying clutches from chain discount stores. Ill recommend Exedy. The parts have been VERY good quality on the ones Ive unboxed. -SP Quote Originally
Im new to fixing or troubleshooting clutches but my first car was clutch and I never had a problem. I bought this car knowing the clutch was about to go. And this car comes with a dual mass flywheel straight from the manufacturer. And even though I can move the shifter into gear the tranny itself is not shifting any gears its stuck on nuetral it seems
Quote Originally Posted by alejandro Im new to fixing or troubleshooting clutches but my first car was clutch and I never had a problem. I bought this car knowing the clutch was about to go. And this car comes with a dual mass flywheel straight from the manufacturer. And even though I can move the shifter into gear the tranny itself is not shifting any gears its stuck on nuetral it seems Your flywheel
Quote Originally Posted by buruko Other than outer trim (body kit) few exterior bits (HIDs and tail lights) and the shifter paddles they are exact same car. Here in Atlanta the kiausa.com site says the price difference is 500 between a EX T w Tech & Premium vs SX w Tech & Premium packages so I dunno why an SX isnt desired if a EX T isnt available... The SX also has bigger front brakes inside the 18
I cant see a torn air hose causing a shift flair. Did you disconnect the battery as per the instructions I would try the re-learn procedure again and see if the problem persists. If it still flairs a little bit drive it for a week and see if it gets worse. When the sensors were damaged and the transmission was not shifting properly there is a chance that one or more of the clutches or synchronizers were damaged. If thats the case live with the shift flair and get used to having overdrive again.
Yeah I would say that the Manual Sonata is one of the more difficult cars to drive smoothly out of all the manual cars Ive driven. My roomate has a 2011 manual Sonata. The power delivery of the 2.4L engine makes it difficult. It just seems like its hard to modulate the throttle to control the RPMs of the engine to achieve smooth shifts. Even my roomate says its a pain in the butt and he has a hard
I doubt that gear changes will be as slow as 1 second. What happens if you accelerate hard Does that liven up the gear changes Gear changes even in manual mode will not be super fast since its a conventional epicyclic auto. The various gear trains are activated by clamping mechanisms usually called bands or clutches and these are controlled by an electronic logic system. My experience with the new
Quote Originally Posted by Dr Bob I doubt that gear changes will be as slow as 1 second. What happens if you accelerate hard Does that liven up the gear changes Gear changes even in manual mode will not be super fast since its a conventional epicyclic auto. The various gear trains are activated by clamping mechanisms usually called bands or clutches and these are controlled by an electronic logic system.