Your description is of a BAD pressure plate. It doesnt go overcenter and causes lots of problems. My last experience with that problem was with a LUK kit in a Honda Civic. I had to do the job over when it BROKE the pedal box I have too many bad experiences buying clutches from chain discount stores. Ill recommend Exedy. The parts have been VERY good quality on the ones Ive unboxed. -SP Quote Originally
It is quite an undertaking especially without a lift. You can do it two ways 1- leave the steering gear on the subframe but disconnect the lines or 2- leave the steering gear in the car. I usually leave it in the car. I use a bungee cord on each side to hang the steering gear from the front springs. It keeps it up and out of the way.
I have a 2004 Optima and I have the same problem. When its hot outside the clutch starts to progressively stick to the floor. I have two possible theories but still havent figure out whats wrong 1- problem with the clutch master cylinder that loose pressure when the oil inside the circuit get hot and changes viscosity. When the temperature become lower the pedal comes to normal behaviour. 2- problem
Sorry not familiar with kiatechinfo.com but the cd info is very extensive with 13 different chapters &9702Air Bag Deactivation &9702Basic Troubleshooting &9702Brakes &9702Check Lists &9702Computer Relearn &9702Drive Axle Niose Diagnosis &9702Drive Cycles &9702Electrical &9702Electrostatic discharge Warning &9702Engine Overhual Procedures &9702Engine Performance Diagnostic Routine &9702Engine Performance
Got to find out if electrical or the gas has been lost. Loss that quickly would indicate electrical although I have seen systems loose their charge rapidly. Best why to check is to put gauges on the system and as they are installed it would give an indication of the pressure as some gas is released when the shraeder valves are pressed. I call it a pressure switch but kia refers to it as an AC Transducer
subframe about a year ago in order to do the clutchflywheel we followed the exact same procedure. We didnt have the steering wheel spot-on although it wasnt 180 out or anything like that. When I drove the car after we installed the rack it was also turned a bit to the left..almost with the right horizontal size of the wheel (cruise control buttons) at the 4-5 o clock position. I had taken the kia
When in doubt if it is available I check my owner&39s manual. That should tell about the correct use of the auto trans. Used to be that the old slush boxes would barely get 80K so had to be treated with real care (I&39m taling the big US built cars of pre and earl disc brake days (crummy stopping power too). However a long downgrade will over tax most brakes and a lower gear is usually recommended
Transmission. When you depress the clutch the throwout bearing and pilot bearing starts turning so you can eliminate those parts but as the clutch disc stops turing so does the transmission main shaft and therefore all internal parts of the trans. Let the pedal up and the transmission starts turning once again. Make certain the fluid level is correct.
Update they hooked up the clutch switch and adjusted the angle of the steering column switch so it wasnt sticking down so far. Now it properly feels like my LX has cruise control and Im enjoying it. I cant see the switch while driving nor the indicator LED but who looks at those things anyway My only remaining complaint is what the service guy at the kia dealer said when I went to pick up the car.
Quote Originally Posted by OptimaDream Update they hooked up the clutch switch and adjusted the angle of the steering column switch so it wasnt sticking down so far. Now it properly feels like my LX has cruise control and Im enjoying it. I cant see the switch while driving nor the indicator LED but who looks at those things anyway My only remaining complaint is what the service guy at the kia dealer
I cant see a torn air hose causing a shift flair. Did you disconnect the battery as per the instructions I would try the re-learn procedure again and see if the problem persists. If it still flairs a little bit drive it for a week and see if it gets worse. When the sensors were damaged and the transmission was not shifting properly there is a chance that one or more of the clutches or synchronizers were damaged. If thats the case live with the shift flair and get used to having overdrive again.
In the wrong forum. Try this 1G2G (2001-2006) magentis & Optima - kia Forum Your second thought is possible but that is a lot of metal fatigue from heat. The first thought the oil is essentially brake fluid that does not change viscosity from temp change. This is by design. After all stopping is done by heat friction. I suspect you master cylinder is on the way out. Also check the slave cylinder for
Quote Originally Posted by Arctic I think if I do this to this SX the car will be dead in two years But in those 2 years you will still be under warranty Since were off topic and on to the subject of previous cars... My favorite was my 97 Nissan 200SX SE-R. Loved that car but I had it modded and I needed something different something more grown up. Didnt want to sell it to just anyone either so I sold
Quote Originally Posted by metros11 But in those 2 years you will still be under warranty Since were off topic and on to the subject of previous cars... My favorite was my 97 Nissan 200SX SE-R. Loved that car but I had it modded and I needed something different something more grown up. Didnt want to sell it to just anyone either so I sold it to my brother for a deep discount. Six years later the car