So much easier than my 2004.
I have to say of all the KJ things you could make a how-to video about removing the grille on an 05-07 would seem the least necessary
was thinking of putting more fog or driving lights there.
Well thats not the area I am referring to but that jeep does have 4 vertical bars in the aforementioned section that looks nice. Did certain model years get something different
Quote Originally Posted by corpulent Well thats not the area I am referring to but that jeep does have 4 vertical bars in the aforementioned section that looks nice. Did certain model years get something different The 04s have nothing down where the bars should be. Its totally open
Im actually looking to do the same thing. Put a 20 single LED Bar down there. Itll be somewhat hidden and keep the overall look of the front clean. On my 2004 Limited there is about a 2 inch gap between the lower radiator and chrome fascia that I eyed as a potential. Any thoughts
I replaced the radiator a few times in my jeep Grand cherokee with 4.0L. If you have lots of patience its not that hard. Raise your jeep with either car ramps or jack stands. Make sure that it is safe to 1) Remove the front bumpergrille. You will need an electric drill to remove the plastic rivets. You will need to buy new plastic rivets from Harbor Freight Tools (if you dont have plastic rivet gun
Just finished using the PRESTONE Super radiator Flush (2-bottles for 12-quarts and above) in our 2001 jeep cherokee. Took a long time to get system emptied -- running clear with distilled water -- (jeep radiator tank  is plastic with lousy plastic draincock assembly difficult to get to without a sidewinder ratchet went and bought one as book says to remove entire front grille assembly) -- added
once i got through here i fed it into the front grill area through a hole near the headlight i then ran it across the front of the car and hooked it up to everything else Here is the finished product I will get some good daylight pics tomorrow and add them to the thread overall cost - around 60 hope everyone enjoyed the thread. Totally cool. May I be so bold to suggest your next mod... httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf13z...t-mod-1321764
the negative battery terminal (deep 12mm socket) 2)Remove the 3 plastic rivets from each fender well that attach the fascia to the splash shield 3)Remove the 10mm (use a deep socket) screw from each fender well that attaches the fascia to the fender 4)Unhook the fog light wiring harness (one on each side) a.OPTIONAL replace stock 9055 bulbs with 9005 bulbs (see links below) b. httpwww.wjjeeps.comlampslampsupgrade.htmFOG
tite spot. In that case lower rad hose works fine. Can still make a mess though. I changed radiators. The replacement petcock seems easier to operate. Still have to take the grille out. Anyway dont let any of these things drive you nuts. Treat them as challanges. Try to think of a way to get them done. Look for different solutions to the problem. Theres always a way. If all else fails I ask my jeep
I just replaced the leaking radiator in a 97 ZJ. The condenser and radiator were stuck together with a foam strip on each side. I used a long slender stick to help separate them. I did not remove the fan or fan shroud but it might might have been easier to do that as there would have been more room to access the trans lines and bottom hose. You will need to remove the grille to access two of the cover
Quote Originally Posted by Nejeep I just replaced the leaking radiator in a 97 ZJ. The condenser and radiator were stuck together with a foam strip on each side. I used a long slender stick to help separate them. I did not remove the fan or fan shroud but it might might have been easier to do that as there would have been more room to access the trans lines and bottom hose. You will need to remove
Quote Originally Posted by mason_msw I had the RAM guard it was pretty sturdy I have no idea how it would hold up to a deer though. The only thing I ever did with it was push my friends TJ around once lol. Have you considered this bumper I dont know much about it but the price is comparable and it looks pretty nice. Not sure how well the 11 gauge would stand up to a deer either though. Just throwing it out there. Hey Mason thanks for the tip. That is a solid looking bumper. That price is about the same as the one Ive got coming from Ebay. My objective is to try and increase my survivability when I have to drive thru deer country. I think those deer are beautiful creatures but they sure can be stuuuupid. You look right at them they look right at you... and then they jump right in your way at 50mph or more. WHam. Im told by experienced vehicular deer hunters (haha) that a grille guard might not totally eliminate all damage but it should reduce it -- save your radiator and headlights and make the difference between getting home that night or getting to spend the cold night out there with your fresh roadkill . Funny thing is Im not a hunter and I dont even have a rifle. But hey who needs the rifle... I just use the whole jeep
I cant say a lot about jeep foam yet but on my V12 Jag that foam is very important. Everything on the underside in front of the car is there to keep as much air as possible flowing through the radiator. When its done right all the air that enters the grille has to flow through the rad. On that Jag foam pipe insulation worked well around the rad. It had a viscous coupled fan like the jeeps. I pitched
i dont remember pulling the fan off to replace mine but i replaced the condenser at the same time. we were in a fender bender the ins co paid us then the ac went out no biggie then the radiator had a hairline crack a few months later. i pulled the grille and bumper cover out and did it all from the front as i recall. i also made it a point to bring my wife out when i had it all apart just to see the look on her face when her jeep had no face while she looked at the skeleton she almost cried.......
I have a 2000 WJ Laredo with two fans (electric and water pump fans) because of towing package. Its a 4.0L engine. If you have two fans (electric and water pump) it may be necessary for you to remove the bumper and grille. I have removed the radiator TWICE last month because I forgot to retighten the tranny line male fittings. Removing the bumpergrille isnt that hard but itll take you an extra time.
I forget exactly where I saw it but I came across this grille insert that went between the outide casing and the radiator itself. I think it was meant to add more bling bling but its honeycomb pattern would be useful for at lease deflecting some road debris. But then your shiney honeycomb grille thingy would just get all marred up.
First off does your factory engine temperature gauge show a normal temp reading ( temp needle in the middle) Also when in all honesty have you had your Liberty in a real shop to have the cooling system flushed and re-filled with the correct coolant (No I didnt read all the comments to this thread.) You can buy chrome grille trim incerts that restrict the air flow through the grille. That will help.
Quote Originally Posted by berlinetta no drain caulk either. is that stock or did someone put a different radiator in there at some point Assuming that you mean drain petcock there should be one on the lower right side of the radiator. You need to remove the grille in order to gain good access to it.
Quote Originally Posted by tangofox007 Assuming that you mean drain petcock there should be one on the lower right side of the radiator. You need to remove the grille in order to gain good access to it. ya i just found it i think theres enough room underneath to get to it though.
Quote Originally Posted by Tkarner03 i changed my radiator about 2 weeks ago and didnt do anything with the hoses on the RH side. just make sure you got radiator completely loose and wiggle it out. thats how i got mine in and out and absolutely nothing is wrong or damaged Thanks for the reply. Does your Liberty have Aircon and Power steering ( I assume all have power steering). Im going to have to
Quote Originally Posted by AndyTee Thanks for the reply. Does your Liberty have Aircon and Power steering ( I assume all have power steering). Im going to have to take another look under the bonnet and check those hoses as I was sure they went into one of the end tanks on the radiator however the text below is taken from the shop manual (3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODYEX- TERIORgrille
Hey Kyle You and I are both in the market for grille guards. But under 100 Im not sure that would get very much... but then I think were looking for something a little different. I want a full width grille guard that covers the headlights. For this at first I found MANIX from TRUCKADDONS.com. That would have been a nice one at 560 delivered.. but they never could deliver it. 2 weeks turned into 4 and
i just had my radiator re-cored to have 3 rows (local radiator shop can do it for you) that way i dont have to worry about mounting problems etc. installed an electric fan with an auto-zone adjustable thermostat...keeps it cool. ive never had any problems. i installed a front mount fan (between radiator and grille) but you could use a fan that mounts on the rear (between radiator and engine). sorry i dont have any prices on this stuff been about 6-8 months sinse i did it. good luck
I had the same thing with my 92. The previous owner racked up 200K miles with no maint. Took me 2 weeks and 9 bottles of Prestone Heavy Duty flush to FINALLY clear it out. Here is what I did.. Remove grille so I could get to drain valve. Drain valve clogged. Remove bottom hose. Remove 34 heater hoses to heater core Flush heater core with GENTLE pressure. Do NOT use hose pressure as you will kill it.
I had my radiator leak at the exact same spot. Replaced it and it isnt leaking so far (1mo ago)...but Im still using a little bit of coolant (from full to add in about 2 days) which is either a coolant consumption issue from a cracked head or still cycling air out of the system. Are you sure its still leaking there or are you just missing coolant I would check the drain on the radiator and make sure
Quote Originally Posted by kadetklapp Socket set metric and standard. Standrd and phillips screwdrivers I think thats about it. What about the torx head bolts that attach the grille header to the radiator top support bracket On my 2000 those must be removed to remove the top support and the top support must be removed to removed the radiator.
His also has the closed rad. system where he has to check the fluid levels through the overflow bottle. Are you wanting to sell yours or were you just informing me of what the radiator system was like Does it have the small air conditioning condensor or whatever that is in fron of the radiator closest to the grille I will offer a fair amount if you are willing to sell and everything is there. Thanks XJBill
Quote Originally Posted by jonnycat Howdy Im trying to do a coolant flush on my 98XJ but the radiator drain is being a bit pesky. It seems the only way to get to it is by removing the passenger-side turn light (heres the pic) The problem is that I have to get behing that plastic nose (with the writing) to put a tool in the valve. (the valve is behind the opening which the picture doesnt really demonstrate).