Quote Originally Posted by LPW2 Where is the radiator drain plug for a 94 cherokee This is the 4 cyclinder model. It is supposedly on the left rear engine block but I cant see it. Does anyone have a diagram Thanks Dont mess with the drain plugs on the block heck I wouldnt even mess with the petcock on the radiator I would just use the lower radiator hose. Those petcocks are a beast to get to.
to make an extension. You can also see my new water pump in this photo. I felt like now was a good a time as any to replace it. Here is the new radiator (with radiator cap) in place. I found out that my upper radiator crossmember does not fit well with all the studs poking out of this radiator (shown) so I later pulled off the top piece off my old radiator and switched them. When I got my jeep
part 12 does come on the new radiator I know that because I just picked up a radiator recently. I think the part 6 might be a check valve not 100% sure. I just redid my entire trans lines on my 5.2L v8 and picked up all the transmission lines from napa. (around 105 for all the lines)
Unfortunately you are correct. There is no diagram other than whats in the FSM. Im not very skilled with electronics but looking at my FSM I think this is what the fuses go to in the junction block which is inside the jeep 1(25A) - aux power outlet 2(25A) - cigar lighter 3(10A) - left headlamp fog lamp relay 4(10A) - left headlamp 5(10A) - right headlamp daytime running lamp module 6(5A) - trans slector
Quote Originally Posted by EricsXJ Unfortunately you are correct. There is no diagram other than whats in the FSM. Im not very skilled with electronics but looking at my FSM I think this is what the fuses go to in the junction block which is inside the jeep 1(25A) - aux power outlet 2(25A) - cigar lighter 3(10A) - left headlamp fog lamp relay 4(10A) - left headlamp 5(10A) - right headlamp daytime running
because that seems to have caused you to overheat. BUT If I were you Cooling system overhaul time. Drain and fill twice or so to get some gunk out. New 2 or 3 core rad from radiatorbarn.com. New hoses (keep the spring for the lower hose when you get it off youll know what Im talking about) New WP and thermostat. -Make sure to get the t-stat housing gasket as well. Live happier knowing your jeep
Quote Originally Posted by dover21 My wife drives a 2004 KJ 3.7L and has been spewing coolant and smelling like burnt oil here lately. Shes going through both oil and coolant like theres no tomorrow. Ive been looking at it and her radiator fan isnt coming on either when the engines hot or when she has the AC turned on. Ive tried to see if power is going to the fan and it is. I put a circuit tester
The wires in the diesel diagram match whats in her gas powered. The fan does spin freely when I try it. The two wires that are on either side of the ground go to the two relays in the power center. I didnt measure voltage but theres power coming from the relays and going into the fan unit when I checked with the circuit tester. If the fan is fried I saw a couple on Rock Auto that didnt appear to be
Double check the part number on the Chryslerjeep rad you bought to make sure its the right one. For your 96 4.0 auto trans it should be OE 5202 8379. Kind of know what youre going through but when my OE rad blew out on my 96 4.0 last year I went with the Advance rad. Youre darn lucky they didnt have the line kit with it because the bottom fitting is junkdefective and maybe thats why they dont sell
Quote Originally Posted by alex211 Thanks I already that diagram but it really doesnt help that much since all I need is what color wires do what on the column plugs. It may have the info in that diagram but I cant seem to find it. Large red wire - main power in. Grayred goes to the parking brake switch. BlackTan goes to the brake warning light. Violet goes to instrument cluster pin A-14. Dark Green
This is interesting Ive had several ZJs and all have a trans cooler built into the radiator. Then theres those that have the tow package which add the external cooler that mounts in front of the condenser. Even with the external cooler every ZJ Ive seen to date (with auto trans) always plumb the lines through the trans cooler in the radiator. I actually just added an external stock one to my rig because
It should be right there on top of the radiator when you open the hood. Or 1.5 seconds to search on google. httpwww.onlineautorepair.net1po...t-diagram.html
It wasnt on the radiator but this looks like it might be the right one. Thank you.
Quote Originally Posted by doccjp I own a 1997 ZJ with a 4.o litre engine. It has 150k and runs well. 1) I need to replace the radiator. Anyone have an exploded view as I am unsure how to get inside there 2) What is the concensus on which plugs work best with 1997 ZJ 4.o liter blocks 3) I also bought a great looking bumper guard. How do I remove the front lights and grill so I can instal it Anyone
Your 89 has a closed cooling system. The over flow bottle is going to drop once the engine starts. My 93 has the open system so the radiator has a filler neck on it and not a over flow as a primary coolant feed. If Im on the highway my temp stays low. In town it takes about 10-15 min to hit 190ish. I currently run a GDI 3-core aluminum rad and a 180 thermostat. It stays cool regardless. As long as youre not overheating I wouldnt worry about it.
IIRC the older HO engines are the same as renix engines serp. belt is tensioned with the power steering pump assembly. Replacing thermostat and water pump is a fairly straightforward job - unbolt all necessary fasteners remove replace and re-tighten. Its easier if you remove the radiator but it is not absolutely necessary. Some of the bolts are at a bit nasty locations of you have big hands use extensions and wobbly bits and you are ok.
2000 Fuse list Everything listed is a circuit that is either attached to the fuse or directly impacted by it. Power Distribution Center (under the hood) Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle the bottom right mini fuse is 16 the one above it is 17 the top one in the column is 18. Fuse 19 is to the left (of 16) Fuse 16 underhood lamp transmission control module radio & interior lights Fuse
Hey Dont know if you fixed it however the way i fixed mine is when i blew my radiator i took the header panal off and there is a box under the passenger headlight. That hose was cracked and caused havic.
For the 97 crowd here ya go...for future searches hopefully Fuse 1 power outlet Fuse 2 cigar lighter Fuse 3 left headlamp Fuse 4 left headlamp Fuse 5 right headlamp Fuse 6 Dash lights (switches controls gauge cluster) Fuse 7 license light & the left side turn parking marker and tail lamp Fuse 8 Spare Fuse 9 compass sentry key headlamp delay module instrument cluster Fuse 10 transmission range sensor
Most vehicles have one either under the hood or above the radiator ... I never cared to noticed if the XJ has one...
mine has one above radiator
Quote Originally Posted by 100dollarbill I did mine the same way. 3 way switch and a relay- auto off manual. Do you have a wire diagram or can you tell me how to wire mine this way What did you use for a thermostat switch I am putting a Taurus electric fan in my 98 2.5 TJ that has a mechanical fan now. Thanks Vance
Quote Originally Posted by haulincats Do you have a wire diagram or can you tell me how to wire mine this way What did you use for a thermostat switch I am putting a Taurus electric fan in my 98 2.5 TJ that has a mechanical fan now. Thanks Vance I just used a switch that has on-off-on. Flip it one way and it completes the original curcuit. The other way applies 12v to the fan from an acc point at the
Quote Originally Posted by 100dollarbill I just used a switch that has on-off-on. Flip it one way and it completes the original curcuit. The other way applies 12v to the fan from an acc point at the fuse box. In the middle it is off no power is applied from either source. You are basically splicing the fan wire through the switch. Hope it makes sense it looked good on paper and works fine. Sorry about
that sounds unsafe.....if that fan is not run thru a relay then theres quite a chance of a fire by overloading that switch. Most toggles are only rated at around 20 amps....and I would be worried about running 10 thru them. Sounds like the system would work fine. Heres a rough diagram..
Most of the FSM diagrams show a cap with 16psi drawn on them .... the operating range referred to in the manual is 12-16 psi. A definite 16psi gives you a good increase in safety margins as S-90 stated. Water at 0psi .... 212f boil point Water at 16psi .. 260f boil point 5050 at 16psi .. 270f boil point. Problem is ... if you lose pressure in a 16psi system where the running temp is 210f then you have
is it a standard rotation pump when i was at the parts store they asked me if i wanted standard or reverse rotation. but best bet would be a locked t-sat or a huge bubble did you fill it running with the cap off until the t-sat opened is your belt routed correctly not that likely but not sure how i managed it but i tried putting the belt back on my 5.2 with out looking at the diagram and i some how got it on where its spun fine and had enough tension but it spun the pump backwards.
[QUOTEZJ5point2GCL10633926]is it a standard rotation pump when i was at the parts store they asked me if i wanted standard or reverse rotation. but best bet would be a locked t-sat or a huge bubble did you fill it running with the cap off until the t-sat opened is your belt routed correctly not that likely but not sure how i managed it but i tried putting the belt back on my 5.2 with out looking at
Thanks for all the replys. I found the problem after bypassing the heater core. There was a whole lot of air in the cooling system. We got that out and wired up the electric fan and it is great now. Funny thing is the electric fan doesnt really make a difference in the temp when i turn it on. Well at least it works now. I am going to wait a little while before replacing the heater core. Does anyone
Good call no continuity have a diagram for the wiring on that Or is there a quick way to run a new wire I could install a switch but would rather have it come on and stay on after engine shut off if necessary rather than just having a manual switch.
Unfortunately Im not completely sure which one it was now. I couldnt find any info for it on the diagram the manual or in Haynes. I know it was one of the three I circled in the attached image. Im 50% sure it was the green circled one. In another this thread it seems like that one is a fuel pump fuse which I suppose would make some sense...
Yes the rad-to-condenser seals are essentially just weatherstripping. Going by the diagram in the parts catalog the upper and lower seals are the same. Only the two side seals are custom shapes.
I found this diagram for relays.. would it be the ac clutch relay then Do not see one for just the fan. httpautorepair.about.comlibraryimagesbl347lib.htm
Here are two links that were extremely useful to me when I did this conversion. The first link contains the best diagram for the routing of the hoses. The second link is a good write up (and actually provides a link to the first link too). httpwww.naxja.orgforumshowthre...atorconversion httpwww.naxja.orgforumshowthrea...torconversion
of the cherokee harness is retained including the Power Distrubtion Center starter harness PCM (computer for engine management) and TCU (computer for transmission). With a combination of wiring diagrams and internet research the XJ harness wiring is soldered into the YJs bulkhead connector. -The AW4 automatic transmission is longer than the stock YJ transmission. I have a 3.5 lift kit on the jeep
Your drivetrain is a great upgrade to the YJ I put a 94 XJ 4.0aw4 into my 88 and it is like a new jeep. www.cjoffroad.com has a dedicated 4.0 swap forum. The key to the whole thing imo was getting a bulkhead diagram of the YJ and the cherokee. You map all the wiring connections and make the splices at that bulkhead connector by the brake booster. I used the cherokee power distribution center and weeded
Quote Originally Posted by CraigAllen How to change a serpentine belt on a 1996 cherokee in 70 steps and get plenty of exercise doing it. 1.Walk out to jeep unlock door and open hood. 2.Walk to front of jeep raise and prop hood open. 3.Look at the situation. 4.Notice that upper radiator hose is leaking slightly. 5.Walk to shed get screwdriver. 6.Walk to jeep tighten hose clamps. 7.Walk to shed drop
id get rid of the plastic tanked stock radiator...they always end up seperatingleaking where the plastic tank is crimped onto the core at the worst possible time. You can get a 3 row all metal here for under 160 delivered... CSF radiator and you can get a factory tranny cooler and it uses the stock lines. all ya have to do is drill 2 small holes for the mounting screws. Here is a thread with a picturediagram of one. Transmission Cooler - jeep cherokee Forum