Whats the fuel pressure running at since you put the pump in What brand of pump did you use Did you thoroughly inspect the tank for any dirt or other debris Lastly please tell me you didnt buy a pump from autozone. The p0171 and p0174 are bank 1 and 2 lean codes. The p0113 refers to the intake air temp sensor. Did you check to see if it was plugged in by chance or that there was any wiring damage
I am having the exact same problem with a 2005 Grand cherokee Limited. 6cyl. After about 30 mins to and hour with the key in the ON position the fuel pump relay auto shutdown relay and fuel pump itself start to click rapidly. And the security light will be on. After about a minute the clicking stops the check engine light comes on and off security light goes off and I can start. It gets much worse in cold weather. Do you guys have any ideas
my owners manual also says 20.5 and I have yet to reach that number...I usually end up putting 18 or 19 gallons in to fill. The only explanation I have is that you were absolutely bone dry and you were running on what was left in your fuel lines...I guess the tank combined with the fuel pump and fuel lines might add up to over 20.5 gallons...above and beyond that you either have a bigger tank or jeep has printed inaccurate specs for our fuel tanks.
my owners manual also says 20.5 and I have yet to reach that number...I usually end up putting 18 or 19 gallons in to fill. The only explanation I have is that you were absolutely bone dry and you were running on what was left in your fuel lines...I guess the tank combined with the fuel pump and fuel lines might add up to over 20.5 gallons...above and beyond that you either have a bigger tank or jeep
Quote Originally Posted by Jakked Im with you--Ive never put in more than about 19 gal. Another explanation could be that (1) the pump was miscalibrated andor (2) he completely topped it off. I had the nozzle fully inserted & didnt top it off. The part about the fuel lines & pump having a little might be right as were talking maybe a cup full extra. I mentioned it to the cashier & she stated it was state inspected(back in Jan.). jeep just may have a little bigger tank as a cushion. Just a little curious.
Dont know about the gassers but the 06 CRDs hold 22.5 gallons when completly drained as in removed for insalling a lift pump I think the official capacity is listed in the FSM as approxamently 19 gallons
The housing has a heating element in it. It heats the diesel fuel and keeps it from gelling in the cold weather. That heating element can go bad leading to a possible leak andor engine fire. Not everybody has had the problem. If you have seen no leaks at all...then forget that part for now and just buy a filter. www.lubricationspecialist.com sells CAT brand fuel filters for our jeeps that are better
Posted by WXman The housing has a heating element in it. It heats the diesel fuel and keeps it from gelling in the cold weather. That heating element can go bad leading to a possible leak andor engine fire. Not everybody has had the problem. If you have seen no leaks at all...then forget that part for now and just buy a filter. www.lubricationspecialist.com sells CAT brand fuel filters for our jeeps
The Howes brand I mentioned guarantees no gelling or they pay the tow. It brags that it lubricates the pump and injectors plus removes water. That is a lot of brag for one additive but I know it unclogged my gel problem.
Quote Originally Posted by adventurCRD Is replacing the fuel filter on a 2005 Liberty CRD difficult If not instructions please... Thanks Dave Several people have told me they get underneath the vehicle and reach up to unplug the wire at the bottom of the filter. I looked at my setup and determined it would be easier to unscrew the nuts holding the assembly to the firewall. That way the whole works
Quote Originally Posted by POTBSS Im looking at a used 2005 liberty crd with 82000. looking for any feedback. pros and cons. the jeep is for sale at a jeep dealer and their asking 13000. Thanks I bought my 2006 from Texas certified Motors last August for 12800 out the door. It is the limited model with leather etc... had 75000 miles. I bought it because I was looking for a small 4x4 that got good MPG
After much searching (I shoud have checked the XJ forums first ) I have concluded this is a 96 cherokee pump and 1996 is the only year that uses it.... Quote Originally Posted by RedjeepOwner it isnt on the rail connected to a vacum line like old modles... some say its a part of the pump.. where is it located Same place as the pump. The 96 is different than any other year model. Prior to 96 the fuel
My jeep has been spilling off and one for over a year now so I figure it started at around 55k. What has just started though is something even worse. I can no longer fill my gas tank. This past week it rand down till the empty light came on and I went to the gas station. Stuck the nozzle in squeezed all the way and about 3 seconds after the fuel started pouring the gas just shot out of my tank and
Same thing with my 05...started around 75K. Learned to guestimate what I need to fill it up and just slow the fuel pump way down on that last gallon. No problems since and if slow enough enough the pump will click off right at the very top. Kind of a pain in the arse but it is what it is...
Sorry mobile phone doesnt do sharp images ..this other relay you mean is for fuel pump. I checked wires more but all seems in good condition. I give up and send car to service. We have on service who specialized only for american cars httpwww.topparts.ee
There is no fuel pump relay on the CRD...unless you have fitted one yourself. You have two problems....ignition switch does not actuate the starter. Secondly if starter is actuated then it does not start. By jumping pins 30 and 87 you have proven the starter and battery are OK. So maybe the Starter relay is faulty or fuse 28 under the hood has blown. You need to check with a Voltmeter that you get 12 volts on both side of fuse 28 when turning the ignition switch...if not then the actuator pin is broken or the ignition switch is faulty. If this 12 volts is on fuse 28....you need to check that pin 85 on the Starter Relay is at Ground....the Dark GreenOrange wire. You see that this wire has to go to ground via the ECM which is checking the switch on the Transmission (assembly Transmission SolenoidTRS) to check that you are in Park. If you ground this Dark Green wire then the Starter relay should energise when turning the ignition key...make sure you are in Park Do you have the anti-theft SKIS system installed You should have a Key symbol or a small red light on the cluster that goes on briefly when the ignition is ON...this means SKIS is installed. The light should go out after a few seconds. If it flashes then the SKIS system has not recognized the chip inside the key...engine should start and run a few seconds then shut down. If the SKIS does recognise the chip in the key but the ASD fails to energize then the SKIS light stays ON and the engine turns over but does not start. So check if your AS relay is energizing...you can swap the ASD relay out or also jumper pins 30 and 87 together and see if the engine now starts. Reasons for engine not starting are ASD relay not energizing. Air in fuel at the fuel filter. Bad Crankshaft Sensor. Bad Camshaft Sensor. Bad ECU or bad wiring. The bad wiring that Samse2101 is pointing to is a known problem on the 2006 CRD only. Here is the circuit diagram for the Starting System...this is for the 2006 model but should be close to the 2005 model. You can download the complete 2005 Service Manual here..includes all circuit diagrams. Note that the Export models have a few differences to USA models Some owners recommend also downloading the 2006 Service Manuals...each one has a bit of information that the other one has missing. httpwww.colorado4wheel.commanualsjeepKJ
DIY job but since I was dropping the tank anyways to replace the fuel pump assembly I just left the hoses on the tank pulled them through the frame and removed them on the ground. Then installed the hoses on the metal filler neck and attached them to the tank wnew clamps about 23-34 of the way up. Does the shut off of the gas nozzle happen at all stations with all pump gas nozzles Its kind of a jeepZJ
Then let me add a little controversy.... First I agree with those of you saying that intake mods wont help fuel economy. The point of airflow mods is to increase horsepower if you want fuel economy then youre avoiding doing the things (full-throttle acceleration at high rpm) where the intake mod may benefit you with more airflow over stock. And these arent carbureted engines that will see a leaning
I just spoke with the mechanic (jeep is still at the shop). He was able to get the car to act up and found that the fuel pump wasnt turning on. He said he put a new relay on it and that he hasnt been able to get it to act up since but he was going to do a little more work on it just to make sure that thats the problem.
Quote Originally Posted by Igotjeep99 edit also just wanted to add fuel pumps job is to pump fuel and not provide pressure. They maybe just changing to get off you. Have them change fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and go from there. It does still play a role in the pressure somewhat. There is a check valve in the pump assembly that the return line connects on to that will keep the system pressurized
This is a good fuel pump. Nice series of bumps which is measured in amps and reflects the actual minute changes in current as the motor turns. The rest are different fuel pumps that were bad. The last one wouldnt even make enough pressure to start the car. The second and third from the top you can see unevenness in the ripple especially the second one showing a spot on the arm of the motor shorted
I have a jeep05 with similar issue - it starts fine in the a.m. but if engine is warm (if i drive jeep for any length of time) and i shut down and try and restart within 10-20 minutes the engine just turns over....ive been stuck a few times and only able to get started if i pump the gas pedal or let it sit for a while and then restart. i had a fuel pump replaced 1 year ago and last week the jeep mechanic
Quote Originally Posted by AndreiCRD Hmm the more I read the more I get the impression I should change the filter head unit. Always thought there is a pump in the tank as well interesting idea tho to have a pump in the tank as well. I will look into parting out a new fuel filter head. You need to upgrade to a Racor Filter head....Chrysler installed them on the early Export CRDs which have no issues but then stopped fitting them on the 20056 USA CRDs to save some money. That usually fixes the air in fuel problem but poor fuel line connectors can also pull air in and as a final resort some owners fit a lift pump. Best to go to the CRD Love the Torque section at httpwww.lostjeeps.comforum Read the NOOB guide and post your questions there.
Most of the problems with the CRD has been found to be fuel related and with the ULSD fuel being shipped to distributors should fix most of them but you may still have a problem with the EGR valve or flow control valve due to excessive ash deposits in them from the LSD. ULSD ultra low sulfur deisel and LSD low sulfur diesel. Im a CRD certified tech both Cummins and VM. The torque converter problem were caused by a bad sump pump seal or a porious front pump the reason they were locking up and stalling the engine is because the torque converter is held unlocked by full line pressure in the trans and if there is a leak you will loose pressure to the torque converter which allows it to lock up. All in all the Liberty is a strong vehicle that has had some issues but I have worked on many high mileage gassers of the past few years and they have very few problems. 05 basic warranty is 336000 with the extended powertrain which was 770000 06 and later models have the basic 336000. I work for a jeep dealer.
Quote Originally Posted by Kev M Thanks Luther and Rob. Rob sulfer-clogging the EGR whats the fix take it off and clean it or replace About how often would that occur assuming the ULSD fuels might not be widespread for a year or so Is the 770 powertrain warranty automatically transferred to a second owner The vehicle Im considering is at a wholesaler. Hell it only has 6k miles on it so depending upon
Quote Originally Posted by rob92xj All stations should be pumping ULSD diesel by 103106 across the country. With only 6000 miles it shouldnt be a problem. There has been a revised EGR valve that came out to the US market they have not had these problems in Europe but then again we get crap for diesel fuel in this country compared to what they are pumping overseas. If there is no vehicle restrictions
Quote Originally Posted by Kev M But the gassers fuel economy isnt acceptable to me anymore. Ive lived with it with the cherokee for long enough. Ya know Ive never even considered owning a Toyota before (ok maybe the FJ is kinda cool) but if Toyota can get 2128 out of a V6 in a RAV4 thanks to the 5-speed (and still maintain 3500 lbs towing capacity) DC has no excuse for such crappy highway mileage
The 2005 service manual says The fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are combined within the fuel pump module assembly. They are not serviceable. If you do want to change it price of the part is around 100 you need to get to the access plate as jsc7002 stated drill out some rivets and drop the fuel tank 4 inches. this is part of the reason why chrysler considers it a lifetime filter.
Quote Originally Posted by aszalan The 2005 service manual says The fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are combined within the fuel pump module assembly. They are not serviceable. If you do want to change it price of the part is around 100 you need to get to the access plate as jsc7002 stated drill out some rivets and drop the fuel tank 4 inches. this is part of the reason why chrysler considers it a lifetime filter. Ok. Lets hope it never has to be changed then Thanks
Quote Originally Posted by streetglideok How did you determine the engine has fuel There are two steps to an engine getting fuel and both are important. First is fuel pressure it needs to be in spec. Second is injector operation. Need to verify the injectors work because if you havent you dont know if the engine is really getting fuel. Next thing is the engine itself. Is this your first 3.7L4.7L engine
I would start with checking the fuel pressure when vehicle is hot. Vacuum leaks IAC all of what you mentioned. but i would start at the fuel pump the EVAP system
None of this will get any better until gas station pumps are required to post cetane numbers like octane on gas pumps. Course then theyll raise the price on premium even though it costs the same to make... 2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w Renegade rock rails & light bar AirLift rear helper springs -22575R16 MTRs on cheap black steel wheels dual MOPAR subwoofers & seat covers.
3 vehicles 2002 - 2004 I35 BaseV6 - 3.5L 3498cc type VQ35DE - MFI GAS DOHC Isuzu 8 vehicles 3 vehicles 1998 - 2000 TrooperV6 - 3.5L 3475cc type 6VE1 - MFI GAS DOHC 2 vehicles 2001 - 2002 TrooperV6 - 3.5L vin X 3475cc type 6VE1 - MFI GAS DOHC 2 vehicles 1999 - 2000 VehiCROSS BaseV6 - 3.5L 3475cc type 6VE1 - MFI GAS DOHC 1 vehicles 2001 VehiCROSS BaseV6 - 3.5L vin X 3475cc type 6VE1 - MFI GAS DOHC jeep
Quote Originally Posted by dtreed1 Hello all I have a 1997 jeep cherokee Sport straight 6 with 221000 miles on it. I have not made any modifications to it since I purchased it in 2005. Before that I do not know the history of the vehicle. I started having an issue last month where I would be driving and the vehicle will stop running and I lose power steering. I would have to pull off to the side of
guessing from the motor mounts that also need to be replaced with the tranny mount it prolly has stock fuel filters in the tank so those are being replaced then it needs the rear suspention rebuild and i believe that covers it this is the first vehicle ive kept this long so trust me when i say its a good vehicle ive had 2005 model focus it lasted five years for me 06 Cobalt lasted three years jeep