If you bent just the one arm what else is bent Id have that looked at quickly.
httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf11bolt-high-pinion-dana-44-a-747194 This thread is all about setting up a dana 44 front you can probably skip the bits about narrowing it. Then get some control arms and put some mounts on your body.
tnt customs sells a truss also... and a nice long arm kit
httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf11rebuilding-front-dana-44-a-397243 that thread has just about everything you should need to known sierra drifter did an awesome job with this build. Im actually planning to use it to help me when i do a fullwidth swap this summer
You doing this on your own or a shop If its a shop swing in and talk to them and ask them their opinion on the long arms choices. Theres also Clayton and TnT. These will help as far as ease of install. From there you can go with RE or MORE for the needed control arm and Trac bar mounts. FYI the TnT truss adapter for the front D44 would be a pretty sweet bang for the buck. If its Waggy 44. httpwww.gotreks.compage.asppageid175
includes the kits from T&T Customs Claytons Hardparts Rubicon Express Rustys OffRoad and some others. The only 4-link long-arm kits I know of for XJs are BDSs new kit and Full Tractions. SkyJacker has a 4-link kit but I dont really consider it a true long-arm kit because they use normal-length upper arms (the same applies to TeraFlexs kit). Superlift has a slick new 4-link long-arm kit for TJYJ jeeps
Varying caster is not a concern unless the setup is built totally wrong. Never on the street will you see enough wheel travel for it to be noticable. Now if youre into jeepspeed CORR or whatever yeah it can be a problem. But Im not going to talk about that. Varying pinion angle however can be. Oh Id contribute meaningful information to this post but yeah dont feel like it. All I will say is the guys
If I wanted a heavy vehicle Id have bought a one ton and just put a cheap body lift and big tires. I like this vehicle at or near its current weight. The stereo stuff Ive added is necessary and I am willing to accept that 80 or so pounds. Its also sprung weight. I dont want high unsprung weight which solid arms would be. I also dont anticipate needing solid arms in my foreseeable future unless I move
For the front pinion angle and caster might as well be one in the same you cant change one without changing the other. And pinion angle with a double-cardan shaft is just as important as with a regular 2-joint shaft. Either way DirtyCommanche is right about the change on-road not being enough to worry about unless you were doing something like jeepspeedbajaprerunner racing.
The track bar should have a tie rod end on the upper end and a bushing on the lower end. You might be able to use a take-off from a 4x4 cherokee that has been replaced. The control arms have replacable bushings but they are a PITA to replace. Might try for some good used take-offs there too.
i just did my crontrol arm bushings. they are a pain but not too bad. about an hour for all
The lower rubber bushing on the track-bar is replaceable. Not sure if the mechanic was indication that end or not but NAPA does have a replacement bushing in their parts database. Otherwise as mentioned by DCorn most purchase replacement Control arms from Quadratec instead of pressing out the bushings on the factory pieces. I have a write-up that shows the track-bar bushing part number and how the UCAs are pressed out. httpwww.grobe.usjeepTechTools...nd-install.htm
Quote Originally Posted by sebastian22 Thanks for the advice but I think it is 30 EACH for the upper and 35 EACH for the lower... httpwww.quadratec.comproducts56015_004.htm httpwww.quadratec.comproducts56015_001.htm Or am I reading that wrong So Im looking at 140 for 2 upper CAs 2 lower CAs and 2 upper CA bushings... OR 60 for 4 upper CA bushings and 4 lower CA bushings. I have a ball joint press so
Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRad Its been an issue since I got the jeep almost 5 years ago but now with the new OME springs and ProComp shocks its worse. When on the rockybumpy trails theres a banging and knocking at the right front corner. It sounds like something is broken and slopping around I can even sometimes hear an echo in the spring-- but its been inspected a bazillion times and nothing
Yes Im sure it could use engine and trans mounts those are just as old as everything else. But the clunking and banging is definately in the suspension. Im gonna order new bushings for the sway bar end links a new steering damper and I think Im gonna do all 4 front control arms. The replacement on these looks pretty straight-forward made easier with a good impact gun. While Im in there I should replace both front CV axles too.
Yes that is the control arm bushing. Dont replace the axles unless the boots are torn. They are still good if the boots are intact. Do one arm at a time and mark the cam bolts with a marker so you can put them back at the same angle. I did all the lowers at one time then the uppers later. The uppers do not see near the amount of stress as the lowers. It made a night and day difference in the way it handled and felt.
Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRad That pic is of your control arm bushing correct My experience httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf13w...-like-1027823
Had new arms fitted 2 years ago ball joints still O.K. but Im sure the dealer ripped up the bolts when the suspension was at full drop. As a consequence the bushes were under strain when the arms were at the normal position. Also Ive fitted OME springs so that has lifted the suspension from its droopy original height