Next remove the brake pads noteing the anti-rattle clips. The next item to remove is the wheel aligning bracket this is done by removing the lower shock-piller 19mm bolt and the outer caliper mounting nut 17mm. Next the caliper mount remove the two 17mm bolts the upper bolt has thread on both sides of the boltnut and remove the Caliper mount (you should now have a nice little pile of parts ) Remove
i have to say this is one of the best thread we have had tony n thanked for this post
This looks about right httpcgi.ebay.co.ukWHEEL-bearing-...QQcmdZViewItem In fact I have an identical one sat in front of me in need of fitting (bearing stopped making noises and the weathers been crap so its not been done). Hope this helps.
Thanks but unfortunatly item gone by the time read message Regards
I dont know how urgent it is but these come up on ebay quite regularly.
the front bearings I replaced on the Sisley... Got those at &16350 from Motoquip in Workington. Just for your info there is a guide on bearing replacement on the guide section. __________________ Before doing anything.... FFS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.   Quote   27-08-2007   9 Jaff_Fox Get Your Own Title   Join Date Feb 2004 Location Stockport Posts 478 Thanks 1 Trader Rating 0 Re panda
turning and was simmilar to a squeek. The difference in them is clear. If the Driveshaft or CV joint had gone or was on the way it would grate more than squeek so I doubt that is your problem As for the anti-rattle clips no you dont need them but they can rattle that much you think the bearing is going to fall off they can get that loud. You can buy a kit with the clips for a pound or two from fiat
thanks for the advice saves taking the hub off to look and find its wrong
In days past Ive improvised with chisels spacers and a vice but for this job I think Id just remove the hub and take it to somewhere with a press. The attached description might help. And you can get the bearing here . Attached Files panda Wheel bearing Removal.pdf (198.0 KB 46 views) Macwalsh thanked for this post
thanks i will try them. i have already got the rear hubsbearing so i might do those as well
On a 4x4 I think they look pretty similar on a 2x4 the rear looks totally different doesnt have the big square block on the back to bolt on just held in by the hub nut. like this httpwww.ebay.co.ukitmREAR-Wheel...item58a1d1e6ff
for bushes as well these need inspectingprying to see if the move excessively. The ARB D bushes that hold the bar to the subframechassis can wear a little as well this usually results in a muted fast rattle not that common on these as some other models. Ball joints and suspension bushes can knock rough roads again or sometimes on and off power as the wishboneball joint slaps back and forth. The pandas
Quote Originally posted by Donkey i have just borught a nw front left wheel bearing (not cheap) and i was wanting to know how easy it is to fit i have had a look at the haynes manual and that just confused the tits off me. Having been quite close to there doing an outboard driveshaft boot.. httpwww.fiatforum.comforumtopic.aspTOPIC_ID5253 the comments in that post may help - particularly with regard
Originally Posted by Mcpanda Had my panda jacked for an oil change today and while it was jacked I noticed the front driver wheel turned very easily with little resistance but the passenger side was much harder to turn. I have had an ongoing problem with the car pulling to the left and reckon this might be the cause. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is and what I can do to rectify it hi
httpwww.shop4parts.co.uknamest...5474&sku13219 for a pair. The struts just unbolt from the hub (two bolts) and inside the inner wing (one nut). Pull the struts out from under the wing. Youll have to compress the spring with a couple of spring compressors and then undo the nut theres usually a hole for an allen key in the centre to stop the rod from spinning. httpcgi.ebay.co.uk2PC-CAR-COIL-SUSPENSION-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-CLAMPS-STRUTS-280547948335ptUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hashitem4151f5f72f
Noises like this (that happen in gear and out-coasting) can usually be traced back to the running gear somewhere. Driveshafts and CV joints wheel bearings brakes etc. As youve had the brakes seen to recently this is where Id start. Has it been all put back together correctly Is the caliper siezed Does it float on the pins The body of the caliper should be able to move up as the pads wear. Is there
Originally Posted by atsimeri Goodevening everyone. I own a fiat panda dynamic 1.2 2005 model with 78000 Km. Lately I hear (on smooth tarmac mostly) a periodic noise that starts to sound at very low speed (20 km h) increasing with speed and comes from the wheels (not sure if comes from the front or from the back of the car). 3 things crossed my mind 1. Wheel bearings 2. faulty brake discs 3. faulty
It will make no difference whether the panda is 2 or 4wd for this procedure. Tools Required- Torque wrench 32191713 & long 12mm sockets 191713mm Ring spaners Good quality ball joint removal tool (This is optional as there are two methods of removing the bearing this procedure does not require the ball joints to be removed). Knackered large screwdriver. Small screwdriver. Small or large hammer Axle
From my Project Peterborough thread... Okay here we go. As usual this is how I did it and not a comprehensive guide. Replacing the slave cylinder and brake shoes from a panda 4x4. Take your fiat panda 4x4 and... ...elevate the rear of the car (in my case van) using ramps... ...support the axle with a trolley jack and remove the wheel bolts. Once loosened remove the wheel and move the ramp out of the
Originally Posted by Liquid Knight From my Project Peterborough thread... Okay here we go. As usual this is how I did it and not a comprehensive guide. Replacing the slave cylinder and brake shoes from a panda 4x4. Take your fiat panda 4x4 and... ...elevate the rear of the car (in my case van) using ramps... ...support the axle with a trolley jack and remove the wheel bolts. Once loosened remove the
We also noticed that the front hub wheel bearings hub nuts are also the same. along with ignition leads spark plugs oil filter all the same fitting But please note they are a different price A different price for the same part More expensive if yoy say for the panda than the Punto ie fiat reccomend Fram oil filter from fiat for the Punto 5.99 for the Panfa 9.88 and they are the same part code.
Originally Posted by billybudge We also noticed that the front hub wheel bearings hub nuts are also the same. along with ignition leads spark plugs oil filter all the same fitting But please note they are a different price A different price for the same part More expensive if yoy say for the panda than the Punto ie fiat reccomend Fram oil filter from fiat for the Punto 5.99 for the Panfa 9.88 and they
Originally Posted by billybudge We also noticed that the front hub wheel bearings hub nuts are also the same. The hubs might look similar but they certainly dont share part numbers in fiat land.
Originally Posted by 306maxi I thought the bearings were integral to the hub on rear of the panda500 Originally Posted by Goudrons it is httpwww.shop4parts.co.uknamest...1285&sku4030 Thats fortunate & the price is reasonable too . Originally Posted by Louie Bee Ive not done rear bearings but had a few front hub nuts off before now. Its not really a job for the novice with a few spanners kicking round.
I did a how to on the front bearings which covers about 34 of what you need to do if its the same as the 4x4 system.. httpwww.fiatforum.companda-classic-guides44993-front-wheel-hub-bearing-replacement.html
Make sure you take the wiper motors carb inlet manifold exhaust manifold Windscreen washer pump(s) Rear light clusters front indicator lenses sump if any good and petrol sender unit. Also check if the hubs have been replaced (this often happens on salt-damaged models). If they have ... grab them A spare steering rack is always useful and very easy to remove and dont forget as many UJCVbearings as you can front wheel discs and dampers (especially if they have 7 coil springs).
Originally Posted by pandafan Make sure you take the wiper motors carb inlet manifold exhaust manifold Windscreen washer pump(s) Rear light clusters front indicator lenses sump if any good and petrol sender unit. Also check if the hubs have been replaced (this often happens on salt-damaged models). If they have ... grab them A spare steering rack is always useful and very easy to remove and dont
usually damage the rubber dust cover - I use bar and hammer on side of joint - no probs there Had to put old bearing back in drive shaft boot though as one supplied was too big (and knacked as someones tried fitting it before - incorrectly as well - I should have checked it in the shop...) good job my old one was ok Backs bad now though argh... and no car for tomorrow ...theres a perfectly good panda
Thought I may have found an easy fix for Barbaras noisey gearbox. When I looked underneath I noticed alot of oil around the ns inner cv boot Ha maybe its just that the gearbox is low on oil So I renewed the cv boot today Ill give brief run down of how I do it in case it helps anybody....... I remove the driveshaft and hub as a unit with the track control arm and tie bar attached. Once the brake caliper
httpcgi.ebay.co.ukfront-Ball-Joi...ayphotohosting Found this Looking at it you do remove hub nut which WILL BE TIGHT 34 drive socket set recommended. Also make sure you slacken this first with the car on the deck and if possible get someone to hold the foot brake on while you slacken it. Wheel brake caliper carrier and disc next. Then 4 bolts hold the hubwheel bearing assembly in place hub and bearing
Ive just done this job. The Haynes manual covers it pretty well but it is a fairly big job and you need to undo the front brake & suspension to be able to pull the leg out to get the driveshaft out. If you are taking the driveshaft out you might as well do both sides as when I did mine I found that the good gaiters on the other side all had signs of perishing so they would have leaked eventually. First
one of my threads stripped and i need a new hub-hopefully the parts will come in soon cos i cant drive-the guy said i cant drive with only 3 bolts in the front wheel oh yeh neeed a wheel bearing kit too
Originally Posted by JAFFY one of my threads stripped and i need a new hub-hopefully the parts will come in soon cos i cant drive-the guy said i cant drive with only 3 bolts in the front wheel oh yeh neeed a wheel bearing kit too Ive got a couple of front bearings I just fitted new ones. The old ones were OK but as I was doing everything else changed them anyway. And I will be at Santa Pod tomorrow
Ive the same problem with the front left wheel...when cornering to the right I hear an intermittant noise from there plus a vibration on the steering ...its getting worse with the mileage and as far as I remember the front bearings are pressed inside the hub carrier so unbolting the huge driveshaft nut is only the 1st step of a long job .Any ideas on how to replace the fron wheel bearings
Clutch replacement in front wheel drive cars lots and lots of work If youre not confident about this sort of thing best get someone else to do it. The gearbox is exactly the same as found in the MKII FIRE engined cars. To give you an idea of how much work is involved (in no particular order) Disconnect the front section of the propshaft from the back of the gearbox. While youre under there loosen
Originally Posted by allen fletcher use a good tool so you dont slip damage the rad or your self Thanks for the advice Sort of thing Id normally do. LOL. Still got the war wounds ill take to my grave on my wrist of when my hand slipped when trying to remove front passenger hub bearing off of the donor 750L to say it was a basrd was an understatement lol.
Halfshaft sounds like it could be the splines on the actual shaft are worn which would require a new shaft might be best to try and find a complete rear axle and fit that instead as I imagine getting a half shaft could be tricky. You could overhall the rear brakes at the same time. You will need to get a complete new hub carrier and balljoint unless you can get a new joint pressed in to the old carrier.
i Wont. Didnt have much time today after work to further examine the car BUT.. I need 2 brackets for the sunroof. the ones that hold on to the car with the rivets. from a small research i made none is available so im going to ask for a guy to fabricate a couple.. steel ones. Rust has been found .. in the sunroof structure inside the vinyl. i think im going to disassemble the sunroof and clean that