prone to clutch cable failure due to this design of cable. On LHD cars this type worked without problem because the clutch cable was shorter and left the bulkhead in a straight line whereas on RHD cars the cable had to turn through 90 degrees after leaving the bulkhead in order to cross the engine bay thus putting heavy pressure on the white plastic mount each time the clutch was used. After 86 fiat
The car is a LHD 2003 model with less than 120.000km on the clock. I am guessing the clutch is still the OEM item. I bought it when it had about 110.000km on it and my EGR died and it caused me a lot of problems. The car wouldnt start loss of power etc... So I decided that instead of changing the EGR I got the car remapped and the EGR was disabled in the ECU and some more power was unleashed. The power increase is noticeable But of course we are talking about a 1300cc diesel engine so we are not discussing huge numbers MPG remained more or less the same as before if I drive normally and if I push it the fuel consumption is a bit HIGHER. This was done by a professional is not a chinese chip. So nobody knows if any of the OEM fiat pressure plates made for the stronger engines will fit
Ill try to get some samples to compare if any of the other pressure plates will fit. And if not I will just go with a Valeo or Luk clutch. I dont buy stuff that is no name and says OEM equivalent thats just a complete loss of time. I did a remap to weasel my way out of an EGR replacement as that is really a pig of a job on a panda. So the remap and the EGR disabling costed about the same as buying
Does the clutch bite right at the very top of the pedal travel A clutch slips either because the lining is worn - unlikely at these mileages - or because its contaminated with oil either from the gearbox or the engine - both possible - or because the mechanism is preventing it from engaging fully (hence the question about where the clutch bites) - either a faulty mechanism - the withdrawal mechanism
clutch replacement in front wheel drive cars lots and lots of work If youre not confident about this sort of thing best get someone else to do it. The gearbox is exactly the same as found in the MKII FIRE engined cars. To give you an idea of how much work is involved (in no particular order) Disconnect the front section of the propshaft from the back of the gearbox. While youre under there loosen
A new clutch & pressure plate is the only fix for that im afraid.
Hi Guys Thanks for the responses its nice to have some clarification on this babbo_umbro have just been out to try pumping the clutch unfortunately it didnt work but I did notice a couple of things -the clutch pedal is very very light ie it needs hardly any pressure to be fully depressed and returns to the normal up position just as easily -without depressing the pedal I tried to put it into the gears
Update - Next Friday they will fit a new clutch some metal plates that look like fins are defect not enough pedal pressure I have no clue the name with only 15000 km its still under warranty. After the initial post it took nearly a week for the clutch to be totally inop..
Sounds like the springs have gone in the pressure plate.
Quote Originally posted by toecutter Cheers Pete. I think. Just what I like in written communication conciseness and colour. However could you elaborate on which part of the clutch (pressure springs) and the technical description of buggered Possibly the actuating arm pivot or the driven plate sticking on the gearbox shaft splines. Unless anyone else knows different. According to my Concise Oxford
100 UKP bill at the next MOT get it done before the purchase - with emphasis on the gas test the CAT will be tired by now if original. If youve got through all that and ticked every good bit and not found any bad give or take the state of the tyres preferably with lots of history youve probably got 400 and odd UKP worth of panda. Regards John H Attached Thumbnails     __________________ fiat
They do wear the inside edges of the front tyres a little. I guess when you say the bolts were regulated by a garage I presume you mean it had the wheel alignment checked and reset. Most tyre centres will be able to do this for you though some employ apes on peanuts that still cant set one properly These pandas are noted for the suspension wishbone bushing wearing or splitting which will also spoil
Originally Posted by Goudrons They do wear the inside edges of the front tyres a little. I guess when you say the bolts were regulated by a garage I presume you mean it had the wheel alignment checked and reset. Most tyre centres will be able to do this for you though some employ apes on peanuts that still cant set one properly These pandas are noted for the suspension wishbone bushing wearing or splitting
Originally Posted by KozmoNaut Fraguzz Ive been following your threads with great interest and my panda is very likely to recieve a slight power boost (not much just getting it to 85-90hp or so) in the future. I know youve had yours tuned by landberg.dk but considering the original clutch probably wont be able to take even 90hp for long do you have a part number or a name for the aftermarket clutch
update Confirm its the clutch. have change the clutch pressure plate clutch plate bearing selector fork and bushes. now its back to normal. Most Easterly pandas liked this post
rare. The system self-learns the biting point itself though there can be occasions where something outside of its adjustability can cause issues like a clutch fault (faulty pressure plate oil contamination) or driver errorabuse but again- these are outside of its control and not inherent faults in the actuators. The system is also hugely more reliable than the Alfa Selespeed design (something us fiat
Originally Posted by x Alex x I can see a lot of these being written off due to these gearboxes being uneconomical to repair in a few years. If the thrust bearing wears into the pressure plate it might still grip when trying to change gear not allowing gears to go in when it goes in maybe clutch worn and slips. Just a thought.
The only forum that knows a lot are the alfa forum. Look up alfa selespeed its a similar box the pushrod can be adjusted on theres but not ours. It could be pressureactuator issue if it does not select a gear . In FES does it show above 40 bar or above in the gearbox pressure section after the pump has primed the gearbox after the doors opened. If yes and when the engine runs and you engage first
We had an old JTD bravo which developed a slipping clutch. Turned out to be oil seeping around the crank bolts onto the flywheel. This shows that a slipping clutch may not always be as simple as worn out friction material. The only way to get an idea of cost is to get it opened up and see what has gone wrong. Is there any warranty remaining in case something like the pressure plate has cracked
I had a 100HP for nearly five years (swapped for a 4x4 TA six months ago) - apart from a wonky clutch plate from new which was replaced under warranty it was absolutely trouble-free. I put Koni Sports on the back which were a great improvement. My previous car was a Cinquecento Sport where the change across the gate was slicker with a little rightwards as well as forwards pressure on the gear lever.
More than likely the noise is the spigot bearing in the box although the release bearing is a tiny little joke of a thing that gives up without warning and takes the pressure plate with it they sometimes do the exact opposite of what a duff bearing normally does ie whine when NOT under load if this is the case it is going to let go SOON I can sort you out with a good clutch pretty cheaply Steve.
When you come to refit the gearbox try to seal the bell housing as well as possible. If muddy water gets in there mud packs itself into the pressure plate and stops the clutch from engaging. You really dont want the shame of being towed out of a mud hole by a Land Rover Les
Change the oil oil filter air filter and fuel filter. (Fuel filter can be a bit of a pig do a search on youtube) If its got Air Con theyll be a cabin filter tucked up by the clutch pedal fecker to get in and out (see youtube again) Id throw in some Forte injector cleaner in with the new fuel filter. It takes around 3 litres (perhaps a drop more with a filter change) of 5W40. Specs vary depending on
The clutch noise going away you press the pedal sounds to me like the thrust bearing is going it will rattle away for a while but will eventually damage the pressure plate if it is on its way out.
Then on the basis that it does have an EGR valve I would be taking it off cleaning it then putting it back with a blanking plate so it wont get bunged up again. This is the sort of thing you need httpwww.ebay.co.ukitmEGR-VALVE-...item565f6382f6 Does this engine have a MAP (Manifold Absolute pressure) sensor If it does itll need cleaning as well. Spray with Brake and clutch aerosol and re-install. Dave
Originally Posted by Fuzzypanda I have myself a slipping clutch. Gears can still be engaged but the engine runs away at about 34 throttle in any gear. Flicked through the Haynes which suggests Incorrect release bearing to pressure plate finger clearance andor Friction linings worn out or oil contaminated. Sigh The timing really couldnt be better as Im going to a gig with 4 mates tomorrow. Suggestions tried adjusting the cable up may give you a short period till you can get it done
its done a lot of town driving with the car stopped but not put into neutral the pressure plate could be goosed. That could cause it to become jerky as the mechanics wont be running as they were intended to. The controls dont encourage drivers to use neutral even though the book says to not hold it in-gear for a long time. It could also be the mechanism is sticking somewhere else. I dont know if fiatECUScan
On these cars the clutch pressure plate almost always fails first with the release bearing wearing a groove into the spring fingers that it bears up against. On a manual car you feel the clutch action going lumpy and bouncy like something is bending but nothing is happening. The effect is hard to engage 1st gear and increasingly knotchy downshifts especially from 5th and 3rd. I put up with mine by throttle blipping (bike style) to get smooth downshifts. Obviously you cant do that on a duologic. My Mother had a panda Duologic (which I liked) but it never encourages you to use neutral and when you do its slow to wake up when you want to get going. It could be the car has sat a lot at traffic lights in gear and its done in the clutch pressure plate. It could of course just be faulty actuators so it will need the ECU codes to be read and see what comes out. I have no idea if fiatECUScan can do that.
Originally Posted by Most Easterly pandas What 63000miles ish Could that be the issue with my Stilo then Worn clutch Thats sometimes stiff to change gear and if accelerating fast thatll sound like I havent fully pressed the clutch when changing into 2nd & 3rd etc Oh yes clutches are now much better than they once were but 60k plus on a car driven in town a lot especially if its seen a lot of stop start