The noise that disappears when the clutch is depressed comes from the gearbox and is not a clutch fault. It is probably not significant but may indicate that the gearbox oil level is a bit low. This is fairly easily checked but you will need to search this section of the forum for details as I have no pictures to post. If you have a panda with rear disc brakes then I suspect the noise on braking comes
The car is a LHD 2003 model with less than 120.000km on the clock. I am guessing the clutch is still the OEM item. I bought it when it had about 110.000km on it and my EGR died and it caused me a lot of problems. The car wouldnt start loss of power etc... So I decided that instead of changing the EGR I got the car remapped and the EGR was disabled in the ECU and some more power was unleashed. The power increase is noticeable But of course we are talking about a 1300cc diesel engine so we are not discussing huge numbers MPG remained more or less the same as before if I drive normally and if I push it the fuel consumption is a bit HIGHER. This was done by a professional is not a chinese chip. So nobody knows if any of the OEM fiat pressure plates made for the stronger engines will fit
Originally Posted by lightweightmick Im surprised no ones picked me up on one vital operation required thats not on the above list... you all dozing till it comes to an oil change Ah I see what you mean Originally Posted by lightweightmick 1) disconnect battery (only cos its knackered lol) -cup of tea 2) Remove starter motor -cup of tea 3) disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold -cup of tea 4) disconnect
Originally Posted by VmanC Gearbox wont come out very far without disconnecting the prop shaft. That would be that ring of allen bolts then onto the transfer box... the one I havent got a socket for... I havent tried just an allen key yet though but I doubt thatll crack em off. Otherwise progress good today apart from forgetting the most important one on list no.6 ...that soon took care of itself though as the OS inboard boot came adrift as I disconnected the ball joint from the lower arm - it was only secured with a tie wrap (I prefer the metal bands...) - surprising how long it takes to grab something to catch oil... I found the drain plug afterward - caked over as it was... Cant (as yet) see the need to disconnect exhaust... (any thoughts..) - doesnt appear to be in the way.. Dare say Ill find out when the manifold cracks or something equally drastic happens... Good to learn I can now just get the balljoint dust covers - (at least one good thing to come out of new MOT law) This didnt used to be the case and I didnt fancy buying two new hub carriers (if I could get em..) - I have just replaced the ball joints before now but they are a bggr to get in I wasnt getting anywhere with two big hammers on the sides of the joint (must have lost some of my umph lol) so I came inside and did a bit of research before searching out the balljoint splitter... Anyone used these dust covers.. - do I need the small ones and are they same size as tie rod ball joints Doing well - no blood lost yet... Thanks for the encouraging banter you guys - it makes a world of difference to know you have the might of the fiat Forum behind you
That big chunk is now sitting on the jack... er and the tie rod. Terrifying as it starts to lower - but that tie rod will have to be disconnected. You also have to remove the mounting bracket - not just disconnect the mounting as the transmission cant be moved sufficiently away from the engine to lower otherwise. Getting a fair collection of nuts and bolts... hope I can remember where they all go
I reckon itll come down with tie bar (radius rod) just loosened on lower arm and disconnected at front and pushed aside under wheel arch Attached Thumbnails   __________________ Anything is possible with a panda Ellen - 87 Ducato 2.5D Elddis Autoking 630CK Lucy - 90 panda 1000s Rachel - 95 panda 1.0 CLX SR Ruth - 90 panda 4x4 SR   Quote   03-10-2013   17 lightweightmick Get Your Own
Originally Posted by pandablues Nahh cant see it lasting worth a long spit for me. As a counterpoint Ive now done 60K km in my MJ and I have had no problems with it. Tyres lasted 55K km clutch is fine not a single part replaced tracking is spot on mileage is equal or better compared to the spec (if I force myself to drive like a sane person) brake discs are still good until at least next summer according
part replaced tracking is spot on mileage is equal or better compared to the spec (if I force myself to drive like a sane person) brake discs are still good until at least next summer according to my mechanic not a single drop of water in the cabin even during torrential downpours. It is by far the most reliable car Ive owned and I used to drive a Corolla Just goes to show there are reliable pandas
Could be the cable but its also quite common for the clutch lever to seize in the casing. You will need to disconnect the cable at the gearbox end and try both bits independently. If its the cable its an easy fix just fit a new one. If its the lever you may be able to free it up by spraying with WD40 and working it backwards and forwards with a lever. If you can free it off enough to be driveable using
lubricant safe to be use on rubber and nylon to un-seize clutch release shaft and the bush WD40 will react with rubber o-ring seal which seats in groove just above nylon bush.( refer to photo - normally bush seats at the top of the shaft) edit ps. dont go to far whit spraying in you dont want to get any wd40 lubricant on to cluch assembly. Attached Thumbnails     __________________ fiat
Yes I believe so.... well at least now I do. The later ones have the metal sleeve to create nice bend and two bolts to the pedal box. The early ones have the white plastic twist fit and locking plate (discussed in other threads) and appear to be at least one inch shorter than the middle group. The middle group have no sleeve white twist end instead and longer than old ones. Perhaps some kind soul would put up a post with all part nos as it seems that clutch cables are consumables when it comes to pandas and I have failed and suceeded only in confusing the situation more it seems.
out anything with your chassisngine nos __________________ Before doing anything.... FFS discONNECT THE BATTERY.   Quote   04-04-2008   7 xsparky Get Your Own Title   Join Date Mar 2008 Location RingwoodHants Posts 225 Thanks 25 Trader Rating 0   Re Axle & clutch question 4x4 Hi Alan many thanks for that what I was hoping to do on ePer was compare part numbers for other panda
both be in contact with the prongs of the operating fork. ePER does show a small indentation in the back of each prong which would be where the clips would normally go if they were fitted but there are no clips shown on ePER . Dave. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ Stilo Parts For Sale Connect Nav Map discs - Wiper Motor (NEW) Croma Turbo i.e. Badges. For details click here httpwww.fiatforum.comclassifieds...0&ppuser48514
clutch replacement in front wheel drive cars lots and lots of work If youre not confident about this sort of thing best get someone else to do it. The gearbox is exactly the same as found in the MKII FIRE engined cars. To give you an idea of how much work is involved (in no particular order) disconnect the front section of the propshaft from the back of the gearbox. While youre under there loosen
Got hold of an eLearn disc for the panda and having had a look through the gearbox removal section it doesnt seem that bad a job to do - no need to drain the gear oil (though a change probably wouldnt do any harm anyway) no need to get the hub nuts off no subframes in the way etc. Just strip off the battery air intakes etc disconnect all the linkages wiring and driveshafts and drop it out I know it
My apologies late in reading this thread I fitted a tuning box at Christmas (four months ago) and immediately noticed much improved performance PLUS better fuel economy. Obviously not economy if I drove flat out all the time.... After a week or so it became apparent that hard acceleration in third particularly on inclines produced a few seconds of high revs and no go. In other words clutch slip. Rather
Originally Posted by Most Easterly pandas Im not sure if the free version will do it as Ive the licensed version. You need to access the gearbox ECU on it and Id try purging bleeding the hydraulic system first Thanks again for your reply... The paid version is not too expensive to download and sure beats a weekend spent under a car removing a gearbox... I have tried to replace as much of the hydraulic
Ah thanks for this. Have a 2006 1.2 Dynamic (bought second hand) and the clutch stuck on two driving occasions - very disconcerting needless to say. On both occasions it was after a fellow from the panel beaters (a long story) drove it to collect me from work. What he might have done to the clutch while driving heaven knows. Fortunately no sticking since then but if it does will now know what to tell the mechanic -). He was convinced that it was the mat... -( and I know it damn well it wasnt.
Ah thatll be because youve not to survo assist brakes so the master cylinder is on drivers side. Just disconnect from pedal box un-bolt from bulk head and pull master cylinder forward to gain access to the clutch cable
I think hes just a little concerned about how to disconnect the rear drive bit rather than taking the box off the engine.
Originally Posted by Yak I dont think its the alternater belt as the reves arnt realy changing that much when it happens and it seem to come from the left of the car and i presume that the alternator is on the right Yes thats right but I had similar symptoms last year. I was near ordering a new release bearing when I discovered it was actually the alternator belt If you have ruled it out though I guess you will not avoid unbolting the gearbox.
yeah well never used the boot anyway. kept dropping on my head. Once I squeezed the last of those speakers in I did just feel like a pratt every time shuffle decided to pull something bassy off my mp3 disc so they didnt last long. so my garage is well sorted for bass now too.
Originally Posted by hot_fiat Ive gone through two sets of 3rd gear synchros on separate C514-6 gearboxes that Ive fitted to my cinq. First one was from a Punto Sporting & the latest is from a 27k panda 100hp. The bottom line is synchro on 3rd (and 4th after enough miles) is weak on the 6-speed. Get it back to the dealer. They know about this - most dealers carry sync rings as stock. Another thing
the car has changed gear - and used reverse - far more due to repeated manoeuvres and junction practice. However all of the gears still select cleanly with the occasional exception of reverse [but no synchromesh has this effect on all of the cars I have driven regardless of mileage]. Despite the hard ride and poor roads there doesnt appear to be any play in the front bushes steering rack etc. If fiat
the panda clocks with the Punto ones. I couldnt find anything about the clutch switch but have decided that it will be for reducing revs in cold start conditions so the user can more easily engage a gear. A function I will do without. This is the first time I have documented a project like this and I am finding it quite useful to gather my thoughts. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ fiat
console. Im going to be having a long hard think at work tonight when bored (working in a petrol station does have its good points at times) and will get back with any thoughts. Im Also going to try and finally get the pages from the dealership manual on the Selecta bits in the My Gallery bit on here so will post links when done Best of luck. Jon. __________________ M ost E asterly P andas - pandaing
was a simple engine - the canbus ecu electrically actuated throttle and general design has beaten me - and I think I want a mk.1 4x4 now or even my old discovery 1 back - I could fix anything on that and it lasted me 5 years without a hitch. Im not a man that likes to rely on main dealers but I have the drawer the line somewhere - Ive spent hours on it already and its probably the last modern fiat
Rusty is looking a bit tatty now corroded tailgate bonnet doors and it was painted with cheep tractor paint. So the plan its at some point to repainted it. My dad when I was about 11 bought his second panda but the first I remember. He did have a mk1 when I was very young. Anyway the one I remember was a grey sergio tacchini. So my plan with rusty is to make him in to a ST replica as best I can within reason so il need to find out the paint code. Iv already bought the decals from Italy and found a rear badge on eBay. I would like to replace the trim with green but this may not be possible due to how rare these are so il make do with what is available. Iv got a good bonnet and tailgate and plan to sort out the door bottoms as they rant to bad A quick pic off Google for those that havent seen one before This will not be an accurate replica as I would like to keep the 4x4 side trims and rear badge so maybe some sort of ST 4x4 hybrid. __________________   Quote   19-01-2014   10 rustypanda From Scrap yard to road   Join Date Apr 2008 Location Colyford Devon Posts 208 Thanks 6 Trader Rating 0   Re Rusty the lucky panda The heater in rusty is so poor and with my wife dressed up like shes going sking to keep warm when we take rusty out I thought it about time I investigated the issue. So with the heater box out I set about taking the valve off problem of course was the nuts were so corroded the bolts just turned. I used a small disc cutter to remove the nut and take the vale off. Valve was fine so I blow in to the matrix and it was very blocke I used compressed air power washer to no avail. Still blocked so I took the end off to have a better look. All the tubes were solid looked like rad weld had been used in the past and had going off like concrete so order a new rad it was. I went for the cheapest option from my parts supplier just the matrix but when it turned up it also had a new valve attached Slightly different to the old one but I got it to work I had previously bought new cables for the heater box which I also changed. What a difference Just got to sort out the heavy clutch now and swop the gearbox for the low mileage one jumpinjacks sold me then its body work time. If any one would like the old but working heater valve ( white type two bolt fixing) let me know __________________   Quote   19-01-2014   11 purple haze Beware the panda Face.   Join Date Aug 2008 Location 1 Dune st Riyadh Posts 6987 Thanks 266 Trader Rating 3   Re Rusty the lucky panda A grey Sergio you say.... A bit like my one then... httpwww.fiatforum.commembers-mot...-tacchini.html
Originally Posted by KozmoNaut Itll hustle along quite smartly but youll be lacking the stiffened suspension from the 100HP so be prepared for a lot of body roll. Itll be plenty quick around roundabouts and corners but itll roll enough that it can be somewhat disconcerting. Also be aware that you may have to upgrade the clutch due to the increased torque. Ive read a few reports of people having to have the clutch replaced before even 20K miles on a bone stock MJ. On the other hand Ive got 55K km on mine with the original clutch and not even a hint of slipping. In either case dont be sloppy with the clutch or youll kill it within a few thousand miles. Fraguzz has posted a bit about a tuned MJ I think hes up to 105hp(115) or so and according to him theres a very definite limit to how much torque the stock clutch can hold so he fitted an aftermarket unit. YMMV. Youre right though my philosophy is not to keep cars beyond too many miles and drive them like they were stolen. And never to have them serviced. You can probably only get away with this on Polish built fiats since the 3 cinqs 500 and 7 Seicentos testify. NEVER buy a car I have owned.
My MJT started making slight rubbing noises from the front brakes about a week (100 miles) before its 24K service. The day before it became a grinding noise. Oops I think you can work out what that meant. The pads on the nearside had worn down to the rivets and badly scored the disc. I made an appeal to fiat more in hope than expectation. It was declined. I must admit I was very surprised by how quickly
heel and toe. The only thing that concerns me is that when slowing down I tend to do down through the box as well as barke is this really that bad for the carengineclutch Surely the engineclutch is designed to take such loads. Any insite would be more then helpful. The slightly pedantic answer would be that brake pads discs are expensive but significantly cheaper than a clutch or gearbox... The pandas
Originally Posted by udtrev I always plant the pedal to the floor when changing gear I know then the clutch is disengaged. This may sound dumb but have you checked its not getting stuck under the mat This happened on our Eleganza and to some other members as discussed here httpwww.fiatforum.companda-new1...ing-floor.html
to flick back and forwards(assuming the gearstick is sitting correctly) then you may have a problem with the gear selector cable. (easy to replace and rarely gives trouble) The ECU (electronic control unit) rarely screws up and I have had no problem with mine I settled into the habit of checking the gearbox oil every three months and have only topped it up it twice. One problem with the Selecta pandas
Aircon is worth having as the interior of a panda can get quite hot even in a British summer and it takes away the need to drive with the windows open. Aircon also helps the windscreen to demist all year round. pandas are tough and reliable. Common faults are misaligned front wheels leading to abnormal tyre wear failure of the electric powered steering relatively early wear of front brake discs and
Thanks John - I did make a start. Everything has now been disconnected prior to supporting the engine and actually dropping the gearbox. A bit silly and premature but I did fit the 5-speed gear lever into the car to give me a little bit of encouragement and a taste of things to come. Ive cleaned all the gunge off the lever and gaiter and after a polish ) it looks rather nice p BTW the car is standing on gravel so its extremely uncomfortable to say the least ... Jobs to come Press-ganging an assistant (one who is sympathetic to fixing old bangers so that rules out my father in law) Dropping the gearbox Fitting the new clutch Taking off the bits that the scrappie left on the replacement gearbox Fitting the replacement gearbox Looking for the bits and pieces I removed earlier Putting it all back together again Praying as I start the engine and lift the clutch pedal ... er thats it Steve the elder statesman Tries to drive a panda 1000CL  but still has a sense of humour rule (Im on Stephen.Yensensiemens.com and )