From what ur sayin mine might be the same had the clutch changed after chiping my jtd now about 8000 miles later it judders doesnt wanna go in some hears in the moring and hates reverse and still slips in every gear apart from 1st so do I have this prob or not trying to follow threads of how to blead the clutch and so on job by job to see if it is that could do with a deffo though any certain ways of noing if oil getting in to clutch
Get yourself down the garage I ignored my jumpin out of gear problem and blew the gearbox up they aint cheap.
Is it worth paying out for gearbox if it is that or just getting one from scrap yard and fitting it
Cheers i just ordered a seal for mine today...turns out my recent wishbone breakage goosed the seal aswell.. Ive done these on other cars....All ive had to do before is undo the strut from the wishbone at the ball joint...and that coupled with full lock is usually enough to pop the driveshaft out of the box. Also if you remove the bottom turbo hose to intercooler(2 minute job) it makes a much easier job of topping up. Great photos and post. Thanks Marty.
Thanks for the tip for poping out the drive shaft Ill definately be giving that a try when I get the proper spares. As for the turbo mines the 1.6 petrol so its all coolant pipes in the way I got the oil in though with a bit of manoevring
CV joint...its clicking on full lock yeah Have a look at condition of boothgaiter on sriveshaft on that side.... Chances are its perished and cv joint subsequently dried out and worn. Easy enough to replace if your into diy. Marty.
i love me diy but where do i get a 27mm socket for the centre hub on the cheap
Be worth buying a socket set. One that goes from 10 mm to 30 mm is common enough and would payfor itself in no time. Did u check out cv condition If you cant change it straight away pack it up with grease in the meantime. Marty.
Email me mate if you want to meet somewhere or come to harlow i can lend you one..
Ive just done a post on how I did this job in the Yahoo groups multipla group another useful source of stuff on the Multi. Ive copied it below. Hope it helps. Ok. Just had to replace a fascia lamp. Was sick of not being able to read the heater temperature dial. There are instructions on the forum on how to remove the panel and do this but I found them a little disjointed so here is how I did it. You
Originally Posted by T14086 Your post could refer to any make of car not just fiats . This is true however of all of the cars I have owned and driven (only one prior to the multipla was a fiat ) I have never once had a catastrophic failure of an alternator and shaft and yet now am aware of at least one other occurrence in the same model. I assume you do not think this is a common fault with modern
Cheers JTDMan you sure know your stuff.I can not really afford 2 cars lost my job just before xmas.No jobs local and we need a car for family so sold bike to get the alfa why fiat off the road.Love my bikes so it was hard to see her gobut once fiat back on road can look further for job now have a car for transport. Well had a little play with multipla this afternoontook the os wishbone off and the
You talkin about the drivers side shaft then yes undo the 6 bolts swing the shaft over like on the pass side (i know its tight that side i may have jacked the engine up to do this) then the stubby bit thats left in the box i just undid the bearing retainer that goes around the shaft on the drivers side then tapped on the flange (oh err) where id just removed the allen bolts from . So you knocking from
Originally Posted by bikes-for-me Cheers JTDMan you sure know your stuff.I can not really afford 2 cars lost my job just before xmas.No jobs local and we need a car for family so sold bike to get the alfa why fiat off the road.Love my bikes so it was hard to see her gobut once fiat back on road can look further for job now have a car for transport. Well had a little play with multipla this afternoontook
Originally Posted by widemouthfrog What did you think of the Croma Not a fiat as you know it but a Vauxhall Vectra C with a fiat body. So many parts are GM That I started a sticky thread. The car themselves are for comfort and are spacious Mjet engines powerful either a 120hp 1.9 8v or a 150bhp 1.9 16v or the storming 200bhp Alfa 5 pot engine the 2.4 20v engine. Suspension is weak tyre wear electrical
Hello again Folks The continuing story... nearly gave up on the clutch repairlost my bottle this weekend when the NS drive shaft bolts appeared to be seizedsolid and I couldnt get the starter motor undone. Saturday I was freezing my a off as there was an icy wind blowing right up my kilt... However all was not lost as shall be revealed below... Progress so far at the end of the second weekend (about
Is there a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust when it does this If not read this thread httpwww.fiatforum.commultipla27...-controll.html If there is a lot of smoke it could be a problem with the turbocharger shaft seals.
I unbolted the alternator this way I could nearly face them to myself and see what I was doing. As I unbolted the alternator the top spacer fell out I heard it but didnt see it never mind Ill make another and maybe glue it in place on refitting a new alternator. I didnt need to shift the engine on its mounts or mess about with the drive shaft. Attached Thumbnails     __________________ fiat
exact same problem as i had its the crank shaft sensor mate they cost you 29.95 from fiat brand new and takes around 1 hour to fit i have no macanical experience and i done mine although it was a bit tricky but got there in the end and my multipla runs fine now mine was off road for 10 months because we didnt know what was wrong with it untill i joined this forum lol
Originally Posted by multipete ZC 75 synth[from fiat ] or sae 7590 ep .you will need 2 lts. remove 12 mm allen key at front of gear boxlevel plug next to reverse lamp switch and check the oil level.if very low cure oil leak if any.[oil should be level with bottom of threads with plug out].under neath passenger drive shaft is the drain plugfacing the passenger wheel again 12mm.remove plugdrain oilrefill
I think its a bit of a design fault. I had to replace my last clutch after 25k miles. Not good . There could be something in what pb says but Im not sure how you check that input and output shafts are aligned . Ive always had clutch judder when pulling away at low revs even after fitting a new DMF and clutch. Remember this thread httpwww.fiatforum.commultipla32...nal-notes.html After my current work
[quoteCoastcard1264254] Is there a Throttle position sensorpotentiometer on these If so where[ quote] I dont know. If the petrol multiplas got one logically it would be on the same shaft that the throttle cable carrier is mounted on pulling the cable turns the carrier which opens the air intake and operates the potentiometer. A fiat agent could check the diagnostics but quite a few independent garages
At the risk of being repetitive. Look from under the car at the top of the gearbox. You will see 2 selector levers each with the cable terminal on top. This is a swivel joint held on by a spring clip. Just check and see how looseworn these are. If they are very floppy then be suspicious. This is just the case of a member on the multipla owners forum with identical problems. Variations of performance
Can you post a picture of the leak Unless theres been some severe damage to the gearbox casings (i.e. from hitting something) the usual places to get a leak are where the three drive shafts emerge - namely the input shaft (from the engine via the clutch) and the two output shafts where drive goes from the gearbox to the front wheels (one on each side of the differential housing which is part of the
Originally Posted by widemouthfrog Can you post a picture of the leak Unless theres been some severe damage to the gearbox casings (i.e. from hitting something) the usual places to get a leak are where the three drive shafts emerge - namely the input shaft (from the engine via the clutch) and the two output shafts where drive goes from the gearbox to the front wheels (one on each side of the differential
(in effect sending the power train via another route between the two shafts through other meshing gears) gets slack and cant hold itself in. An alternative would be to get a scrap gearbox. You might be lucky and get a box from a 2-3 year-old car or at least a low mileage one and then all you will need is a days labour to pay. But also replace the clutrch whilst you are in there. A lady on the UK multipla
Hi All Just a quick update the noise that was left after i had fixed the drive shaft was due to one of the wish bones bolts shredding the threads. I replaced the wish bone with a new one and the no noise since. The multipla has now well over the one hundred thousand miles on the clock.
Originally Posted by turbo_pib hi everybody i bought a 2001 multipla 110 elx jtd in may so far im loving the car beautifull engine and drives really well some things thought are buggering me 1st) glow plug light stay lit flashing after starting car and then goes off... engine runs spot on and mpg are good so what is it 2nd) there is a noise coming from engine only from lock to lock...is like a vibrating
Cheers Momoe You dont know where i can download a full manual for the multipla 2002 do you please and i think i am going to get a new cv boot and bearing and try that aswell i have towed on the drive shafts and there is no play at all it feels as tho the wheel is going to fall off when cornering
Aaaaaaaaaaggggghhhhhhhh These multipla clutches are pure bastards to change ritenough Things have obviously changed since the last time i did one Jeez i must buy some decent tools on monday like some allen key sockets for the drive shafts . And when did seperating the lower ball joint become such a Lord i thought i would have removed the gearbox by now HAim not even near Hmm i wonder if ive got any bushmills left
You will have to take the gearbox off when changing the clutch then it should be no problem changing the inner CV boot. The only special tool I needed was to release a 36 mm nut which releases the drive shaft. I started to hear the bearing noise from the clutch area after six weeks the clutch was unable to engage and I changed it. The bearing had then sized and the pressure plate fingers where worn badly. Here you can find a useful guide to the clucth change httpssites.google.comsitefiatmultiplaHomerepairs
If I understand Shepherd correctly this mount is sprung-side (i.e. not part of the unsprung drivetrain) so things like speed bumps shouldnt affect it. Thats why Im a bit alarmed by the picture - that failures been caused by the enginegearbox moving on its mountings Still I suppose it shows that those mountings definitely serve a purpose. My JTD always fires up with a hell of a clunk. I suppose you could get end loadings transmitted along the line of the half-shafts as the suspension travels (are the shafts splined to accommodate this) but that would be pretty poor geometry design by fiat if true.
Thanks for the pic. Went to local dealer for a diffgearbox input shaft seal for drive shaft and a couple of bolts but got the Im not the usuall guy who works for fiat ... it is Saturday come back Monday and they will order it for you So a weekend of the car sitting on the drive and probably there all week until I get some time in the evenings to put it back together... . got any ideas of the part
Also a used to not like fiats now own one. A pleasure to drive. Exept for cam belttensioner and idler fan belt &tensioner that has been replaced what can it be The only ones left are alternator and power steering pump. How do I get the alternator drive pully off the shaft to replace the bearings. I is a pully that only grabs in one direction. Does it screw off the shaft or pull off.