contamination. 4. Yep. Change fuel filter regularly too. 5. The Cit guys seem to prefer Rapeseed oil as it is thinner than corn & others. 6. Lidl currently cheapest for rapeseed oil 56ppl but sold in crappy 1 lit bottles. 7. Little support for heating the oil even in winter as once the engine is up to 60deg the fuel leaving the pump is hot enough. If your car is worth a bit (but youre driving a fiat
You can take a feed from the cooling system run it through a water jacket and feed the oilthrough it pre-filter. Just helps warm the oil a little before filtration. Remember there is a fuel heater built into the fuel filter housing. Aditional heating can be achieved using something called the Rapetherm4 Basically 4 glow plugs in a cylinder with a thermostat to stop them getting too hot.
And what about diesel for heating system Has anyone of you tried it Thanks.
Originally Posted by jfm And what about diesel for heating system Has anyone of you tried it Thanks. Do you mean red diesel pariffin or kerosene
it was the diesel pump after all. after changing it just done 140 miles so far no problems. moral of my story is not use too thick used cooking oil especialy lard and palm oil which freeze like soap when cold. just get bio diesel (B70 or blend 7030 summer 5050 winter) from ur local supplier.
rapeseed oil has a low viscosity try that.
Ehh i wouldnt block them off just yet as the leak may be venting excess pressure from something it might be helping you in some way its quite unknown yet. Whats your oil level like by the way on my fiat they decided to do the PCV return back into the air intake on the inlet rubber piping so if you want to take a picture of the air intake system (The rubber bit) i will attempt to help you identify it i wouldnt locktite anything just yet thought mate. Migs
Thanks to you all for the speedy and helpful replies. Heater matrix leak sounds promising (if thats the right word). I must admit that I have had to top up the cooling system and she could be using a little. Knowing me Ill sponge the stuff up and issue any passengers with a pair of Wellington boots until warmer weather encourages mechanical tinkering.
Originally Posted by grahamw48 Thanks to you all for the speedy and helpful replies. Heater matrix leak sounds promising (if thats the right word). I must admit that I have had to top up the cooling system and she could be using a little. Knowing me Ill sponge the stuff up and issue any passengers with a pair of Wellington boots until warmer weather encourages mechanical tinkering. Hello Keep a very close eye on it. If the leak gets worse then it could cook your engine.
Originally Posted by auto_blanco Well evidence is an M70 BMW V12 engine that someone stuffed radweld in it was overheating because of an airlock nothing more...which did something reacted or something and turned into a think goop that blocked up the bottom of the radiator and coolant return around the transmission cooler pipes causing the gearbox to overheat and destroy itself to which I had to fit
by grahamw48 Ah well theres nothing like a good urban legend eh. Fortunately cooling systems are much the same as theyve always been...not much rocket science involved and those of us with a modicum of intelligence do follow the user instructions. Ta for the well-researched advice anyway. Some people dont want to hear the advice of people on a Forum dedicated to a certain make in this case fiatS
Over filling the engine oil can cause a few problems. The crankcase breathing system often doesnt work correctly although most will slowly loose the excess out of the breather usually into the air intake. Whilst you have excessive oil the crankcase pressure is usually too high so the chances of oil seals (ie crank) blowing are possible as are leaks from other gasketed joints. The crankshaft webs often
Originally Posted by oilrag Lets hope you dont have to start a new thread titled JTD glue........ How long are you planning to keep the car for Regards Did you not read the word heater Any system that heats the oil to 40degrees C will mean the viscosity is the same as diesel and 100% veg will be trouble free. I dont know how yet but ill let you know how I get on.
Yes I have wondered. It seems that it is being burnt by the engine. The molecules consisting glycerine must still be small enough to be ingested. The fuel system seems fine so far. Ill be running the car like this until something fails then I will repair said item and consider further modifications. If no one is willing to try this world has no hope of going green. I am a competent mechanic and am
Not huge amounts but still more than it should. Thats 0.5mlkm i wouldnt have though that would cause clouds of smoke. It may just be as suggested in this cold weather condensation in the exhaust system being burnt off. Also what engine is it How many miles Last service
Originally Posted by mountainmachine Not huge amounts but still more than it should. Thats 0.5mlkm i wouldnt have though that would cause clouds of smoke. It may just be as suggested in this cold weather condensation in the exhaust system being burnt off. Also what engine is it How many miles Last service 98000 km it was last service at 95000km 1.6 L engine
Fort&233 is the stuff you want. Youll need a tame garage though as its for the trade only If youre running smokey you need to think about oilair change too and maybe an engine flush.
fuel cleaner 95% paraffin Can use litre Heating oil in tank to alter the inject temp thus cleaning tips.
eaten into alot so i thought heck rip the crust off So we start by removing the rear cover (Where latch is) and popping the plugs to remove the mareas main carpet completely it makes things so much easier in the end the result is alot of objects in a rather (Orderly ) fassion P. Ok i lied about orderly but it honestly works (Does anyone else hate them useless half pint spare tyres Come on has fiat
There should be only AC oil and dye rest of the stuff should be airother gas contaminants (unless you got gaping hole in front that sucks sand in). Sucking in the vacuum clears the system. You need to remove the dash if you change the pressure valve evaporator with it. Image The fan on dash circulates air for the auto-aircon (cabin temperature sensor). Cooling fan relay.... just drive faster. marea
So you only had the system open for couple hours fiat specs six hours for the oil to go bad when system is open. Only add 10 more grams than you took out. Calculate rest from these Compressor oiling the compressor (as you did) Amounts Pressure neilneil thanked for this post
There may not be so many ex marea owners but there are quite a few ex Bravo owners who can make comparisons but it depends what youre asking are they as costly to run as our marea Without knowing what your marea running costs are and whether you simply mean fueloiltyres etc or total running costs including maintenance As marea to Stilo is a big jump up in technology with lots more gadgets then you
Error on milage display is aircon related. The hose on top of the reservoir is small so just seeing coolant going there should be enough its not really a part of the circulation process more like a return line for the pressure in the system. Does the rad get hot With diagnostics you can read the temperature from ecu the dash gauge and ecu have their own sensors (in same housing at thermostat) and dash gauges are known to show their own stuff from time to time due to poor contacts on BBM (sometimes sorted just by slamming your hand on top of dash). Rattle...change your oil and filter with cheap synthetic drive a week or two and throw good oil and new filter. Reading the dipstick is its own science on the 20v hot engine and wait 10 mins before checking on level ground and this times 4 (putting 5l in mine after full drain showed way over max on the dipstick when cold for short while but now when warm its under and hasnt moved in months if checked cold its still way over the max so kinda trap there fiat rates the sump and filter at 5l 5.5l for full system).
Be careful with bio diesel on the fiat TD engines . the TD100 uses a lucas injector pump which has rubber componentsseals that are not compatible with vegetable oil bio diesels. There are several websites which show compatability of engines fuel systems with different types of bio fuels diesels so it would be worth a look there first.. Owen.
The injection system warning lamp isnt related to the oil filter. Its telling you that somewhere in the system there is an intermittent problem - if you have the car plugged in to a diagnostic testing machine it should be able to tell you the nature of the fault. My marea one comes on every now and then maybe once a month for half a minute or so then goes off. According to the manual this isnt something
Oh yeah miles sorry[o)] and also after about 5 years if low mileage. (Is there such a thing as kilometerage) Purge is a strong oil cleaner that you put in before an oil change to clean out the oil system. Do you get Wynns products over there I also put some valve train cleaner in the oil when my VVT was sticking and that appears to have cured the problem.
to normal. I would recommend that you use the K-seal product and then do a complete mini service including oil and filter change. But this time add Ametech Engine restore oil. I will provide you with web info from where you can buy these. 1. httpwww.k-seal.co.ukk-seal.html 2. httpcgi.ebay.co.ukQUENTIN-WILSON...QQcmdZViewItem Hope this do good to your engine and it has work wonders in previous fiat
nice and tidy in the bay i have vacum tubes undone loose oil rebreather and fuel filter unattached diesel everywhere so i shall have to take the wifes xsara picasso to work tomorrow horrible car. good job shes off work pregnant however dont fancy paying to hire a car for a week. when i get back from work i will have about an hour of good daylight to finish of the tidying up and refitting of the marea.
Hi Guys. These diy re-gas kits are they any good At the garage they apply vacum for 10 min before adding 600g of R134a and oil tracing color. Does this kit only contain R134A or oil as well Ive changed nearly the whole AC system compressor most of the tubes the receiver drier and the triple switch. But i need to re-gas nearly every year (2 years old original compressor leaking again). So i would like a cheap re-gas sollution. Cheers Michael
the bottom hose on the rad just look on the rad and remove the lower of the 2 hoses dont forget to bleed the system when you fill it up again if you remove the hose that goes to the oil filter you will lose alot of oil.
Fridges are slightly different. The job of the receiverdrier is to filter and trap any debris that could have got into the system during manufacture or service. You could also say it acts as a circuit protector in case a component like the pump stuffs itself and sends metal filings and debris through the circuit. The receiver drier also acts as a storage source for oil and refrigerant when neither
Sebastian Yeah thats the one. Same as mine. It can take time for the oil to get through the system into the sump . If you measure it again on level ground after running the engine it should be ok with 6l of oil. The factory fill is 5.5l and a normal fill after an oil change is 5l. If the oil is over the max when you check then you should drain some out as too much oil can damage the engine. Good luck
Could be an airlock in the oil system cam spray or tappets perhaps. (Sometimes you have to re-oil tappets by hand ( unlikely following an oil change though). Check oil level regularly for a couple of days. If you have a new air filter it can change the tone of the engine on idle as the air flow is different. If your pots were really bad then doing the decoke could just have loosened things up a bit.
Hi billybug and welcome to our forum. Tappets will not be a cheap job you can get an oil additive that will quiet them down. Try a drive chain cleaner first then a tappet quietener if that doesnt work. You will need to replace your cam belt very quickly you are in the risky mileage band. Check that you do not have an airlock in your coolant system. Does the heater blow hot or cold Airbag light requires
Or use an independent wholl have everything he needs to test which coolant is in if there are any leaks dispose safely and legally of any old coolant etc etc for around &16340-50. Just remember you cant mix coolant types so be sure you have the exact one thats in your system already. Its worth shopping around and if you think the DIY kit suits you then thats fine. Keep us posted on how it goes etc.