Originally Posted by trackdayqueen Is it just me that thinks a radiator lasting seven years is anything but impressive when cars (even really cheap ones) normally have a 10 year design life I know in this case the rad was damaged rather than failing but I would expect a rad and heater matrix to last 15-20 years in all honesty At least thats my experience with older cars. As an example my current car
Quote Originally Posted by milothefierce What do you think Is the extra cooler with the bypass a good idea Why not just purchase a good quality after market radiator Leave the cooling setup as was intended by Nissan. Koyo makes good radiators. There are a handful of others. Stay away from Calsonic since that is the brand currently in your truck that has a high failure rate. Craig C.
Hmm never thought about just replacing the entire radiator to prevent the problem (Im running a little slow this week). After pricing the koyo radiators it seems like thats a good option for preventive maintenance. Thinking I may return the transmission cooler and go for the radiator. After all my truck has a lot of miles on it so Id better not tempt fate... Thanks yall
Jack the wheels. If it turns hardbad brake. Use temp gun it will show the differance better. 30 from sears . You can also find cold spots in radiators ac temps etc. If tires wear from a bad alignment they will not run true anymore. Same can be said for out of balance for too long.
Cross member very prone to rust. Radiator can come off without draining it. Just lift it up and support it although if yours has already fell off I dont know what the radiators sat against as they sit onto the cross member on a mk2 (presuming mk1 is the same) No idea how much theyd cost new and any youll find in a scrap yard will be rusted to hell aswell fiat_freak thanked for this post
the hood will be Samco hosing with the best routing possible. My intention is to get maximum cooling into the bay so Ill be having a no grill a giant FMIC in the bumper and various radiators for water and oil mounted in the bumper. Yeah I have similar worries about brakes too. I will have to sort these things out as I encounter them though hopefully Ill discover a full disk upgrade from another fiat
reg) was hoping if someone could point me in the right direction for radiators or even the part number. Also my wife has a 1.2 and it seams to have a flat spot if you tap the accelator i does rev past it but seams to hesitate this has effected pulling off.. any ideas thanks Regarding the parts Id say check scrap yards or cars that are breaking on ebay like this one. httpcgi.ebay.co.uk2000-MK2-fiat-...item3a62fe56da
Originally Posted by faster4_tec can you still buy the line accersory rear mud flaps (well front too) for the mk1 punto just fed up with all this mud everywhere AND I am actually toying with the idea of getting a suzuki sj or lada niva to replace the punto Ive had an SJ410 413 and an toying with the idea of putting the vitara 1600 engine in one as both the 1ltr and 1.3 are erm... useless whereas the
Im thinking of doing this (in fact I should have copyrighted the idea) but to my mind the stock V6 doesnt have anything like enough power. Youd need a 16v 3.2 or --- to match the Cossie one --- some serious turbocharging. It has the huge merit of being a set up used in countless Stratos replicas the spring rates etc. are known (or knowable). Originally Posted by CentoEvo theres lots of little things
Just had another quick nosey under the bonnet this time. And your right about the left headlight got an issue there See the attachment some cracked plastics. Think its gonna need the bodyshop afterall. Not as simple as just swapping the bumper... Attached Thumbnails   __________________   Quote   07-01-2009   8 BenP Get Your Own Title Join Date Jun 2008 Location Surrey Posts 175 Thanks 14 Trader Rating 0   Re Doh - Need a new front bumper Ah... That plastic thats broken on the right hand side of the picture is your front panel which is essentially the carrier for everything at the front of the car - headlights bumper supports radiators bonnet catch etc so it is going to be a bit more expensive that you first thought. Cooling system will have to be drained down too at a guess as the front panel doesnt usually come off without taking the rad out. The OS headlamp has broken too and whilst those lugs can sometime be glued its so hard to get them back exactly where they came from that for headlamp accuracy youd really want to be replacing the unit. Ill have a look on the system at work when I get there to see how long is given for doing a front panel and will also get some prices for you so you at least have a ball park idea of what its going to cost. Ben
Engine mounts Exhaust Manifold - Cinq Sporting Airbox - dont bother...get an induction system Loom - Theres an interesting one...as the 899cc and Sporting ECUs are fundamentally identical from late 1995 onwards so they effectively use the same loom - some parts may need lengthening to reach certain components. As for the Mk1 loom that uses all the same sensors as the Mk2 (which adds fuel to my idea
No idea. AFAIK all Cinq radiators are the same. Parrt number will be in ePer but everyone gets them from eBay.
Thanks again for your response and trying to help me out. Where is the heater matrix and how do I go about getting the air out of it It just says on the tin that it seals quickly and prevents leaks in radiators gaskets hair cracks in engine blocks and cooling coils. The head gasket has blown before but was fixed about year or so ago. My mechanic said the loss of water could simply be just down to the fact that its an old motor and he also said he couldnt find any leaks or holes or cracks etc The water pump was also replaced before as has many parts in the car cam belt being another. Does anybody else have any ideas The more input the better. Please help here as I am clueless to what the problem might be.
it is still coming on during short trips. Heater only blowing cold air. To be honest havent specifically checked for leaks but not noticed any puddles etc like before HG repaired. My question is this - do I add more coolant (as onlysmall bottle added) or is it something dreadful which is going to require more cash Ive also seen this K Seal Radweld stuff - is that worth a go This car is ideally
out as soon as you get moving again (and noting that the fan is cutting in) suggests two possibilities - With engine speed up the pump works faster and is able to move the water around at an acceptable speed (I have a different car where the factory recommendation is to counter-intuitively rev the engine a bit to get the water moving. This doesnt work noticeably on the Punto but explains the idea).