Originally Posted by fast_fiat2000hotmail.com using an alloy plate httpwww.demon-tweeks.co.ukproduc...CentreConsole Im making a plate to go therehaving some gauges and switches there. Youll need to remove the coloum plastic surround thingy 3self tappers. and then the ignition barrels i have removed are something like a few 10mm bolts and one i did needed a slot putting in the bolts or a socket hammering on them as they were smooth
Originally Posted by Brooky Im making a plate to go therehaving some gauges and switches there. Youll need to remove the coloum plastic surround thingy 3self tappers. and then the ignition barrels i have removed are something like a few 10mm bolts and one i did needed a slot putting in the bolts or a socket hammering on them as they were smooth have seen them smooth bolts had me stumped for a while but sloting or nocking a socket on sounds easy enough lol
Originally Posted by fast_fiat2000hotmail.com the what lol The ring around the barrel that talks to your key to switch off the immobiliser. Cheers D
Originally Posted by fast_fiat2000hotmail.com nice one rallycinq Originally Posted by custard fast fiat do you know how to use multiquote Originally Posted by fast_fiat2000hotmail.com i am computer retarded lol mark Originally Posted by Brooky I dontis there a guide to it Originally Posted by rallycinq The ring around the barrel that talks to your key to switch off the immobiliser. Cheers D Originally
My fan goes off with the ignition key. Has it been done before or does anyone have any ideas for the best way to change the wiring so the cooling fax will work independently from the ignition switch i.e. stay on after you turn off the engine
Originally Posted by matto1992 mine is a t reg sporting spi and mines goes off when i turn key off but my old p reg cinq sx 899cc didnt turn off turned itself off with the key out the ignition Pepo hes got a SPI but it switches off when key is turn off and that is not the first time i heard the sei does that Is defo weird. ming
Originally Posted by ycming Pepo hes got a SPI but it switches off when key is turn off and that is not the first time i heard the sei does that Is defo weird. ming Hi Ming Ooooooh mine is S reg SPI sporting and runs fan with key removed. The interesting things is does his have a relay as mine wont with a relay the thermo switch does not have to take the fan current and could be cheaper... But parts are then much more difficult... Noel
Hi Ming Yes having theories burnt is disarming. But if any one with an early SPI sporting cinq or Sei fits a switch from the later SPI Sei sporting the switch would not last long unless fiat did not change the switch merely added a high current relay. Maybe it was a safety issue they did not want the fan runing unattended mine will run for several minutes in car parks when hot. Noel
When you have the car connected to a jump source does the red battery light come on when the key is in position 1 Have you checked the earth leads Not just looked at them but removed refinished and refitted Cheers D
Originally Posted by Cooter cheers dave. now why wouldnt the aa bloke have known that or can it only be heard in chinks The AA dude is much brighter than me when it comes to fault diagnosis but his other key theory was BS My ignition seems looser than other cars there must be a switch or contact point in there somewhere for the fuel pump and the way I had the key meant it wasnt catching. Liam
It could be the main fuel relay had built up some carbon deposits on the contacts. The switching on on off a few times has cleared the carbon off. This happens on the PAS relay on my MR2 (well known fault). Id see how it goes. If it is this then switching on and of a few times usually cures it.
remove covers on steering colum put key in and turn it then a press the button that you should see about an inch up the switch holder plastic bit
im assuming you would need a new ignition barrel door locks ecu which will all work with a second set of keys. You could get round the expense with the key problem if you can get hold of a lock and key set... run the ignition off a battery kill switch few relays and an immob of some sort... (like using a relayed headunit remote as a source of switched live... meaning you cant start the car without the radio face attatched). Then for the ecu use one that isnt coded (virgin ecu or the mapped ones on here if the guy still makes them...).... Your best really just to get hold of the barrel locks and ecu from a donor fiat and transfer it all over. johnson550 thanked for this post
the cut off switch go on the main positive lead from the battery and wire it up correctly with the resistor that should come with the switch. I dont know how the ECU will react to being turned off daily as it will reset its self evertime (not a problem for me as im using a different ecu ) Starter buttons....now then i got mine off ebay dont wire it in to how they recomend as it bypasses they key so
On a cento there is the position that you can wind the key back one position after pushing the button in to operate the side lights with the ignition off. If you leave this circuit operable the supply will feed back through the ignition and keep the engine running even with the cut out switched off. I fitted an extra small switch to disable this feature when needed. Cheers PD
are you saying that ill be able to start the car if the key is in that position even if the ignition switch is off or that ill be able to start the car regardless of my cutoff switch if that circuit is left operable
What exactly did you do when you installed a push button start Do you have a separate ignition switch or do you still have to turn the key to ignition and then press the start button Do you hear the fuel pump working when you turn on the ignition (before trying to crank it) Does the engine turn over
Hi guys ive done everything too the car apart from the timing belt now hoping too get that finished the next few days What happened when i tried too take the nut off the steering lock barrell i accidently damaged the tamper proof brass screws and one of the nuts and its stuck on the steering lock Whilst trying too hacksaw file chisel the nut off i managed too split the switch that starts the engine
Originally Posted by rallycinq Put it in the main starter cable leaving the battery connected to the rest of the car. It wont act as a cut out out but it will stop anyone starting it without the key. You would need to put the alternator feed onto the live side just in case it was turned while the engine was running. Its actually a bit of a sod to wire up correctly because of the permanent live feed
I too have the same problem with my daughters 52 plate. My thoughts are to get some blanks cut so they work the ignition and discreetly secure the original coded key near to the ignition switch. I know the car will not be secure and will lead to problems in the event of a theft claim but it can be a short term option untill some pennies can be saved up for a cloned key.
Yes RC it cuts the fuel and spark. The starter motor is turning over no probs but no spark. I cant find the same ECU with the immobiliser and box with keys anywhere. So I have bought the 6F.S0 ECU set off ebay which includes the ignition locks and key. Im hoping it will work but if it doesnt im back to square one. Any other ideas on what might be the problem ayone
You could check the transducer cables (run from the ignition switch) or try the red key. Id say see if thheres fuel past the injector but usually if the crank sensor goes theres no ECU warning light. Might be worth PMing gazzaman or putting somethin in the wanted section. dwholden thanked for this post
Finally got the barrel out - it was just stiff after all and after using a syringe to inject light oil down the sides of it i was finally able to remove it. The bad news is that the reason for the odd behavior noted in the above post is that the lugs on the rear of the barrel which engage with the ignition switch have sheared off - so im looking at a new barrelignition key. so 1 anyone know the part
The key works in 2 ways -- mechanically (to unlock the doors) electronically to switch off the immobiliser (for the ignition to work). So it looks like the bend has buggered it mechanically for one door. Id pop some aluminium sheet over some vice jaws and clamp it up to straighten it. Alternatives include a McCritch chip (can do away with the immobiliser -- fit an aftermarket one) or getting Timsons to cut you a new (mechanical only) key.
when meter is connected and turn on ignition i get power then goes to zero when i proceed to cranking over the engine i get a feed as well and when i let the key off the cranking posistion the feed stops which should be normal so got power took the pumpsender out of the tank and away from the car and used the power probe to see if pump would work which it did checked the wires that run the pump for
It could even be taped to the antenna wire right up near the switch or inside the shroud. Works in proximity to the ignition switch so wasis probably with 15cm or so of it.
You already have a transponder wired to the ignition switch surely Cant see why you need another...........
Interesting posts as I seem to be having similar problems with the smaller S cinquecento a 1996 N reg 899cc The car a very recent purchase by my daughter for no apparent reason would not start again after having just been driven half a mile along to the shops. It seemed that giving a sharp tap on the starter solenoid it would work. From then on the car would start some times but equally not others.
IF THE PROBLEM IS A LOST CODE YOU CAN RECODE THE keyS YOURSELF. First if it is a code problem you will have a amber key symble flashing on your dash. also you should be able to start you car using the red key If this is the case then you will be able to recode the blue keys yourself You must have all three keys at hand (two blue one red) 1.Insert the red key and turn to mar i.e. the possision before
If I can get the small transponder thingy off the ring round the ignition switch can I buy one of these keys off ebay Link httpcgi.ebay.co.ukfiat-TRANSPOND...QQcmdZViewItem ..and have it copied using my existing black key so that I have a proper transponder key where would I get it copied or will it do the job if the transponder is in a small capsule on the key ring does it have to be placed in the centre of that ring thing to work
via eBay link from the forum) Checked every earth strap I can see cleaned tightened and coated with petroleum jelly. What we have still Code key light on Injector light on Starter spins for Britain Engine ticks in the fuel department No sparks at plugs What I am thinking it may be Not a clue.... ECU The ECU fitted to the car is labelled thus CJOLLY56 150 96 IAW 16F .EO IAW 16F .EO2A21 -33 fiat
thanks for the replies ive been testing the lights on our mondeo to see what happens with those lights. ignition off headlights on sidelights only ignition on headlights on lights on as normal ignition on sidelights on sidelights and dim-dip headlights mondeos have a selection on the light switch for parking which puts sidelights on with no dash lights. on my cinq this is what happens (wondered