nah just bolt on and go as far as i know) The fiat Cinquecento Fun While It Runs
Custard Boy is right this is just a bolt on unit. All the tuning is in the ECU . The part you are on about is a mere 160 Euro though so make sure it is that bit Alfa Romeo 156 2.4 JTD (210BHP) fiat Punto JTD (130BHP) fiat Barchetta httpwww.angeltuning.co.uk httpwww.bravo-guide.co.uk THE fiat Bravo site
just got one delivered for 50 euro second hand. car going like a rocket (as quick as a 1.6 rocket can) and only took 5 mins to fit yipee part is actually 165 plus vat bringing it to 200 euros or thereabouts no thanx plus id have to collect it and get it ordered from England 99 brava 100 HSX with not enough mods
thanks for finding that out though haynes manual is da bible 99 brava 100 HSX with not enough mods
doe the 1.6 engine have a dristributor think not mine ( the 1.4 ) has electronic spark timing so.. would bet the 1.6 does to. might you mean the coil pack
warnings and is amber when lit. no not only only diesles all models. 100% definately on my 1.6 and 1.8 there was no engine management light at all not even the symbol on the cluster. same for my 156. the only bravo or brava models i have seen with an engine management light did not have an injector light at all. it changed to the engine symbol to follow other manufacturers but before that every fiat
I found this old thread and I liked the sound of replacing the thermostat insert rather than the whole housing. I have removed and tested and verified that the thermostat insert doesnt work properly any more. However Im now completely stumped about where to actually source a replacement None of the usual web based parts distributors recognise the Mera TV-170 when I search for it. Has anyone successfully sourced a replacement insert for their fiat 1.6 engine Where did you buy it from Thanks Joe
Originally Posted by ilsonemo any images of what is what cus 1-3-4-2 means sod all cheers anyway Its the order in which the engine fires or to which order the plug gets the spark. Its looking from the top of the engine down. (Hence in brackets i put 1 is closest the cambelt). 1-3-4-2 means a lot get the leads on wrong and opps I didnt think from the distributor cap as its labelled and im sure youd of noticed that if your changing them.
there is no distributor cap but the coil packs are labelled - the photo i posted above is off a photo of a brava coil pack
Sorry a bit confused. You say indicates that no electricity is running to the coil. (new battery has been installed) then you say There is juice running into the coil off one of the wires What kind of ignition set up is it contact breaker partial electronic LOW TENSION SIDE If its contact breaker then see if theres a flash at the contacts by pulling apart contacts with a screwdriver with ignition on.
well i am havin trouble finding my multimeter so i used a curcuit test light. it showed no current on the cable that runs to the distributer from the coil. So i assume no juice is runnin past the coil. When the contacts are closed then the LT lead from the coil to the distributor is taken to earth youll only see voltage there when the points are open when the lead is then connected to earth through
got in at the car this mornin...the lead to the run point of the distributor was disconnected and the points were pretty crappy. i set the start at .017 and the run at .019. ran some starter fluid in and rolled it over only to have the starter give out. ordered a new one and will go after it again on sunday (probably). i am also havin a hard time finding the fuel filter....any suggestions
so here it is...i put a new starter in...not a fun task i might add. found out my alternator was also shot but i put the old one back for continuity purposes. rolled it over still no spark. the coil has around 7.4 volts running into it (its new). the distributor has new point and a new condenser (i will have to fight the old one off) when it just sits there aint a lot of power runnin into the alternator
Could be a few reasons that come to mind. I am no garage mechanic but have dabbled quite a bit with engines. Yes it could be the HT leads coil or distributor. I am sure there is something you can do with an amp meter attached to each lead to test them. Also check inside the distributor to make sure the contacts are not black ( normally distributors just pop off with two clips but I am not sure how
If dampness is the problem try spraying WD40 or some other maintenance spray over your leads distributor and coil. tchuey69 thanked for this post
Hi Please be careful with Peter Crago from Probe distributors he never sent me the distributor I payed for. I sent him many mail but I never received the part and he never refund for it.
A friend came and help me but he said that the distributor aint getting no current
distributor they dont have a distributor. i think you mean the coil pack. they commonly fail on pretty much all the bravoa range. its an easy fix so be thankful
I suppose it might affect the ECU regulation of the fuelair mixture as engine is always coldcool running rich Probably affect engine in the long run Not a particularly difficult job (correct tools always helps...so does a Haynes Manual). Most important of all have lots of patience. It can get frustrated at times. This is what I can remember when I had a go myself 1) Drain coolant removal of coolant
Youre right - these are only followers not tappets Why do you replace the tappets Are they worn or stuck Also - will you replace the oil distributor Dunno the name but I mean the spider. Plus its o-ring seals of course as they cause the loss of oil pressure in the spider.
Originally Posted by Tomasso Youre right - these are only followers not tappets Why do you replace the tappets Are they worn or stuck Also - will you replace the oil distributor Dunno the name but I mean the spider. Plus its o-ring seals of course as they cause the loss of oil pressure in the spider. The tappets are noisy the car is running rough so wanted to get that done first. Do i need to replace the oil distributor
jug - you surely have a set of ribe bits if anyone cant get them off the shelf go to a sealey or draper tool distributor they should be able to order you some - if they dont know what they are ask for a catalogue or you can order direct. and buy 2 sets smaller bits will get broken.. Owen.
hi is the coil the distributor where the plug leads go in if so ive bought a new one of those and still no spark some one help please
I dont understand when you say the engine tries but does not want to crank Is the engine turning over ie cranking but just not starting Or is the starter not turning the engine overat all Have you changedchecked the plug leads Do you have an engine top protective cover on Is that wet underneath Have you tried the car without the protective cover on often itll prevent moisture from actually getting
Very pretty - love the colour - I want one Steve 1989 fiat Panda 1000CL Electronic distributor Lotsnlotsnlots of RUST Copper brake pipes Currently immobile with a knackered gearbox Replacement 5-speed box in garage ready to fit ...
Tell me about it ... Steve Tries to drive a Panda 1000CL  but still has a sense of humour (Im on Stephen.Yensensiemens.com and steveyensen.co.uk) 1989 fiat Panda 1000CL Electronic distributor Metamec copper brake pipes Currently immobile with a knackered gearbox ) Replacement 5-speed box and new QH clutch in garage ready to fit and is likely to remain there for some time yet due to my EXTREME LAZINESS (and its cold and wet out there - okay so Im a wimp) ...
First off I dont agree with the tone of Bluejohn but I do kinda agree to his message. Things like a cold radiator while the engine is cooking over are indications of SERIOUS problems. You shouldnt have been driving the car at all. (Even to a garage it would have been better to get a tow) The way he gives his message is not really the best way to do it. But his sentiment of this could have been avoided
the thing youre calling a distributor is a coil pack. they dont really cause occasional starting problems. id suspect the lambda sensor could be the cause if it only occurs when the engine is warm.
Originally Posted by MagnaMorbius Nige Im loving the advertising plug So pound for pound the DIAS is more effective correct You said the DIAS is being tuned for very similar results to the CDA - does that mean that the CDA will give better performance (to be honest if Im going to be spending over 300 notes for an mod and paying more for the insurance I might as well spend a few extra quid to get the
it tells the ecu what position the crankshaft is at and what the speed of rotation is (rpm) which is critical for ignition timing. no signal means no sparks and if your sparkplugs arent sparking it will never start. cars that use a distributor do not need a crank sensor so i guess youve previously owned older cars.
Originally Posted by goodgirl156 .why do you need photos Hi Sometimes people have modified engines under the bonnet. Sometimes people get rid of the ignition coils and go back to a ignition distributor. The photo just saves time all round. The mileage tells you what the chances are of the components reaching the end of their useful life.
wat about distributor it may need cleaning had similar problem with my last car
where about is this distributor thing located and is the starter at the top right of the engine on the bravo or is it located at the bottom
The Bravo 1.6 doesnt have a distributor does it If the battery is new and the alternator is fine then check for a good electrical earth contact at the battery and engine. Its pretty cold so it puts the biggest strain on batteryalternator and starter motor at ths time of year so poor electrical connections anywhere there wilol show up. Once the car warms up then the dampness disappears so end of problem
Originally Posted by Deckchair5 The Bravo 1.6 doesnt have a distributor does it Aint that old mate Uses neg trigger from ecu . Stick a jump lead from the neg battery to engine lift bracket(or bolt etc)& see if it startsquick way of checking the engine earth.
Hi Just change plugs and took it for a spin and did it again when I replace leads do they come off at the end where it would have been distributor cap or are they factory fitted to the cap Also have been reading about over things that might be causing the flat spotdie but they all seem to indicate a backfire as part of the symptons. any ideas as mine is not backfiring. Thanks.
Hi Beefy Yeah the leads just pull off where it would be a distributor but its a bit of a fight. That is actually a coil pack. You can do a resistance test on the coil pack to check its condition. They can cause missfires. Click for bigger image.
first couple of possibilities to check Either ECU is in safe mode (although resetting it should have counted that out) Sparks are gone distributors packed in Spark leads have corroded Cam belts slipped and timings now out (if its drinkin petrol and feels sluggish it could well be that) last one as stupid as it seems is check the handbrake cable and brakes arent draggin sounds stupid but it does happen fairly often hope you figure it out Donny
The HT leads ( each with a spark plug on the end lol ) First use a nice dry cloth and wip any oil muck and stuff of them then from end to end spray the WD40 along the wire to the distributor and allow to dry normally . Also do the same with the coil and anything else you can find under the bonnet with the exception of anything computerised im not sure what WD40 would do to the ECU WD40 is a
I was just at the dealer and ordered some. He said the distributor had only 4 in stock at a price of about 14 EUR (110 NOK). Prices here are so insane I wont be surprised if it is per piece but that would make my day if it was a complete set. I ordered all 4 figuring that was better than none. It looks like I only NEED 2 so Im hoping this will sort me out.
My 1.1 ieS had a similar fault. It was the distributor. A common fault as mentioned above. fiat brava 1.6 HSX fiat Uno 1.1 ieS.
Possibly your distributor. It sounds just like what happened to my 1.1. httpwww.forzafiat.com - the onlin...or fiat owners h6 Click here for pictures of my Uno Click here for pictures of my brava h6
not holding out much hope for your engine. The Lampredi engine is a non-safe engine so the valves often hit the pistons and bend when the cam belt brakes. Of course if you have a FIRE then you are sweet with a broken cam belt and they are really easy to replace. If you have the OHV engine then you wont have a cam belt. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ Current 1987 Uno (1580cc) 1997 brava