Originally Posted by Impact62 friend ran brava jtd fuel dry how do you get the fuel to run through to engine Not knowing the bravoa But most cars with a basic lift pump in the rear tank that humming noise on first ignition Turn ignition on and off about 3 to 4 times Then try cranking However running dry has its problems It means gunge may be sucked up - may require filter change Fuel pumps use the
fuel diesel on fiat brava 100jtd has been run til empty.does anyone know how to prime fuel to engine....is there a manual priming pump on the vehicle. Most Easterly Pandas disliked this post
Originally Posted by Impact62 fuel diesel on fiat brava 100jtd has been run til empty.does anyone know how to prime fuel to engine....is there a manual priming pump on the vehicle. This is your second thread on the same issue in 2 hours. Youve had an answer here on your origional thread httpwww.fiatforum.combravo-brava...mlpost3268068
There is a liftpump in the back. Prime it with the key couple times and the do 10sec start and let the starter cool down for half a minute. Repeat. On old TD you would be cracking the injectorspump open to bleed them but do not even consider it with JTD as it is commonrail type. You could bleed water out of the fuelfilter should have a point somewhere under the housing. Ive poured etherbrake cleaner
your problem sounds exactly like injector failure which is very common on the 1.6. you can check by measuring the resistance of your inejctors any less than 13ohms should be replaced. there is a connector at the right hand side of the fuel rail disocnnect it and then use a multimeter to test the resistance of the injectors use the centre pin as earth and the other 4 pins are each for an injectors test
I checked injectors after your message. Resistances are 16.616.516.816.6 . What else could it be
Youre right We also get suspicious about badly replaced timing belt or non-functioning belt tensor. Now we decided to open the engine and look all the things cams pistons valves intake & throttle on monday. PS Ill put a turbo and independent 4 throttle bodies on my machine. I bought a second-hand intercooler from an Alfa. These are pictures of the Alfa image2.sahibinden.comphotos912big_6382359_77676_y4wy912.jpg
Hi again we opened the upper-end of the engine cams springs valves etc. We saw that valves guides inside diameters are not in the limites. Some of them are bigger than it should. So we replaced all of them. Alse we changed water pump because its belt disc was vibrating and lost its balance. And we put all the parts back to the engine. It runs perfectly now no vibration at all. Goes like jet Thank you again. See you in a different Thread.
Especially when using crappy supermarket diesel. My tipo (same engine as 100TD brava AFAIK) suddenly had a loss of power on the A1M. Would just about rev in neutral but engaging the drive would bring on engine braking. Changed the fuel filter and found lumps of white solid all around the top of the filter. Changed and ran fine after that until the head gasket eventually started to give way.
The noise of the engine hunting when cold and idling is perfectly normal. You may not have noticed it but I would suggest it has always done this specifically when the ambient air is cold. I did read once why it was but I cant remember the reason other than it was something to do with it being unhealthy to idle a modern diesel engine at constant revs when it is cold. Im sure someone can come-up with
fiat actually released a service news about diesels about this and told dealers to cut it as they had a serious risk of sucking oil due to the turbo petrols were not done but as i have found out you can blow a petrol engine with this fault also it seems from your posts that fiat modified the mk2s in order to fix the fault but i still think cuttting the part out is better as even pinned up with a plug
There are a few you books you could buy however i recommend getting the following.... 1. You can use the Haynes manual for bodywork interior some mechanical and most electricals. 2. You can use the The porters Manual to cover the diesel engines but it isnt really the best book for the Bravoa Marea. 3. Your best bet is to use the fiat workshop manuals. Heres the LINK . I can put the fiat Bravo Haynes
let me help you out the coupe bravo brava 155 tempra 145 146 delta hpe are all based on the same car the tipo. The engine bays are all the same size a 1.4 bravo had the same amount of space in it as a 20vt coupe. the wish bones are not all the same length but the the subframes are. You can fit any engine from any other tipo based car into any other one ideally you need a whole donor car. Some things
As to my very vast(not) knowledge of the fiat diesel engines. At work we just use tippex to mark 1 tooth by they tend to move. Have a look for a hole in the pulley if it has try putting a 10mm head bolt in the hole. It may lock in position. Ill have a look for a diagram for u. Good Luck ) Pete K&N Induction Kit On A Panda Never
Multipoint means having 1 injector per cylinder as opposed to singlepoint which means having 1 injector shared between all cylinders of the engine. All common car diesel engines have 1 injector per cylinder so its multipoint.
hey im just wondering if a 1.9 TD engine from a fiat bravo would fit in my fiat punto mk1 1.7 TD so do you have a photo of your engine i would like to see it so I can determine if it fits in my car. Thnx walter Power to the diesel
A second with google httpwww.multiecuscan.net Used to be called fiatECUScan so try to guess what it does. Ive used a cheap USB-KKL with it you can find those cheap everywhere on the net. Also tried ELM327 bluetooth but windows is complete crap with bluetooth. Some sensors have their own ground cables form sensor and the fact that it runs 30seconds suggests the power should not be an issue. Usually
I heard this can happen when diesels starts burning engine oil S
Originally Posted by justin.accurate I heard this can happen when diesels starts burning engine oil S I dont know about this my dad had a diesel pickup (non turbo though) that used a bit of oil but it always switched off on the key
Yeah a diesel can run on oil mist from the sump usually if its ringsbores are trashed or if a flame trap has gone. Usually this results in it revving up to valve bounce and running on until all the oil is gone and it siezes. Yours sounds more controlled than that so I would vote for the fuel pump staying on. Ive driven older diesels with engine driven pumps that had a valve lifter fitted to stop them.
Originally Posted by jug theres no real price difference between any of the models. it depends more on age and milage. Only model really holding their value are the JTDs . I personally dont think the reliability between the petrol and diesel versions is that bad. Most fiat petrol engines (apart from the 1.4 12v) seem well built and good for maybe 200k Guess people really apreciate the extra mpg and slightly lower tax and consumables.
Bad news fiats are not ODB2 supportive. Good news if i remember correctly reader u bought supports EODB too written by joske (soemthing) The Bravoa and Mareas are not ODBII they are EODB however they use the universal ODBII connector. fiat started to fit EODB connectors to cars before the auto legislation changed to make it compulsory for ODB and ODBII all-in-one diagnostic ports to be fitted to new
is the in tank fuel pump running the whole time . Does the engine die suddenly when the light comes on or does it slowly die . And how does it restart - straight away or does it take a bit of cranking . You may have to get another diagnostic done to see whats happening here - watch the fuel rail pressure live data when its starting and running.. Dont attempt to strip any of the pumpregulator down. or take it back to fiat and tell them to fix it properly this time - kick up a fuss.. Owen.
5secs. till relay clicks it will restart immediately That was what used to happen now it dies within 5 - 10 secs. with same restart. You may have to get another diagnostic done to see whats happening here - watch the fuel rail pressure live data when its starting and running.. OK weighing up options on how to get it there Dont attempt to strip any of the pumpregulator down. OK or take it back to fiat
biodiesel works on any diesel engine without any modifications some pumps here already have 2575 mixture of biodiesel available.
This is a suggestion to the diesel experts. Could a shut off valve of sorts be plumbed into the diesel line a secondary solenoid Thus shutting off the engine by being tapped into the feed to the solenoid.
Well if you get the TD 100 or 75 its the same engine in the Tipo.. Not much goes wrong with them. They just keep on going. Good on the diesel. Get it a KN panel filter as good breathing is the key to power and economy
Originally Posted by StoneNewt Ryan you know Id love to take that engine but Ive got no use for it sorry dude... Hellcat... doesnt that engine on the heavy side of life compared to the 2.0 20v dont think the weight is much different actually would like to try out a 2.4 20v diesel but you could also get a stilo 2.0 20v petrol in aswell
Unless youre asking if a Punto GT engine would fit in the boot for transporting (which it wont unless you put the back seats flat then the answer is Why Bravos are available standard with a 155bhp petrol version or you can get a 100bhp diesel and have it remapped to 150bhp. If you absolutly had to do an engine swap why not take a 2.0 20v turbo from a coupe and fit it in
if its really a knocking sound then most probably you have an oil pump failure and theres no oil circulating in your engine block anymore. chances are your conrods have gone south on you. if your engine sounds like a diesel engine during cold starts in the morning minus the knocking sound then it may just be your cam variator.
smart. thanks for your help and on the other thread was gona be seriosly annoyed if i found the engine was completely knackered even after i bought and fitted a new clutch. what could i clean the pipes with engine degreaser or wd 40. that kinda stuff and just make sure its dry before i refit them got a new pipe that comes immediately off the throttle body - with the flexible rubber bit at one end thats