Starting with the obvious make sure your caliper retaining clips are in place. After replacing my front brakes I had a rattle and discovered one the clips had fallen off and disappeared due no doubt to my over-bending the clip on removal.
them rattle with my finger when the brake calliper is assembled but I can still get the interal pads to rattle...or I could do. Ive since applied a bit of Ultra disc brake caliper Lube a product produced by Permatex. It appears to be working a treat. No rattles although not too sure if this will turn out to be a temporary fix or not Ill have to wait and see. One thing I did do is ask the local bmw
Quote Originally Posted by David Suri I have to change the front and rear brakes on my 2001 540I. Anyone here got directions. I have changed brakes before on my old 1500 Dogde Ram Truck and 1998 Honda Accord but never on a bmw is it pretty much the same or am I way off base Thanks David It is pretty easy Jack up the car Remove the wheel Pop the spring loose and set aside On the backside of the caliper
Quote Originally Posted by darran does anyone know the size disc and pads i need for a bmw 2001 compact e46 n42 316tise 1800cc i can see they are vented on frontand also are they easy to fit ive replaced pads on my old e36 some years ago are there any links thanks search www.REALOEM.com for the proper discs for your car dont forget your build date located on driver side door sticker by latch. As for
Quote Originally Posted by rgk330i bluebee do you do these references from memory Naaah. I use this method to find things in a split second - How To Easily Find Information on Your Topic Before Posting a New Thread Summarized I set my control panel long ago to 80 posts per page and then I open up this one thread (commonly called the bestlinks) and type KEYWORD F3. For example brake F3 nets me among others the following (which I then edit down to answer the specific question of the OP) - What street use brake pads ( 1 ) and rotors ( 1 ) and suppliers ( 1 ) ( 2 ) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) including the parking brake drum shoes ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) & exactly what lubepaste to use and not use ( 1 ) & where to lube ( 1 ) and not to lube ( 1 ) & what six brake hoses to check for wear ( 1 ) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild ( 1 ) ( 2 ) & what tools are needed for a brake job ( 1 ) ( 2 ) and supplies for doing brakes ( 1 ) & what brake specifications you must know ( 1 ) including minimum specs for the brake shoes ( 1 ) ( 2 ) taking care to measure torque accurately ( 1 ) & how to crack friction material edge codes ( 1 ) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) & how long do rotors last ( 1 ) & whats the real difference between drilled slotted and solid rotors ( 1 ) & whats the difference between various brands of solid rotors ( 1 ) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way ( 1 ) ( 2 ) and how to hardwire the sensor ( 1 ) ( 2 ) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) & the truth about rotor warp ( 1 ) & how to rebuild the calipers ( 1 ) & how to measure runout ( 1 ) & should you just turn the rotors ( 1 ) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors ( 1 ) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw ( 1 ) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring ( 1 ) ( 2 ) & what about unsightly rust ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) ( 5 ) & how to bed ( 1 ) ( 2 ) & bleed or flush ( 0 ) ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) ( 5 ) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use ( 1 ) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) & a textbook on friction brake theory ( pdf) & the bmw_TIS_34-11-00-replacing_brake_linings_and_lubricants.pdf
Try disc brake Quiet made by CRC. Its a silicone based product that cures like rubber. This along with spreading the clips that insert into the calipers worked for me.
Where is this CRC product applied Between the calipers and the back of brake pad I would imagine Quote Originally Posted by BigCo540i Try disc brake Quiet made by CRC. Its a silicone based product that cures like rubber. This along with spreading the clips that insert into the calipers worked for me.
Quote Originally Posted by usedbimmer Yes with the wheel off of course. That is how I discovered what was rattling. I removed a rear wheel and grabbed the ends of the pads and noticed move just enough to make the rattling noise I hear while I drive. I do have the anti-rattle clip installed. 1. Does it do it on both sides 2. Do you still have your old pads If you do how about taking the rattling one
Quote Originally Posted by 02bmw530 Id do a pseudo write up This is a great start. I find that I always intend on doing the writeup but after the fact its so hard to get back in the mood Quote Originally Posted by 02bmw530 I heard the unmistakable crunchinggrinding sound Youll find out what the rotors look like when you remove the wheels but crunching and grinding is not a good sign. Hopefully it was
Here are more details. Gather these fluids BEFORE you begin your bmw brake job So that the next bmw brake job DIY has all the information handy Ive collected the best of your recommendations in this simple brake job fluids tips and tricks ... Summary of recommended fluids for a typical bmw E39 brake job - 1 liter ATE Super Blue DOT 4 low-viscosity brake fluid (note 1) - 75 ml tube of ATE Superlube
Quote Originally Posted by jcourcoul Official word from the source... In addition there is an entire thread devoted to the myths and proper lubrication procedures for a typical bmw brake job in the E39 bestlinks - What to lube & where and what not to lube in a typical bmw brake job ( 1 ) Excerpt Quote Summary of recommended fluids for a typical bmw E39 brake job - 1 liter ATE Super Blue DOT 4 low-viscosity
As additional information I researched brake-related lubricants when I first joined Bimmerfest on my very first post here - A users very first complete 4-wheel brake DIY experience on the bmw E39 ( 1 ) Despite the huge amount of wrong information out there this summary is what I came up after reading the Bentleys and scores of threads (referenced therein) ... See post 65 of this exploratory thread
Quote Originally Posted by BMRLVR There is a little more to braking power then the number of pistons in the caliper. Granted opposed piston calipers do affer more even pad wear and more equal pressure on the pads then a reqular sliding caliper but some regular sliding calipers like bmw uses offer great braking performance too. One good thing about bmw is they use very large rotors on both the front
the caliper. or after. or not. its most likely going to be replaced if the light came on) for reassembly i use a wire brush and brake cleaner but warm soapy water can also be used if you wish. the key is clean everything. i use synthetic brake caliper lube on the slides (VERY lightly with this stuff a little goes longer than you would think. 1 pak for 1 will do my front AND rear brakes on the bmw
Mmmmmm....Going to be in this situation when my parts arrive... Will be doing both front and rear rotors and pads...Currently 47.7K on the E46. To the OP - since we are both probably going to attempt this at the same time please can I chime in with a few questions of potential interest 1) The kit I bought apparently has a container of brake fluid in it - I should not need this since I dont plan to
the caliper - make sure the cap is removed and you watch to make sure it doesnt overflow and spill (brake fluid is nasty stuff). Use a turkey baster to remove excess if necessary. Although you dont need to change the fluid its a good idea - fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water which lowers its boiling point - and once it boils you get air in the lines) and should be changed every 2 years (per bmw)
thickness are missing. I know on some cars you can get into a lot more problems with rotors than just a simple pad replacement. (Used to do my own brakes on Toyotas etc.) The rotor surfaces look in good shape and the car breaks beautifully even in some simulated panic stops. Wear on the rotor face seems to be about 13 to 12 the thickness of a dime. Rotors are ventilated and probably original bmw
from the factory on them). Mine were nearly rust free and last night we had a rain storm now they look like crap. I know driving them will get rid of it on the surface but around the hub it will rust like crazy. One of my buddies says he has no rust at all which makes me wonder and his were Brembos too. I really have never seen any rotors that do not rust except for those painted ones. The OEM bmw
I replaced the brakes on my wife 2003 525i a few months ago. After I was done we discovered a loud rattle. I tracked it down to the rear brakes. After some research I determined it must be the anti-rattle clip. I asked around the bmw parts counter the mechanic and anyone else who would listen. The part rep. had new anti-rattle clips for about 6. She said she rarely sells any. The mechanic said usually
Quote Originally Posted by lodilakers I replaced the brakes on my wife 2003 525i a few months ago. After I was done we discovered a loud rattle. I tracked it down to the rear brakes. After some research I determined it must be the anti-rattle clip. I asked around the bmw parts counter the mechanic and anyone else who would listen. The part rep. had new anti-rattle clips for about 6. She said she rarely
Quote Originally Posted by thekurgan west I thought the bmws used the drum-in-disc type parking brake and that the actual pads dont come into contact with the rear rotors no you are correct sir the parking brake has nothing to do with normal brake calipers and pads
Quote Originally Posted by Orient330iNYC you are correct sir the parking brake has nothing to do with normal brake calipers and pads Fascinating. I didnt know this. Does it apply to all of our cars for all production years 2006-2010 325i 330i 328i 335i Ive never heard of anyone changing their drum brake pad. I honestly cant even tell where that part of the assembly would even go (comparing that diagram
I havent obsessed over them. The fronts do 80% of the braking. Nevertheless it doesnt change the fact that youve got an extremely hot brake and hub assembly. You probably dont want to press any pad against that rotor. Ive noticed on really high end cars like Ferrari and Maserati they have their own mini-caliper with a single piston to grip the rear disc. Take note next time you see one parked. bmw
Thanks everyone. I did locate the pages. Here are documents for the rear and front discs and the front pads. Of course rear and front is similar but I noticed the read disc document added information about adjusting the parking brake. What I was talking about was in the documents as well. Here it is 2AZ brake caliper to steering knuckle (screws lightly oiled contact surfaces between brake caliper and
First a little trivia. When the engine starts and the console is displaying the miles to next service if you push the right side button the display will change to show monthyear to next brake fluid change as per the 2-year recommended interval. I have yet to discover how to reset that timer when you change the fluid yourself (the dealer will happily reset it when you go over and assume the position...
Quote Originally Posted by bluebee Ive been on vacation with the bimmer up in the snow so sorry I havent posted recently. May I ask how much does a couple of thousands of inches matter The rear rotor thickness limit is 0.720 inches and a measurement in a dozen places shows it is above that by a few thousandths e.g. it was from about 0.724 to about 0.730 inches. Since Im at best four thousandths above
Quick way to check if your caliper is sticking is to go for a drive pull over and quickly touch your finger to each of the brake rotors. If you have a sticky caliper one of the rotors will be WAY hotter than the others. Thats how I discovered my sticky caliper. Of course you may burn your fingertip and there are smarter ways to do this (with a thermometer for example...) but it shouldnt be too bad if youre quick about it. Also FYI the fronts will always be warmer than the rears.
There is a minimum rotor thickness specification. A competent repair shop will have brake rotor calipers that can measure the thickness of the rotors and make a recommendation based on fact. The minimum rotor thickness is usually stamped on the rotor somewhere. EDIT Attached are the specifications for rotor thickness. TD Front brake E60.pdf TD rear brake discs E60.pdf
You have to determine if its sticking yourself. There are tell-tale signs... discoloration of the brake rotor uneven pad wear when comparing each rear corner to the other excessive heat at the suspected wheel after driving the car. It should be very obvious... smoke billowing out of the wheel well is a good clue too.
Quote Originally Posted by bimmer dot info Try pressing the piston back into the caliper with a large C clamp and a bit of wood. After that if you still have too much material you can sand a bit of it off. Apply a sheet of coarse (80 grit or so) paper to a flat surface (granite tile works great). Carefully hand sand the pads a little at a time untill they fit. Make sure that you do both sides evenly
Make sure caliper is off remove 6mm Allen screw. Tap it with a mallethammer to free it up a bit. Remember your parking brake assembly is in there you need to slide it off without binding it up on the pads. You dont want the P-brake assembly grenade-ing on you. Just work it back and forth it will come loose.
Save yourself 100-200 and do it yourself... only 8 bolts to remove on each side. (5 lugs 2 caliper bolts 1 hex screw holding the disc on) pads - 80 Disks - 47 to 86 depending on brand (OEM is most expensive) x 2 if you go all OEM then the indy shop is charing about 100 in labor.
that you see in these pictures - the metal was bone dusty dry. Not a single slippery shred of evidence of my past slobbery mistakes was evident. Since it all (seems to) wears off ... why do we even bother with the lubricants in the first place Anyway for argument sake here is the summary of the correct brake fluids to use based on my research Quote Gather these fluids BEFORE you begin your bmw
Quote Originally Posted by chansta it could be that you didnt put any high temp grease on the contact points on the brake pads. I dont know ifwhy the E46 would be different than the E39 but for the record at least on the E39 a Bentley-dictated brake job is almost dry. Details from the VERY best of E39 Links - E39 4-wheel brake DIY fluids Quote Gather these fluids BEFORE you begin your bmw brake job
I installed the rear BBK just before Hurricane Sandy hit so I didnt get a chance to put up the photos until now. We only just got power at my house 2 days ago and power was restored Zeckhausen Racing on Monday. What a nightmare. Part 2 of the StopTech 4-wheel big brake upgrade on the bmw F30 328i. Front brakes were installed Thursday night (Oct 25) and now (Oct 27) its time to do the rears. These are
brakes. Ill bet they throw you through the windshield if youre not careful Quote Originally Posted by DZeckhausen I installed the rear BBK just before Hurricane Sandy hit so I didnt get a chance to put up the photos until now. We only just got power at my house 2 days ago and power was restored Zeckhausen Racing on Monday. What a nightmare. Part 2 of the StopTech 4-wheel big brake upgrade on the bmw
brought me to this site.. and im really glad ive found it anyway heres my tuppence worth.I bought a 2000 520i just over a year ago and had 10 months of wonderful driving.Then two months ago I developed judder from the front end while braking which got progressively worse from 50 mph down to 30 mph at which stage it disappeared completely.I returned to the garage with the car (not an official bmw
- you could get 80000 miles on a set of pads 15% would still leave you about 12000 miles. If you drive in the city and are hard on the brakes (or trackautoX the car) you might only get 20000 miles to a set of pads. 15% of 20000 miles would be 3000 miles. The pad wear sensors are only on one caliper of each axle the other calipers pads may be more worn and need replacing sooner. That is why bmw
to check the brakes as mine at about 25K miles (75K to 102K miles) were worn to the nubs and unfortunately the brake wear sensor did NOT trip Quote Originally Posted by Variocam is it really really absolutely necessary to replace the rotors each time you do the brakes The answer is in the numbers. For the rears on my bimmer 0.720 inches is the wear limit. Quote Originally Posted by marinekilz bmw
Quote Originally Posted by Fast Bob I think the reasoning behind the no lube edict for brake pins is that any oil or grease will tend to attract & hold dirt and other abrasives on the surface of the pin causing excessive wear and possible binding.... Actually when I apply lube in my non-bmw cars I apply lube INSIDE the Plastic Housing where the 7-mm bolt resides. There is a cap to cover this bolt so
I didnt quite understand the difference. We might be confusing compounds. Antisqueal is a removable adhesive used to glue the pads onto the calipers to prevent their motion and squeal. caliper grease is a thick and gooey molygraphite based grease with high durability meant to lubricate the sliding metal parts within the floating calipers. See attached PDFs for recommended locations to apply bmws