bmw serie 4 abs system brake fluid pump

Answers and questions: bmw serie 4 abs system brake fluid pump

BMW SERIES 3 E46 How would a bad Brake Fluid Job affect the DSC system (pictures)

Im trying to trace the source of the yellow DSCbrake warning lamps staying on. Alignment is not causing it. One of the things I did before leaving for Canada was changing the brake fluid at a local shop and I believe the method they used was the pump and bleed method - where one guy was in the car pumping the brake whiles a guy went around draining each brake line. I know lots can go wrong during this

The pump and hold bleed method is really bad for the master cylinder too because it allows the piston and seal to travel into an area of the bore that is not normally used. This unused area is considerably rougher than the normally used area which can possibly lead to master cylinder seal failure. I ruined more than one master cylinder on other cars using this method. A pressure or vacuum bleeder is

Quote Originally Posted by SJBimmer The pump and hold bleed method is really bad for the master cylinder too because it allows the piston and seal to travel into an area of the bore that is not normally used. This unused area is considerably rougher than the normally used area which can possibly lead to master cylinder seal failure. I ruined more than one master cylinder on other cars using this method.

to piston travelseals. Water corrosion and perished seals (usually due to age) are the causes of MC failure. OP you almost certainly have air entrappment in the abs module. As mentioned a dealer or a good indy can get it out. Scott That may be true in your case because you were probably more diligent than I was changing the brake fluid in my previous cars. I have never seen the inside of a bmw

Quote Originally Posted by jcourcoul the only way to get it out is by exercising them with the appropriate DISMoDIC software module While there are many bmw diagnostic tool forums - bmw diagnostic coding & programming tools forums ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) ( 5 ) We over on the E39 side of the house have a nascent diagnostic thread that E46 owners may be interested in reading & adding value to - The most

BMW SERIES 5 E39 DIY Brake Job Flush ABS Fluid

If it is not terribly hot by morning tomorrow I will be doing a brake job on my 5406 including a fluid flush. Is there a way to flush the abs systempump

View Abs system, brake fluid pump for BMW SERIE 4

BMW SERIES 5 E39 What fluids (only) should be used in a typical E39 brake job

Im doing a brake job which seems to be easy except that every tutorial I find either skips the fluids or lobs them about without explaining. Can I summarize which fluids would be used in a typical bmw brake job (front and rear rotors pads and sensors) Is this correct (or would you modify) 1. Locktite red on all bolts removed and replaced except caliper guides 2. CRC or Permatex brake Disc Quiet for

fit for ALL european cars and they also have a universal type that will fit most types American Japanese or European but uses a universal attachment. I believe that model is 0101 vs the European only one 0100 model. My suspicion is the store you bought yours at had a universal type which MAY not ensure a tight seal at the Master Cylinder cap or they simply did not have pressure type one for a bmw.

Quote Originally Posted by Ryan M J And what gunk are you talking about Entering the piston of the caliper How Anyone who has ever bled their brakes will see that the first 3 ounces of fluid coming out of the bleed valve has particulates in it and VERY DARK. This darkness is particulates suspended in the fluid and settled in the pistons from the deterioration of brake lines from within the system when

BMW SERIES 5 E34 ABS and Brakes - Need help

I have a 1992 525I Touring . I have a serious problem with my brakes . My abs light is on . The brakes are locked and I cannot drive the car. I took the car to a brake shop and the mechanics told me that it is the abs system that is malfunctioning. It is locking my brakes and it is not releasing . Does anyone has any idea about how I can fix this problem . I do not have any idea about how to work on

Quote Originally Posted by aldo1 I have a 1992 525I Touring . I have a serious problem with my brakes . My abs light is on . The brakes are locked and I cannot drive the car. I took the car to a brake shop and the mechanics told me that it is the abs system that is malfunctioning. It is locking my brakes and it is not releasing . Does anyone has any idea about how I can fix this problem . I do not

BMW SERIES 5 E60 E61 brake fluid mistake

WHat would happen if one were to for example accidently pour about 12 cup of brake fluid into the power steering fluid in a 5 series Theorectically speaking

Quote Originally Posted by txag_530i I dont think that half a cup of brake fluid is going to immediately destroy the seals so I wouldnt worry too much of the car has been started. You definitely want to get the wrong fluid out of there by doing a flush before you run the system anymore. Unfortunately the hydraulic fluid filter is in the bottom of the reservoir so once the brake fluid passes through

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Abs dsc brake

OK I have done some research on this topic and still havent figured out my problem quite yet. First off let me just say that I have an E46 model 2000 323I. I do notice sometimes when the lights come on the car has to be pretty hot. Stop and go driving in the city and the engine compartment is really high temperature. I did clean all the wheel speed sensors and have checked the brake fluid level. There

I dont quite understand your bold text comment in your post. Squishy and something under the pedal dont compute for me. With the car turned off can you pump the pedal many times so that it is eventually hard to press Doing this will tell you that your system can be pressurized and you can have a firm pedal. If pads were changed or some other work was done on your brakes you may just have air in the

BMW SERIES 5 E60 E61 Flushingbleeding brakes and abs question

CAR bmw 530i E60. Got a split in the brake hose connected to the HR indicated abs pump. To remove just the split brake hose i will be required to remove the connection at the abs pump itself and just half way in the engine bay at just a connecter to another pipe. (the actual hose has a silver connection to the pipe on each end but isnt able to be removed i will leave it to the Pirtek to remove that

IF your brake system ran dry then you will either have to get the active bleeding done or bleed that circuit a few times after it is driven a short bit before each subsequent bleed. The pump and valve cycle on start and first roll through 3-7 mph (or whatever the active test speed is in the software) will get air in several spots in the abs hydraulics due to the test evn if abs or any of the tractioncontrol

BMW SERIES 3 E30 1987 325i - rear brakes & power steering pump issues

Hi all I have a 1987 325iC. I have two problems 1) It recently failed inspection for inadequate rear braking. Rear pads are only worn 10% no leaks anywhere. I pulled the wheels and it appears to me that the braking pressure is low since there is rust on the rotor surface near the hub. What could be at fault master cylinder abs motor or the rear brake equalizer 2) The power steering pump whines when

Quote Originally Posted by m3rd Hi all I have a 1987 325iC. I have two problems 1) It recently failed inspection for inadequate rear braking. Rear pads are only worn 10% no leaks anywhere. I pulled the wheels and it appears to me that the braking pressure is low since there is rust on the rotor surface near the hub. What could be at fault master cylinder abs motor or the rear brake equalizer 2) The

BMW SERIES 5 E39 ABS pump leaking (so they tell me)

Hello to all I seem to be having an issue with my 2000 528i and I was looking for some opinionssuggestionsguidance. Haha this is my first vehicle so Im still trying to learn about cars (meaning I try to understand what people write in posts..but still most goes over my head)..anyway I took my car to a shady mechanic to replace my alternator and he told me that I should replace my abs pump due to the

I dont believe that is the pump but the solenoid block which does have a bunch of steel lines leading to it. I have NEVER heard of one leaking before but always a first for me I would think it is more likely that one of the steel lines is leaking either at the solenoid block or from one of the lines that usually has a union somewhere in the middle of the steel line so that it can be removed easier.

BMW SERIES 5 E34 E34 skidding brakes problem

Hi everyone I have a weird problem. Ive got new brake pads ok brake discs and i have overhauled my brake callipers (all this is for the front ones). However when I brake though my abs is clearly working I hear alot of skidding sounds. It seems to come from the front. This is for medium and hard brakes. At low speed braking there is no sound. There is no shimmy in the car during braking. The mech who

Hi Roberto In response to your msg you left on www.bmwfanatics.co.za below. I do not know if your abs pump has bleedscrews on it my E34 540 did not and is the Bosch abs 5 pump not all of them do. Regardless the abs pump can be bled quite easily using either bmw DIS or EDIABAS INPA I am sure some local indy shops will have this software and will be able to help you out however I am not convinced that

BMW SERIES 5 E34 Overheat and Coolant fluid boiling

Hi brother Today Ive driven my car for work about 5 kms with AC on(or running idle about 30 mins with AC on) then Coolant temp light on. Ive stopped engive and open the hood to check so I found coolant fluid is boiling. The Temp gauge is RED level. My coolant fluid is overflow too much when I stop the car. I think themostat work normal cause radiator hose is hot on top (soft no hard) and warm on bottom

longer. If you can afford it purchase and install a new radiator. Use new hoses if you do and before you do this use an anti-rust liquid in your old radiator to flush out all the rust before you throw it out. 15. Pipe out some radiator fluid and look at it in a clear bottle. If theres alot of rust flakes flush that radiator 3 times one week apart each. Use cheap 3 coolant between flushes. Use bmw

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Problem bleeding brakes on M5...

I was bleeding my brakes today after installing new rotors brakes and brake lines and Ive run into a problem... Im no mechanic by any means so I took pictures to help me along. My mechanic had me in the car pumping the brakes and fluid only came out of the back right tire. I could only push the peddle in about 2-4 inches unless he loosened the lines up on the abs module. History of braking system in

Quote whattt its a dealer only thing to bleed the brakes ive never heard of this before but i will definatly be careful to not remove my calipers without professional help then It is not a dealer only thing to bleed the brakes. Ive bleed them a few times on my abs equipped E39 bmw and tons of times on my abs equipped E30s. I replaced calipers on both my E39 and my E30s. You cannot let air get into

Quote Originally Posted by Jase007 It is not a dealer only thing to bleed the brakes. Ive bleed them a few times on my abs equipped E39 bmw and tons of times on my abs equipped E30s. I replaced calipers on both my E39 and my E30s. You cannot let air get into the abs pump ... so ... when bleeding the lines or replacing calipers etc... plug the open brake line with a stopper after disconnecting. Use

BMW SERIES 5 E39 No brakes in hot weather WTF

Drive around in cool weather I have brakes all day long. It gets above 85 i can stop 1 or 2 times then pedal to the floor and people get rear ended. I cant let my wife and child drive this car when Im at work god forbid something happens. The only thing I know is brake fluid is good master cylinder seems to be ok but my rear passenger caliper seems to freeze up. Any suggestions or similar experiences would help. Thank you guys.

consistent problems except when not A shot in the dark - any chance that the abs is acting up with an electrical fault in higher ambient temp Do you ever feel or hear any abs style pulsing in the pedal E.g. if abs is pulsing but abs pump is inop one would experience a falling pedal and then no braking effect when master cylinder reached full stroke. Done a scan of the braking system with a bmw

consistent problems except when not A shot in the dark - any chance that the abs is acting up with an electrical fault in higher ambient temp Do you ever feel or hear any abs style pulsing in the pedal E.g. if abs is pulsing but abs pump is inop one would experience a falling pedal and then no braking effect when master cylinder reached full stroke. Done a scan of the braking system with a bmw

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Brakes Rotor Question

It summer time and hard braking season and it looks like the wear on my rotors is getting to the outer lip. I was just wondering how much you guys paid for your (OEM) brakes rotors sensors. And if you did it DIY style how hard was it I dont have the service manual as of YET but my neighbor across the street did his own breaks on a 97 3-series and told me there are only a few allen bolts to deal with Basically a 30 minute job a breezy afternoon and a cold beer. Thanks guys

More on this... Rotor removal I spoke to a bmw mechanic who laughed when I told him I heated the hex bolt and then drilledextracted the rusted in bolt. He said when the hex bolt is rusted in our bmw wrenches just take a 5 lb small sledge and blast the rotor (from the back) off the wheel hub. The top of the hex bolt pulls through the old rotor or breaks off. Either way you then vice grip the bolt stud

BMW SERIES 5 E34 Newbie with coolant system questions

Hello all Long time reader first time threader. I have a beautiful black 525i made in December 1994 with 24450 miles (no typo). Ive read many of the threads on here about the coolant system issues and my question is when I upgrade the water pump to a metal impeller and thermostat to a 88F should I have to worry about coolant system anymore Thank you INdTimeMachine

If I were you I would change all the hoses in the car. The engine bay ones for fuel and coolant not worth taking any risks there and the brake hoses (change to steel ones for better braking performance at the same price as stock ones). bmw did not make these hoses from products that were designed to last in perpetuity....dont we all know this from painful experience Get a new radiator cap and a brass

Quote Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 If I were you I would change all the hoses in the car. The engine bay ones for fuel and coolant not worth taking any risks there and the brake hoses (change to steel ones for better braking performance at the same price as stock ones). bmw did not make these hoses from products that were designed to last in perpetuity....dont we all know this from painful

BMW SERIES 3 E90 E91 E92 E93 ABS Module Failure Why

This thread is designed to aid in those of us that will eventually get a failure caused by the abs Module-Modulator-pump. You typically get the DSC-abs-brake light warning on the dash. If you are someone that has no interest in doing their own work or take it to your dealer or independent this thread isnt for you. Background I received this warning the first warning I have received on my E93 since

It might be wise to exercise the abs regularly as the motor only turns when the unit is pulsing the brake pressure. At least thats how it works on my bmw motorcycle. abs faults are typical of a low battery voltage as the computer continuously checks for sufficient power to operate the abs motor. If the motor works and battery is good then faults at the wheel sensors are possible. I once triggered a

Quote Originally Posted by fun2drive Unfortunately in 2006 bmw changed their design and removed the bleed screws so you CANNOT bleed the abs modulator stand alone. This isnt a battery issue This isnt a module issue It is either the motor which is the most likely issue or a stuck piston in the modulator. Also my brakes are bled annually so it isnt bad brake fluid at all and the new design allows brake

BMW SERIES 3 E36 Intermittent ABS light update

Hi I posted a couple of questions on here about the intermittent abs light problem I was having. First I figured that one of my sensors was bad so I began by cleaning and changing the sensors to try and isolate the bad one to no avail. With the dealer wanting to charge 130 dollars to checkreset my code I decided to change the relays to see if that would make any difference which it didnt. So I decided

BMW SERIES 5 E34 94 530i front brakes locked while driving

I just purchased a 94 530i and on the way home all of a sudden the car bogged really bad and I started to smell burning phenolic. When I pulled over I noticed the front brakes were stuck on. And the brake pedal was hard. A mechanic happened to stop and said he thought it was the abs sensor causing the brakes to stick. So I pulled the abs fuses for a few minutes started the car shut the car off put

Ive never done this but it should be relatively straightforward. A SAFETY issue first. Disconnect the abs pump and open the brake bleed valves (you can do this one by one) then pump the brakes repeatedly to relieve the high pressure in the abs system and brake lines. Dont run the reservoir dry but just make sure there is no residual pressure in the Hydraulic system before you start removing the pump.

Quote Originally Posted by ameiurus Im not sure what Im doing wrong. I swapped out the abs pump. When I go to bleed the brakes I cant seem to get the fluid to flow. I have a vacuum bleeder and when I draw 25lb of vacuum Im not getting any fluid to flow. Some abs pumps require the ignition to be ON in order to bleed the brakes. Since the electronics control the abs system there may be valves that need

Quote Originally Posted by Tourburgring Some abs pumps require the ignition to be ON in order to bleed the brakes. Since the electronics control the abs system there may be valves that need to be energised for the system to pass fluid. Never actually heard of anybody trying Vacuum on a brake system before. Definitely bleed the brakes manually generally as CarDriver describes. Top up the brake fluid

BMW SERIES 5 E39 brake bleedingdiagnosis.. plz help

hey guys.. so here is my situation... Noticed a worn spot in my steel braided lines when i installed pads a month or 2 ago... Well had to slam on my brakes the other day and ended up popping that line where that spot was.. drove home carefully and popped the wheels off and found that was the problem.. so I replaced the line and bled them.. started the car up and brake pedal went to the floor.. Took

BMW SERIES 3 E90 E91 E92 E93 Replaced my DSC Hydro Pump

Sometime ago I got the dreaded abs brake and DSC trifecta error while coming home from work but it went off after I restarted the car. This intermittent fault continued on and off for some time afterwards until about a month ago it finally stayed permanently on. I decided to take the car to an indy mechanic and have the codes read. The fault cade came back as a 5DF0 code which is a faulty DSC Hydrolic

BMW SERIES 5 E39 DSC Precharge pump

I have a 01 530i with a DSC warning light that is lit (no abs light). I had it read and it showed up as code 88 precharge pump failure. I also got a low voltage code but that disappeared when cleared. From searching around I am pretty sure it is either the pump itself or it is the abs module. This is as far as I have gotten because I cant seem to find where the precharge pump actually is. Am I making

Now... Does anyone know how to remove it Or is there a guide to removing it You can follow the TIS link from here for instructions. httpspaghetticoder.org First though have you confirmed that the P-C pump is bad Nothing so silly as a fuse broken wire or bad pin in a connector Perhaps the DSC control module is faulty and not powering the pump Second before you start you should realize that bmw

I should have recalled this during my earlier post. You may be able to avoid the need for bleeding with a diagnostic system. Ive seen and heard of people that got lucky with this method below but not always. When you remove the brake lines from the pre-charge pump plug them with plastic stoppers of some sort to minimize the loss of brake fluid especially from the line going to the DSCabs block. After

Quote Originally Posted by rdl You can follow the TIS link from here for instructions. httpspaghetticoder.org First though have you confirmed that the P-C pump is bad Nothing so silly as a fuse broken wire or bad pin in a connector Perhaps the DSC control module is faulty and not powering the pump Second before you start you should realize that bmw says that proper bleeding after opening the brake

BMW SERIES 3 E36 Bleeding Brakes on cars with Traction Control

Anyone know why the Bentley Manual says not to bleed your brakes if you have traction control The book says to take it to an authorized mech. Was thinking about doing this soon since Im coming up on the mark where I had MX replace the rotors and pads. They bled the system when they did it. I was gonna DIY it this time.

Yes you can. Use a pressure bleeder. Motive products approx 50.00 available at Bavauto Pelican etc. Issue is if air enters abs body the valves must be cycled to expel the air. bmws abs diagnostic tools can do this. Just be sure not to let the fluid reservoir empty while bleeding. the pressure bleeder is ideal for this. Some recommend bleeding then actuating the abs (stomp brakes on gravel or grass)

BMW SERIES 5 E39 540 brakes. Please help confirm my diagnosis...

Im a noob at this entire mechanicin game but Ive done fairly well with all of my other issues thanks to the web and specifically this site. The problem I am tackling this time is my brakes. I have researched this up and down and I think I have a diagnosis. I want to be sure I am not barking up the wrong tree. I have a year 2000 540i. My brakes started seizing intermittently a little while ago. No brakeDSC

Your right side brakes locking up could be related to the abs valveair problem but could also be caused by other problems-seized calipers that are rusted inside and will not release properly or bad (decomposing inside) flexible rubber brake lines. Sometimes these lines will allow brake fluid to flow into the caliper but will prevent the fluid flowing back out of the caliper to release the brake on

Just wanted to stop in and give everyone an update... I called a new (to me) indy and told him EXACTLY what I had done to troubleshoot the brakes. When he was done listening to my diagnosis he handed the phone over to the service writer and I could hear him say write him up for an abs air flush - hes already figured everything out for me. I wasnt sure if it was sarcasm or if he was serious. I assumed

Quote Originally Posted by bluebee I just updated the tribal recommendations And if you have better inspection I II and III checklists please let me know so I can update them also as I just did in this thread today - E39 (1997 - 2003) 1998 540i inspection two Quote - bmw servicemaintenance schedule & checklists I II and III ( 1 ) ( 2 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) ( 5 ) & an archived bmw CPO PPI inspection checklist

BMW SERIES 5 E39 03 530i brakes locked up help please

03 bmw 530i was driving it yesterday and the car started to viberate bad then the car started to slow it seems the brakes all locked up and the car slow and then would not move. i could hit the gas and the car would not move at all. let it sit for a few hours went back to it and it drove about a mile and then the same thing happened again. a roll back came and got it and when they winched it up on

Quote Originally Posted by cn90 In 99% of cars out there the abs Module when activated REDUCES the braking power to the wheel (to prevent lock-up). The abs Module virtually never applies braking power. So when all 4 wheels lock up it is likely mechanical in nature. Usually this points to the Master Cylinder (its piston not returning back to neutral position). CN90 is entirely correct that the abs module

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Brake repair bleeding tips

I visited a friend to scrounge an old style plain (no level sensor) ATE master cylinder cap for my homebrew pressure bleeding project. We started trading stories shortcuts and tips and I picked up a couple of clever tips new to me at least. It wasnt all business though a brewski or three were involved as well. Avoid draining the master cylinder reservoir while bleeding With a narrow neck bottle of

Quote Originally Posted by FLE39 hhmmm I did a 10-15psi power flush using Motive Bleeder tool. Ill have to see about the module bleed procede. After having done a pressure bleed with using the DIS procedure which includes the abs module cycling I wouldnt pay to have the DIS process unless I had a soft pedal that I couldnt solve and therefore suspected air in the abs valve block. Or if I had replaced

BMW SERIES 3 GT F34 No brake pressure at any wheel.

Well as i was attempting to replace pads and rotors I realized that i had a stuck caliper piston so i thought well it pushed in hard. Took off of lift pumped brakes spongy pedal. So my first thought that caliper is not coming back out its probablly stuck. I replaced the suspect caliper no fluid form the line The wheel with no fluid is the RF So i went to abs Block cracked the line no fluid. Tried to

Quote Originally Posted by mhoadbmw85 Well as i was attempting to replace pads and rotors I realized that i had a stuck caliper piston so i thought well it pushed in hard. Took off of lift pumped brakes spongy pedal. So my first thought that caliper is not coming back out its probablly stuck. I replaced the suspect caliper no fluid form the line The wheel with no fluid is the RF So i went to abs Block

Quote Originally Posted by Ilovemycar ....I was thinking about doing a bunch of this (outdated) stuff. Ive just started educating myself on changing fluids for PS radiator brakes MTclutch and diff. I did oil for the first time last year so I expect it to go even smoother this time and while Ill also DIY engine air filter and micro filter for the first time I expect those to only take a few minutes.

BMW SERIES 5 E60 E61 replacing break fluid

My car has been telling my that the break fluid needs to be replaced...is this something that needs to be done at the dealer I called and was told it would cost 180...hoping to have it done for less or if easy enough do it myself...

Quote Originally Posted by pjinca Yes you can do it yourself. You can do it one of 2 ways The old fashioned way which requires a buddy to press and release the pedal. Open the bleed screw at the farthest point from the reservoir (right rear wheel in our case) and work from there. Fill reservior with neww fluid open bleed screw press pedal repeat until new fluid comes out of the bleeder. Another way

BMW SERIES 3 E36 First brake job what essential parts & procedures

Will do my first brake job on my recently acquired 99 328i Cabrio within the week. First E36 Ive owned. I am absolutely ordering a set of the Rotor Retaining Screws in case I strip some out during disassembly. The literature Ive read suggests they can be a bear to remove. Got my high temp grease and anti-seize for reassembly. Are the Guide Bushing Repair Kits worth investing in What kind of odds Ill

Quote Originally Posted by slMagnvox Will do my first brake job on my recently acquired 99 328i Cabrio within the week. First E36 Ive owned. I am absolutely ordering a set of the Rotor Retaining Screws in case I strip some out during disassembly. The literature Ive read suggests they can be a bear to remove. Got my high temp grease and anti-seize for reassembly. Are the Guide Bushing Repair Kits worth

BMW SERIES 3 E46 New Brakes and Suspension now a few questions

So I finally got my new H&R Sport Cup Kit installed as well as new SS brake lines slotted rotors and metal master pads. It has been a stressful journey. I started on monday morning. I followed my mother to a car rental place to give her a ride back and as soon as i pulled in the expansion tank cracked. So i had the car towed to my friends garage where we were going to do the brake and suspension work.

With the engine off can you pump the brake pedal and firm it up You should be able to do that or you have a leak somewhere. Are you absolutely certain you did not allow the brake fluid level to get too low at any point during your work If you did and air got into the abs manifold you need to go to a mechanic with the proper toolscomputer to bleed the abs system. It cant be done manually from what Ive read here.

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Proper way to bleed brakes

Hello all.... I am replacing the front calipers but I dont know how to properly bleed the brake system. I have tried to find a do it your self but have not found one. Any suggestions

Quote Originally Posted by KrisL Well Ive got a motive power bleeder which is awesome. Pressurize the brake reservoir and then just walk around to each bleeder screw and open it up until you see new fluid (going in the order from the farthest wheel from the reservoir to the closest). Gotta make sure you dont run the reservoir dry. You can do it with two people by having one person pump the pedal. If

BMW SERIES 3 E46 06 330xi ACSABSEbrake

Adding my experience to the information pertaining to the problem of ACSabsEbrake coming on at the same time in yellow.... SituationBackground I was picking my car up after servicing (replacing the tention pulley). They also washed the car. It was -24C at 1100 at night (just arrived back from business travel). Approximately 2 minutes after starting the car all 3 lights came on. It happened to be exactly

Ask an expert