Shouldnt be related.
Some clarification... they initially said the brake pads were worn down to 25% left so they replaced those.. said the brake sensor may be off. So they replaced the pads but the lights stayed on. Then they replaced the crankshaft sensor. When I got to the shop the car was ready to go back up for a few minutes and I noticed the service engine light was off but the absbrake lights were on. He was working
I went to the top of the page but didnt see Blue Bees post. The mechanic told me that the right m(passenger) front and right rear sensors were bad. I only have one issue and that is that the cruise control is intermittent so I dont know what the other sensor is doing. That being said and by reading your post Id have to replace all 4 anyway since one front and one right is bad. The strange thing is
by reading your post Id have to replace all 4 anyway since one front and one right is bad. Huh Quote Originally Posted by lsrguy98 The strange thing is that when the mechanic was testing out the sensors with his computer the language was in German so he had to translate it using his iphone. Read this thread to see how to get the information in English - Making sense of the most often recommended bmw
Quote Originally Posted by lsrguy98 Forward Biased Reversed Bias Pins 13 and 29 1.728 Open Pins 30 and 31 1.712 Open Pins 28 and 12 1.724 Open Pins 15 and 16 1707 Open Hmmm... I dont remember at which year they switched the type of wheel speed sensors (its in the thread we already referenced so I wont bother looking it up) but if yours is like mine (in the engine bay) you should definitely have very
Quote Originally Posted by lsrguy98 Both the abs module and connector are in the engine compartment. Good. Thats what I have so thats the experience I can help you with. Quote All of the modules read the same. About 1.70 volts in the forward biased direction and open in the reversed biased direction. Aha Thats perfect. I thought you had previously said they read the same in both directions. That would
Quote Originally Posted by xfidel Hi Could anyone kindly give me the pinout numbers for the four abs speed sensors on a 2008 year 330D (E91) together with the appropriate diode voltage readings Thanks. Best practice is to tap into the abs sensors thru the abs sub-menu on the ALDL connector using a scanner. Drive the car and you can see exactly what the waveform looks like which the abs computer is getting. Short of that disconnect the sensor at the wheel where each sensor harness joins the main harness. Plot the graph while spinning the wheel. You will see either no signal a broken signal or a degraded signal. All no good. Unsure what diode voltage readings means. I will add this though voltage alone will tell you nothing at worst and is inconclusive at best. Most bad sensors meet the voltage spec but crap out in signal duration or presence. How will you detect bad teeth by measuring voltage That only works if you can parade the waveform and spot a voltage drop in a series of waves.
BTW someone PMd me a few times today from the E38 side asking about the pinout on the older abs control modules. Heres the content of that PM exchange today so that others may benefit from the effort. Quote I have recently bought bmw 1998 740iL Sedan E38. I have problems with abs Module & Wheel sensor. I read your post httpwww.bimmerfest.comforumssho...1&postcount48 but I have different abs Connector
Just did another check on my car going by info on this forum when started from cold warning lights out but no speedo or fuel swing meter sounds like it could be that abs computer but will double check it again in the morning to confirm. thank you to date for all the info i would of been lost without it
Hi yes there is sensors on each wheel however when the control unit went defective in the engine compartment i had to take my car to bmw to have it checked out and they found the speed sensors were ok and it was the control unit hence why i got it repaired and it has worked ok since. The speed sensors are fitted by one torque bolt but be careful removing it as bmw snapped mine whilst trying to get
understand what is in there and what I could damage trying to get it out. I have the new sensor installed but the lights are still on. I think I may have another problem. When replacing the engine I broke the pressure switch on the DSCabs control unit under the hood. I pulled it out and replaced it with a new one and by doing so I think I have got some air into the control unit. From reading my bmw
is out suggesting that it is the right rear again. I dont know what to do now. When I did bleed the brakes I was not able to depress the nipples on the abs Module. When I pushed on them with a small block of wood to depress them all at once they would not move at all so I dont know if I was really doing anything. Suggestions I went to my local indy guy that does nothing but Euro stuff but mostly bmw
This post by poolman in a thread today shows why we cant trust the mechanics when they tell us the Brake Pressure sensor is bad simply because theyre sometimes reading what the broken computer is telling the diagnostic port - E39 (1997 - 2003) abs sensor Quote Originally Posted by poolman My indy told me all of my sensors were OK and that my problem was brake pressure issueswhich became the rebuild of my abs unit
Wait until you get to a computer and do a search on abs trifecta. Go here and check sensor part numbers www.realoem.com
had the flywheel resurfaced. Turned out to be a pretty big job. The tranny is tough to get out and heavy. Putting it back in was some kind of chore. I mean for one guy anyway. But I like this car so I do it. And I just cant afford to pay someone else one or two thousand to fix a car thats worth about 3K. I called one of the Roundel advice techs today for some advice and he said he didnt think bmw
The light on signals a system failure. What you felt wasnt the abs it was something in the steering or suspension. Take the car to a gravel road or wet road and slam on the brakes the abs wont work. The only way to turn the light off is to fix the problem or remove the light. If you have the code read and cleared we can help you diagnose the part to replace. After the light turns off you will have
Quote Originally Posted by crisscross The light on signals a system failure. What you felt wasnt the abs it was something in the steering or suspension. Take the car to a gravel road or wet road and slam on the brakes the abs wont work. The only way to turn the light off is to fix the problem or remove the light. If you have the code read and cleared we can help you diagnose the part to replace. After
Just annoying.... I reset the tire preasure sensor. That didnt do anytyhing. So I tried disconnected the neg side of the battery hoping to reset the computer. Nope.... Now I have (4) codes now the Active Steering warning is on too. Great.... Its going to throughly piss me off if I have to take this to a shop to get these codes reset.
if thats true to be a wheel speed sensor - plus the wheel speed sensors are even easier to test (cuz of the lack of the diode effect) but I would ask the OP to defer to the thread Im gonna refer him to for specific details. The simple diagnostic procedure which works both for the newer and older E39s is well explained over here found simply by typing abs into the best links - How to diagnose the bmw
Quote Originally Posted by jeffstri What makes you think you can test the integrity of the circuit with a simple resistance or diode test Lets all work together to help refine the wheel speed sensor & abs control module diagnostic testing procedure Anything else is just idle talk (with nothing useful backing it up). Here is the best description of the wheel speed sensor operation I can find - bmw_30-PAGE_DSC_COMPONENTS.PDF
Safeway (which is a supermarket around here) for the thin wire. Just make sure you get a good DMM when you get it (or borrow a friends DMM). Some people have reported problems measuring that were solved with a better DMM. Unfortunately the only DMM I can vouch for is the Fluke so that warning doesnt help you all that much by way of details. I do suggest you think of it this way - You could pay bmw
repaired module when it returns and will check for 3 lights coming on after. If so i know i have a bad sensor as well. Came on Light cleared. 5 minutes later it came on. It was late in afternoon Saturday. Returned on Monday not happy camper I paid 600 fortwo sensors & labor. Service maanger good willed the abs computer .I had to pay 1 hour of labor to code it. All is well BUT IT SHOWS even with bmw
Quote Originally Posted by 16valex I need to understand this abs logic craziness. Dunno if it helps for a 97 but this PDF is chock full of details - bmw_30-PAGE_DSC_COMPONENTS.PDF (1.69 MB 4911 views) Quote Originally Posted by 16valex MY 97-528 abs light is ON. Interesting that its only the one light as you know most people who have wheel speed sensor issues get two or three lights (i.e. abs brake
are fine and all the right voltages are at the right place. The most common places for abs faults are faulty wheel sensors which you say youve checked abs relays abs Pump and abs computer. If you are sure the sensors arent your problem then move onto the next steps. Test the relays the abs computer and finally the Pump. The diagnostic tool to find the abs faults are not cheap. Besides the bmw
Hm i went for it and i think i lost. bmw e39 520 early 2000 replacement module. Pictures illustrate process. High resolution pictures. httpconventory.dkbmwbmw.zip I tried to solder point large enough forme to hit. However ChopperDoctor was right there are approx 10 connecting wires max 1 hair thick and approx 20 that are 05-1 mm thick. that i knew i could solder right. They are soo small they are hardly
are about 20-odd abs-related sensors. Presumably youre asking about the four wheel speed sensors. If so youll find more than you can possibly want to know about how to test those sensors (a few quick tests and a few slow tests) in this thread - E39 abs DIY NOTE Read the entire thread not just that one summary post for full details. Read what tools Quick99Si used to test using the same tools the bmw
Rustyzippper Thanks for the advice. Ill have my mechanic look at the wiring I mean sure it might be a faulty new sensor but I think the chances are higher than its something else like a wiring problem as you stated. Maybe ill have him go through the wiring first then if nothing works maybe try out the replacing the new sensor. Ill report back as soon as I have fixed it EDIT List of procedures - I found
by lild the car has to rerun 8 tests it performs after clearing the ses light ... normally it takes at least 40 miles ... but you could just drive the thing and wait to see if the light comes on. Hi Lild Thanks for taking the time to help me. Im pretty sure the light will never come on because the abs is brand newly rebuilt and all four speed sensors tested good. Im trying to figure out what the bmw
wheel from completely left to completely right then back again. If you did not recently drive on ice and the wheel turning solution did not work this is usually caused by either One of your wheel speed abs sensors failing (theres one on each wheel) The DSC pressure sensor on the brake master cylinder is faulty Your steering angle sensor has failed Your battery needs replacement An independent bmw
Its on the passenger side rear visible with your head next to the wheel on the inside. Youll need to get the butt up in the air safely ramps are probably best idea. I havent had the problem myself on my 3er but on another vehicle I own I had an abs light and it turned out to be the rear speed sensor. I swapped it out light went off problem solved for 15 and 10 mins of my time. Of course a bmw
xpcgamer Ill think about it ... its quite a project that needs tons of research electronic schematics and so on. Probably not worth the time to be honest. Does seems like an intriguing problem -p repandpresent Hate to say it but its likely the entire abs electronic unit. I had a chat with my independent mechanic who has the bmw diagnostics computers. I saw him run the tests -- the computers said speed
speed sensor DTC is known to occur when the abs control module is removed from the vehicle ( ask me how I know ) but its also something that resets itself simply by driving the FTC. A wrong-circumference tire can clearly trigger the traction control - but it wouldnt be a permanent thing. Ill leave others to correct where I err - as these are off the top of my head. See also - How to diagnose the bmw
Quote Originally Posted by bluebee quotebmw_n00b136059217]Get to an Indy with a GT 1 Actually I think this is one situation where the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools actually fail to accurately diagnose the problem. I dont really understand why (see Bills logic of testing abs sensors ) but I think it has mostly to do with the fact that the tools arent connected in the right place (which is in between
Interesting discussion here My 535i also got the dreaded trifecta problem this weekend. Everything speed related was dead or behaving erratically. No GPS odo trip speedometer consumption auto doorlocks cruise control. Servotronic steering went up and down. I went to my local bmw techie and he hooked up a diagnostic computer which indicated the rear left wheelsensor was producing erratic pulses. He
failure it is intermittent. It took about a month for mine trifecta to come on full time. Quote Originally Posted by Z4NL Interesting discussion here My 535i also got the dreaded trifecta problem this weekend. Everything speed related was dead or behaving erratically. No GPS odo trip speedometer consumption auto doorlocks cruise control. Servotronic steering went up and down. I went to my local bmw
Quote Originally Posted by richterbmw When I said the pin out wasnt correct I was talking about the harness under the hood where all of the points come together and plug into the abs module. EDIT Im very sorry the DIY caused you to buy a sensor you didnt need. I understand. You trusted the DIY and it failed you. I feel badly about that. I wish there was a good description of the pinout for the E46.
Quote Originally Posted by Piriaka Hi everyone there in Beemer land I have today been advised by my bmw dealer that the central control unit (something like that its called) for my cars abs requires repair (at may be NZD700 give or take) or replacement if it cant be repaired (at approx NZD2000). I has some other work done on the car and this was the problem diagnosed as a result of the abs warning
You probably went over this excellent DIY by bluebee read post 48 carefully httpwww.bimmerfest.comforumssho...beeabs&page2 Then read a bit on how Bosch abs DSC works. It is not that hard to understand in laymans language. - The Bosch (or Siemens) computer is the Brain. - Speed sensors count the number of revolutions on each wheel. Inisde each wheel sensor there is magnetic winding similar to a transformer.
and anti-lock system cant function. Thats why you get the warning lights. The shaking steering wheel COULD be rotors but it could as be an issue with a tire or worn suspension bushings or loose wheel bearings etc. Do you feel pulsation in the brake pedal Sometimes warped rotors will cause the pedal to pulsate as the brake pads are pushed back and forth. The question is somewhat irrelevant since bmw
abs sensors vs. brake pad sensors.. Front vs. back.. Its easy to get confused. The auto tranny is getting speed info from one of the front abs sensors. (cant remember which one) Your speedometer and cruise control is getting speed info from one of the rear abs sensors. So when your speedometer works fine and your tranny is acting up i think it is fair to assume that one of your front abs sensors is