My first thought was that it was an alarm system that got in a strange mode after the battery died but as you dont have an alarm that cant be the case. On your 2001 all of the circuitry involved is located within the flasher relay module. The module gets ignition switched power from the 10A GAUGE fuse and constant power from the 10A HAZ fuse. The flasher module has two outputs to the left and right
power locks try pulling the 25A DL fuse from the under dash fuse panel to see if that makes the problem stop. hey man thanks for taking the time to post the info above unfortunately removing the 25A DL fuse did not stop the hazards from flashing removing the 10A HAZ fuse stops them or removing the flasher relay itself. I have since also managed to get my hands on a servicerepair manual for the yaris
I just noticed that there are also power inputs from the DOME and GAUGE fuses to the door lock control system so you would also have to remove those two to verify that the door lock control relay is the culprit.
Has it done that since it was new Perhaps that is a feature to still see the clock and fuel level. Those are both functions of the combination meter ECU which gets both constant power and ignition switched power so it could easily keep those on after the ignition is off and then do a time out on them. As for residual battery current the 2nd gen yaris shipped with a 45 Ah battery. I cant imagine that toyota would have changed that for the 3rd gen.
MSD is a good quality product but is not needed or intended for most modern vehicles. These were hot stuff back in the days when cars came with a mechanical points ignition systems but they dont do anything for a modern car and would be a waste of money on a yaris.
If youre running crazy high boost (like 30psi and up) on a very big and powerful turbo with loads of race fuel on an engine revving like crazy making 700wheel HP and up you will need an ignition amplifier. OR if you run a stand-alone ECU that converts your ignition system into a wasted-spark ignition system (like the AEM EMS Gen1 PnP ECU) you will need an ignition amplifier to make it easier otherwise spend close to eternity finding the right dwell settings.
Quote Originally Posted by Tamago find your power in better places people. I disagree on a lot of things with what Tamago says (although I just keep it to myself lol) I have to agree with him completely on this one especially with an engine like ours. Putting an ignition amplifier in our lightly tuned (IHE)cars with bolt-ons even a small turbo and sc bolted on is quite frankly overkill. IF your car
Quote Originally Posted by Reddog99 Regarding spark voltage thats not exactly right. The voltage required to jump the gap depends on the pressure in the combustion chamber at that time more pressure requires more voltage. Thats why an engine with a weak spark system can run OK at low speeds and start missing at high RPM or under load. So for example although 3kv might be sufficient to spark a plug at idle 40kv or more might be required for a spark to jump a gap at full throttle & high RPM. so let say i have a brand new yaris... would it do any good if i buy more powerful sparkplugs
ya....most cars will do that with a steering wheel lock. if u park downhill n turn your wheels...the steering wheel will lock and its a pain but turn in one direction or the other while EASILY turning the key....when all slots are lined up it will turn like butter. its a safety thing and GM has stepped away from it thinkin their keys and security systems will keep the fuel from starting ignition without the key....but thats over-ridden now too. theives will do anything and can with technology. any way...toyota doesnt use chips in their keys so they still use the wheel lock setup.
Quote Originally Posted by CTScott This mod makes the headlights turn off when the ignition is turned off preventing one from killing the battery when accidentally leaving the headlights on. With this mod in order to leave the headlights or parking lights on the key will need to be in the ignition switch and turned to the on position.... remote start systems sometimes turn on the parking lights. would
Quote Originally Posted by homerj remote start systems sometimes turn on the parking lights. would this diy affect that EDIT W. ANSWER It wouldnt because a) the ignition would be on and b) it works after the switch and turns it on directly Thats correct. I installed a remote starter on mine and the parking lights still come on when I remote start or flash when I lockunlock.
Under the hood the easiest place to grab ignition switched power is from the red wire in pin 28 of the ECM connector A21 (the smaller of the two). Conn A21.jpg By the way lets see some pics of the H2 system.
That wire location works just like I needed. Your the Man CTScott. While the 2008 was up here today I did take a few pictures but these would have been better during the install with the front bumper cover off. Ill post them anyway. The first one is of the actual hydrogen manufacturing device. We installed it between the front cover and the plastic insert in beside the radiator. This is where the distilled water and pellet mixture works with the 12 volt system to produce hydrogen.
httpi1131.photobucket.comalbums...Osystem003.jpg This is a relay which needs to be cleaned up yet. Here you have the main 12volts coming from the battery to the relay then you have the positive lead from the relay going to the hydrogen production unit in the first picture. The other wire is coming from a switch inside the vehicle which lets you turn the system on.
httpi1131.photobucket.comalbums...Osystem004.jpg This is the control switch. When it is on your hydrogen is being produced. When it is off your safe to leave the motor off and sleep well. Now remembering to turn off the system when leaving the car is tough for some so thats why this thread was started. We needed to find a power source that only supplied power to this system when the ignition was switched on with the key. CTScott gave the info which worked 100%. Thanks Scott.
Quote Originally Posted by mikeukrainetz how often do people have a brown out or alternator overload in their cars I was running a fairly powerful audio system but even then the stock and aftermarket alternator should have been more then enough. I fried my oem alt and changed it along with a new battery but and ended up changing then alt 3 more times within 4 months. Each time the volatage regulator
Quote Originally Posted by vincentg so perhaps a tune up would be necessary as 09sedan said plugs cured his problem so it might very slight probable might. cure your problem. But a tune up as im sure your aware at many places means nothing more than new plugs. I encourage you to try doing them yourself. I havent tried doing any of these new coil on plug type ignition systems. But plugs are the the
try using it taken apart. I suspect that somehow the plastic is pushing the buttons when you squeeze the key or twist it in the ignition to start it.
to prevent the battery from back feeding the solar panel when the ignition is on. I really dont think that this would be very effective though as the air intake is the black plastic wiper cowling which would do a good job of heating the relatively slow flow of air into the car. Also unless you left your windows partially open the hot air wouldnt escape from the car. Having a moon roof on my yaris
this came from httpwww.yarisworld.comforumsshowthread.phpt10195 Radio ignition gray radio harness is that the remote wire to splice into for the amp
Quote Originally Posted by RyanRedyaris just asking for help please dont knock on me i have the 2009 yaris hatch S i would hook my remote wire up to the gray ignition wire in the head unit and does anyone know of WestCoast Customs 12 800W Dual Subwoofer Powerbox SPL of it or SQ or ever heard one before For the wiring info... go to the sticky at the top of this forum itll tell you which wire for the
or even better the Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14 with 1352 cc Liquid-cooled 4-stroke In-Line Four 121 compression ratio DOHC 16 valves fuel injection digital ignition electric starting 140 kw (187 hp) 9500 rpm 147.1 kw (200 ps)(197 hp) 9500 rpm with RAM air 154 Nm (113.5 lbft) 7500 rpm and a 6-speed transmission.
Quote Originally Posted by maxthehax Thanks that would be a perfect starting point to find the actual problem. To be more precise I should prime the pump with that connector off and see if I get any fuel delivery. Should I prepare for something messy P I would start with simply disconnecting it. You should get a little spray as you do so wrap it with a rag before pulling it apart. If you dont get a
Quote Originally Posted by CTScott I would start with simply disconnecting it. You should get a little spray as you do so wrap it with a rag before pulling it apart. If you dont get a good pssssst then you can simply turn the ignition to the ON position (you dont need to crank it) and the fuel pump will start running to maintain pressure so you should then get a good flow of fuel (have a container
Ground wire K rewind what wires are you running Lets go on ahead and go into brief detail on what type of system youre wiring up from what ive read you have Line Output Converter which will have you RCAs running to the amp from. Youll need a remote wire which D10-3 will provide for you if wired correctly. Youll need a Fused 8 Gauge 4 Gauge or 0 Gauge wire ran from your battery for power. Your
You can actually do it manually it becomes second nature after a while... You can even turn off the ignition when coasting to a stop...
320lbs) Automatic 1073kg (2365lbs) 5DR RS Manual 1059kg (2335lbs) Automatic 1082kg (2385lbs) I have a manual yaris but it wont start why All modern cars with manual transmission have a safety switch that is connected to the clutch. In order to start a manual car you need to fully depress the clutch and while in the depressed position turn the ignition on. What bulbs are used in the yaris 2007 toyota
It is possible to monitor the condition of the oil in real-time. Some cars have such a thing. One method detects the percentage of particulate material. New oil has very little dirty oil is loaded with carbon particles. Wiki pedia has good information on turbidity. toyota tell us in the owners manual how to reset the light Buried on page 121 of the handy manual..... ref 2007 yaris hatchback from Jan
A reading shown. 2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position while holding down the trip meter reset knob. Hold down the knob for at leat 5 seconds. The indication light flashes and the bars displayed in the odometer disappear gradually. The odometer indicates 000000 and the light goes off. If the system fails to reaset the light will continue flashing. Well these instructions seem reasonable. toyota
sense Quote Originally Posted by imknotright My 07 yaris Sedan with factory keyless only came with one remote key (Which seems to be normal). I wasnt going to pay the 200 plus dollars for one from the dealer. I found one on ebay for under 100 (MAKE SURE THE FCC ID INSIDE MATCHES YOUR CURRENT REMOTE) . I got it cut & then programed it myself. For factory keyless remotes I used instructions for toyota
lower compression engines. but I just build performance engines for a living and actually test them using the proper equipment..WTF would I know about fuels and the affects right Dont confuse RON and PON people A 89 RON octane rating is PON (pump octane rating) of 86 when you look in the manual and see a research octane rating of 91 that does not mean to use 91 pumop octane... 91 RON 87 PON. toyota
needs reprogramming and while Ive seen lots of posts with instructions on how to do this they all involve putting the keys on the ignition. This isnt possible for me but Id rather avoid having to tow my car to the garage to sort this out so if anyone knows how to reprogramme the fob for this type of yaris Id be eternally gratefully grateful Reprogramming for the smart entry system requires the toyota
not affect the car while its being driven. The relay stays in the normally closed position if the alarm looses power or damaged the car can still start. The only time the relay will activated when the alarm is triggered and the ignition is turned on. The starter kill relay is rarely activated which prolongs life. 90% of new alarms with starter kill uses relays. There are several relays used by toyota
Local toyota dealer is very fast efficient and accomodating so far. They let you bring in your Costco purchased Mobil 1 and leave off the charge for their normally supplied 5W-30 oil. Works for me. I treat my two new toyotas like I did my ALFAs - me or a trusted mechanic ONLY. Just like the ALFAs the yaris has an Aluminum engine. Bolt threading and tightening and even coolant are all special and can
Ya.. Drives 2007 toyota yaris LB He didnt say that he noticed it in the opening post. Regardless when I went to the local shop they said they are going to use my valet key to do the bypass. They werent sure if my car needed the bypass and told me to turn it on and look to see if there was a key symbol when I started my car up near the spedometer and there was. I guess that is the key immobilizer. If
This wire is factory programmed as ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or 2nd starter. One of the other ignition 2 wire (didnt use) is labeled () 30a fused ignition 2 flex relay pin 87 input. and the other ignition 2 wire (also didnt use) is labled 87a of ignition 2 flex relay. This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehical is necessary. This is common on toyota
Most are but not all. There are also Company-specific codes. Here is the universal list P0001-P0099 - Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control CircuitOpen P0002 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit RangePerformance P0003 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Low P0004 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High P0005 Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control CircuitOpen