sure it was the fuel pump relay behind the dashboard. We ended up outside in the Cineplex parking lot for an hour. NO tools and a smoking hot lot. Same symptoms as the Echo. It ended up being a bad distributor. Could very well be the fuel pump relay though... Quote Originally Posted by bronsin I am trying to help oneone on another forum who is having a problem with their ECHO. Since ECHOs and yariss
I had an Accord with the distributor problem. It was replaced by Honda for free even though the car had 100000 miles on it and we werent the origional owners. Of course the echo doesnt has a distributor...
haha pwned me on that thank goodness never had to pay a cent for repairs on the Echo. Btw were you the original owner on the Accord Quote Originally Posted by bronsin I had an Accord with the distributor problem. It was replaced by Honda for free even though the car had 100000 miles on it and we werent the origional owners. Of course the echo doesnt has a distributor...
Quote Originally Posted by digitalrain haha pwned me on that thank goodness never had to pay a cent for repairs on the Echo. Btw were you the original owner on the Accord No I wasnt. And there was another person in the shop with the same problem. They only had one distributor. We were first in line and we got it and the other guy had to wait a week to get his car running...
The fuel pump power is switched by both the EFI and COPN relays (both of which are part of the integration relay assembly in the under-hood fuse panel). That module would be the other thing that I would suspect. If you have a multimeter I can walk you through how to test the two relays within it.
If the relay contacts are intermittently contacting then the car would still start some of the time. Integration relay.jpg The EFI relay is in the integration relay. Its coil is connected to pins 2 and 3 of connector 1A. If you measure the resistance between those two pins you should a resistance under 100 ohms. If that looks fine you can fire the relay using a 9 volt battery and two pieces of wire.
I was able to double check pins 4B-11 and 4A-8. With Key ON there was 12v at pin 4B-11 and nothing at 4A-8. I threw 12v to the fuel pump and I could here it run. I checked continuity between pin 4A-8 and the black wire at the fuel pump under the back seat and it appears to be the same wire. I tried to start the car while supplying 12v to the fuel pump to no avail. The car has had this problem since
Quote Originally Posted by Edmond I was able to double check pins 4B-11 and 4A-8. With Key ON there was 12v at pin 4B-11 and nothing at 4A-8. I threw 12v to the fuel pump and I could here it run. I checked continuity between pin 4A-8 and the black wire at the fuel pump under the back seat and it appears to be the same wire. I tried to start the car while supplying 12v to the fuel pump to no avail.
actually the toyota new car warranty covers the tow and a rental during repair. if it is bad fuel go to the local parts store and get some iso-heet and a fuel system cleaner best bet is to get it towed to the dealer relays pump ecu injector or electrical are all covered under the new car warranty.
Quote Originally Posted by tylerwatts53 Hi folks Im hoping to tap into the collective wisdom here. I have an 07 yaris that I bought new. Weve put 170000 miles on it so far and it has been trouble-free except for routine maintenance (oilfilters tires plugs 120K mi etc.). Friday we all got in (wifekids and I usually carpool) and it started as usual but then sputtered and died not a block out of the
Quote It sounds like the relay that controls the fuel pump is not firing. Did you verify that the fuel pump is not receiving power when you turn the ignition on Yes insofar as I turned the key to ON and listened to see if I could hear the fuel pump turn on (and it did not). Quote Cold in Indiana Ice in fuel line Happened to me once many many years ago. Thought about that-- I did put some Heet in the
expensive a task that is Thanks guys for your speedy replies With the heavy addition of alcohol to Winter gas these days ice in the fuel lines has become a rare occurrence. If it is indeed the bad relay replacing the body ECU is a bit of a hassle because of all of the connections to it and the fact that you really need to remove the dash top to get to it properly. A replacement is over 600 from toyota
Quote Originally Posted by tylerwatts53 Wow sure am glad I did not have to pull that body ECU out Car ran fine all day today so Im hoping this is the end of it. But as you said now I at least know how to hotwire the fuel pump relay if indeed this occurs again (the MacGyver solution) Thanks again Scott PS--I love your yaris utility vehicle snow plow Has that thing kept up with all of the snow this year
Where is the fuel pump relay I popped off the little storage thing near the driver side knee and removed a blue relay but the car keeps running. The drawing in the manual is not helpful so far.
fuel from spraying out under pressure when you disconnect something later on that I have not read yet. (1) Locate and remove the fuse box panel under dash. (It is located under the dash on the driver&8217s side). Locate and remove fuel pump relay. It is the blue relay on the right hand side above the fuses Guess what That blue relay isnt it After an hour of searching for the relay and calling toyota
Quote Originally Posted by slow.yaris Wouldnt fuel pump spark plugs sensors all throw a code I would check for codes even if its not showing up the LED could be bad or previous owner could have taken it out. I understand the warming and cooling down thing but I think it would be really weird to have a fuel pump or spark plugs that wont START when warm but give you no trouble when driving around - while
Quote My gut makes me think it might be something like the fuel pump relay im gonna second this one. if the fuel pump relay coil side gets hot and worn it will have a hard time producing a current thru the coil to get a good enough magnet to pull (or push) the switching side of the relay. when the relay is cooled down enough current can run easily thru the coil and create a stronger magnetic coil.
Most are but not all. There are also Company-specific codes. Here is the universal list P0001-P0099 - fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls P0001 fuel Volume Regulator Control CircuitOpen P0002 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit RangePerformance P0003 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Low P0004 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High P0005 fuel Shutoff Valve A Control CircuitOpen
Quote Originally Posted by Gav Finally I had to bring car to toyota Mauritius for repairs. They need to change the main fuse box 82730-52371 and relay so as to bring back communication in the car. It is only then that they can troubleshoot further. At first they told me the fuse box is out of stock in Japan now they telling me they dont have it anymore and will need to build one. Is that possible 1
When it died it would turn over but not start. I just drove the car 17 miles with no problem. What relay runs the fuel pump
The next time the car does not start and after youve verified that there is good spark hit your fuel tank a few times from underneath. Sometimes a bad fuel pumps rotorcommutator can land on a dead spot and so the pump would not operate even when fed 12 volts from a good EFI relay.
id run a full injector cleaner after about 50k miles and be done with it till 100k. u can gtet a shop-air operated fuel system cleaner from macmatcosnapon. and you might be able to get one from autozone. any way pull out fuel pump relay or fuse (pref fuse if its easy) run car till it dies. pull fuel line and find adapter for the tool. insert and install tool adapter connect to tool. fill tool bottle
Quote Originally Posted by linny There are no fault codes found by an OBD reader. No fault codes would suggest that either the starter is not cranking the engine fast enough. Since you have fitted a new battery check all the battery connections particularly the earth to the engine and body. If the engine must crank fast enough for the crankshaft position sensor to send a signal to the ECU to switch
The EFI fuse directly feeds the EFI relay the ECM the COPN relay (which feeds the fuel pump) the airflow meter the evaporative VSV valve the ISC valve and the two O2 sensors. So besides the ECM it could be any of those other devices. The fact that it worked for a bit after pulling swapping and re-swapping the ECM makes me wonder if one or more of the ECM connector wires go hot enough to melt through
Quote Originally Posted by CTScott The red wire is not an ideal place to grab switched power. That is the feed to the fuel pump. I installed the fogs using this method without problem until a couple of months ago. Assuming I get them working again the same way are you suggesting I could end up with problems down the road To Focus_Sh1ft how exactly did you hook the white wire to the battery Did you
Quote Originally Posted by M4One I installed the fogs using this method without problem until a couple of months ago. Assuming I get them working again the same way are you suggesting I could end up with problems down the road To Focus_Sh1ft how exactly did you hook the white wire to the battery Did you wired it like in my diagram just getting rid of the relay or through a different method Ripping
httpblitzperformancesales.comtec...scionxb-xa.pdf step 39 - Locate the main fuse box under the hood. Remove the fuel pump relay (listed as AM2) It is located in the engine compartment on the drivers side shock tower. Replace the 15A fuse with the supplied 20A fuse. Hopefully this will be your biggest problem good luck with everything
Oh man. Even I feel the urge to find and bodily harm whoever did that to your baby. I dont like the laws in California at all when it comes to guns. There is definitely something reassuring about having the right to protect yourself and your property. It would be very upsetting and aggravating if that right was stripped from me. Plus Id miss my HK mini compact. I know at night On my Kia I removed a