Quote Originally Posted by CTScott I know what you mean. Actually the fuel flow rate is calculated from the MAF flow rate (theres not a standard PID for fuel flow) so even that is an approximation. Really I thoughtt that the fuel pump would have a flow rate sensor to properly inform the ecu. I wonder how practical or easy would it be to get a flow meter attached to the fuel pump intake i know they exist for mercedez and other higher end cars.
Quote Originally Posted by CTScott I know what you mean. Actually the fuel flow rate is calculated from the MAF flow rate (theres not a standard PID for fuel flow) so even that is an approximation. Okso i found some stuff that could help us brainstorm a proof of concept if anyone is interestedfor the yaris Here is a company that specializes in flow meter. Technology httpwww.cox-instruments.comgasflowmeters.html
So here is are the sensors my OBDII scanner is picking up Throttle position engine RPM vehicle speed calculated load value &37 Ignition timing advance intake air flow rate short term fule trim long term fuel trim air temperature engcoolant temp oxygen sensor 2 fuel level. Im thinking there has got to be more than this because the ECU (I cant remember what that stands for now) processes a lot of stuff.
Higher octane fuel dont burn slower...in most cases burn rates are the same provding the fuel additives are the same in both octane fuels.... if they do its because of additives in the fuel ill get to that later. A higher octane simply means it has a higher flash point meaning it takes more heat and compression to ignite the mixture. 10.51 is not a high compression engine and does not require a high
The fuel controller does two things 1. Activates the SC clutch based on throttle position. There is an input to the fuel controller from the SC activation switch that tells it which position the switch is in (lowmediumhigh). Based on that switch the throttle controller closes the relay to engage the clutch and begins the second part of its job. 2. Adds fuel based on MAF sensor signal. The Blitz fuel
can you prove it not unless theres a dyno chart plotting two different octanes then all the words that someone writes just means bullsht to me not unless is proven in numbers on the same car with a base of 87 octane. and it aint in my head the cars performance is better and im know for a fact i dont have problems with my tc or the yaris. if a car that is rated for 91 octane puts 87 octane in there
AFAIK all ECUs have a programmed curve for maximum advance at an optimal performance level with a knock sensor that retards the spark a bit when detonation occurs.
car sometimes shifts in weird intervals. A few days it will shift at 30 and 40...then sometime 35 and 45. It is always all over the place when shifting. Most likely temp related.. It will stay in lower gear if the engine is cool (the little temp symbol with cool on it shows up to indicate delayed shifting on my 2010 yaris). Quote Originally Posted by Twistoffate0817 I have taken the car to the toyota
on the fly. Especially us knuckleheads who didnt know how to find vacuum leaks. The lean lope was the first warning sign then wed discover knock. I dont know if VVT has anything to do with solving knock. Who can say I would not be surprised if there were some operating regimes that could use a change in valve timing to improve performance or eliminate knock. I have a lot of confidence in toyotas
Most are but not all. There are also Company-specific codes. Here is the universal list P0001-P0099 - fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls P0001 fuel Volume Regulator Control CircuitOpen P0002 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit RangePerformance P0003 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Low P0004 fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High P0005 fuel Shutoff Valve A Control CircuitOpen
Quote Originally Posted by Krusher Ok time to dumb it down a bit... the CEL comes on for more than just the gas cap being off... or loose. Yeah well dumb it way down. The cap reads Tighten 1-click or PCM may trip a code not Fill until nozzle clicks once Quote When the ECM goes into self-check it will run the evap system... if the pressuresvolts do not fall within a specified range then the CEL will
fuel vapor. If you put more liquid into the canister it will shorten its life... by how much Unknown to me but if youre keeping your car dont you not want to spend about 300 for a canister until you really have to My car is covered bumper-to-bumper for 7 years75K miles (excluding typical maintenance items carpet etc...) but thats beside the point. If topping off tanks flooded charcoal canisters toyota
a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. Thats a 35 hp gain from stock. So 1000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me. He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills... Finally... he has a really nice car right there... If it is actually an RS vitz... is Lighter than the US Yar Has 4 wheel disc brakes Traction control ABS Factory mild sport tuned suspension... Plus the yaris
Could be a few things. Things that come to mind are -low fuel pressure (cause lack of power and fuel knock because it is too lean) -barometer not working to compensate for the altitude change (not too common and to be honest I dont know what the yaris uses to sense altitude. Possibly the fuel tank pressure sensor) I would start by checking fuel pressure and volume. Cheers. PS and yeah dont forget its a 1.5L. Flooring it to get over mountains is normal. On level ground not so much.
Quote Originally Posted by eTiMaGo Yes but what I mean is if you want to run a richer than stoich ratio without the ECU freaking out you need to fool it into receiving normal signals. Say that at stoich (14.71 AFR) the O2 sensor has a voltage of 2.5V Your target AFR is lets say 121 which would (Im guessing) correspond to a voltage of 3.5V from the sensor. The trick would thus be to change this 3.5V
Quote Originally Posted by corey415 That hasnt been proven. I have read multiple sources that say adding higher octane when not required is simply throwing money away. The yaris motor requires 87 octane. Putting in 85 octane wont damage the motor I am pretty sure it has a knock sensor. The motor will have to retard its timing so that means you will get less performance and perhaps lower fuel economy.
FWIW if you know how a transmission works AUTO or MANUAL a gear ratio CAN NOT CHANGE ON ITS OWN. RPM MUST be the same. Ron is 100% correct Adding any component to the intake or exhaust CAN NOT lower or raise your gear ratio or cruise speed RPM. Its impossible. If you say it can please by all means explain this mechanical phenomenon to us Man I love it when people that have no idea how fuel injection
Quote Originally Posted by Violin I guess that Carnot guy was full of crap then. Yeah in guess so. Do you reall think at car cruising at 20% throttle is allowing the same amount of air into the engine as a car running 80% throttle. NO WAY... The fuel injection system must accurately and constantly change the fuel trims to provide the propera mount of fuel for the right amount of air. it does this with
Quote Originally Posted by caineroad nice i am trying to see if they carry it. I hope there wont be any scratches all over it must have came from a totalled yaris. Does the digital dash work for you after moving some wires Apart from the kmmiles do you think is good Everything seems to work fine with it. I have it installed on Crashy and just plowed once since I received it but speed tach fuel level etc all worked. I havent wired up the ambient temp sensor yet so I always see 0 C for temp.
Quote Originally Posted by camelll Well I just put the factory hose on and bypassed the catch can and I am still getting the lean condition. I am in the process of pulling the MAF again and try cleaning that one more time. If that dont work then the next time I get the oil changed and I will have them replace the pcv valve and then if that dont work then the only thing left to do is to start replacing
Figure out your MPGLP100KM and compare it to your old figures. fuel gauges are not very accurate and the ability of fuel level sensor to measure can change over time. Your gauge may be reading empty with more fuel left in the tank than before so saying I went 400KM before the gauge started blinking is not an accurate measurement.
Quote Originally Posted by Neurotic Hapi Snak Figure out your MPGLP100KM and compare it to your old figures. fuel gauges are not very accurate and the ability of fuel level sensor to measure can change over time. Your gauge may be reading empty with more fuel left in the tank than before so saying I went 400KM before the gauge started blinking is not an accurate measurement. no point when the last bar flashes i am already filling 38-40L of gas before the pump clicks.
VVT-I changes the valave timing and compression according to engine rpm Too much valve overlap makes for poor low end performance and rough idle. But a cam with more overlap anor longer valve duration (how long it holds the valves open) is better for top end performance. VVT-I allows the engine to run two several cam timing settings. Basically its like having two intake cams. One normal and one performance
My daughters car seem to idle low and loose pick-up and have flat spot on throttle tip-in when the heater or headlights or radio are on. Is there a power buss or GND I can check that may be intermittent Also does the Cluster dimmer use PWM PSU for voltage control for brightnes or is it just a ballast pot (Im thinking NO here in digital age). Reason I ask is I was driving here car and someone knocked-off
Quote Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth My daughters car seem to idle low and loose pick-up and have flat spot on throttle tip-in when the heater or headlights or radio are on. Is there a power buss or GND I can check that may be intermittent Also does the Cluster dimmer use PWM PSU for voltage control for brightnes or is it just a ballast pot (Im thinking NO here in digital age). Reason I ask is
your best bet if looking to piece together a cheap kit would be to buy a used or new mitsubishi 14b turbo new (450) buy lightly used Scion tc injectors (off of someone who has upgraded to a turbo on theirs) an inexpensive small intercooler like mishimoto (125) buy a bunch of mendrel bent aluminum piping on ebay (100) buy some simple steel bends and the flanges for the turbo manifold. and then live
Quote Originally Posted by BailOut I would not do it often. I was educated by the GM dealership my rental Aveo was serviced at after I threw a CEL for using neutral like that. Lets just say that they are not fans of the transmission used in the Aveo. GM in my experience has this tendency to slap something together sometimes especially their drive train components and more so lately. The Turbo 400 and
do exactly that on many vehicles. It was true on my 98 Neon DOHC and it is true on these engines. How could removing it possibly save money The compression ratio has not changed...the engine configuration has not changed...so the only thing that would change is the engine control programming. There is no cost savings to be had there and there is no scarcity of memory or processor to make toyota