I took a quick look at the car yesterday. The shifter in the car will not move its very hard when I tried to pull it down to neutral and seem to stuck in the 5th gear position. Im afraid to break it if I pull it too hardmany times. Ill check the shifter cables when I have more time. Since I cant even move the shifter in the car is there a manual release process I can perform to dis-engage it Any other things I should check before disconnecting the shift cables Thank You
I finally got the chance to check the shifter and the cables. I disconnected the 2 cables attached to the transmission and it shift fine in all direction. It looks like the problem is inside the transmission. Im not handy enough nor have the right gear to remove the transmission to look inside. Is there anything else I can check myself b4 bringing it to a professional Thanks again to all the help.
The job is a good DIY. When replacing the cylinder bench bleed it first. Basically this is filling the reservoir with fluid then with the line to the slave cylinder disconnected the pump the master cylinder until all the air comes out. You can do this with the cylinder in or out of the car. The fluid will damage paint wash off any fluid the comes into contact with paint.
yeh it is a basic modd i also went to me brake and clutch shop in town and asked them about it and they told me it would be alot cleaper if i was to goto a wreckers and get the rear brake setup of a V6 verson of the car coz its a straite bolt off bolt on item so there u go thats my 2 cents worth hope that helps
Not sure if its the same as my 94 but here are the ones for mine. I know the cylinder s go up to 12 cylinders because this is for all toyotas at the time. This included the 12cyl toyota Century which was only availbe in Japan. P0010 A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0011 A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) P0012 A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded
jumped the magnetic compressor clutch. It was dark before I could trace his jumper so Im not sure but I did see what I believe is an extra wire that now connects to the compressorclutch. Further analysis over the weekend will confirm. I also discovered that this part is apparently not manufactured any longer but there are several picknpull part locations in the DFW area with several dozen gen 2 camrys.
So My catalytic converter has not shown up and I need to replace it in order to pass emissions. While I was sitting here today waiting for it to arrive I played with the AC system some more in the hopes I can resolve that issue once I can legally drive to picknpull parts to get replace the AC amp... frustrating to say the least considering the AC runs like a champ except the clutch burnt up two days
First find out what model trans the car has. Unless the car has 4-wheel drive the early camry had an A140L and A140E. The E series was a later model having electric shift solenoids controlled by the computer. The trans should have an ID plate attached to it. Location should be on top of the trans bell housing behind the drivers side of the engine. Look also on the drivers door edge for a sticker that
Not fully up to speed on the 09 model but would assume the AC system should work the same as your wifes 05. This stated is there a way to turn the AC off at the controls given all the automation in the climate system If AC is off compressor should be off. If you are up to it you can turn the AC compressor or system off as follows Inside the engine compartment drivers side is long plastic box. Inside
Im going to verify that i located the correct wire but i disconnected what i believe was the correct wire and it kept running - i also tried to spin the pulley but could not (i could on my wifes 05) im also going to check on the warranty as im getting the sense this is a compressor clutch failure thanks again for all the help - will update soon
so far we have a bunch of seems and appears. ac pulley can not be turned from hand. ac clutch plate can not be turned from hand too as its splined to ac compressor shaft and compressor can not be turned from hand. unfortunately Nippon Denso climate control has tendency to stubbornly turn on ac to keep windshield deofogged. Esp on a vehicle with outside temp sensor as it calculates some algorythm for
The seat has one motor for every seat function such as seat slide back and forth seat up and down etc. The seat control switch and motors are all powered by the same electrical power source. If one motor is working OK power is getting to the switch box that controls all the seat motors. The control box has the switches you control the seat with one switch per motor. The motors have two power wires
trans itself the trans dip stick will not indicate low fluid as a result of the leak. If the diff runs out of fluid it will ruined. Typical leakage areas is the seal where the axle goes into the diff housing. Draining the pan removes only 13 of the fluid quantity in the trans the rest is in the torque converter. Would not reuse old fluid. You are only changing 13 of the fluid. You need not use toyota
Overfilling auto trans BAD Always drain out excess never overfill. Theres no blow off valve or anything like that. Overfilling fluid will blow the seals and mess up trans as your neighbor has unfortunately found out. Hopefully its not too late to drain out excess and maybe no permanent damage done its a toyota. Id wash the engine too and see where that leaks coming from as well. To your second question.
Why was the compressor replaced and who did the work The compressor will only engage if the AC system is on and even when on the compressor will cycle on and off. The compressor has a magnetic clutch that engages the drive pulley. Find the wire to the clutch and disconnect it. Then do your tests as before and determine if the compressor is still making the same noise. If so the problem could be the
well its not the compressor. those are quite tough to break. its your compressor clutch. 1. beltease or equivalent is only a temp fix belt needs to be replaced 2. clutch belt pulley and magnetic system with friction plates that engage when current runs through coils. also some sort of dampener similar to one in clutch plate. normally pulley spins along with engine but when magnets fire it is caught
How much fluid was being added after the trans began to slip How are you measuring the trans fluid level If using the hot mark on the stick the fluid needs to be hot trans in park engine on. The cold mark is less accurate. Electric solenoids are for shifting through the forward gears. The selection of D or R is done manually with the shift lever. One test is to disconnect the electrical plug to the
Quote Originally Posted by toyomoho How much fluid was being added after the trans began to slip How are you measuring the trans fluid level If using the hot mark on the stick the fluid needs to be hot trans in park engine on. The cold mark is less accurate. Electric solenoids are for shifting through the forward gears. The selection of D or R is done manually with the shift lever. One test is to disconnect
The AC magnetic clutch could have a short. Find the wire to the AC magnetic clutch and disconnect it. Typically there would be one power wire with a plug connection the compressor body acting as the ground path. The clutch is incorporated into the drive pulley. The wire would be running into this area. Caution the compressor may also have 2 wires for a speed sensor. One of these wires might be the same color. The sensor is mounted on the compressor body away from the magnetic clutch.
It is possible the one-way clutch on the torque converter is bad. This will result in the car not being able to move in any forward or reverse gear. The fix is to replace the clutch or complete converter. If the converter was drained it may not self prime the result is the same as above. The computer turns the solenoids onoff to shift gears or lock up the converter. The manually gear selector will
Patonium follow the line from the master cylinder to the accum disconnect it from there and extend it to the slave its that simple bleed from the slave and you will have full pedal once more this accumulator is there to make the pedal lighter it may have been there to slow down the flow of fluid on release to protect the clutch assembly when you dump the clutch .. but i am driving mine normally with
clutch clutch disc flywheel & rear main seal replaced....now I wonder if i should replace the fuel filter...I did it back at 180k miles...now 343k.....
If the fans continue to run with ign key off and turning ign key to ON stops the fans from operating what happens when the ign key is again turned to OFF. When the engine running do the fans run constantly never turning off The fan control system is not simple The statements below are generalized. The system has 3 relays numbered 1 2 and 3 plus 2 fans. Relay 1 is the main relay No 2 is used to set
Unfortunately the Gauge fuse powers a host of items you may need a hand full of fuses or some kind of circuit breaker that can be temporarily installed. Items powered in full or part by the fuse RedBlue wire going alternator regulator auto trans gear dash indicator lights and parkneutral switch on trans and speed sensor on trans diff housing. AC systems including pressure switch magnetic clutch and
1MZ-FE or 3VZ-FE Use a section of hose to narrow down the location of the tic. If an injector is suspected compare sound between them. disconnecting the plug wire will turn the injector off. The lockup clutch is inside the torque converter.
Well dont take any of this as good yet. I got it all back together and the trans in the car and it moves but must give quite a bit of throttle. Im sure just the 20 feet I got it to move did quite a bit of damage to the new clutches. I did not set the shift cable that runs off the throttle per the procedure so thats going to be the next thing to try first. Tried pushing back into garage but it feels
I think MPG would be negligible as they both do well in that department. Also you say that your trip is 50 miles. That sounds like some daily interstate driving and I would assume the MT yaris will get up to speed quicker than an AT on the on-ramps. (cant say for sure. Havent drove an AT but thats how it usually is) I read somewhere on this site that the yaris uses the same clutch as a different toyota
later I drove a Ford Taurus for a few years and hated the steering wheel lock when it would activate (that one IIRC would only lock when turning the wheel when off. Suddenly you couldnt turn it any more.) Just a couple days ago I had to move my car slightly in the parking garage. I just push the clutch roll it forward (can steer) and then put it in gearset the brake. Finally if your car pulls a toyota
car until it reaches 200 degrees then shuts off then turns back on when temp is low again but how low Am i never really getting full power because there is no cooling going on and i get heat soak Anyone who has had this problem your input is greatly appreciated. I did a test when I bought my 2002 c32. I disconnected the magnetic clutch wiring to the SC and drove the car. Suddenly my C32 was a toyota
here that is advantageous with the Z07 packages brakes. Its not as simple as stopping power that the carbon ceramic rotors give you. Its the weight savings at the 4 corners (reduced un-sprung mass). Its not merely weight savings its where the weight reduction occurs. Simple physics. Your braking ability is limited to the level of adhesion of the tires and the road surface. Even the brakes on a toyota