The self locking screws are the ones that come with the new pads. You remove them to swing the caliper up to replaced just the pads. The ones you are trying to remove are the caliper mounting bolts. Youll need to use a ratchet and socket to get better leverage than an open end wrench. If you have the downloaded manual that is on this site go to 10009.pdf to see the instructions if you need them.
This is how understand the MB philosophy on replacing used nutbolts. 1. On items like the cylinder head the bolts are stretched during the tightening process and MB advise discarding them and replacing with new. 2. On some other areas (suspension & brake calipers are typical examples) MB use self-locking nuts which they also expect you to discard after removal. My view is that you can use Loctite (or
1234210171 Brake caliper Bolt Front caliper to Steering Knuckle The below is from an online Dealer that sells offical Mercedes parts. Part Number 1234210171 Part Name SCREW MSRP 3.40 Core 0.00 Online Price 2.55 Since you are going to end up at the Dealer Ship I would replace both bolts. The bolts have a self locking goop on them. Over time it gets hard and removing the bolts messes with it. You can
and greasing them. I dont see how any of this is relevant to his question. The color of the brake fluid would not cause the brakes to lock up. Greasing the caliper pins ( not the bolts ) would help if the brakes were dragging and getting hot. Now some advice for the OP - your problem has to be due to the recent changes. Like 04f150owner said - look for loose or missing bolts. It sounds like its self-applying
Paper rmanual does not have any procedure for caliper recondition at least my copy doesnt. It just quotes 115Nm tightening of caliper to knuckle and asks for new locking plate or self locking nustsbolts Have you asked ATE (Alfred Teves)
Attached is the procedure for rear calipers for a 1981 380sl...my cd does not show a 1980 model. It does mention self-locking bolts which I take as some sort of thread locker. Also a locking plate. No mention of capture nuts. Assume you have tried using pliers or vice grips to pull the bolt out
When a fastener is torqued to a specification it gets stretched this in it self is usually good enough to keep it in place. Under certain circumstances [HotColdVibration] this is not good enough to keep it locked down and so we then need to use a positive locking method i.e. Lock tight Lock washer locking pin locking tab or safety wire. We have to keep in mind that metal changes shape when it is heated
yep.... 55Nm for the rears for a SLK230SLK320 (the r170.466 model on the list is the slk32 AMG so that one is 115Nm) the fronts SLK230SLK320 if you need to do them are 115Nm please note the shop manual states to always replace these bolts when doing the brakes as they are self locking... most places dont but PLEASE apply some thread locker on them (loctite blue - medium strength) which is removable.
brake pipe connectors. 2. Release the flexible brake pipe retaining springs. 3. Release the flexible pipes from the support housings. 1. Cut the bands (1) securing the electrical wiring. 2. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor. . Disconnect the bands for the pipes from the support. 4. Undo the bolts fixing the brake caliper. The bolts fixing the brake caliper are self-locking
to the workbench with the axle. After cutting the outer boot the outer joint moved so freely I was afraid it would twist too far and the balls would fall on the floor I wasnt sure whether that was likely but Id heard that they should go back in the same relative positions - so I was scared of doing anything that might allow the balls basket to come apart I didnt plan to disassemble the joint itself.
Yes it does say to replace the bolts but Ive never replaced caliper bolts on any car Ive owned unless supplied with a caliper kit. I cant recall what these specific self locking bolt look like but self locking bolts can have the threads altered slightly blue locking compound on the threads or a kind of knurled surface on an expanded face of the bolt (like a washer) that meets the metal surface being screwed into. The purpose is to prevent the bolt from coming loose with vibration.
Remove the front wheel. - Steer inwards so the caliper is pointing outwards & is easier to work on. 1. Disconnect the brake pipe bands from the support. 2. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor. 3. Undo the bolts fixing the brake caliper. (14mm Hex) The bolts fixing the brake caliper are self-locking and should always be replaced each time they are undone or loosened .
Originally Posted by FreeSpirit Remove the front wheel. - Steer inwards so the caliper is pointing outwards & is easier to work on. 1. Disconnect the brake pipe bands from the support. 2. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor. 3. Undo the bolts fixing the brake caliper. (14mm Hex) The bolts fixing the brake caliper are self-locking and should always be replaced each time
style homokinetic boots (I think yours should be homokinetic). I am considering preemptively changing the boots. Good luck W115nut Sokoloff167233 wrote Noticed a puddle of oil on the garage floor the other day under the left rear of my 240D. Turns out that one of the boots on the axle shaft on that side is leaking. They are original so I cant complain too much I guess. I plan to do the repair myself
Quote Originally Posted by Michael Pillay What is the torque setting for the caliper bolts I did a search and read in one of the threads that the caliper bolts are not to be reused. Is this correct If so I can pick up new bolts at the dealership. Naturally I would rather know before I have the car up in the air with the wheels removed. According to my WIS the rear caliper bolts for your E55 AMG (W210.074) are torqued to 55Nm. They are described as self-locking which is MB-speak for not to be re-used.
Quote Originally Posted by keyhole According to my WIS the rear caliper bolts for your E55 AMG (W210.074) are torqued to 55Nm. They are described as self-locking which is MB-speak for not to be re-used. Thanks I appreciate you looking it up. I just spoke to the local MB dealership. Looks like they do not have any of the bolts in stock (part A003 990 2200). By the time they get here looks like the brake job will have to wait till next weekend.
Originally Posted by jug id like to think that you will fail your mot for the HIDs and maybe get a good hard slap for them too but in reality you have a good chance of passing even though they are illegal on your car. most testers dont really give a toss. do the usual pre-MOT checks Lighting Equipment All lights are tested for OPERATION CONDITION & SECURITY. SIDELIGHTS and HEADLIGHTS - Are of the correct type. - Are correctly aimed (headlights). - Operate dip & full beam (headlights). STOP LIGHTS INDICATORS & HAZARD LIGHTS - Are of the correct type. - Do not interact with each others operation. - Indcator tell tale or audible warning works. REAR FOG LIGHTS - Must be fitted to the centre or offside of the vehicle. - Tell tale must work. - Must not interact with other lights. - Must not be obscured. - Must be red. NUMBER PLATE LIGHTS - All original lights must be present and working. REAR REFLECTORS - Two reflectors must be fitted fairly symmetrically - be secure and not obscured. Notes stop lightsindicators and hazard lights must be fitted to vehicles used on or after 1st April 1986 but if fitted must be tested. Rear foglights must be fitted to all vehicles used on or after 1st April 1980. Steering & Suspension CHECKS UNDER THE BONNET - Upper Suspension Joints and any other suspension components which can be inspected from under the bonnet. - Security of steering rack or box and mountings. - Excessive play in steering rack or box. - Play in steering joints. - Any other parts of the steering system that can be seen from under the bonnet. CHECKS UNDER THE VEHICLE - Front & Rear Suspension. - No split pins nuts etc missing. - No bent or broken components. - Condition of road springs. - Condition of supension joints for excessive play etc. - Shock absorbers for leakage & security. - Shock absorbers for damping action. - Excessive play in racksteering joints under load test - Excessive liftplay in steering box. - Power steering for leaks etc. - Security of RackBox and mounting areas for corrosion or cracking. - Wheels an tyres for fouling vehicle bodyhoses etc on lock to lock. - Condition of front and rear wheel bearings regarding play and noise. - Steering rack gaiters for splits leakage security etc. - Front outer C V boots for splits leakage security etc. - MetalRubber bushes for excess play or wear. - locking or retaining devices. - Front drive shafts and C V joints (if applicable). STEERING INSIDE THE CAR - Steering wheel in good condition. - Steering wheel securely attatched to column. - Upper column bearingsbush for excess play. - Steering column for excess end float. - Clamping bolts checked for security. - locking nuts and split pins. - Free play in steering. - Flexible couplingsuniversal joints for excess play. Brakes INSIDE THE CAR - Antilock brake warning light (if fitted) is checked for operation and correct operating sequence - Reserve travel on footbrake so that it does not reach the floor. - Excess wear of brake pedal rubber. - Correct operation of brake servo. - Parking brake for reserve travel so that it does not reach its end stop. - Parking brake mountings for corrosion and security. UNDER THE BONNET - Master cylinderservo checked for leaks under load - Servo unit for correct operation. - Visible metal brake pipes for damage corrosion leakage or breakages. UNDER THE VEHICLE - With load applied to footbrake. - All visible metal brake pipes for condition and corrosion. - Brake discs and drums checked for external condition and contamination. - Security and condition of backplates and caliper mounting devices. - Condition of brake pads (if visible). - Condition and operation of handbrake linkages and cables. - Leaks from brake compensator (if fitted). BRAKE PERFORMANCE CHECK - The efficiency and balance of the front and rear brakes using a rolling road. Tyres & Wheels TYRE CONDITION The reason for failure with respect to tyre wear is The grooves of the tread pattern are not at least 1.6mm throughout a continuous band comprising The central three-quarters of the breadth of tread around the entire outer circumference of the tyre. Tyres on any axle must be matched with regard to type size and structure. Also general condition of tyres condition of valves serious cuts bulges or other damage. WHEEL CONDITION - Damage distortion cracks distorted bead rim securely attatched to vehicle missing wheel nuts or studs. - The security of any externally fitted spare wheel or spare wheel carrier . Seatbelts GENERAL Most vehicles after 1965 must have seatbelts Irrespective of this requirement all seat belts fitted to a vehicle are inspected for - Security of seatbelt mountings and locking stalks. - Security and operation of lockingrelease mechanism. - Condition of webbing. - Operation of retraction mechanism. Note The inertia locking mechanism is not checked on some vehicles where the belt is attatched to the seat the security of the seat to the vehicle would also be part of the seat belt check. With regard to the retraction mechanism it is allowed to manually feed the belt back in. General WINDSCREEN - Chips or cracks in the windscreen directly in front of the driver in the area swept by the wiper blades are acceptable if they are less than 10mm in diameter. - In thae rest of the swept area up to 40mm damage is acceptable. - Official stickers (parking permits tax disc etc) in the swept area in front of the driver will fail if they are more than 10mm in diameter (40mm elsewhere). WASHERS AND WIPERS - Operation. - Extent of area swept by wipers. - Condition of wiper blades. HORN - Operation. - Control is easily reached by driver. - Loud enough. - Cannot be multi tone sequential type. EXHAUST SYSTEM - Part of the system missing will result in failure. - Excessive deterioration. - Support mountings are missing or broken. - Excessive noise. EXHAUST EMISSIONS - This check is carried out using special equipment - The exact details will depend on the age and model of the vehicle. - Excessive smoke (visual check). - Diesel smoke is tested using a smoke meter. BODY CONDITION AND SECURITY The body must not be so insecure or displaced that it could cause the loss of control of the vehicle when driven or cause a danger to other road users. CORROSION Corrosion is a complicated and wide ranging topic. It can be used as a reason for failure in many of the previous sections. A brief explanation follows A vehicle will fail for excessive corrosion in a prescribed area ie within 30cms of various components such as brakes steering suspension seat belt mounts etc. Also excessive corrosion not in a prescribed area which is likely to adversely affect the vehicles steering or brakes. Excessive corrosion can mean a hole or significantly weakened structure. SEATS - The front seats must be secure. - All seat backs must be securable in the upright position. MIRRORS Not all mirrors on all vehicles are subject to the test. This depends on the age of the vehicle but those which are must be - Secure. - Visible from the drivers seat. - Not distorted or damaged so as to seriously impair the drivers view of the rear. FUEL SYSTEM - Any fuel leak or defect which will allow fuel to leak out will fail the test. - Fuel filler cap must fasten securely and seal must be in place and in good condition. REGISTRATION PLATES & VIN NUMBERS For any registered vehicle number plates must be - Present. - Secure. - Not faded dirty or obscured. - Be composed of correctly formed letters correctly spaced. VIN plates are required on all vehicles firstly used on or after 1st August 1980 and must be - Permanently displayed. - Consistent. - Legible. OK so most MOT testers dont give a toss Jug Where in your list of checks does it say anything about HID fitment and the regulations about it Nowehere So an MOT tester CANT fail it. The MOT test is a list of regulated inspections using approved methods not a testers personal opinion. HID lamps if they meet the correct intensity and are set correctly alignment wise and beam pattern is correct then have to pass . An incorrectly fitted or poor HID kit will fail on beam pattern original fitment units have to have self levelling systems not the manual ones fitted in non HID but this is not part of the test.
and shafts &822630-350 - Design and function of electronic accelerator &822630-355 - Instructions for test and repair work &822630-360 - ABSASR and electronic accelerator input test &822630-365 - Testing electronic accelerator &822630-370 - Testing cruise control (vehicle with ASR) 32 &8211 Suspension Maintenance Jobs &82263211 - Level control ADS ASD 4MATIC fluid level &82263251 - Inspecting self-leveling
Perhaps the R500 has different brakes I can tell you for sure my standard 9mm allen wrench did not work which is how the whole ball end fiasco started since the long end of the wrench was ball end and worked. But like you said I could not torque to specs with the wrench. Just wanted to throw that out there so no one else finds that out after they start the job. And yes I found that almost every standard set skipped 9mm. Its almost like Mercedes said hmm.... wonder what eez zee least common size.. ah ha 9mm Lets use it And the dealer is correct about the floating caliper bolts. They are to be reused. The main caliper will need to be removed for rotor replacement. Those are the self locking bolts that should NOT be reused.
mad - I have some important data from the WIS that might help. Item 64 Security (locking) bolt 1 off per wheel. Part No. BA-42.10-P-1001-06A rear. BA-42.10-P-1001-06B front. Torque to 10Nm. Item 31c Brake caliper bolts 2 off per wheel Part No. BA-42.10-P-1006-03A. Torque to 25Nm All these are considered self-locking bolts and should be replaced. Brake pad thickness. New 19.80mm (with pad backing plate)
If they replaced the rotors the bolt had to be loosened at a minimum but probably had to come out. It is not an easy job to remove the rotors without at lease loosening the caliper carrier. Even loosening the carrier the bolt should have blue thread locking compound put on the bolts and proper torque to prevent them from self removal.
Originally Posted by GSO_Passater If they replaced the rotors the bolt had to be loosened at a minimum but probably had to come out. It is not an easy job to remove the rotors without at lease loosening the caliper carrier. Even loosening the carrier the bolt should have blue thread locking compound put on the bolts and proper torque to prevent them from self removal. Depends on which bolts fell out.
Posted by nrphlly can anyone give me an idea of what to expect on changing rear wheel bearings. Ill let you make up your own mind after you read the WIS procedure below.. Note the tools recommended Quote Also whats the best way to seperate the caliper from the rotor. I should probably do new padsrotors bearings in one swipe. As Greg said above. A few torques for your W208 if you decide to diy... self
Quote Originally Posted by keyhole Ill let you make up your own mind after you read the WIS procedure below.. Note the tools recommended As Greg said above. A few torques for your W208 if you decide to diy... self locking bolts. caliper to wheel carrier 55 Nm brake line to brake hose 14 Nm brake hose to caliper 18 Nm I can use that diagram to see how the wheel lugs sit in the hub. But I dont see
Hi I bought a DVD from Ebay all the techno stuff and how to do it great product. Started to change front bearings today got as far as trying to undo caliper bolts talk about tight need 14mm hex driver just to get the bolts undone then need new bolts ones as they are self locking 125 newtons Told by Fiat dealer let them know if I removed old bearings before buying new ones as sometimes they cannot
Here you go 2004 E320 Front 27 Nm (EXCEPT-211.083283 Front 40 Nm) Rear 28 Nm (EXCEPT-211.076276 Nm) The manual does note that the self-locking micro-encapsulated caliper bolts should be replaced... Mike -
Quote Originally Posted by Werkstattmeister Here you go 2004 E320 Front 27 Nm (EXCEPT-211.083283 Front 40 Nm) Rear 28 Nm (EXCEPT-211.076276 Nm) The manual does note that the self-locking micro-encapsulated caliper bolts should be replaced... Mike -
Ok. Page 5-105. They are self retaining fasteners that DO NOT require thread locking compounds. The brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are tightened to 115 N-m (85 lb ft). Now I have a question for you WHOS UR BUDDY
Quote Originally Posted by Lampoon Ok. Page 5-105. They are self retaining fasteners that DO NOT require thread locking compounds. The brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are tightened to 115 N-m (85 lb ft). Now I have a question for you WHOS UR BUDDY Thanks for the info and YOU ARE Im sure I will have some more questions before it is all over. Wayne