Dont want to spend 2k on a clutch but a 30k investment in a different car is reasonable Youll need headers clutch A&A kit fuel system upgrade and a blower cam. Youll trap between 135 and 140 all day with that setup. One call to A&A and a few days for the parts to arrive and youre set. Modding a ZR1 is just a waste of money because you can get to that level much MUCH cheaper.
You LET them do the job for 757 I had mine replaced for 192 or 202...I cant remember. Wait...mine was the fuel Pressure Regulator so nevermind... Some people are like Slinkies...Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs. Past Cars 1990 Ford Bronco II - 94 - 98 1992 mitsubishi 3000GT SL - 98 - 98 1998 Chevy S-10 - 98 - 04 2004 Nissan Xterra - 04 - 07 2008 Nissan Versa SL - 07 - Present
to them to get fixed...otherwise you car will smell like gas for a week. I made that mistake...wasnt thinking the day before and filled up. They get to it by taking out your back seat cushions and access it through the floor. Some people are like Slinkies...Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs. Past Cars 1990 Ford Bronco II - 94 - 98 1992 mitsubishi
Possible fuel pump issue making the engine strain for fuel I dunno..just a thought. Some people are like Slinkies...Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs. Past Cars 1990 Ford Bronco II - 94 - 98 1992 mitsubishi 3000GT SL - 98 - 98 1998 Chevy S-10 - 98 - 04 2004 Nissan Xterra - 04 - 07 2008 Nissan Versa SL - 07 - Present
Quote Originally Posted by IBenDCars OK so I am not supposed to know the OP code and it probably isnt helpful because the service dept. probly isnt capable of back tracking it anyway The service guy also said there should be a fault code if anything is wrong Would this show up as a fault code Or does the computer even know the gas guage is off Wondering what next the dealer wanted me to bring it in but what if it isnt acting up after I drive 250 miles to his shop A fault code for a gas sender What has that dealer been smoking. Yes for a fuel pump under performing you will get a code. It triggers the fuel RAIL PRESSURE sensor. And yes for anything relating to makeing the vech run or run funny or not at all yes they will throw codes from the related sensors. A fuel sender for the GAUGE has nothing to do with any of this nor has a sensor babysitting it. What does it need one for And mine was not throwing codes and mine was fixed for free. Mine was doing just what your wifes is doing. Your dealer is a BS artist at best. He has his nose bent that you know more then he does and he can not charge you for it without the BS factor he is selling you now. The part number I gave you is the part you need. If you can change a fuel filter in it you can do this job. Tell the dealer if you drive there and buy part and put it in yourself you will charge him for the gas and mileage and labor and part if he does not give it to you free to do it as well. Or he can just do the job for free and bill KIA like they should with no BS. Or the next call will be to a lawyer and see what KIA has to say. KIA knows their is a history on the senders. Your dealer is just being a AW. And he needs to know you know it and will not play that game. I can help if you like to send me a privet note. A fax is very easy to do back to you. But it is up to you really. 90 is the price I told you it was billed to KIA. Now see what they tell you it is to have them do it and pay them. As I posted in the first place it is a .40 time job. LESS then a HALF AN HOUR. It is totally and was for me a while you wait deal. They take out the pump assy and take off the part I gave you the number of repalce it and put it all back. Just like if they were doing a fuel FILTER on it. My biggest objection would be driving 250 miles each way as you stated to get anything done Let alone buy OEM requiredonly avalible parts. With a dealer that far away why did you buy a KIA That is over a tank of gas to just buy a part or get anything done At this rate it is very wise to do your own work or get a indy shop to do anything close to home. Right now it is cheaper in a goofy way to buy the part mail order and do it yourself. And then never buy OEM again unless it is required due to not aval aftermarket. Even if the price at AUTO ZONE is more slightly then OEM. I hope not very many are in the same boat as you these days. I love the fact that here in SC where I live I can get to six KIA dealers no more then 100 miles away. TWO are 20 (mine) mins away and 32 (where I bought the Spectra) mins away. I can thou go to if I wish to ColumbiaSumter Beufort all in SC and Savanna GAMyrtle Beach NC like I said all within 100 miles. I beleive youyou when you say it. But I can not wrap my head around the idea of any dealer being 250 miles in all four direction. Outside the one and only SAAB dealer that just closed here (not sure where the closest is now) no other maker has less then two in the area. More then 100 miles away. Many have two of them like KIA very close. Heck we got the following right here not 100 miles awaythou there are them within 100. so I feel blessed really. As I am not in a major city area like NYCATLLA ect SMART CAR MASERATI MAYBACH RANGE ROVER PORSCHE MB BMW AUDI ACURA (2)TOYOTA (2)HONDA (2)SUZUKI opps both closed now sorry i forgot VOLVO MINI (2) KIA and mine is building a brand new twice the size new building on a new lot and moveing. (2)HYUNDAI (2)ChryJEEP (2)LINCOLN (3)DODGE Lexus Jaguar (4) Ford (4) Chevy (2)GMCBUICKPONTIAC HUMMER (2) VW (2) MAzda SUBARU mitsubishi
ours did the same thing (threw CPS code) when the fuel pump died. Luckily I only dropped 60 bucks on a CPS thanks to folks on this forum (same as a mitsubishi 6 cyl and readily available). Take jetfuels advice.
but cant find a schematic. the BMW pump has 200bar pressure and its failure does not end up in destroying the engine like the VW audimazda products that run at only 130 bar. Higher pressures are of course going to be more difficult for the seals. Its also interesting that everyones gasoline direct injection is NOT the same(check out wiki on direct injection there are different systems by mitsubishi
November 2001 Pages 1 2 Visit Our Buyers Guide »Select a Make Select a Model Or research by Editors Choice Most Researched Select A MakeClose Acura Alfa Romeo Aston Martin Audi Bentley BMW Bugatti Buick Cadillac Chevrolet Chrysler Dodge Ferrari Ford GMC Honda Hummer Hyundai Infiniti Isuzu Jaguar Jeep Kia Lamborghini Land Rover Lexus Lincoln Lotus Maserati Maybach Mazda Mercedes-Benz Mercury Mini mitsubishi
A few more things The early V6 (3.5) is a strong stoutly built engine but carries over a few issues from its (20 year old) mitsubishi origins. It is a timing belt engine so 100000 Km belt changes are needed it is also an interference engine so will be a dead engine if you neglect this. The crank pulley bolt has a propensity to either back out or break off if under or over tensioned. It must be renewed
being spent here to solve the problem. Guess what five minutes with the right guy truck needed a new fuel filter and some hack in the past had used a piece of baling wire instead of a hose clamp to reattach a fuel line. Cost literally 40 dollars and 15 minutes of work and the truck was up and running. The difference between a diagnostician and a parts swapper. another classic example- 1995 mitsubishi
Yes the Kia Hyundai Sigma 3.5 is a built under licence version of the mitsubishi 6G74 engine. It is virtually identical to the 3.5 DOHC engine fitted to the mitsubishi Pajero Montero Exceed models and some mitsubishi sedans. (in FWD version) Although a generally strong smooth powerful solidly built and reliable engine capable of achieving high mileages the mitsubishi versions suffered from Crank
This video should answer your question... Turbo mitsubishi EVO vs. Supercharged Viper httphome.dejazzd.commutzzyMedia...04%20Viper.wmv Its a 638 wheel horsepower 2.3 liter mitsubishi evo lancer going against a 668 wheel horsepower 8.0 liter superchargered viper. The viper does get a nice jump on the EVO (he might have jumped the gun) but remember it has almost 4 times the displacement. 700 Horsepower
leak MAF sensor Ignition lead x 3 fuel sensor fault Telescopic arm on single rear seat and now...my coolant is slowly disappearing Please advise..is there any history of these leaking how reliable are the pumps and can i not just top up with water Is it me or does there seem to be a lot of re-calls for this high German brand vehicle to be honest it hasnt met the quality of my previous vehicle....mitsubishi
of any contamination. Will remember the shocking truth about how much power is created be a coil when checking for spark lol and thank you for the information on the coil recall. But Im still going to look at the anti-theft system. I know if the car is tiltedtowed it can activate the anti-theft system and I know this could cause a no fire condition until the system is reset. Im by trade a 2007 mitsubishi
working. Next year Ill probably get around to the cosmetic issues. The drivers seat has somewhat collapsed on the bottom part. If I dont find a good used one Ill spring to get new upholstery. Im also going to powdercoat the bundt hubs and replace the floor mats (the back ones were missing when I bought the car) put some chrome wheel wells and some other various things. My last non-W123 car was a mitsubishi
Searched through some of my emails found this from a rep. in Latvia who has converted his A4-quattro to a rally car...interesting info Here in Baltic States in Latvia I can do all the mechanical things very cheaply as labour costs are very low. I have installed a Torsen differential in the rear axel - now having much needed torgue to the back wheels - I took the Torsen diff from an Audi V8 and put it in my stock A4 rear axel - that is the only stock Audi model to use a Torsen diff in the rear axel - so my costs where 300 I installed a front mounted intercooler from a Scania truck 200 so it is cheap to make things here but not to buy I have also overhowled my gearbox with close ration gears - turns out that you can swap gears as you whish from any Audi having logitudialy mounted engine and gearbox since year 1986 having alloy gearbox housing even from FWD cars. So now my gears are perfect - as A4 had always had problems with too much difference in ratios between gears. I also threugh out the hevy stupid dempfered flywheel and clutch the A4 has and replaced it with an Audi 2.0 liter DOHC engine flywheel and clutch which match perfectly in the stock place being just 3mm thiner in total - thus I have a much lighter and stronger flywheel and revyer engine - costs 400. I have also installed a hydrolic handbrake and a sports fuel tank from an EVO VI mitsubishi with external uprated fuel pump and fuel lines running through the car. So there you go.
moment i drive a 2007 acura tl type-s its a decent car but it has an horrible manual transmission it feels like it belongs on a tractor and not a car and the handling is not that great. I live in Canada atm so for me a 335xi coupe is perfect plus i love the look of this car but to be honest with you if i was leaving back in Italy again for the type of driving i do down there i would of bought a mitsubishi
i have been through about 20 some odd cars in my 15 years of driving. Had two fords 1988 ford tempo(first car) and a 1993 Taurus SHO( loved that one). My cars leading up to the optima were 2010 mitsubishi Lancer Evolution GSR 2011 Dodge Ram crew cab Sport 2008 Dodge charger SRT-8 Then my son came along and i had to give up the high cost of ownership of the highend sports cars and trucks enter the optima.
km. Petrol in NZ has the road user charges included in the pump price. At 10.4 l100km say &0361.05 &03610.92 road users of 3.2 ckm total cost per 100 km of &03614.12. Similar petrol vehicle say 14 l100 km NZ&0361.50litre equals &03621.00 per 100 kms. There is a huge selection of common rail diesel SUV type vehicles available in NZ e.g. Jeep Hyundai Terracan Toyota Prada or VX Landcruiser mitsubishi
Quote Originally Posted by b1_n Daewoo Lanos 5dr hatch 1999 1.5 SOHC (A15SMS). Bought it new in 2000 shop serviced for the first 3 years (part of the deal) now I do the services. The only problem we have had is the heater unit - the plastic tabs on the selecter unit have broken so its stuck on face....not a big deal. Other than the normal plugsfiltersoilpads its had a set of HT leads and brake rotors replaced. If yr looking for a cheap to run 2nd car I would recommend the woo. They only put out as much power as an alternator in a V8 but are a great car to drive and they rail corners like a go-kart. Just make sure its had its timing belt and water pump replaced and give it a good oil flush....all standard stuff. That is the same as My DWs brother bought recently great on fuel. Think it might be moving up the options list I had read that the engine is the same as the mitsubishi mirage is that right
only does it when I dont drive it for a while. I believe its the fuel pump. Have you looked into the Honda Fit Sport The magic seat configuration is a nice setup cant pass by that. It wouldnt be too bad of a replacement. Either that or you can go for a Mazda 3 i Touring. It looks great and I heard those are the best equipped in its class. The hatchbacks are nice Lastly you can test drive a 2008 mitsubishi
I got my first VW in 1983. I needed a car bad and a friend wanted my 78Yamaha XS750E Motorcycle. He had a 71 Type-3 Squareback. We traded even up. I drove the Type-3 for two more years (during College) and then traded it off for a new mitsubishi Pick-Up truck. Fast forward to spring 2002...Im married have a young daughter and was tiring of fixing our unreliable of late 96 GMC Jimmy (11200 Miles). Id
I just looked this up quick DuralastCrankshaft Position Sensor For your 2009 mitsubishi Truck Outlander 4WD 3.0L MFI SOHC 6cyl Price 123.99 Part Number SU13074 So just for future reference will this AZ be the same And will it apply to a 2010 as well as 2008 I want to add this to my what if notes. Thanks