One on each wheel and change the disc at the same time. Euro car parts all cheap enough
I take it your website is still a work in progress Zenman. I wish I could afford to pay for someone to do my bathroom for me. I have spent the last 3 days replacing our old bathroom and the end is nowhere in sight yet. So far I have only got as far as the pipework and floor. Sorry to hijack your thread vclass
Thanks Zenman Assume you have something other than the Viano Ambiente for carrying the bathroom bits Pics look great btw... Ive seen it said that MB recommend always changing discs with pads but on the other hand there is a minimum thickness specified for the discs which would seem to imply to me that they dont always have to be changed. In the past (other vehicles including our old V230) I only changed
Hi sensors are at each corner of the van
as painterman says.... there is normally one sensor per pair of pads and not one on the handbrake linings..... of course there can be differences but not normally. you will have heard of the dreaded LIMP mode.... its commonest cause is a damaged brake pad sensor cable... especially on the 2 front brakes malcolm
Quote Originally Posted by chriskedwards I have a brand new 111 vito and want to fit parking sensors on it. On the instructions it says to just conect to earth and the live feed to the reversing lights. However when i had a towbar fitted they tiold me that the vito electrics were new and it wasnt as simple to wire a tow bar any more. Does anyone know anything about this or can anyone advise Cheers Hi I have an old shape vito that has been converted to drive with hand controls as I am in a wheelchair I was talking about the new vito with the people who converted mine and they said they had had to go on some kind of a conference on the techniques needed to be able to convert the new shape vito due to the new style of electrics. Essentially everything electrical is wired into one cable a bit like the principal of a fibre optic cable is I believe. There is a special term for this but I cant recall what it is. You might be best to contact a local auto electrician and let them have the nightmare. benz Bling
its called CAN (Control Area Network) imagine all your computers at work communicating over the network...well your vito is now pretty much the same...instead of having a wire from each sensor to the ECU u have one wire (well pair anyway) that runs pastthru all or most sensors and then to the ECU. Thats basically it...the reality is that there are various modules that groups of sensors are connected
Quote Originally Posted by dy1502 Hi Kev I have a 2000 vito 108 CDI with EXACTLY the same problem. Ive been stuck in limp mode for ages now and its driving me crazy....if anyone hears of a solution please help Took it to a mercedes service centre and their laptop couldnt communicate with my ECU - all they told me was i had a rare model..... very helpful. Ive heard lots of different reasons for the
this should reset the ECU if it resets and the ECU light comes back then you definitely have a fault with one of the sensors or ECU. Depending on the area that you&8217re in see if you can find a Auto Electrician with a up to date scan tool and see if they can get in to the ECU diagnostics system if they cant then the ecu diagnostics could be damaged for some reason. maybe its only the mercedes
Hope that title will get picked up on search Well well see... the cheap codereader said EGR. So Ive checked vacuum pipe after vacuum pipe (all good) lain under the car checking actuator (gets noisy from engine rhs about 3000rpm) and have just removed and cleaned the plastic intake manifold which has the egr sensors. Havent weighed it but I guess just about a kg of carbon from it and egr valve. 103 000 miles...Im off my map is that usual So the sensors might be good the pipes all good but if the manifold is full of carbon Hope thats it. Of course it has the glowplug light on still...but it arrived in limp mode and is now out of it. I guess a bit of wire or a drill bit through the manifold vacuum connector might save stripping the manifold off for a while...and as a diagnostic check. There is some oil around front of turbo...not enough to drip yet and vehicle isnt smoking or turbo noisy. Exhaust is going to need replacing (interesting old threads on that....I think well play when the time comes but its not bad. I pulled the cover off (PCV valve elbow connector UGH) and no sign of black death I read so much on Tomorrow my Waxoyl pressure kit arrives...we looked at quite a few vitos and this (spanish) one is so rustfree underneath we decided to throw some money at prevention...ho hum... Thanks for all the help benzworld John
Quote Originally Posted by webwizard I have terrible problem with vito 108CDI production 1999Y Engine works OKwhen I accelerate slowly it goes normalybut when I stronlgy push gasI want to accelerate quick engine shut offit all happens about 3000rmp and higher I have tried all kinds of diagnosis StarDiagnosemercedes hht and carsoft but there are no errors Also I have noticed something elsewhen vehicle
OK Ill answer this myself in case anyones wondering. The hot film air mass measurement sensors are integrated into the intake air ducts. This infos from an ML but works the same way for my vito 112CDI (I asked my mechanic about this). So I dont know what the MAFs available on ebay for the vito CDIs are as theres nowhere to put them...
Quote Originally Posted by pasha OK Ill answer this myself in case anyones wondering. The hot film air mass measurement sensors are integrated into the intake air ducts. This infos from an ML but works the same way for my vito 112CDI (I asked my mechanic about this). So I dont know what the MAFs available on ebay for the vito CDIs are as theres nowhere to put them... my 03 plate 108 cdi has an air flow meter just before the air filter box
Quote Originally Posted by jonny422 thanks for the info fellas. Ive just installed an auto meter pro comp boost gauge. they run 15 psi standard. Ive also heard off two other people thats wat they run. my gauge also reads 15-16 psi. your gauge must be out cause 1 bar is 14.7 psi. I would get a remap but im in australia and i dont think anyone does them here. I havent had a look yet but i was thinking
Quote Originally Posted by Custom Chris You would have to adjust the rod to near its maximum IMO to trigger any safe mode as I have never had that on the vans I have adjusted the actuator rod on (maybe I just havent taken it far enough). The solenoid is a overboost protection sensor which is why there is not much point in adjusting it unless you have a remap booked. Maybe the mapper could delete the
Take a look on the vw forums at example a 1.9 tdi these diesel engines can produce amazing amounts of horsepower its all produced low down normally gearbox and clutch are the limitation not the engine custom boost sensors are remapped to ecu and hybrid or larger turbos fitted larger flowing injectors its all possible . A remap is a starting point but full on custom built goes back to mechanical mods on any modern diesel . plus heavy duty clutch . a good rolling road tune at this point will give a custom map to suit needs . example of simple way to fool boost sensor on e300 td httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsw210...300-turbo.html
I second that. The vito is actually a very hardy old girl and the engines are great it is 90% of the time sensors that let it down. They get water in them and rot. I dont know how many times Ive banged on about it now. Its worth trying to find a good condition c-class etc... in a scrappy and stripping all the connectors off them. The scrap pie only wants pence for them and they cant re-sell them Its a great van the 110..... tonnes of torque on hills. I miss it. But love my new 111.
Slight development.. Or undevelopment i should say On the motorway on Saturday i was driving along happily admiring my air rushing sound thinking man i sound bad ass.. When all of a sudden i lost power i could only get 3000 revs in any gear and on the flat on the motprway i could get 70 max out of my beloved vito.. The dreaded limp home mode. Thinking about it more i believe the problem has to be a
Me too I have a 2003 vito 108D Traveliner & the locks have started playing up. I have Cleaned all the sensors so the contacts are good but I lock the Van (either on Key turn or pressing button on fob) & then it trys to lock & then immediately unlocks. So I am having to leave it sometimes unlocked as there is no override. Help also please if anyone knows what else I can check.
Hi thevman the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) is a sensor that detects how much air is being drawn into your engine it is located on the inlet side off the engine between the air filter housing and the inlet manifold. there will be a wiring plug connected to it. The MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) is measuring vacuum pressure again on the inlet side of the engine. (im not 100% sure where it is
you sound a lot like me.... I will normally do anything myself once doing a rebore with hand reamers.... if it needs doing I can normally do it and easily confess to being a tool junkie... if theres a tool for it I will get it.. if not I will make it. since you have fitted leather seats I will assume theyre from an oldish model..... currently they are fitting leather but the small print says its artificial.
yeah they are leather all recliners the seats are from an ambiente i think. we had to make runners for the floor after i took the standard seats out. the front ones bolted straight in . i got 17 inch with 45 profile on them was thinking of lowering it but still use it for joinery work and carrying tools so i think i will leave it as standard for now. i have replaced most of the vacum sensors along
Yes as Zenman says a good alarm is the clifford 330 CANBus alarm. It is very versatile and can easily be expanded to incorporate new devices such as microwave sensors glass break sensors and window closure modules. I am having this fitted to my van in the near future as i really cannot be bothered with having two seperate keyfobs for my van . Nick
as said... the flashing is because the doorlock switchessensors are not registering that they are fully latched... even though it may appear locked the sensorsswitches must be full latched (as opposed to the actual locks) in order for the indicator to show its ok. check the door switches (the pin switches that operate the door lights) as muck on the contacts causes problems on any car... then its a
Hi ya brake lights can cause all sorts of problems as can the sensors for the traction control. It might sound like a daft thing to say but have a look and check that the wiring to the pickups for the traction control is ok and that the sensors are still there and the brake lights must be working ok or this will cause the van to go into limp mode. Martin
I attach a generic document on the fuel filter. if the water seperator is fitted it is ON THE BOTTOM of the fuel filter case. you say youve changed the filter..... did you bleed the air out of the system its meant to be automatic... it never is and ANY air bubbles can cause the fuel not to pump and the sensors will shut the engine down. the water seperator is on the first pdf the other (bigger) pdf
Thought Id better do a quick reply. The fault seems to have been with the Crankshaft sensor. I have changed both the crankshaft and the camshaft sensors. During the 2nd test with computer connected during driving we could see that at around 85- 95 degrees the engine cut out. this was due to the computer detecting a fault and cutting the fuel supply. When the temperature reached 60 degrees the computer
Have you checked the wheel speed sensors or had it scanned with a shop grade scan tool (ideally an MB SDS)
Theres also some screws in and around the center consoleswitch panel. 1 is access from underneath via the ashtray and you have to take all the switch plate heater controls and vents out. Then there are 3 or 4 locating pegs that are right up against the windscreen side of the dashboard so you need to lift the dash at the front to get it out. I went through exactly the same thing as you. Im still pulling
scary mine have automatic gear so i dont tink it has air operated clutch extra sensors on the breaks i bought it cheap and it had low milage and almost no rust. but i m starting to wondering if it would have been better with some brown spots mine have electric side door back door and at lift at the side. its two batteries in the back and a oil pump in the back. it also had hand controls and clip on
Ah Siemens ECU would hazard a guess at MAF sensor then. Anybody any idea where a chart or similar on MAF sensors could be found Its pretty hard to get the same item from a breakers but if one with greater pressure range temp range etc could be used.......
This sensor just pulls out of the rubber intake and its elements are already exposed no case to pull off and Yeah Ive tried cleaning it I dont have any equipement to check the oxy sensor my friend is a mechanic and has scanners but when connected to my van he could not get any codes or messages from the ECU. I know he measured the exhaust fumes and the lambda reading was 10 it should be .01 or something
Quote Originally Posted by grav220 Hi Kaso My V220 has 7 leather seats and air con diesel heater heat boost auto cruise control body colour bumpers 2 electric sun roofs curtains rear power sockets etc all as standard. G Nice Due to the high Taxes in Denmark cars are generally less well equiped than cars in fx. Germany - that counts for mine as well. It has cruise control body colour bumpers curtains
Swap the dash for the advanced and it will be there along with the multifunction wheel makes a great improvement. sensors are there even to check the oil so well worth it.