dangerous misconceptions arise - methinks. too much knowledge comes from when cars were very new and misunderstood. oil is Best when it easily flows around the engine AND provides maximum distance between moving parts (called lubrication). When an engine is cold ..... oil is at its thickest ....... and it flows less easily. When an engine is hot ...... oil is at its thinnest ....... and gives least
But it wont drive without oil even when it gets low it will have bad changes. At 60k it should have had a transmission service just oil and filter in fact you need to drain the torque converter to get all the oil out. Without doing that 4L is all you will get in. Your service details are at the dealers anyway in there system so you should get that. The oil on the dip stick is so clean you can hardly see it. I would get it in the workshop and drop the sump.
Invariably you get oil in the air system after a while in a diesel engine. Hence why they sell turbo cleaner etc.... Just make sure its not pissing out of the intercooler itself. On another totally unrelated note I do have a brand spanking new intercooler for sale from when doing up my old van. Very very reasonable price.
the info comes from mercedes workshop system (WIS) and in dozens of documents..... so it was easier to put it all in one document to make it available for most enquiries without having to worry about it. basically Im lazy.
good idea - why didnt i think of that...... here you go.... IM doing this conversion on my Merc vito traveliner so I can drive round for free....not strictly on a VW but this is transfereable to ANY diesel vehicle....and since some of us on here run on diesel....I thought a how to might be useful to dispel some myths and summarise all my research over the last months. Background..... Tax - it is now
Next up was the wiring....this is my personal worst bit of anything so I wasnt looking forward to it. The kit comes with 3 assembled looms and a wiring diagram.....but theres also a list of wiring allocations so I used this. The first job was to decide where to mount the relays fuse box (this comes pre-assembled) and identify a good earth point switched live and permanent live. SO first i loosely
one of my main motivations was to really make use of the van for trips away. as for heated injectors...I can see these would assist with the injection efficinecy and cold starting BUT I would not think they would be adequate on their own - the idea of the preheating the oil is to assist passage thorugh and take the load from the pump so really by the time it gets to the injectors its a bit late in
Sorry for this late response Ive not visited in awhile. The C-class 111. is same block and heads with a different intake system design and totally different ECU. The engine bay of the 113 wont allow for the space and plumbing of the supercharger. If you really want to free up more power albeit in baby steps Id suggest starting with the basics 1) Reduce friction throughout the entire drivetrain beginning
Quote Originally Posted by leongster Sorry for this late response Ive not visited in awhile. The C-class 111. is same block and heads with a different intake system design and totally different ECU. The engine bay of the 113 wont allow for the space and plumbing of the supercharger. If you really want to free up more power albeit in baby steps Id suggest starting with the basics 1) Reduce friction throughout the entire drivetrain beginning with the wheel bearings through to the gearbox and on to the engine lubrication. (111. engines have very high friction in the valvetrain). Hint Search for boron nitride - based oil additives for the engine molybdenum-disulphide based grease for bearings. Be careful with the manual gearbox though your base fluid must be ATF4 and any additive you use should not consist of solid particulates. 2) Fit good iridium spark plugs and Index them - the latter is an old but proven tuning trick to even out the ignition spark across all four cylinders by aligning the plug gaps all in the same direction. You may need some trial and error to work out the optimum angle. 3) Consider fitting a high flow cat and exhaust system. Dont overdo it with the pipe diameter though and never get rid of the cat as itll screw up your ECU. 4) Make sure your oxygen sensor is in good shape. A lot of power and economy is lost through a faulty o2 sensor. 5) Always use good fuel. I favor Chevron but thats just me. The above are just pointers. Youd still need to hunt down the details - but isnt that half the fun Hi Leongster Thanks for all that info. I have started to modify a few things I have had a throttle body dressing fitted an Ecotek CB-26P replaced the standard air filter for a K&N and had a stainless steel Powerflow performance exhaust. It does seem to have made quite a bit of difference to low down performance which is where I thought it was lacking. I have an automatic gearbox in my vito and it now seems to kick down a little quicker which is good for overtaking and when going up hill. Someone else has suggested getting some iridium spark plugs but I didnt know if it would make much difference. Now you have suggested it too I might look into it further. As for the fuel I always use Shell no supermarket rubbish in my ride I live in England and I dont think we get Chevron over here. benz Bling
Hi all I have some pics now but having upload problems so prob be another day or so - if your seriously interested in the vito parts intereioir and cant wiat PM me and ill mail you the pics - Jonny - youre correct this kit was fitted to my 108D (not common rail) so to run it on a common rail system you will as a minimum need a different lift pump - depending how new your van is it can mean you need
over 20000 miles In summer i ran it 75% oil to 25% diesel In winter i ran 50-50 Every once in a while i would stick 20 of diesel and fuel system cleaner in to flush the system. The only thing i would keep an eye on would be the leak off pipes because they go brittlehard and start leaking.I put a full set a year on. Also i replaced the fuel filter every 6 months. I read somewhere that the old mercedes
tried it in my old vito (14million miles ) a new vito (the new sport model but dont tell the dealer that lent it to us) my old transit (400k with bosch pump) my old Landrover (413k) and in contacts with others. Many have the Road Fuel Duty Licence (you pay duty on the volume and type of oil (new used) each month) so could make Bio Diesel or use veg oil legally (I live near a couple of test tracks
sounds like could be the injectors or your burning excess water some how the glow plugs aint an issue my light is on and i run the same now as before never go to merc with a vito see they know that vitos a discracefully flawed and it would seem once the problems begin you never ever get rid of them so merc dont want to admit this and the other reason is you could have numerous expensive jobs done and
From my experience and what Ive seen from using this forum for a couple of years common vito w638 cdi faults are injectors leaking back fuel pump seals fuel system air leaks turbo vacuum system leaks gear box cable linkage stiff or not engaging certain gears rust. Ive never noticed any increased oil consumption but maybe someone else can comment .
You can get away with running them with a small amount of petrol in the diesel and some people do it on purpose anyway. Having the 2 stroke in it would have also aided matters as the problem with diesel over petrol is the lack of oil content for lubricating the pump which causes damage. You will find a lot of people will poo poo what i have said and tell you that you have wrecked your engine and diesel
Quote Originally Posted by walsi You can get away with running them with a small amount of petrol in the diesel and some people do it on purpose anyway. Having the 2 stroke in it would have also aided matters as the problem with diesel over petrol is the lack of oil content for lubricating the pump which causes damage. You will find a lot of people will poo poo what i have said and tell you that you
Service is pretty straightforward. The oil filter needs the special tool (around a fiver from ebay) because its the paper element type rather than a cartridge and the plastic housing is so soft anything else will wreck it... The air element is straight forward but a pita to get to all of the clips.. I got a fuel filter at the same time but I havent yet had the cahoonas to fit it after reading all of
Quote Originally Posted by Trickyh Service is pretty straightforward. The oil filter needs the special tool (around a fiver from ebay) because its the paper element type rather than a cartridge and the plastic housing is so soft anything else will wreck it... The air element is straight forward but a pita to get to all of the clips.. I got a fuel filter at the same time but I havent yet had the cahoonas
Quote Originally Posted by uberwasser Just to make sure things are clear as there is a lot of confusion and misinformation regarding the difference - What you are dealing with here is NOT biodiesel. You are dealing with Straight Vegetable oil (SVO) andor Waste Vegetable oil (WVO). Biodiesel does not require a conversion to be installed while SVO or WVO does at bare minimum need a whole kit of parts
Yes the Ash Content is the whole point about a 2-T oil it HAS to burn clean or it will just grind away the piston and rings within a 2-T engine by leaving ash deposits. I run several old motor-bikes and so always have 2-T oil lying about and yes I too find my vito and Focus cmax run better. Still does not excuse you from using a quality synthetic oil in the sump and regular oil change. I use it to
Quote Originally Posted by G-AMG Scott hey. If you check the WIS you will see ther are TWO types of beveled pans one with th OVAL indentions as in this posting has the GREEN Riser and requires the Expensive new 236.15 fluid. If you have ROUND indentions on the pan then you should have the WHITE standpipe which would suggest you have a car built BEFORE June 21 2010. IF this is all correct then you have
I am sorry to say that there is no normal pathway from the cooling system to the rocker cover breather unless it is leaking through the head gasket. Is it coming out looking like it does in the radiator or is it oily and milky
Quote Originally Posted by jonny rash I am sorry to say that there is no normal pathway from the cooling system to the rocker cover breather unless it is leaking through the head gasket. Is it coming out looking like it does in the radiator or is it oily and milky Hi Jonny water is same as radiator not milky there is a very small amount of oil in it. Radiator expansion tank has no pressure. Thanks.
I wish I could give a definative answer but I cant. on some vehicles the door light switch forms part of the circuit on others it doesnt.... remove and clean them FIRST as they may affect the system but more importantly they are easy to remove and clean. the actual electric lock normally has a sensor built into it and this is the one that is most likely the culprit........ remove the lock clean it
Hi thanks for the replies. Engine not using water. I have removed the cylinder head exhaust cat inter cooler egr valve inlet and exhaust manifolds all related air pipes the breather system injectors... Inspected all and no sign of anything wrong. The exhaust ports in the head and the egr valve port that runs through the head all look good good colour the inlet ports do look more oily than the exhaust
Hi ya i will write down all i can see that runs off the ecu as far as the injection system is concerned and there is no mention of a DME relay anywhere. CDI oil sensor fuel temp sensorCMP sensor water temp sensorrail pressure sensorCrank position sensor4 injectors high pressure pump shut off valve rail pressure control valve fuel shut off valve. The only other relays are to do with lights ect ect Martin
Yup - youre in the right forum Theres a repair manual published by Peter Russek Manuals Russek Publications - Vehicle Manuals and if youre familiar with downloading torrents you can find shop manuals online. Basically disconnect battery negative drain coolant clamp oil hoses if auto tranny de-pressurize AC system if u have 1 remove fan shroud remove front grille unbolt then up and out disconnect coolant
Youve probably got a fuel distributor that is so gummed up and the piston has reduced movement or is frozen in a single position. Many members of this and other forums have observed this malady on cars that have sat a wee too long in storage. Pull the air filter housing off and put a finger on the plate (I assume you have K Jetronic with the air metering flap) and push down. You should feel slight
Thank you guys for the great insightful help From your input I may first of all clean the schrader valve areas with brake clean and once again verify that it is indeed leaking. I may even use a bit of soap and water while the AC system is on to see if the leak is enough to get beer foam bubbles. Once I am 100% sure that is where the leak is I may attempt a gentle tightening of the schrader valve and
So thats what it does Ill try that tomorrow. Presumably its got to have some heat in the system first. So what does the button with the wiggly arrows do Is that the heater boost I heard someone talk about It doesnt seem to do anything. What do you use your vito for Dave
Hi According to the mercedes-benz maintenance booklet a vito without ASSYST should have an oil service every 22500 km and a Maintenance service every 45000 km. With additional work being carried out at 2 and 3-yearly intervals. The booklet also says that the 90000 km Maintenance service should also include additional operations. Under the SPECIAL MAINTENANCE requirements heading in the booklet it says
Quote Originally Posted by MB1316 There is a discussion about degrading rubber fuel lines primer pump etc. with the use of biodiesel. www.benzworld.orgforumsw123-e-ce-d-cd-td1223551-official-alternative-fuel-thread.html If there is a fuel air leak due to degraded parts air could be sucked into the system. Could this cause a loss of power or just rough running mercedessource.com sells a biodiesel friendly
converted this 190E to run on R-134 (viton rings new receiverdryer new compressor etc.) and am trying to figure out the refrigerant capacity for this car. Anyone help out I hear a figure about 2.2 lbs thrown about. Also sight glass shows milkycreamy fluid which some say is normal operation some say are tiny bubbles meaning more refrigerant needed. Any help A recent post on the subject httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsw201...mlpost4779355
) because of viscosity of bio diesel an extra pump may be required to force feed the hp pump but here is the main difference the tolerance of common rail injectors means they block very easily and the cost of injectors and hp pumps . So extra inline filters maybe required and an ecu remap to match setup . On visit to bosch center was told manufacturer does not matter eg ford peugeot vw mercedes