Has this motor been sitting in the garage with the valve cover off It might be unrelated but that head looks it hasnt had oil in it ever...
Yea the motor had been sitting in the shed uncovered for about a month when that photo was taken. Decided to replace the motor instead of fix the valves etc as the motor had already done 250000 ks. This photo was just to show what actually broke. Decided to cover up the engine and keep it for spares.
Its been a wile so i may be breaking the no reply after 3 months rule but i have some important info Ive had a few problems since i replaced the engine Wiring loom was an issue with the replacement motor as the old 1 was used which kind of crumbled away when it was plugged in. Supposedly the wiring looms LOVE to soak up any moisture which leads to failure. So when detailing the engine DO NOT PRESSURE
Ive been dealing with my girlfriends 95 C200 so many problems... Its a hand-me-down from the parents but would have been better & cheaper to sell it for scrap and buy another. The original engine blew a piston through the head at around 300000kms after sitting parked for a month then driven on the highway. The replacement engine was a South African version which didnt need expensive coding doesnt use
Thats the normal casting for an unfinished portion of the camshaft. No problem there. The tinthue inside there is just from oil staining over the life of the car. Looks pretty good for that mileage. I have seen much worse with half of that mileage. Doug
I concur. Looks good.
Thats good news thanks I have yet to put the car up on a lift but the remaining questions are 1) Inside the trunk there is some rust in the spare wheel well (just surface for now) and also along the inside of the bumper as seen from the spare wheel well. 2) The cruise control stalk is loose and cruise doesnt work so will have to look into effort required to fix it. Other than that car is in relatively good condition and Im considering the purchase.
there are a lot there are 3 brands in europe doing shafts for our cars this gives us about 6-7 profiles to choose from I dont have the info here wiht me but I can check later today. Altough I saw m111 cams for vanos cars and I think our cars have adjustable timing which Im not toatlly sure yet. Etienne
well I was told there is a onoff type of valve setting in the MB but I wasnT able to get a real answer yet. Altough there is def. a variable timing m111 since the cam companies show different cams for variable and non variable engines. from this page httpwww.internetautoguide.comcar-specifications09-int2000mercedes-benzc-class it states - 2295 cc 2.3 liters 4 in-line engine with 90.9 mm bore 88.4 mm
[QUOTEmanicdemise4536251]Decided to give a shout out here first before I try posting this on Ebay (again). Selling Ultra rare (2) Schrick race camshafts for the R170 SLK230 m111 engine. Fits all m111 engines from 98-04. Theyre brand new cams never before installed or used. These camshafts were specifically made for BrabusRenntech SLKs and were never sold to the public you will not see these camshafts
I paid 1.2K. Both cams are good for 5 to 10 bhp on a stock car and this info is from Schrick so who knows what they will do for a SLK 230 with a ASP Racing crank pulley. I bet they really help me out with at the very least 10 to 15 bhp but who knows with the SLK Andy Chiew paid 2.5K I think he said. Renntech was charging 3K when they were selling them. Anyone who is interested can email me via benzworld
Guys chill out. 1st off I found these cams were part of a deal Brabus made with Schrick for cams for the m111 motors in the many cars MB has put them in. There was a contractual dispute and the deal fell through. About a year ago my German friend and benzworld member Bruno called Schrick and they told him about these cams but not the story. I got ahold of Bruno recentlly and he set this deal up through
The oil would be in the wiring connecting to the camshaft sensors. I have added a photo below showing where these are. As for the timing chain I have heard some anecdotal reports of the single-row chains in the m111 and M271 I4 engines stretching and breaking but I am not sure about mileage on this. The timing chain can be replaced from the top. Its not a super difficult job but according to WIS it requires some special tools. I seem to recall one forum member thought that it could be done with a home fashioned tool. Heres the official WIS documentation httpbenzbits.comm271TimingChain.pdf
It could be a number of things but from what you are telling me that the swirling noise is coming from the crankshaft area I would start to look at the oil pump maybe check your oil pressure it would explain your tapping noise at the top of the engine. Also check that you have 12 volts at the camshaft adjuster we have had a few concerns with them being noisey...it is earthed by the engine control module. Does it have a ME or PMS control module
Quote Originally Posted by Guest It could be a number of things but from what you are telling me that the swirling noise is coming from the crankshaft area I would start to look at the oil pump maybe check your oil pressure it would explain your tapping noise at the top of the engine. Also check that you have 12 volts at the camshaft adjuster we have had a few concerns with them being noisey...it
Quote Originally Posted by bachusattackus Ive been working on decarboning my m111 and getting the engine to run smoother and quieter. Last year I did piston soaks and fuel rail cleanings repeatedly until I got rid of some ticking liftervalve noises. I am now using Kreen a mail-order engine tonic that is highly recommended on Bob Is The Oil Guy. It comes in a 32oz can you add 16oz to fresh engine oil
Treatment is finished. Drained and refilled Mobil1 0W-40 and a new Mann filter. The oil was black and smelled of turpentine again. Looking in the oil fill hole what little I can see of the camshaft and valve cover looks great. The black carbon between the cam lobes is gone. I notice just a little valve noise now very reduced from before the treatment. After the fresh oil was put in it seemed to take
Welcome the ebay offer has already been removed... A far easier and cheaper (500-600 incl labor) way of increasing horsepower (by about 10-15%) is to have the kompressor spin faster with the help of a larger crank pulley andor smaller kompressor pulley. Just search this site for pulley or ASP and you will find plenty of posts on the how-tos and results. The Schricks are no longer made for the m111
MY2002 C230 has variable valve timing Its the m111 engine rite Meanwhile I dont notice the M112 engine has variable valve timing in the SOHC configuration. Quote Originally Posted by rudeney Ive never heard of that but maybe the mechanic is referring to a problem with the camshaft adjuster These engines have a variable valve timing system that use a clutch type device to alter the camshaft angle relative
The m111 in the C230 has variable intake valve timing but not exhaust. And you are correct the M112 and M113 engines with SOHC (dual cams but one per bank) do not have variable valve timing. The M271 M272 and M273 all use DOHC (two per bank) and have variable valve timing on all cams.
The camshaft has both a position sensor and an adjuster magnet. The 16v m111 has variable valve timing and the magnet is used to make the adjustment. Installation of a new magnet is simple you need lint free shop towels to clean up the oil seepage and some sensor safe sealant such as Rensosil. When changing the magnet it is highly probable you could damage the coolant temperature sensor which is right
Ah... you have a 2001. Thats really for the W208 forum. Completely different engine here as it is a m111. I took a look at my WIS and there is a special note about your exact problem. Its obviously well known by M-B and entails replacing the camshaft adjustment solenoid and installing an adaptor cable. Relevant pages here for you to digest. (there seems to be a typesetting error in the second image
The camshaft advance gear is not a DIY repair. There are special tools involved take it to a dealer or benz independent shop.
Later this year I want to buy my wife a new car and then the idea of the turbo can be done. I can take my time and take off the M45 and go from there. I agree the T3T4 is to big and there are better options to go. One idea is that when the OEM airbox bypass vlave and M45 are removed there is plenty of room to install a centrifugal blower. Maybe a Votech V-5 F trim. It would only require mounting brackets
Hello sorry I did a mistake I talked to this engineer again. This setup ist for sport camshaft. So you need other camshaft this ECU - then ypu get 15 extra hp. regards Rod
Broken timing chain perhaps Remove oil cap get someone to crank engine and look inside for movement of the camshafts
On the way to work I got a Check Engine light. Went to advanced auto parts they brought out a scanner codes read P1519 camshaft Solinoid P0105 MAP Sensor Turned out to be the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator had come unplugged. Must have happened during the install. The manager at Advanced Auto Parts gave a me free section of hose to fix it. Check Engine Light went away on first start up
So any chance the OP can tell what was wrong with the car I just got P0340 and P0341. M104 and m111 are related very similar. I dont have oil on the wires since mine is fitted with a dongle that separates the cam sensor from the wiring harness. Any info would be appreciated
Quote Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup So any chance the OP can tell what was wrong with the car I just got P0340 and P0341. M104 and m111 are related very similar. I dont have oil on the wires since mine is fitted with a dongle that separates the cam sensor from the wiring harness. Any info would be appreciated After replacing the parts the CEL went away and the car ran and idles smoother.
The Cam Adj Magnet is just the actuator.....no moving parts..... not the cause of the rattle The Variable Valve Timing Adjuster is connected directly to the inlet camshaft and is the cause of the rattle The Magnet and Adjuster are not directly connected.......when the Magnet is energised it causes a metal plunger to move in the Cam Adjuster allowing oil pressure to fill a chamber within the Cam Adjuster to advance the Cam.....when power is removed from the magnet the plunger closes cutting off the oil flow and returning the Cam timing to its base setting As far as I know the only fix is replacement of the Adjuster ....this is a known m111 problem that has been put down to the tolerances of the components involved are too large The rattle showed up early in some m111 engines in their first year ....there is a TSB dating back to 2002 that someone might be able to post .....at that stage there was no solution other than replacement of the Adjuster mechanism Unfortunately the Adjuster mechanism is quite expensive and requires somewhat more than basic mechanical skills to replace. The Cam Adjuster is attached to the Inlet camshaft..... so it will require removal of the Valve and Timing covers to remove the Timing Chain and replace the Adjuster If the oil hasnt been changed for a while you could try changing to a slightly thicker oil.....I use Mobil 1 5W-50 in Australia ....but it rarely gets below 10degC (50degF) here in mid Winter I suggest you get an opinion from an MB Dealer Workshop....they will probably say drive with the roof down turn the radio up and dont worry about it ........... but your rattle might be worse than the common rattle and need Adjuster replacement ......this is where an opinion from an experienced mercedes Trained Mechanic is worthwhile Good Luck David
This (leaking camshaft magnet seal spoils all electric) is unfortunately is plausible and not too infrequent story. The dealer swapped mine at about 30000 mi before it had a chance to cause havoc. I now have a oil stop device plugged in between cam shaft mag and the wiring leading the ECU which I found on the German ebay site ( ├lstopp Kabel oil stop cable mercedes SLK R 170 m111 bei eBay.de Nutzfahrzeugteile
issue with the m111 - the variable intake camshaft likes to leak oil into everything as capillary forces draw the oil even along into distant cables. Remove the front plastic cover and check all plugs for oil. the camshaft sensor is the one sitting right on the camshaft cover (the gold-colored lid on the right). If there is oil try cleaning the contacts and see whether this remedies the issue. mercedes
- P0341 camshaft Position Sensor Circuit RangePerformance 3) - P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction 4) - P1519 RH Adjustable camshaft Timing Solenoid 1- Check the vacuum hose that goes to your map sensor. It is located between the air intake tube going to your throttle body and the engine. It sits on a bracket atop the intake manifold. It is small black and square and says Denso and benziner
your fluids and your filters. All of em. Your car needs good parts and fluids. You need Mobil-1 0w-40 oil (or equivilant european-brand full synthetic oil). I am running Valvoline Maxlife Transmission Fluid I actually got this at a Valvoline quick lube. But you will need a new filter which the quicklube places wont do so you probably need to find a good independant mechanic who specializes in mercedes
Maybe you will not have to set but certainly you have to check the setting. This engine have conflict contruction I mean if you set timing wrong pistons can meet valves and damage the engine. The lower arrow indicate the hole which have to coincide with the hole at bearing (the first one from wheelsfront). The same should be for intake camshaft but youve got m111 with variable timing so I am not sure.