Quote Originally Posted by michael501 Does anybody have a pic of the exhaust manifold gaskets-do they also require the mercedes sealing compound Michael if you undoing the bolts to the exhaust side of the manifold. Will you look see if the nuts are rivnut i.e can be knocked out the manifold if bolt was to break and or is the bolt threaded into the manifold thanks.
Quote Originally Posted by megadamp Michael if you undoing the bolts to the exhaust side of the manifold. Will you look see if the nuts are rivnut i.e can be knocked out the manifold if bolt was to break and or is the bolt threaded into the manifold thanks. Hey I am the one that knows nothing here
Thanks 43. Does that def mean there is no thread in exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe connection Just bolt that screws into rivit nuts. I have not been able to find a picture of the manifold close enough to see if there is any threads.
Thanks 43. With all the expertsvery knowlegable people on here its the not so exciting parts that anyone knows little about. In my mind why install rivnuts if the manifold has thread. They are made like that to knock out if the bolt snaps. And what would be the advantage of threading the exhaust. The bolt just has to clamp the two together. But hey its a mercedes.
Unfortunately the warranty expired about 4000 miles ago. I did take full advantage prior to that and had my power steering pump and alternator replaced. I wonder about the alternator but the dealer suggested it while I was having other work down. I figured sure while its under warranty. I know that dealerships love warranty work because they make money from mercedes. Anyway I will call the service
Just a follow up that I forgot to post. I ended up finding a used exhaust manifold which cost 80 including shipping from the NY area. A local exhaust garage replaced it for an additional 25. Both the parts vendor and the installer gave me a 6 months warranty on the part and labor so it work out very well. Just and FYI there is some metal mesh webbing bonded to the inside of the exhaust manifold which
had the same friggin noise. turned out to be the exhaust manifold. Noisy as all get out and yes Tabo is correct about the bolts. They are a BIATCH to remove. You may have some recourse RE the cat. EPA regulations may trump the dealers blunder. Fire up the torch FR
Not very easy at all. Especially with 7 yr. old studs and nuts. The big problem with anything exhaust is rust and without an oxyacetylene torch you wont get anywhere. If you break any studs then you have to remove the head and have the stubs removed by a machine shop. I think the ML has an individual gasket per exhaust port but usually the problem with manifold leaks are hairline cracks in the casting.
Quote Originally Posted by clkmb Last night messing around in the garage I left the air filter box off the intake. The hood was open I started the car and idled it for about 30 seconds before I realized that I forgot the air filters and shut the car off. I put the air filter box back on and restarted the car. The hood was still open. Immediately after I started the car I saw thin white smoke rising
The exhaust manifolds which are directly under either air filter when the engine cover is on do not have any oil on them. Whats really strange is that they produce smoke when the engine covers (as I called it air filter box) are fitted on. However when the engine cover is removed and the engine is sucking in unfiltered air there is NO smoke. Whats even stranger is that the engine operates erratically
Quote aggarao - 842004 320 PM I think my 89 280 ge which i drive to work everyday has a leak or a crack in the exhaust manifold or its exhaust sytem. Is there anyplace i can get one Or is it possible to have it repaired Or welded Has anyone experienced repairing the stuff Concerning the repair it is all dependent on where the crack is located and how it looks like. A few possibilities are There is
I removed the exhaust and intake manifolds tonight. I am replacing the old gasket because there seemed to be a little (very little) dusting of carbon just above one area of the exhaust manifold. When I cleaned everything up and examined the exhaust manifold I noticed some lite scaling on the surface that would be facing the new gasket. I suspect I should have this resurfaced at a local machine shop
Dave Actually I am a little surprised that you might use JB. I suppose it is OK. Is this The Dave At any rate I went to the machine shop and showed the owner of the shop my concern. He said not a problemhe could take a couple of thousands off the exhaust manifold. I than told him whatever he took off the exahust manifold I wanted him to remove from the intake manifold (easily measure on both) - since
I just had a look at my engine. The gasket looks like a triple laminate and is fairly thick. My G came with a new exhaust manifold gasket and bolts. There does appear to be some level of uneven pressure along the gasket. In the areas where the intake manifold contacts the gasket there is a very slight separation between the three laminates of the gasket suggesting that perhaps there is a little more
I went back to the machine shop and considered this whole matter more with him. As I looked at the two manifolds it dawned on me that if both surfaces are machined smoothly I would prefer the exhaust manifold to be a little bit thiner (that is if it can not be perfectly the same as the intake mainfold). I can easily adjust the intake manifold position by careful grinding the softer metal where the
Hi Steve Nah . . . its pretty straightforward to do. Theres not much room naturally and to get to the flange bolts (engine pipe end) I discovered its best to use about 18 of extension bar so that you work the rachet from well beneath the level of the transmission pan. Youll also probably need to access some of the lower manifold nuts from underneath (the back two). I loosened all the manifold nuts
Quote Not sure about the exhaust Mani differences but yes the C36 does have the EGR on the exhaust mani aswell. I think that it might depend on which market the C36 was built for. My C36 (Australia) does not have anything on the exhaust manifolds at all. I also suspect that the C280 and C36 exhaust manifolds are the same. I havent seen any reference to a special AMG manifold.
Did you find a solution buddy for ur exhaust manifold
Dave We did have some success in repairing old manifolds when I owned my machine and metal fab shop. Here is how we did it First grind it clean but not through. Heat the manifold with a tourch hot but not red. Use a nickel rod to weld it. Immediately after welding use a slag hammer (pointed end) to peck on the weld. Do this until it cools down. The peck marks will keep the weld from cracking again.
How about having yours welded Yours are a cast iron arent they It is kind of a pain because they have to be heated to get the weld to take but I would think that an exhaust manifold would be a good canidate. If they are like my 320 and made of a sheet steel sort of like headers welding would definately be the way to go.
Quote D. Reed - 2182004 835 PM Is there any place other then or cheaper then Europa to get an exhaust manifold for my 1990 300 GE Part 103-142-5802 ( and if they are not to much a 4302 as well) Thought it was just the gasket But after replacement The leak is the culprit. The s are from the castings Thanks Without your VIN I can only take a WAG but try these part numbers instead A.220.127.116.11 - Cylinders
I agree if or when I get it welded I will have the manifold surfaced. I have never seen a perfectly true exhaust manifold come off a motor. Tanks
thanks for all your replies much appreciated. I suspect a exhaust manifold leak on the driver side and it could be just the gaskets Im just going to take it to a Independent shop. Have a nice weekend everyone