If you get a knocking sound as you slow down it may not be related to the brakes it may be a worn control arm or sway bar bushing. Could be a universal joint gone bad on the driveshaft. Could be motor mounts. But it could also mean your caliper bracket broke or the pins that hold the caliper in place have broken. Either case its serious enough to have a qualified mechanic put it on a lift and look
Quote Originally Posted by Buellwinkle If you get a knocking sound as you slow down it may not be related to the brakes it may be a worn control arm or sway bar bushing. Could be a universal joint gone bad on the driveshaft. Could be motor mounts. But it could also mean your caliper bracket broke or the pins that hold the caliper in place have broken. Either case its serious enough to have a qualified
Quote 1 - I recently start getting little knocking sound when i press the brake gently coming down from 50MPH to 40MPH and then 30MPH. Note sure where this comes from Is it concerning What could have caused this I can tell exactly what this is. I just changed the pads and rotors on my 2006 and got the knocking noise on the right side. Apparently the aftermarket rotors and not dimensionally the same
Im not sure I can buy that as a solution. It seems to me that the lug bolts would secure the rotor tightly in place on the hub regardless of the set screw being in place or not. My guess is that the caliper slides have dust and grime build up on them or are scored which caused some binding when applying the brakes. I would recommend cleaning the slides and applying some high-temp grease. Also if you
My biggest problem withe the front pads is the immense brake dust they produce. Some have said its because theyre not too hard. One good thing about them wearing is it forces you to check things out (caliper rotor sliders etc.) if you normally dont.
out 2 pins. Clip held on by 2 pins come off easily and you can access the pads easily 6) disconnected SBC prior to starting job. Connector would not come off all the way so I wedged a thick piece of paper just to prevent any contact. 7) no error messages after job completion. 8) front pads and sensors were oredered from parts.com pads part number 004 420 9020 9) bought the rotors from Hoehn mercedes.
Though your vehicle is an 06 e350 in doing a lot of research online and digging around I just change my brakes and rotors on a 2005 e320. You know that 18mm socket you NEVER used Actually the one you probably dont have make sure you have it for the caliper bracket. I had to borrow a car to go to autozone for that damn socket. I guess some theres only one brake sensor on one side on my vehicle there
Quote Originally Posted by RJV Im in Australia and own a Year 2000 ML320 (purchased new in the UK) in need of a set of new rotors and pads. Im confident enough and have the necessary tools to do the work myself and have read many posts and tips on this forum (thank you all). But I have a few minor questions which I have not seen addressed here. 1. When I press the brake cylinder back to fit the new
Here is Petes publication in the meantime...... Sorry Dont have the original link How do you do a brake bleedflush From Pete Naylor I received a couple of questions about the brake flushbleed process I used so Ill just reply to everyone by writing up what I did here. Maybe others will find it useful. The ML320 is the first vehicle Ive owned with four separate brake channels so I thought it might give
You guys complain of dust from the 20042005 C230 your not going to do better. My 2002 dusted like crazy so I put in Porterfields good pad and much lower dust. Then I got the 2004.5 with the bigger calipersslotted rotors and it dusts less than the Porterfields did on the 2002. Friend of mines 2004.5 C240 dusts like my old 2002 because that car has the old style brakes. I think if you have the new type
Yeah Ive taken all four wheels off since the warning light came on inside the dash and checked all the sensors. Does anybody know the front and back brake disc minimum limit so i can check with a vernier calipers
My 2 cents... Dont bother to have the stock original rotors machined. I did and in 2 weeks they warped. I even replaced the pads with the stock ATE very dusty pads. This was done at about 35K miles. After the rotors were warped I replaced them with Brembo stock versions. Now at 62K I just replaced the pads again. This time I went with EBC green. The Brembo rotors have held up pretty well and I just
Akebono brakes and centric premium rotors from Rockauto did the trick for me and they work great with minimal to no dust on my E500. The only headache I encountered was discovering that I had to pop off the plasticrubber bolt covers for the caliper and caliper frame bolts to expose the torx bolts. Also you will need to pry back the old brakes just enough to slip the caliper assembly off of the rotors.
Just used xmans guide to do my rear pads & disks. It was a great help. Couple of items that may help those doing it The caliper mounting bolts are the two 16mm bolts one above each otehr at the very front of the caliper on inner side. There is some interference so you need a socket and torque wrench that will fit in there. My 38 drive did - barely. I used coated Zimmerman disks. They specify that the
Quote Originally Posted by Mikes ML I had the same problem on my Corvette several years ago. It turned out to be the flexible brake lines going to the calipers being clogged. It would let the high braking pressure close the claipers but would not let the brake fluid return locking up the calipers. This may not be your problem but it is one thing to look at. One other thing is to check the pistons to
I do not know if this happens to anybody else. I had to get a parcel out of the back after forgetting to bring it inside. I only opened the rear door and I did not hear the SBC system pre-test the brakes and pump the calipers. Not sure if it is only the drivers door or either front door that has to open to get the SBC to wake up.
guess is - it needs single piston and the type is disc. Is that correct Hey Carromkid yes you are correct..You have 4 wheel disc brakes so rotors (also known as brake discs) all the way around. Check out the sponser section on the left sidecolumn of this page. Definitely find pads from many of the spnsers... and rotors too if you need them. Heres one of many DIYs out there. InstallUniversity.com mercedes
The only thing substantially different between the front and rear brakes on the ML320 will be evident when (if) you remove the rotor. The rear rotor actually has an inner drum with brake shoes used for the parking brake. Sometimes that systemÃ‚„s adjustment wheel has to be turned to relieve pressure between the shoes and drum before the rotor can be pulled free from the hub Ã‚ exactly like working
to come out first. You may have to lift up on the caliper and pull the bottom out letting the top pad notches pivot on the top slide (or vice-versa). Once you do this you should be in good to replace the pads. If this does not do the trick let me know and IÃ‚„ll see what I can help you with. - RODNEY Rodney I am in the same situation that you describe here but being very new to car repair on a benz
Thanks for the reply...thing is I would like to order them online. I was going to order PAGID brand pads. They only list the two options I stated in my first post... My discs are factory cross-drilled and the calipers look pretty big and say mercedes benz printed very large on the caliper... Anyone know if this is considered the EvolutionSports brakes Do all C230 Sedans have front calipers that say mercedes benz on them Thanks
Quote Originally Posted by FrankW 2002-2006 C3255 all use the same front and rear brake setup. 2004.5 C230k320 sport sedan has the same front brake as the C3255 other than it says mercedes on them. They are 4-piston brakes. The rear uses the standard non-vented disc from the 2002-2006 rear. 2002-2004 C230k240320 all have the same brakes other than the 320 has the vented rear disc. early 2005 C230k320
discussion on the subject on BMWVW and Porsche sites 10 each Oberoi I must admit I havent replaced the caliper bolts the two times Ive changed pads since Ive had the car from new. I removed the OEM pads at 10000km as I was fed up with black wheels 3 days after cleaning them. MB were no help at all when I asked them if they had any solution with a low dust pad ... no mate you can only use the mercedes
I too was skeptical about the brake wear leveling system but my rears were almost as badly worn as my fronts during my last replace. It caught me by surprise for sure (wasnt excited about dropping another 100 on pads etc once I thought I was in the clear). I like the brake feel of the ML using the OEM pads and have installed OEMs (not the benz-branded OEMs but the centex ones which benz just slaps
Quote I already have the mercedes pads. They work good but I want better. I dont mind changing them more often becuase they are softer. ... My feelings exactly. I love my G500 but its not perfect and one of the areas that has dissipointed me are the brakes. I know Ill catch flak for saying this but my 89 Range Rover still has much better brakes that my new G has. This just isnt right. Getting back
on the back of the caliper pull the caliper away from the rotor pop the old pads out (disconnect the sensors first) compress the piston with a C clamp add the new pads (they clip in) put the caliper back on tighten everything up voila Penetrating oil and a breaker bar may be needed for the caliper bolts... needed both today. Made a 12 hour job almost 2. The 95f heat didnt help either. Type in mercedes
SL600 some SL500 rotors are the same). The calipers are still modified to work on the C-class as the SL-class has trailing calipers and the C-class has leading calipers (the C32 also has trailing calipers and although the calipers physically bolt on the application is not completely correct). The rear brakes were lifted from the E-class not necessarily the E500 as speculated earlier. Yes some mercedes
Quote Originally Posted by todds911 Ok when I had my tires replaced they told me I would need front brakes soon. Then two days later my red brake Warning Visit Workshop came on. The next day the light went off maybe it was something with the brake Fluid but I went ahead and ordered the front brake pads and brake sensor wires anyway. So Ive done my research and plan to change them. Here is my plan -
I am in the process of fininshing my caliper paint project [)]. To answer your questions you are going to have a hard time finding break pads for the front for less than 55 dollars i think the cheapest are found in tire rack online. to answer you second question the best way to do it is to dive into it. But before you do very important if you dont want to get your self into a lot of trouble dont disconnect
When removing old brake pads the caliper pistons need to be pushed back. This compresses the volume of brake fluid in the caliper and pushes it back to the system. In this case I did not have to drain or siphon off any brake fluid. I had a turkey baster for that purpose along with a metal screw top can if I needed to draw off any fluid. Since I had flushed the brake fluid 18 months earlier was not
Quote Originally Posted by mercbentz Greetings This is my first post on this Forum and am a bit intimidated. I have the following problem which I hope I can get advice on The ESPBAS light is ON and the car pulls strongly to the left after a steering fluid major spill in the engine compartment and brake pads change Detailed Intro On my ML320 I had the steering fluid hose clamp go open while driving
Quote Originally Posted by Witek_M You need to concentrate on mechanicalhydraulic portion of brakes. For power steering fluid to reach wheel speed sensors it would have to be knee deep. There is only 2 liters of fluid in power steering. Look at front brake discs. Any difference in color One severely overheated will have bluish tint. Drive around some and compare disc temperature with infrared thermometer.
Ive put Akebono pads on my C320CDI and couldnt be more pleased with them. Bought them from Rock Auto. They have good feel they have plenty of stopping power and hardly an atom of brake dust. As for new calipers I think youre being gouged or the mechanics are being lazy not thinking it through or both. I agree with other posters that its extremely unlikely calipers would need replacing on a 2011 model.
the square shape to which you refer looks like a label that was not removed from the alloywheel before mounting. The mounting marks of the wheel on the disk suggest it is an alloy. i.e it was a new wheel fitted. Did the car have an accident previously have an accident where that wheel was struck Perhaps it spun and hit the rim off kirbing Hence the new wheel and the uneven wear - just a theory. discs
Quote Originally Posted by am_beagle There are brake pad sensors one front and one rear diagonally like RF and LR or vice versa. Trust them dont trust your money making adviser. 1 Between standard and sport packages yes they are different. Not much. The AMG models use bigger rotors hence different pads. Yours is not. 3I think the most popular brand and Im happily using them now is Akebono or something
Quote Originally Posted by John R Any recommendations for aftermarket brake pad replacements Something that has less dust but maintains performance and durability. Ive been searching the web (and this forum) but I cant seem to find anything that has a 2005 E55 application. Thanks John Have just replaced my old front pads with Agner Auto Supplys best Wagner ceramic pads. I had a bad squeak before due
Quote Originally Posted by sbrewer715 I have an 2002 ML320 that has a metallic pinking noise coming frm the drivers side rear wheel hub I removed the wheel and caliper yesterday and trid to access the rear parking brake mechanism but could not get the disc to come off. I was afraid to hit it to hard in case I bent it and wasnt sure if there was anything else holding it except the small allenbolt. So
Quote Originally Posted by butler Ive read countless threads on DIY brake pad changes herein and discovered various approaches in completing the job. I decided to read the service manual at AllDatadiy.com and follow the directions from the service manual rather than dismantling the caliperand other suggestion herein etc. My results 4 new sets of ceramic brake pads installed within 90 minutes (note
Quote Originally Posted by mclass13 you just need that tool to push the caliper piston back i remember the mechanic when i did the front pads he used a hammer to push the piston back. A hammer Ouch. If you dont have a piston retraction tool (most pro mechanics have this a set is not an expensive tool Matco Tools Rear Wheel disc brake Piston Tool DB25 eBay for example) you can CAREFULLY pry the piston