I presume theyre fitting it for 400 parts & labour
You have to remove the caliper and caliper bracket then the hub as noted above. After removing the grease seal you can pull the inner bearing. Youd want to pull the hub anyway otherwise you cannot clean out the old grease and inspect the races. And by the way you only need a press (manual or hydraulic) to swap the races not the bearings themselves. Adjusting them after cleaning and repacking is really
OK the spec calls for 0.01-0.02mm end-play. That is 0.0004-0.0008. I dont know about you guys but my professional-level dial indicators are not that precise When I do mine I will use the method used on the auto assembly lines for many years. The idea on a front wheel bearing is to get as close to zero preload and zero end play as possible. The easiest and most precise way that I know of is to snug
Quote Originally Posted by soundquest Excellent. Thanks guys Anyone tried this with a rental slide hammer Tried what There is a special tool to remove the grease cap but you really dont need it. And Im not sure what you can use a slide hammer for on this job. Once you remove the caliper and caliper framemount you then remove the dust cap and the pinch nut. Then just pull on the rotor (it is affixed
Quote Originally Posted by Check Codes Tried what There is a special tool to remove the grease cap but you really dont need it. And Im not sure what you can use a slide hammer for on this job. Once you remove the caliper and caliper framemount you then remove the dust cap and the pinch nut. Then just pull on the rotor (it is affixed to the hub by the set screw) and the rotor and hub will slide off
Quote Originally Posted by SHAUNE55 I always knock them out and knock the new one back in I use the old race upside down to make sure the new one is seated correctly. This is also how I have always done it. You can buy press tools everywhere even Harbor Freight. That said beware the prices you can find online. The aftermarket has many cheap suppliers whose manufacturing prowess is inversely proportional
Thanks for the tips. I am confident enough now to give it a go. I bought the URO kits which were the least expensive but came with caliper bolts as well. Maybe these are the cheap ones I am being warned about Link bearings The Rein kit has Koyo bearings and the URO does not specify. I am not interested in trouble from poorly made parts.
Schweinhund Im curious how many miles on your machine and what lead you to believe its time for the bearings to be replaced Would the rears need to be replaced at about the same time And Im assuming the rears would be far more difficult as the axles would need to be removed. Thanks in advance for your comments. Mike K.
Quote Originally Posted by Mike K. Schweinhund Im curious how many miles on your machine and what lead you to believe its time for the bearings to be replaced Would the rears need to be replaced at about the same time And Im assuming the rears would be far more difficult as the axles would need to be removed. Thanks in advance for your comments. Mike K. Mike the car has 140K and was very quiet up until
This might help if you need any more let me know.
Quote Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss They are probably all turned on the same rusty lathe outside of Shanghai anyway but I see Pelican has a genuine mercedes for 137. Thanks. Your input is very valuable. 1999 mercedes-benz E320 Sedan - Axles bearings & Differential - Page 2 211 MB. Well its not 137 but still better than 260. 137 is for Drive Flange Rear. I guess its for the rear wheel and its called
Finally changed the front right wheel bearing myself. Ended up using an on-car hubbearing extractorinstaller as I dont have time to take a day off to go to a machine shop and none are open on weekends. No air tools either but would have been nice. The name of the tool is the OTC hub Grappler. Worked like a charm. Removing axle nut was a breeze with a 40 breaker bar. The self-locking nuts for the tie
So here is the write up with pics on the left rear bearing using the hub Grappler on-car bearinghub extractor. This is on a 2001 ML320. Attempt this at your own risk. I make no guarantees but I basically followed the mercedes WIS document. 1. Jack up car with jack stands and chock the wheels. Safety first 2. Remove wheel. Disconnect speed sensor and brake wear indicator bracket. 3. Remove caliper.
Replaced front wheel bearing on 1998 ML320 this last weekend. I have 210K miles on it and it was really starting to make some noise. Pressed out bearing and pressed new one in without taking hub off of vehicle. Still had to take loose upper ball joint and tie rod in order to pull axle all the way out of the hub. Cost was the bearing which was 65 and approx 150 worth of tools I picked up from harbor
Quote Originally Posted by Anaxios Is there no way you can take a dremel or small die grinder and pretend youre a dentist on the hub i.e. grind away the upset metal made from your earlier job of two years ago. I doubt you need the full 360-degrees ledge to keep the bearing race where its supposed to be. Also those things generally fit so tight on the diameter it could not have cocked very much if at
key and remove the bolt holding the outer bearings in place. 8.Remove the outer bearing and pull the rotorhub assembly out. 9. To remove the inner bearing use a screw driver and drive by the outer edges of the seal. Pop the seal out and the bearing comes out. 10. Take out all grease inside hub assembly. I sprayed the maf cleaner and used a rug to clan it thoroughly 11. Grease all bearings with mercedes
inch between push and pull. Same if I grab the wheel on the sides. I can actually hear a sound as the hub move from one side to the other. To my mind that is too loose and there should be no visible movement or sound from the hub. But what confuses me is that is that I see the same amount of movement on both the E320 and the SLK320. Of course the mileage is about the same (112K and 122K). Does mercedes
Im new to the mercedes world but not to automotive repair. Before I start work on any car I own the first investment I make is to buy a factory service manual. I do this for several reasons but one is that I feel bad asking questions on forums when 99% of the information is already documented. So I ordered the Star DVD from mercedesmanuals.com over three weeks ago (BAD IDEA) never got it and im out
Quote Originally Posted by Biddyhead Howdy folks Got a 2003 E320. I recently put some after market wheels on the car and as a result the grease caps on the front wheels didnt fit and were left off the car for about 2000 miles. Ive modified the caps so they will work now but I want to repack the front bearings to make sure they are good to go. Anyone know how to go about that I see theres a retaining
Quote Originally Posted by Diesel benz Where do you get the bearings separately then I mean it does not make sense to order the spare part and remove the bearing from the new hub and put it into the old one. I assume it is sufficiently standard to be available from good bearings suppliers why do you want to replace the actual bearing i thought this thread was just for re-packing them The bearing race
Hi Not Handed means they can fit either side most types of bearings are not handed. Just buy a trolley jack if you plan on doing a bit to the van it will come in very usefull. You want to jack the van up but leave the wheel on to check the bearing if you dont you will find it impossible to spin the hub to listen to the bearing and you wont be able to feel for any play. You cant physicaly see the bearing till you remove it and you wont be able to see if there is anything wrong with it unless it has totaly destroyed itself (you would know if that was the case) Dont forget to knock the outer ring back on the nut where it has been knocked in before you try to take it off this is how its secured in place after torqueing up. Thats not a bad price for the bearing this is the cheapest i could find mercedes VITO 96-03 front WHEEL bearing OE QUALITY eBay UK Cheers Martin
Quote Originally Posted by Spique500 I have a 2004 S 500 with the AMG sport pack. It does this funky wriggling thing on the highway. Turns out its bad front bearings and of course mercedes wants an arm to replace them. I was hoping somebody had instructions so I can do it myself I do know cars Im just new to the German ones. Please help What the hell is wriggling thing There is nothing special about
If you have these tools you can do wheel hub assembly. I forgot you must also have knowledge of doing that. I guess its still best to bring it to the dealer than forcing yourself to do something that is not really a do yourself thing. Large 1-14 AF socket for wheel bearing nut. 12 inch AF 12 point socket for removing brake caliper bolts (34 inch AF for front calipers). 13mm socket for removing hub
Its a complete pressed and cold formed head on the inside of the bearing keeping the axle in the bearing. The stub axle and bearing cant be separated without grinding - then no safe way to reassemble. Merc dont list a service time for replacing a wheel bearing. However there is a service time to replace a complete hub. Now we know why. Yup it turns out the only solution is a complete hub from mercedes
Having today just finished removal resurface and installation of my front rotors Ive been working on a theory as to why the front G bearings are prone to wear out. Heres my theory In an effort to improve the overall turning radius and axle strength it appears the MB engineers used an unusual approach to reduce the distance (or turning radius) from the swivel-pin axis to the wheel. The G axle design
the new outer bearing installed the axle nut installed the rotor set up the magnetic mount and runout gauge adjusted the bearings tightened the clamp bolt on the axle nut tapped on the grease cap reinstalled the caliper put the wheel on installed and torqued the wheel lugs and lowered the car. Just because theres numerous steps doesnt mean it takes forever. 2 people with decades of combined benz