I am interested to find out if anyone has replaced these bushings as well I would like to order one of every suspension bushing measure it and then find urethane bushings to fit. I want to do this with all the suspension bushings and then end up with a complete set of urethane bushings on the car (as much as possible).
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Quote Originally Posted by hamada128 If you think you will piss him off other people wont. Share the info. I am too self conscious now you know let me first try it then I will share promise. I will do it for sure since I am restoring this car. Tomorrow I will be playing with the suspension steering and stability components so maybe then and only after then that I would formulate a coherent procedure. All I have to do first is find where in the hell is the blinker fluid.
Quote Originally Posted by no yes 190e I have a 1990 190e and need to change the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints. In looking for parts I have found that you need to know with sport suspension or without sport suspension. How do I know what control arms I have Please help. VIN
Quote Originally Posted by no yes 190e I have a 1990 190e and need to change the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints. In looking for parts I have found that you need to know with sport suspension or without sport suspension. How do I know what control arms I have Please help. dealer ones are now non specific but aftermarket will be if you have the sportline package on your 190e.
Thanks for the info all I purchased a pair of control arms and they have the sport suspension bushings in them (I think two large bushings on the front and rear of the control arm) Can I install them on a non-sport suspension car Please advise.
Quote Originally Posted by MTI All new lower suspension arms have the sport bushings pre-installed . . . mercedes did away with the non-sport units. X2 If this is true what is the difference in installation It looks to have room in the bracket So what is the difference in the control arm bushings One big one small Please help this is confusing.
It cannot be done at home unless you have a ball joint press available to say the least. Even then unless youve done it before it is not recommended for the first timer. Your mechanic can buy the ball joint seperately or there are available entire lower arms on the aftermarket (but these are really unecessary To replace the lower ball joint the old one must be pressedknocked out and a new one pressed
All numbers in the picture are from Lemforder parts catalog (cheaper but also deutsch quality) Part number of the ball-joint 124 333 03 27 Part number for the left Track Control arm wishbone 124 330 30 07 Part number for the right front Track Control arm wishbone 124 330 31 07
Thanks Gents. There are nibs and one set goes horizontally and the other vertically. After a lot of digging I found the information buried in the service manual in the suspension section. They tell you how to orient the bushings. I want Teutones buddy for deals I think just my ball joints cost that much SMP22 the bolts were very easy to remove. I did use a spring compressor removed the springs supported the arm on hydraulic jack and used a drift punch and hammer to walk the bolt right out.
Quote Originally Posted by smp22 Did you have a hard time removing the bolts I was told by my indy that its near impossible to take them out that they rust solid and need to be heated .. that a propane torch wouldnt do Not sure what to believe. Also did you use a spring compressor Thanks its easy to believe that as i am a mechanic too ( not certified yet ) today i did a inner tie rod on a 1973 450SLC
Quote Originally Posted by shingleback Thanks Gents. There are nibs and one set goes horizontally and the other vertically. After a lot of digging I found the information buried in the service manual in the suspension section. They tell you how to orient the bushings. I want Teutones buddy for deals I think just my ball joints cost that much SMP22 the bolts were very easy to remove. I did use a spring
I replaced both of my ball-joints It was around 50-60 for the part from AutohausAZ. I pulled the lower control arm off myself then had a friend of the family who works at a machine shop press the ball-joints in for 10 a side. Good to hear you got it replaced though I had one let out on me on a closed course thank god.
YES WHEEL BEARING ARE THE OBVIOUS AS ARE TIE-ROD ENDS. NEXT CHECK WOULD BE THE LOWER BALL JOINT OR A POSSIBLE DEFECTIVE LOWER CONTROL arm BUSHINGS. WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU STAND ON THE BRAKES FROM A 30 MPH ROLL. THAT SHOULD HELP TELL YOU EXACTLY WHAT KIND OF PROBLEM YOU ARE ENCOUNTERING.br
check your draglink & steering damper...br also try looking at your idler arm bushings...br
I had the same problem on my vehicle. Any movement in the wheel or compression causes it to squeek. First instinct was the seats of the springs needed to be lubricated when that failed i took the car up had someone make the noise what it sounded like was coming from the springs was actually coming from the ball joints. the control arm the way it is shaped actually makes a bell which projects the noise
07-03-2008 0659 PM cornblatt Visitor Join Date Jan 2006 Location Alberta Canada Posts 4 I think this should probably have been a new thread (rather than a reply to the welcome posting) but I will reply anyway... Ive attached the front spring selection chart from the EPC. Picking the correct spring involves adding up points from the chart. The 201.126 (190D-2.5) starts out at 39 points which requires
would also look at the Strut Mount. This is the rubber mount that goes between the front strut and the chassis where the top of the strut connects at the top. There are three nuts that hold it in place and as it wears the rubber cracks and should be replaced. I just replaced my struts at 74000 miles and my rubber mounts were okay but the Rubber Buffers and Strut Boots were cracked and broken. My mercedes
and that was where it was squeaking. I bought a pair of them on Ebay for 36.00 and 10.00 shipping. Great deal. But when I took the wheel off to replace it I did some further inspection and the upper front link was worn and the bushing at the chassis was gone. It was called a control arm stay or pulling strut depending on who you talked to. I got out the yellow pages and found a great place for mercedes
arrows are indeed pointing at the upper control arm bushing. You can buy complete control arms that include the bushings pre-installed along with the ball joints. [IMG]httpcatalog.ShopByVehicle.epcq&yearid19971997&makeidMB MBX&modelidC%2D280%2D001C280Sedan&catidL suspension&subcatidL2000Controlarm&subcatidL2 000Control%20arm&applicationid000359394&modePA &cookieID2HR0QENZD2HR0QFHM6&sourcewww.mercedessh
Hi On a 190 W201 I was able to remove the front spring by jacking up the the suspension arm undoing the shock on top and then lowering the suspension arm again with the front end of the car up on blocks. Any idea whether this would work on the W124 with factory installed regular springs. Would the suspension arm go down far enough to free up the coil spring Thanks for your reply PS suspension on the
We just went through this on the 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16. The right side spring perch was tearing slightly - not a corrosion problem just old I guess or the right side hit something unusual. The car has 265k miles now. The procedure is costly as you will end up not putting any suspension parts back that have not been checked and had the rubber parts at least replaced. We tore both sides apart rebuilt
Quote Originally Posted by Wizz190E My 190E has 112k on it and everything that has to do with the suspension is original. I want this car to ride like it did when it was new what all should I do to make that happen. I want to do the front and rear shocks with Bilstein Comforts. How easy are the following to replace. (please let me know if im leaving something out) Struts & Shocks Flex Discs Bushings
I did a little work on my rear suspension also. Hyperco springs with perch kits Koni adjustable shocks set at 50% adjustable camber arms 25mm anti-sway bar In the front KONI ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS EIBACH COIL SPRINGS 32mm TORSION BAR I purchased the parts from and had them installed by Delsing Motorsport httpwww.delsingmotorsport.com I have a set of used rear hydraulic dampers for sale if anyone needs a
This forum has been a big help with a couple of problems Ive had with my 89 190E 2.6 so I thought it was time I gave something back [)] Boubounia I had very similar symptoms with my 190E. There was quite violent vibration through the steering wheel and across the dash over speeds of 80kmhr on slightly uneven roads. In my case the inner tie rod end and steering damper needed replacing. Note if tie rod
Here is a link to the FSM online to help you do this work yourself. I think the factory allows less than 2cm of free play of steering wheel travel with the car turned off. Like he said tie rods center drag link idle arm bushing (its not a bearing) and most important of all BALL JOINTS. If the ball joints fail your suspension separates driving the control arm down into the ground. Floating front end
The SLS system is a sweet setup so if you can keep it I recomend it. If you plan to delete it you would need to replace the rear springs for sure because the sls cars have very weak rear springs because the sls takes most of the load. If you just want a moderate drop you can prob. just keep the springs you have. The most comon issue with the sls is rear nitrogen chambers and you can get a set for about
Prices (orders new parts...yummy) - calculation made for 2.57 lei one USD - the right rear strut 5837 Alco Spain USD incl tax. (ordered Ill have it by tomorrow 14 GMT2) - the right rear bearing 4864 USD incl tax. (ordered Ill have it by tomorrow 14 GMT2) - the both front inferior control arms bushings 4 pieces (2 for each control arm) - 1790 USD each (will order after I resolve the rear issues) - the
Well I had a second opinion on the front suspension. It seems that the right front spring has gone. So I went to the junkyard and bought a pair for the front for 39 dollars from a mint dismantled 2.6 they had there. I also took my previously ordered NEW right rear strut and wheel bearing (the sunroof jaws will come by tuesday). I also have the price for the front coltrol arm rear bushings 18 dollars
Check your rear flex disk. Also take a look at all the rubber bushings on the rear suspension arms. My guess is you have a few worn bushings on one or more arms. The arm will need to be replaced. Also check the big bushings that hold the subframe to the chassis. Then move to the front and check your ball joints tie rods and center drag link. Finally check the idler arm bushing and shocks.