The most obvious thing to look for with the top off would be a situation where the float is stuck down or the needle isnt seating and cutting off the fuel when the float is raised. The theory being that your fuel bowl is filling up. That being said it can be kind of tricky to check because that floatneedle assembly is very touchy - it could pop back down if its currently stuck up as you remove the
Just rebuilt mine it says to start with the idle mix screws at tight and turn them 2 full turns out. Mine runs much leaner now it was rich and would gas you out of the shop. I was also missing the spring clip from the float tab to the needle. After the needle would seat it would stick in the hole and you would have to tap the carb with a hammer to unseat it and let fuel in.
Quote Originally Posted by bob082484 No thanks on the regear. Its a daily driver and I take the highway a lot. Im still not quite following on this. i dont see how this can be moved left or right. Ill be darned if I can put in a new motor in this jeep but I cant figure out the cps I did it on mine. You have to keep the distance from the sensor to the flywheel (airgap) within spec. From the drivers
I just recently installed seats from a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Spyder into my YJ. Wasnt easy and had to take off all the motors and such for the heated seats and electric adjustments (because I used the stock YJ rails). But wow. They are comfortable now. Has manual lumbar adjustments seat reclines all the way and used the original slider rails so they go back and forth. Much recommended
Hey trekhog did you get your motor started yet If so congrats if not i had the same problem with a remaned engine. Tried everything changed sensors etc...finally started over from the start checked the chilton manual. 1 pull 1 plug out 2 remove distributor 3 crank engine til you feel 1 on the compression stroke put finger on plug hole 4 turn crank with socket to line up mark on pulley to TDC mark on
Quote Originally Posted by pasinbuy I still have a question.. Are you going straight propane Years ago I hooked up propane to a truck that I owned. Maybe I can shed a little light on what to expect. Yes.. STR8 Pane... Quote Originally Posted by iowajeepers Im also curious about the link provided. It stated this setup was not for fuel injected setups Or did I miss something about the propane packages
set-up the right way... make sure you can afford to drop at least 2-3 grand before you start a swap. Maybe you will get lucky or you will find some great deals and end up spending less. (Yes I know I probably overpaid for things and bought things that I shouldnt have but it was my first swap and my first real attempt at major work on a vehicle so I learned a lot) Date Item Cost 9-Mar92 jeep
Quote Originally Posted by IH8ROADZ Has anyone ever had an issue with jeep Air I see a lot of guys put posts up about their AC they ordered through them. I bought a blower motor from them which stopped working about after 3 weeks. I sent it back to them and 3 weeks ago I got the excuse that I had to adjust the blower wheel because they saw it was rubbing and broke the blade which I didnt see at all
in the morning after which you take your foot off the pedal should be all it takes to start it up cold if the choke is in the correct closed position. Any more than that and you are just pumping excess gas into the cylinders and fouling your plugs. One other thing that it still could be is the fuel pressure is too high overwhelming the needle and seat. This is normally not a problem if your jeep
salt so I painted them black before the install. Just be sure to sand them before painting or the spray paint wont stick. Results Total Lift at seat 5 12 inches Rides like a Cadillac Gets 14.8 mpg Cruises at 70 mph 2900 rpm Plenty of power Slight hum from wheels (theyre MTs) Stopping takes a little more planning Useful links BB install Rubicon Express 2 Budget Boost Installation Write-Up for jeep
I did mine in about 3 hours maybe a little less. Here are some tricks. Mount the BL first of course. Make sure you disco the fan shroud first. Only problem with the body mounts is if you strip any bolts removeing the old ones. The snubbers up front cause a lot of people grief. Just lube them well with some sort of personal lubricant like K-Y Jelly or Astroglide. Instead of your hand to grip them use a pair of channel locks. POP they go right in. On the MML just loosen the mount through-bolt it does not need to be removed. Pull the 4 boltsnuts out that mount the motor mount to the frame. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the tranny to the shovel dont remove just loosen good. Lift the engine as high as you can. Spinturn the motor mounts back towards you. Check to make sure the supplied bolt extentsion goes all the way on. If it doesnt you will need to cut a little off the stock stud. Mine went all the way down with the help of a pair of pliers. Stick the spacer on and turnspin the mount back down lower the engine slowly bolt it down loosely only. Now bolt the fan shroud back down and start the engine. The engine vibrationshake will seat the motor mounts and trans mount where it wants too be. Shut it off and re-tighten all the fastners. You will need to re-adjust the TC linkage. I did a jeep Medic belly-up at the same time so no adjustment was needed. Bob
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING DANA 2-PINION TRAC-LOK 1) Drive vehicle to thoroughly warm up lubricant in rear axle. Place a piece of slick paper over a smooth formica board. Ensure formica board is on flat and level floor. Fig. 1 Exploded View of jeep Single-Case Dana Trac-Lok Differential Fig. 2 Exploded View of Split Case (4-Pinion) 2) Drive vehicle over formica board until one rear wheel is in the center
Quote Originally Posted by bigjim in vegas I have a vibration that starts at 35mph and stops at about 42. I can go up to 80mph (thats as fast as i want to ever drive my jeep) and there is no vibration. If i accelerate hard its almost unnoticable.Ive had my tires balanced my 3 differnt shop most recently 4 wheel parts here in las vegas and its still there. I have a 1999 tj pro comp 2 inch spring lift
on the car) is autohausaz.com - over 50 order and free shipping. Pellicanparts is a really good source as well but usually a bit more. Bavauto has a good selection but is also a bit higher in prices. For forums check out e30tech.com and r3vlimited.com. These cars are so easy to work on very well built and just overall a joy to own. I know I hi-jacked the thread... but these things along with the jeep....
.Might as well go ahead and nuttier now the stepper motor may not be working. httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf8ho...bypass-522262 The two screws are the idle adjustment screws. normally you would turn them all the way clockwise until seated NOT REAL TITE just until they bottom then back them out 1.5 turns. This would be the starting point. Bill
In trying to cure the rough idle I am thinking the carb is out of adjustment. Could someone tell me how many turns from seated the adjustment screws should be set at It has been a long long time since ive had to work on a carbd motor.
Thanks for all the quick responses. Rusty are you sure about the New York State mirror law I just pulled this from the OFFICIAL COMPILATION OF CODES RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK TITLE 15. DEPARTMENT OF motor VEHICLES CHAPTER I. REGULATIONS OF THE COMMISSIONER SUBCHAPTER D. EQUIPMENT PART 58. REAR-VIEW AND REAR OBJECT DETECTION DEVICES b) Outside rear-view-drivers side. (1) Field of
Quote Originally Posted by GoPackGo10 Thanks for all the quick responses. Rusty are you sure about the New York State mirror law I just pulled this from the OFFICIAL COMPILATION OF CODES RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK TITLE 15. DEPARTMENT OF motor VEHICLES CHAPTER I. REGULATIONS OF THE COMMISSIONER SUBCHAPTER D. EQUIPMENT PART 58. REAR-VIEW AND REAR OBJECT DETECTION DEVICES b) Outside
Quote Originally Posted by TJmooker my TJ is about to hit 100k miles and its falling apart piece by piece. things wrong with it Ripped windows Tattered top craptastic tubular front bumper about to rust off (literally just barely hanging on) engine is sounding horrible (valve lash i think) seat is torn rust is popping out throughout the body airbag light is on 4x4 indicator lights no longer work heater
RAMBO3489 89 YJ List of Modifications -4.2L NP231 (BA10 originally. AX-15 swapped) -35 Goodyear MTRKs -15 Mickey Thompson Classic 3s -Moore 58 shackles all around -3.5 BDS springs -Daystar 1 BL -Bilstein 12 5125 shocks -Russel SS brake lines -Tom Woods drive shafts -Advance Adapters SYE -AX-15 swapped in -Rebuilt 78 Ford high pinion Dana 44 front Yukon 4.88s Yukon Zip locker Yukon chromoly shafts Big
Its a straight forward job but there are some things left out of the instructions. Ill scan the instructions tomorrow at work and email them to you. Do you have the stepper motor on your carb Theres two sets of instructions. A few tips before though The factory setting on the fuel mixture screws on the frontbottom of the throttle plate body is 2 12 turns out from a gentle but firm bottom seating. Id
Good mpg in a cherokee IS possible. Note all my numbers are PRE ethanol in the fuel so if your sucking 10% ethanol your NOT going to hit these numbers. I have an 88 Cherokee 452000 miles on original motor Just swapped in a used motor from a donor jeep. Lifted 4 Inches skid plates and 31 tires. I drive like your grand mother drives. Its the only way your going to get both good mpg and a half a million
I like the 6 speed in the Versa a lot. It very direct with a good feel. I hate rubbery shifters. If you want to feel a bad transmission Ive driven a early 90s Ford Ranger with a 4 banger & 5 speed a early 90s Ford F150 with a 5 speed (thats a leg workout) mid 90s jeep wrangler (now I know what a WWII era transmission feels like) a late 90s Ford Mustang (another leg workout with a wierd kink in the