When it gets right down to it you probably could use a bunch of parts. A new trackbar or redrilled passenger side mounting hole would help. Having the front axle assembly centered under the jeep is a good thing. A drop pittman arm certainly wouldnt hurt although it puts more stress on the steering box mounting points and reinforcement may be needed even more than without it. (I would reinforce it anyway)
One problem is we only see a small portion of the overall picture of your jeep based on the info you give us. Trying to diagnos a problem like DW is very hard in these situations when there can be so many variables. Heres my opinion and I realize it might not be the least expensive solution but I believe its the best solution. Determine what you need for sure. Adj. Track bar If you have the stock track
Ok so I just ordered the Currie HD steering system. Hopefully it will be easy enough if its all bolt on. Do I need any other tools besides the basic wrenches and stuff
to the items that Eric mentioned you will probably need a tie rod end seperator sometimes reffered to as a pickle-fork. I looks like large 2 pronged fork with tappered fork tangs 10 tool. You remove the cotter pins and castle nuts then drive the pickle-fork with the 3lb sledge to seperate the tie rod ends from the drag link and from the steering knuckles. You didnt mention how many miles on your cherokee.
The relief valve works fine. I do not throw parts at things like everyone else. The spool valve sticking isnt happening because when it goes out I can still steer just got the low fluid noise and I am not low on fluid. I was thinking I am having a hose collapsing similar to brake hoses at certain pressure it would impend or block flow. on another note when the system is having the problem the fluid is foamy. Tell tail sign air is in the system.
Quote Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere I have had a power steering (PS) leak since I bought my jeep. PS level is fine every time I check it not loosing fluid. I thought it was leaking The PS pump is fine. Except for the leak PS pumps almost NEVER go bad. I can see the fluid circulating. Ive had to replace two pumps one on each jeep. Fluid still circulated even though it was pink (PO used tranny fluid
relief valve is on the cap. no water in the system. I drained refilled and bled the system twice. I have a ps hose crimp leak common. but it leaks out about 3oz every 6000 miles or so. Dye showed my only leak was at that crimp (which I have broke down and bought a new pressure hose. Going to put it on next week when I have a hoist open.) No leaks at the pump or gear box. I am going to replace the hose
Quote Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere relief valve is on the cap. THAT IS INCORRECT. The pressure relief valve is in the high pressure exhaust port of the pump. It is not a user-serviceable item. If it fails a new pump is installed. A spool valve failure may still give some or all of the normal boost but will introduce air into the system. View an exploded diagram of the steering gear and you will see.
well id say have your alternator checked for your electrical problem for the steering it soundsl ike something is binding after sitting for a month
I think you have a loose belt that it letting the power steering pump pulley to stall and the belt to slip. Same goes for the alternator. Not all belts squeal when they get loose. Phil
Quote Originally Posted by AZ Jeff You need to let the air rise out of the milkshake That requires the pump to not be running for a bit. Once the air rises out the fluid level will drop and you will need to add more. Then you will need to run the system a bit to circulate the fluild and get more bubbles up to the reservoir. Repeat as needed until unit no longer has air bubble in PS reservoir. This
What steering box did you use Durango Another XJ
Quote Originally Posted by justanotherjpr What steering box did you use Durango Another XJ I stuck with the xj box. I had a 180 budget and was planning on the durango but then i end up not being able to use the oem spacer and had to order one from c-rok. That brought my budget down so i went with the xj.
Suck out all old fluid refill Turn steering wheel 2-3 times from full lock to full lock Suck refill Repeat until only fresh fluid comes out system hold 0.9qts you might need 2qts to flush.
The FSM procedure says the front wheels need to be off the ground. Make sure the reservoir has fluid in it. Start the vehicle for 3-4 seconds letting the PS pump ingest fluid. Turn vehicle off. Turn steering wheel lock to lock 20 times. (I know what a PITA.) If bubbles form in the reservoir wait 2 minutes. Make sure reservoir stays at the proper level. When completed make sure the reservoir dipstick is at the C mark.
Quote Originally Posted by doityourselfMM The FSM procedure says the front wheels need to be off the ground. Make sure the reservoir has fluid in it. Start the vehicle for 3-4 seconds letting the PS pump ingest fluid. Turn vehicle off. Turn steering wheel lock to lock 20 times. (I know what a PITA.) If bubbles form in the reservoir wait 2 minutes. Make sure reservoir stays at the proper level. When
Correct. Here is the page from the FSM. Refer to SERVICE PROCEDURES POWER steering PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION. Quote Originally Posted by AliAbed thank you my friend if the fluid is in the cold line when the jeep is cold should the fluid be in the hot line dipstick when the engine warmed
does the currie system feel like stock steering thats kinda what i want again is a stock steering feeling
the 2 guys in the club running the currie and the rk steering is dave(2000xj) and steve pic(pics xj). dave ran the currie sytem and loved it up until he slid into a rock during the winter trail ride and bent the tie rod. steve pic is running the rk steering with his rk 3 link. i was at his house b4 he got it installed but i asked him how he liked it when he got it installed and he said he loved it.
Quote Originally Posted by jersey_jim does the currie system feel like stock steering thats kinda what i want again is a stock steering feeling yup its the same geometry inverted-Y. definitely the way to go for a quality bolt on upgrade. ive seen it get bent but only under really hard abuse.
Quote Originally Posted by T4STE the 2 guys in the club running the currie and the rk steering is dave(2000xj) and steve pic(pics xj). dave ran the currie sytem and loved it up until he slid into a rock during the winter trail ride and bent the tie rod. steve pic is running the rk steering with his rk 3 link. i was at his house b4 he got it installed but i asked him how he liked it when he got it installed
I would say go with currie but Im not sure if that setup works with 6 of lift. I will be at 6.5 when all is said and done but Im going with the Off Road Only crossover steering which is about 650 but its the best steering upgrade out there as far as bolt-on. The OTK kits are expensive and require alot of fab work which I dont want to mess with.
well im guessing that if it suddenly failed power steering fluid eats rubber... at least MC seal rubber. pull it apart and rebuild your master pretty cheap. take a look at your flex lines while its off and see if any fragments come out of them. try bleeding them again take a large syringe and pump the fluid from the calipers through to the master. this is how bicycle brakes are bled and its the easiest and best method ive found for the heep too it pushed bubbles UP instead of down... good luck
Quote Originally Posted by bikedude189 well im guessing that if it suddenly failed power steering fluid eats rubber... at least MC seal rubber. pull it apart and rebuild your master pretty cheap. take a look at your flex lines while its off and see if any fragments come out of them. try bleeding them again take a large syringe and pump the fluid from the calipers through to the master. this is how
I was turned away from that stuff by many people when I was searching for the perfect D30 steering(my guess that is what you have too) I went with the TeraFlex High steer kit(so far it working 100% for me) if you want really beef just buy the knuckle and make ur own tieroddraglink or have a shop... some really solid DOM with 1-ton balljoints
Quote Originally Posted by Technohead This httpwww.currieenterprises.comces...nc.aspxid913 Done. Hi Eric I know you recommend this system and i am seriously considering it. I wonder if other systems are available to compare. At your current ride height does this linkage system bind or drag on any part of your axle when i installed my IRO suspension i was directed to put some additional bend in the
The Tie rod will have small amount of twist If you grab it and roll it back or down. The TRE is design to have that for the cycling of the steering. It should NOT have any side to side play at all though. Check for play at the TREs and look at the steering box and make sure the bolts are on there and tight. Look for cracks in eth mount area around the box as well.
steering box seals will do this from time to time... or you broke the high pressure line
a lot of people swap to a dodge durango steering box right