Great pressure does build up inside but the neck on yours must have been weak with a hairline fracture or something to bust there or just plain and simple crappy Chrysler products. Most likely what has occurred is the fan relay for the radiator fan went out causing the the radiator to abnormally overheat like crazy causing extreme pressure and in return could not cool the AC condenser down which explains
I have a 2000 jeep Grand cherokee 4.0L. I replaced the radiator by myself last week. It wasnt that hard. Are you good with wrench If so you can do that. Youll need Torx tools to loosen some of torx-head screws. For the first time it would take you about 4 to 6 hours. I had to remove the radiator TWICE because I didnt tighten the fittings to the new radiator in the first place. For the 2nd time of removal
So 350 and a new radiator im still worried about some other problem building up pressure like my cooling fan not working properly. httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf13e...s-turn-571919 I found this discussion but cant get a straight answer If i just start up my car and turn on AC. Should the fan directly behind the radiator also spin if not it could be my relay
I changed the radiator on my 02 4.7 limited w tow package. Everything is a tight fit ... Took 6 hours and a new hydraulic fan hose . radiator was after market ( 170) hose was 35 . Cause of failure was a rock punctured the core . As far as the commen crappy Chrysler parts comment my jeep takes exception to that at 160000 miles and still looks and runs like new with nothing else but normal maintenance
Maybe this brings up the great spring clamp vs worm clamp debate The inlet tube on the radiator is plastic I guess there is a possibility that worm clamp un-seated due to exspansioncontraction I know I am over thinking this entire thing and only timemore miles will tell but its just odd to me...
KNOW THAT FEELING.... but mine got reallllly hot before popping offalmost in the red but was two blocks from home. luckily I was already home when the hose blew off. Was it overheating prior to this
Quote Originally Posted by tufmar Maybe this brings up the great spring clamp vs worm clamp debate The inlet tube on the radiator is plastic I guess there is a possibility that worm clamp un-seated due to exspansioncontraction I know I am over thinking this entire thing and only timemore miles will tell but its just odd to me... The cheap worm drive hose clamps loosen up. All of them every time. Use spring clamps NAPA has them. They are more expensive.
Funny same thing happened to me Tuesday night about 2 miles from home. The hose HAD the factory spring clamp on there and sure as hell it came off. Put a GOOD quality hose clamp on there and kept the spring clamp as a back up.
tried all kinds of jb weld didnt work I looked around and found a brand new radiator cost was 80 bucks had it in 3 days no more head ache
i looked it up at radiator barn to double check. they list two different ones. 1996 jeep cherokee SubmodelALL MODELS Engine SizeL42.5L150ci ACFOR BOTH AC AND NON AC VEHICLES Specifications Core Size 16-34 X 20-18 X 58 inlet Header 2-38 X 20-34 Outlet Header 2-38 X 20-34 inlet Connection 1-14 Outlet Connection 1-12 Transmission Oil Cooler YES Engine Oil Cooler NO Mounting Engine SizeL64.0L242ci ACFOR
Posted by awkrueger If youre looking for a good replacement radiator check out Built Tough radiator. Heard alot of good things about them. Thats where Ill be getting my replacement. httpbtr-radiator.com seems legit but im looking for a rad to fit a 95 XJ auto trans. read this product description httpbtr-radiator.comPartsListing.aspx BTR Part 1193-3MT Flat Rate Shipping 25.00 Name 1991-1997 jeep
95. I have already ordered it dont want to bone the guy. Does yours have the 1 12 inch inlet and does your XJ have an upper hose that is 1 12 at the radiator end If so shoot me a VIN and ill order the hose from the stealer. LPS only show the hose I have with 1 12 at stat hsg end and 1 14 at radiator end. He says hell build it with the 1 14 inlet though. Just waiting on me.
I noticed it on the site... httpwww.btr-radiator.compartslis...&id4-1&id5-1 So I called to verify the spec posted. He looked at the tech drawings he has and the only 1.25 inlet was for postal use all others spec a 1.5 in inlet. I was gonna get the number off of an extra stock radiator I have so he could look at the specs of it but the one I have has no tag or PN on it. Im gonna call jeep and get the PN for mine by VIN and give him the info.
22) Remove the upper cross member bolts (2x10mm per side 4 total) 23) Remove 2x13mm hood latch bolts a. Mark outside of bolt heads for reinstallation to line up hood latch correctly 24) Remove the upper cross member from the vehicle and set aside 25) Remove the upper radiator hose by using a channel-lock pliers or Vise-Grip to hold the clamp open and slide it down the house and out of the way a. If
this makes the third time in as many months. grr. i did use the bleeder. several times within the first few hundred miles. im curious to try the method of not having to disconnect the condensor. i dont think pulling it added too much time to the process but it did add to the cost (refilling the ac). however im not sure if i could separate the condensor from the radiator while its still in the jeep
in the other half is due yesterday. Cant wait to get it and install the new rad OEM fan clutch and FlowKooler wp. Not having heating issues just want the bigger core better wp and a new fan clutch because we do 4-5 day trips out in the southern deserts and dont want issues. Reminds me gotta call him tomorrow. And the spec he lists for his rad is 1.5 in on the inlet. Mine is 1.25. He said postal jeeps
HA Thats the radiator I got Fed ex man handled it and bent the core. They threw it so hard it bent the locating pins on the bottom rail 25 degrees in the middle of the pins. The inlet tank got crunched at the drain cock too. The box still has the 8.5x11 FedEx Pick-up paper you put on it. I still have faith JD has been Johnny-on-the-spot when it comes to keeping me up to speed on the issues on his end.
Just a thought Here is what I found when I replaced my radiator From the factory the put little black plastic caps over the inlet and outlet hose holes on the radiator. they have change the fittings on the radiator for some of the jeeps so what they did was put the new adapters in the radiator behind the cap. I did not know they were there until I started to fill. Funny story. I was replacing this
Quote Originally Posted by sadass Just a thought Here is what I found when I replaced my radiator From the factory the put little black plastic caps over the inlet and outlet hose holes on the radiator. they have change the fittings on the radiator for some of the jeeps so what they did was put the new adapters in the radiator behind the cap. I did not know they were there until I started to fill.
Id like to first take a look at the lower cooler line. At the radiator there is a steel elbow that connects between the radiator core and the quick disconnect. Does that elbow screw onto or screw into the radiator core and is this junction metal or plastic I have a few feet of braided line that I got from summitracing a while back and I believe the external diameter is about the same as the rubber
For those 2 years I couldnt keep the resevoir tank full. Then one day out of the blue steam started coming out of the pasenger side fender turns out the plastic tank had developed a hairline crack at the inlet. So here I was wmy DD out of commision found an replacement for a 100. Turned out to be a CSF wplastic tanks. I figured the OEM one lasted a 180k this one should last longer than the jeep
Quote Originally Posted by three_jeeps Some questions regarding R&R or radiator 2004 WJ std 4.7L jeep service manual says to replace the O rings on the hydraulic fan high pressure inlet fittings. When I removed the fittings I did not see any O rings. Are there any IF so what is the chances that Ill have a problem Power Steering - I lost quite a lot of fluid when I removed the fittings to the hydraulic
that drip from the weep hole to the hose inlet. Thanks a bunch. Guess I know what Ill be doing soon. Any tips on what else to change if I am only doing the water pump and have already changed the lower hose This rig is my DD that is mostly stock so I dont think I am in need of a pump upgrade. Is all your cooling system as old as the water pump My preference is to do it this way .... httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf11c...mlpost9703525
Are you sure the radiator inlet didnt break Typically the barb that your hose clamp butts up against is molded into the inlet itself. If the part that the hose slips over is smooth then you need to replace your radiator.
My jeep kept losing antifreeze also. It was a small crack on the under side where the water inlet meets the radiator right below the cap.
Workin on the jeep late tonight. All by my self and no garage. Had to wait til the rain stopped too. And after taking everythin off and lookin around I found my leak source About a foot give or take crack down the inlet side of the radiator Any suggestions on temp fixing until payday or just get a whole new rad
Quote Originally Posted by eagsc7 My ZJ DID have a radiator replaced. The tranny cooler lines go to an auxilary cooler. I cant find where they would have gone into the radiator regularly. Does this mean that the shop put the wrong radiator in Currently its working ok BUT I want to dual plumb the trans cooler into an OEM radiator. Why... More Cooling. I Fried the tranny due to overheating a couple months