the difference is the amount of braiding inside the hose. Transmission lines are subject to very high pressure. I would try to get the right hose soon.
The cooler lines are not under much pressure at all. The pressure is all inside the tranny. I have run fuel hose for 3 years now without issue.
Quote Originally Posted by the_weirdo The cooler lines are not under much pressure at all. The pressure is all inside the tranny. I have run fuel hose for 3 years now without issue. This is good to hear. The hose that was on it from the factory was garbage and was still holding fine. The leak was from the press fitting to the hard line. I guess we will see what happens but like I said... it seems fine for now.
im running fuel hose and it works just fine.
I kept my rad cooler more for fluid warming in the winter. Some of the guys who live in the south eliminate the rad cooler altogether. Most of the guys up north will keep that loop to help warm the fluid in the winter. Probably doesnt make a big difference. I bought the Hayden from advance. It works fine and is almost identical to the B&M. Dont use fuel line use tranny fluid line.
appear that this model has a different fuel line set up. The best I can surmise is the fuel straight out the tank to filter mounted within the engine compartment to a lift pump mounted just in front of rocker cover. From their to high pressure pump. Can anyone with knowledge let me know if this assumption is correct before I start replacing bits or dropping fuel tanks etc. Also anyone know of a jeep
fuel pumps 15-16 years ago which said theres problems with these pumps failing when overheating to begin with. Not sure you have much choice but to drop your tank and replace the pump assembly. I went with an OEM quality Bosch 67646 Electric fuel Pump Assembly for my 96 ZJ from Amazon for 222. Fits both the 4.0 and 5.2 96 ZJs. But if you have a 96 XJ it takes another model of fuel pump. httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf13f...post13861074
can switch to a larger tire and re-gear to match but you still have the rolling resistance of larger wider tires to overcome. 7) Switch to a manual trans. Manuals have less parasitic drag on the engine you control your own shift points keeping it at lower RPMS and it weighs a lot less than an auto fluid and cooler setup. 8) REDUCE WEIGHT. Who needs power windows and an overhead console This is a jeep
a pack of 4 for about 3. Here is the link for the lines at Napa. They may not stock them but they can usually get them the next day. Take the part numbers with you incase the person working there cant use a computer. httpwww.napaautoparts.commasterp...Line&VehCodeY The lines are pretty long like 5 and 6 ft. Now would be a good time to install a aux tranny cooler also. Theres a nice write up on jeepin.com
Quote Originally Posted by jeeples Along with that look for fuel injection style hose clamps. They have smooth bands vs. the slotted ones found on traditional worm drive clamps. The slots in the worm drives can cut into the hose and cause leaks. Real good point and fuel injector type clamps are what I tried to use when just installing a trans oil cooler and half the metal lines on my sons 96 4.0 XJ.
Thanks guys Very good information. I think Ill check out Rock Auto and try to get the replacements as that is not a bad deal at all. And I understand putting a slight flare on the end of tubing to keep the hoses from sliding off. I got to thinking.... several years ago I needed to replace the fuel hoses on my 1995 CumminsDodge pickup with a 12 valve engine. The lines are only about a foot long each
Youre probably going the best route by installing all new metal lines. Ive found it best on the quick-disconnect fittings to blast some brake cleaner in the fitting to to get the dirtgrit out maybe blow some air in there and then follow it up with a rust cutter. Always helps to have a 38 quick-disconnect tool around. Ive never installed rubber hose in place of metal trans lines until I just plumbed
not offering this idea as a way of fixing a 4.0 overheating issue. Im not that stupid but the facts regarding the 4.0s heat and cooling are relevant to this idea so I expressed them. And there are rare situations where a fully-functional stock cooling system is inadequate (but there are lots of other more effective ways of enhancing cooling). The if it aint broke sentiment is overpowering among jeepers
Awesome Ya I just got my jeep out of the shop bc I had a fuel leak from the fuel filter and some other things wrong my parents moved so I have no garage or tools to work on it. I had them quote a tranny cooler wow it was expensive. So now its either to uhaul or junkyard for a hitch. hmm Im almost ready to tow
beat the below price of 120 for a Brand New Bosch 67649 fuel Pump Module for 97-98 on a 97 4.0 ZGZJ. Even with 52.40 shipping to QueenlandAustralia its a heck of a deal. Youll have to open an ebay and PayPal account if you dont already have one but its easy to do. E-Herko on ebay is a very reputable dealer some of us have used and Bosch is now the replacement OE supplier of fuel pump modules to jeepChrysler.
The dealer wants 23 each. Found them online fuel Oil cooler Line Repair Kit83504447 by the jeep Specialists Morris 4x4 Center
There are two o-rings separated by a spacer. fuel Oil cooler Line Repair Kit83504447 by the jeep Specialists Morris 4x4 Center
fuel Oil cooler Line Repair Kit83504447 by the jeep Specialists Morris 4x4 Center
If you smack the tank and it starts working then go buy a pump. FYI I think he ment theres a seperate fuel pump relay not pcm. Theres only 1 pcm in a jeep...Rob 1 more quick note your fuel pump gets hot while operating thus you should never run your tank below 14 tank of fuel. The more fuel you have the cooler the pump will be...Rob
it cost about 10 at the junk yard. you take the pancake air hat off and install the one from a 5.2 durango witch helps the motor rev its not a power adder its mostly response and a few ponies. you do have to cut the hood frame a little but any DIY guy could do it with a grinder and some patience. be sure to take the durango longer stud( its obvious) next is the taurus e fan conversion. httpwww.jeepforum.comforumf13f...l-pics-233676
Quote Originally Posted by padgett If it were designed only for 87 PON that would be correct but the Pentastar is flex fuel so aint necessarily so. Have been accused of making things to complex so will leave almost all math out. There are two important things about fuels (gasoline diesel ethanol) for IC engines 1) energy per gallon 2) flame propagation rate (how fast it burns) These are not the same. Whether racing or just driving the purpose is the same maximum chamber pressure with an even burn at the sweet spot (varies by engine but generally between 5 and 15 degrees ATDC). Everything that goes on is a SWAG at making this happen. Oh and while cleaning the air. Alcohol has about 34 the energy of gasoline so you need more (richer mixture) 87 PON burns faster (doesnt need as much advance) than 89 or 93 (am at sea level so 93 is common here - whole nother subject). OK forgetting the energy part which is as (1) E85 is the equivalent of about 105 octane gas which means it burns slower than anything youd find other than at a race track or airport. Bottom line is that a normal car designed for 87 PON will have shorter advance maps than one designed for premium and may act retarded (less power) on 93 because it cannot dial in enough advance for the slower burning fuel. Pentastar is different. Since it is designed for either 87 PON or E85 (and everything in the middle) the maps will need to have enough advance for a 105 octane fuel. So you might see some benefit from the higher octane. In fact with the current 2 cyl. problem using 89 for heavy loads at low rpm might be a good idea. I saw mention that the P0302 may have a fuel component as a cause and wondered about the 85 octane common in mountain states. So the computer is designed to recognise E85 or lesser mix so must be able to advance far enough the question is whether it can recognise the difference between 87 and 93 octane. If I was designing the PCM periodically (once a minute ) when at steady state (in cruise under 40% PLA and not overheating is nice) Id ramp up the advance to the edge of detonation then back off a degree or two. That is the sweet spot and possible with modern electronics. True PID feedback loop. Now whether Chrysler does this is unknown. Would probably not help with EPA ratings but could make a big difference in miles and miles of miles and miles on the Interstate. Is part of the digital engine controls for some jet engines. Back in 73 Pontiac got in big trouble with the EPA for doing something similar (why the engine color changed) but they didnt have computer controls just a timer. However for the pentastar Id need to look at the programming to know how they detect gasahol and what they do about it & Chrysler does not share that with mere owners. Alternative would take a multifulel system (trivial) a tablet OBD dongle 5 program and a couple of days of testing. So 50k (5k for the test 45k for explaining what it all means). Short answer maybeso. ps still think everything would last longer if run 15-25F cooler & engine fan was brought in sooner. AS for the CAI throw away the filter (stock is fine) and keep the hose I was seeing 150F IAT today. One of these is a turbo diesel. Thanks for the info...I think my jeep does perform better with 89 octane
Quote Originally Posted by rawk hard xj I had holes in the rigid line and just cut out the bad spot and patched in some rubber fuel line with hose clams. no no no no no My Dodge Dart caught in fire because someone thought that was a good idea - someone patched a cooler line with fuel line rather than actual transmission hose. Sprung a leak while I was driving and because it was dark I didnt notice
Quote Originally Posted by N8N no no no no no My Dodge Dart caught in fire because someone thought that was a good idea - someone patched a cooler line with fuel line rather than actual transmission hose. Sprung a leak while I was driving and because it was dark I didnt notice the smoke right away. Had to waste a fire extinguisher and my transmission was garbage after that. Yes transmission hose exists
First off running hotter and using higher octane case have NOTHING to do with each other. The only reason that some engines require higher octane is if they have a higher compression ratio...period. Next yes the same mathematical formulas apply to race cars as well as jeeps. They are both internal combustion engines. You said something to do with the fuelair mixes. Gasoline is ONLY combustable at a
and better mileage pump cooler air into it. Insulate the stock airbox get a snorkel and relocate the IAT from the manifold to the airbox lid. Oh yeah pull the lead out of your right foot make sure your tires arent under inflated and make sure youre running the proper gears for your tire size. Those three things right there can make a bigger difference than any engine mod. And dont ever assume jeep
On a carb car 190 or so is a good constant temp to shoot for in a fuelie New cars come with a 205-210 stat. The reason for the high stat is EMISSIONS.. has nothing to do with mileage. The hotter your engine the hotter the cat the hotter the cat (up to a point) the more effective it is. Engine wear is a non issue over an operating temp of about 185. If you put a 180 tstat in the jeep and you temps drops
I dont run anything over 89 in my xj but from years of racing quadsbikes i learned that fuel has alot to do with how your engine performs the higher the octane the cooler it burns also... as far as running hightext in your jeep (wheelin) imho i dont see a need for it... but thats just my 2 cents and im pretty sure the way gas prices are itd be your 15 dollar differnce in the tank
I just bought a tranny cooler I will be installing it this weekend and i was wondering what would be considered over cool. I bought a B & M tranny cooler 24000lbs gvw. What would happen if i over cooled it I understand that running a motor too cold is terrible for fuel economy but whats the problem in the tranny would the fluid be too thick Anyone know which way the factory auxiliary cooler is run Thanks Jon
Theres a heat exchanger inside the radiator the connectors for that are on the drivers side. There is also a cooler albeit a small one stock on towing package versions. The connectors are on the passenger side. The connectors have always been problematic as they are held in with and o-ring spacer o-ring seal set-up. The connector seals can be found at a.) the dealer b.) Teamcherokee.com or c.) some
you have the idea dremel the ends off cause the high pressure ends they have on there are a jacked up deal. once both ends are dremeld off slap in the new line and clam em 2 on each side id recomend. you should be able to find the tranny cooler line not the fuel line. theres a difference. both rubber just search around even if you have to find it at the dealer Sean
Almost any autoparts store should carry bulk power steering return line that you can also use. Its the same as tranny cooler line (both are hydraulic fluids) but most of the parts jockeys (at least at chain parts stores) wouldnt know this. Definately DO NOT use fuel line It might work temporarily but eventually the tranny fluid will soften it and it will fail. Also use the high-pressure style fuel
I replaced mine when they developed leaks with rubber only I did it from the trasmission all the way to the cooler. I used aftermarket adapters that I found at pepboys --- not exactly my favorite parts store but they had it you should take your old line ends to make sure you have the right threads and you will need ones for your cooler as well. I also used 38 fuel injector hose which is over kill as
Quote Originally Posted by Timmy.o.tool I replaced mine when they developed leaks with rubber only I did it from the trasmission all the way to the cooler. I used aftermarket adapters that I found at pepboys --- not exactly my favorite parts store but they had it you should take your old line ends to make sure you have the right threads and you will need ones for your cooler as well. I also used 38
what would possess someone to do something so ridiculously stupid bypass the transmission cooler... that is as dumb as cutting fuel lines to save on gas. bluepoint i wish you the best of luck. do the fluid change add a large cooler and be nice to it for awhile.
Quote Originally Posted by MSHarnett Which connection are toy talking about There is the upper one which is simply just screwed on and the lower well Im not sure what that is. Are you talking about the factory aux. tranny cooler What are you trying to do Not so on my 01 it has standard quick disconnect fittings similar to fuel lines on top and bottom. I got my answer elsewhere. Simple crow foot type
The bottom line uses a sort of clamshell clamp that you push into the fitting on the trans line going to the rad. It will spread the fingers in the line connection and you pull it off. If you unbolted the connector to the rad it will not come off because it goes into the cooler inside of the radiator and it is soldered inside. The connector you need is the one that I mentioned and the tool is a 516--38th
Quote Originally Posted by hezx so the two front connects are good with those prong things then mine do not have quick connects in the hoses. Ill post a pic if you need to know what Im talking about So are the new lines long enough to reach the radiator or do they stop just short of the fan shroud On my 96 the high pressure quick disconnect in on the male 2-3 metal 30 degree nipple coming out of the
Thanks for the advice buddy you really saved my today. It wasnt reading on the dipstick so I had a co-worker drive me over to advance. Brought back 2 quarts of multi-vehicle (they didnt have any mercon 3) and that was enough to get me back on the road. I bought some coarse sandpaper and some fuel line hose clamps Im going to scuff up the nipple and double-clamp it so dont have to worry about it coming
Just to interject...If you do not have access to a compressor or the valve wont hold pressure you can remove the plug feed sturdy nylon rope in the hole while the piston is at the bottom of its stroke until the cavity is full. Turn the crankshaft and Viola the valve wont fall into the cylinder when you take the keepers and springs off. Just reverse the direction you turned the crank and pull out your rope. BOOM done. Oh just my 2 cents but if your valve wont seal you are better off doing a head job. I know I know but if you take the time and money and get a head job when you determine its an upper engine problem you wont regret it. The 4.0 6 is an easy one to work on. Its an old motor with old school heart even if it has new tech bolted to it. Your Mom probably warned you about listening to a guy that speaks in absolutes but without fail every motor I did a head job on ran stronger cooler and more efficiently. Period. Anyway good luck hope it works out. I loved my 91 cherokee limited had everything....went anywhere.
I was just poking some fun ... Most fuel injection hose is ok. But one must check the SAE to verify as it is not something that you want to gamble with. NAPA sells tranny cooler hose BTW Matt.