For the rears I used 2 Axel stands to put the rear or the car up wheels off so the rear arms are nice and low (suspension damper still connected though) 1 17mm open end spanner 1 11mm brake spanner penetrating oil light Thats it. (other than I may have the spanner sizes wrong lol) Maybe the Sei has slightly more room up there but all it did was get on my back legs sticking out the rear of the car.
Probably be just surface rust easy to deal with Just wire brush back the worst of it and then clean over with a mild degreaser (fairy liduid and warm water for example) then coat in waxoxyl cheap(ish) underseal. Thats what Todger and i have done with my car very cheap to do. The black colour of the waxoxyl wouldnt be seen in the arches either and will provide plenty of protection. As for brake pipes
Yes done it to pretty much all of the arm bolts. Even undoing them slowly They just burnt the WD off. Crazy. Note for anyone else this happens too dont stop. They will seize . Rear beam is painted up and almost ready to go back on Just waiting on a few more parts to get the hoses and pipes into position. Need to wirebrush and underseal it all up first though. Thanks X
When I fitted a matrix to a Cinq the heater hoses went straight onto the matrix pipes and I used hose clips. This is a Sei and the set up is different. There are factory fitted metal pipes on the heater hoses which are shaped to fit over the ridges on the matrix pipes. The metal pipes have holes in the sides to allow thin metal strips to go through and secure around the ridges. The cable ties I fitted
Originally Posted by GeorgeDamper When I fitted a matrix to a Cinq the heater hoses went straight onto the matrix pipes and I used hose clips. This is a Sei and the set up is different. There are factory fitted metal pipes on the heater hoses which are shaped to fit over the ridges on the matrix pipes. The metal pipes have holes in the sides to allow thin metal strips to go through and secure around
Originally Posted by woj Leave the SPI engine loom in place you will only need to cut the injector wiresplug and connect the four plugs for the MPI injectors this will just work as it is a batch system. One other wire that may give you a headache is the CTS plug but also simple to fix (not sure if your donor engine has two CTS or one). Use the MK1 Punto ECU (unless it has ECOL written on it but I doubt it since the donor car is 98). Keeping the SPI loom will let you place the ECU in the designated place under the good the Punto loom is totally different layout. Mechanically it is also simple one thing I struggled with was that the 1.2 engine is taller and some water pipes were just too short. And then there is the exhaust things to sort out. CTS plug fit without problem (only Palio have 3 pin plug) water hoses should be extended (connection with inlet manifold are in diferent place) or find waterhoses from seicento 1.1 MPI it fits straight one thing more better if donor (punto) has no power steering .
sorry mate had to get that one in was to good an opportunity to miss lol - The headlight bleed screw fills up with water - good - The bulkhead bleed screw doesnt fill up with water - balls - The heater doesnt blow warm air - balls - The hose coming from the thermostat housing is cold (when coolant light is on) - hmmm dodgy thermostat - Fan doesnt kick in - dodgy fuse dodgy rad sensorswitch thing dodgy
Originally Posted by hf turbo sorry mate had to get that one in was to good an opportunity to miss lol so u now have water at both bleeding points any hot air inside do both pipes going to n from the matrix get hot do all coolant pipes get hot is the fan kicking in if not try bridging the connection in the wire going to the rad fan switch with a paperclip.. if the fan starts you know thats ok chances
Im still here and I still have my Cinq in fact may upload some updated pics later of some new stuff i have done. For the newbies that may not know my car its an Imola Blue Abarth with hi-boost turbo tho this car has been seriously re-engineered. heres the low down apart from normal VAD turbo stuff like Auqamist MF2 injector driver VAD fuel cut defender low compression pistons running 8.21 ratio (standard
Originally Posted by J333EVO Im still here and I still have my Cinq in fact may upload some updated pics later of some new stuff i have done. For the newbies that may not know my car its an Imola Blue Abarth with hi-boost turbo tho this car has been seriously re-engineered. heres the low down apart from normal VAD turbo stuff like Auqamist MF2 injector driver VAD fuel cut defender low compression
working fine all water pipes feel hot and the thermostat is opening since the top radiator hose is hot. In addition the system was flushed and cleaned (thats when my problem started) - The fan turns on if I short the switch that goes to the temp sensor mounted on the radiator and looks to be in good working condition. - The radiator temp sensor switch was replaced yesterday with a new one from fiat
Originally Posted by Bnmtuning Thanks for the replies. Everything is wires up as it should the temp is reading around 60 give or take but nothing more. Now theres a little screw on the adaptor (on the hose) and Im going to try & ground this and see if that helps. Best way to route wires through to inside of car If youre using an inline adaptor its absolutely essential you ground that screw. Normaly the sender wold be grounded by the engine block in a pipe adaptor the rubber hoses isolate it.
Follow the good advice given above at first I thought you were refering to chinq and gave you info on that vehicle sorry much more experienced people than me on the Sie S that can help you still 1-6 info should be ok. 1.Inspect the hoses going to the rad for the type of retaining clips used if they are factory fitted get the correct size jubilee clips. 2. Make sure you have enough antifreez and a bole
Not a wire a vacuum pipe for the map sensor. Needs to be on the brass bit sticking out from the end of the rubber tube on the side of the TB . Undo the rusty hose clip. Take off the the little bit of rubber tube. Chuck it away. Get new clip. Attach it to the hose. Fit the hose. That will sort a lot of your problems. Your car is getting air from where it shouldnt and the map sensor is not working. Cheers D shell2902 thanked for this post
Quote Buy a Haynes or Porter manual. The procedure is covered quite well in there. Potted version Drain oil and water - dispose of in an environmentally friendly manner. Remove exhaust manifold and front pipecat section. Remove intake manifold and throttle body. Remove gear linkages - unbolt the front one and pop the balljoint of the rear one. Remove the speedo cable from the gearbox end. Remove driveshafts
right i have just dont this conversion on my cinq so here goes you need the code box and matching key for the ecu you need to make up a spacer that goes between the inlet manifold and TB or you will end up with the bonnet not closing if you have a strut brace you will have to bin it or mod it as it will rub against your airbox you will need to splice the 4x2mpi injector wires together in to the 2x
i have changed prob more than 100 easy lift rear of car suport tank no nead to go under seat lower exhuast dont nead to remove itremove 3bolts lower tank so you can get to pipes and wires cut hose clip at front and top of tank factory clip cannot be used again same with filler clip so replaceremove filter remove tank swop pump 7mm nuts and rebuild
Originally Posted by spookycinq Hi ive got trouble putting my cinq into any gear & when its in gear feels like not secure in gear (gear stick really moves about) Any suggestions Also the fan doesnt cut in so need another fan but earlier today i see a puddle on the floor i looked underneath the bonnet & it seemed like water was coming out of something underneath the exhaust manifold anyone got an idea
Originally Posted by funkycinq I thought this too but on closer inspection (mine being a cinq sporting) small screw under the throttle cable (left side near idle stepper control) its an arse to adjust cause of the pipes and wires but had to do mine slighty Sam the thing u are refering to is just the stop on the throttle cable. Its the same as messing with the length of the throttle cable. Its not really
Despite a few negative comments i went ahead and bought on of these ive had it on for a few days now and im happy with the results. I wanted basically a temperature gauge but after reading the guide on how to fit one and looking at the price i thought this was an easier option than messing around cutting pipes trying to wire it up bleeding the system etc etc. So straight out the box plug the lead into
Benefits of STS Remote-Mounted Turbochargers Lower underhood temperatures. No need to worry about melting wires hoses or other engine components as with a front-mounted turbo . Ease of installation. STS turbo systems can be installed in about 8 hours with standard tools and average mechanical ability. Cooler oil to the turbo . Cool oil is better for both the turbo and engine. Performance Sound. The