HI SILLYBilly The sealing gasket should be provided with a new filter.Use the one fitted to the old filter if it is not. You will NOT get a seal without this. CHANGED MY FILTER YESTERDAY. Undo the three retaining bracket nuts to enable you to raise the filter case to enable you to tighten the cable assembly at the base of the filter Before bolting the filter holder to the bulkhead bracket.
Originally Posted by hastingsmum Sorry missed this great thanks Im convinced and already searched ebay for anything fiat 17 lol If you can get hold of get factory multipla Alloys both 17 no fiddling around with bolts and spacers. Good Luck. __________________ Current fiat Own 200808 Alfa Romeo 159 Q4 Previous fiat Owns 200857 fiat multipla 1.9 Multijet 140 bhp Eleganza 200555 fiat Stilo Multiwagon
I HAVE FITTED 20mm concentric spacers to my multipla JTD ELX which convert THE PDC FROM fiat TO VAUXHALLVOLKSWAGEN FIT to give a bigger choice of ALLOYS and cheaper ones too.It is also lowered using PI springsthis has the effect of pushing the wheels right to the corners of the vehicle for better road handling and a cooler stance.21545 17 tyres.
Originally Posted by Multi man145 I HAVE FITTED 20mm concentric spacers to my multipla JTD ELX which convert THE PDC FROM fiat TO VAUXHALLVOLKSWAGEN FIT to give a bigger choice of ALLOYS and cheaper ones too.It is also lowered using PI springsthis has the effect of pushing the wheels right to the corners of the vehicle for better road handling and a cooler stance.21545 17 tyres. I dont what any of that means but it sounds so good I want to do it
where did you get your spacers from I have found some but they are very expencive. Kingy0095
what the numbers mean. 7jx17 is 17 rim which is 7 wide so 6.5jx15 is a 15 rim 6.5 wide. ET is how far from the centre of the wheel the mating face (ie. the bit that contacts the hub on the car) is in this case 35mm which is 3.5mm off standard you could live with that without needing spacers. Other factors you need to take into consideration Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) - multipla like most other fiats
I took mine off with a Stanley knife but then I wasnt planning on putting it back on Remove the right-hand wheel and then the plastic guard in front of the strut. Youll then be able to see the tensioner pulley... Make a rough sketch of the belt routing or take a picture. Take a 15mm socket with long extension and put it on the bolt head in the middle of the pulley. Turn anti-clockwise and the pulley
I unbolted the alternator this way I could nearly face them to myself and see what I was doing. As I unbolted the alternator the top spacer fell out I heard it but didnt see it never mind Ill make another and maybe glue it in place on refitting a new alternator. I didnt need to shift the engine on its mounts or mess about with the drive shaft. Attached Thumbnails     __________________ fiat
Originally Posted by the frog A member on the fiat multipla site purchased a set of Stilo rims and...............they dont fit due to the offset at Dave has pointed out. Any decent Alloy Wheel place should be able to sort you out though. could he correct it with spacers
It looks like they come in various offsets (the ET numbers) you need to find out which yours are as you may need spacers which in turn will mean you will need longer bolts.
hi just checked on invoice and ET 38 how do i know if i need spacers does et have match the one from the 15 standard ones thanks
The multipla came with factory fitted 17s. They were 75 x 17 ET 315. Your ET 38 could be a bit much as theres not much room on the inside of the wheel. I would just try to fit them and see how it works. If it doesnt rub anywhere you dont need spacers. Concerning the two bolts you have to remove - just remove them. This means that the brake disc will be allowed to rotate compared to the hub which will
Most are universal as I try eBay under multipla wheel spacer there is some x7 standards from Colchester 5er each and original built for multiplas hope this helps
I think Multis standard offset is ET35 so a 5mm spacer will do it speak to richie.guy and hell sort you out with the extended bolts as well. httpwww.fiatforum.comclassifieds...t22172&cat17
12mm take them out they are not important they just help with a wheel change. dont get multi fit spacers get ones with correct pcd and cbore
Originally Posted by dave 12mm take them out they are not important they just help with a wheel change. dont get multi fit spacers get ones with correct pcd and cbore Yeah 12mm that was what I meant Richies spacers are the right ones and very well priced too
Another day another dollar. Todays progress Fitted new swing arm bearings. Judging by the tales of grief recounted on the forum I think I got pretty lucky with removing the old swing arm bolts and bearings. Both arms were removed and the bearings knocked out in about 10 minutes. It was a LOT easier to do this with the subframe dropped. I would have spent a lot longer p1ssing about with the subframe
If your old bolts are flanged as in like a flat washer as part of the bolt they nay not work with alloys. If your old bolts have a 60 degree radius they may work with alloys if they are the correct length. multipla wheels are hubcentric anyway so you may need to fit spacers to get the alloys on anyway. - Hubcentric - means that the wheel relies on its centering at the hub - lugcentric - wheels rely on fastener alignment alone.
Originally Posted by fredwlms My 2003 multiplas rear nearside wheel is leaning in at the top and is rubbing on the body. Any thoughts on why and how to fix it would be very welcome. Maybe consider spacers To push the wheels out Lol at me trying to get by in the Multipa section with a Punto P
hi all. I wanted to see one done as lack of rear length is a major prob with these other wise marvalouse vehicles. most campers have a foot or two beyond the rear wheels which then gives you 6ft behind the front seats. looked for swivels but they only seem to be made for the vw body......perhaps they will redrill and use spacers to make fit the seat bottom properly.......... not looked at the option of taking the seat off the mounting.......... regards don
roll bar goes across the car and connects to the staberliser link bar the anti roll bar crosses over the rear of the wishbone bracket (nearest the driving seat) the gap is so tight the roll bar is nocking the bracket when going over bumps i could remove the anti roll bar bracker put the washerspacer i have found which i think will equal the gap to match the nearside but surley this cannot be a fiat
The front Bushes due to the GeometryLayout of the Suspension Arms are subject to both upwards and downwards loading. They need to be a very tight fit in the Subframe. Im wondering if thats why fiat dont supply spares One of mine (Vauxhall Vectra items) came loose after a while resulting in a knocking over bumpsdips. I had to make some spacers to hold it in place.
When I got my car it had non-standard 16 wheels on. I discovered that some wheels only had 3 wheel bolts on them and the bolts were forced on. So I had to buy spacers to stop the wheels rubbing on the bodywork and spigot rings to make the wheels fit the hub and wobbly bolts to hold the wheels on Its alot of messing around. I would look for fiat wheels If I were you.
stay away from univeral spacers these Uno Bravo Brava Mar&233a Croma Palio multipla Punto Tipo Tempra fit a cento. httpwww.performancefx.netwsfiat.htm
Originally Posted by dave stay away from univeral spacers these Uno Bravo Brava Mara Croma Palio multipla Punto Tipo Tempra fit a cento. httpwww.performancefx.netwsfiat.htm may i ask why
On the 17 boolahs assuming you have the correct alloys you will probably need to fit spacers I did on both my BUGs. For all the info have a look here mate
Dint think of that one the spacer size should be 5 mm if standard as sold on eBay as a refirb if any r needed can supply item numbers cheapest I found
Your prob catching the inner gaurd on the rears a quick bend should sort it. Or try and pick up some cheap 5mm spacers off an alfa romeo 155 ive got some on myself.
That was the guide I refered to when removing everything a good guide I must admit but it doesnt really refer to any difficulty aligning the friction plate. As an update this afternoon an attemp was made to install the new clutch and... Ive broke the new friction plate... the spline follower has come out of the metal press on the back... Still think there should be a spacer or something behind it because
PS I have eLearn and with all respect to whoever compiled it - it is dead wrong on alternator replacement. There is no space with the great big inlet manifold and all the mixer taps heated towel rails and other bathroom fittings in the way. It would take forever to do and is not necessary as it is a relative piece of cake getting out through the gap between the driveshaft and steering rack without
Hi To help to answer your question I have replaced the front sub frame bushes with the ones for the Bravo FirstLine part FSM2026 IIRC which stopped the knocking from pot holes etc. I replaced these on both sides of the car which made a massive difference to the ride however I had to fit these with washers between the bushing and the bolt head as they are thinner than the originals but were available
If you jack the car up at the rear jacking on the chassis not on the subframe or trailing arms then look at the four bushes. Youll see a gap between the subframe and the upper flange of any bush that is loose in the subframe. Lever lightly with a large screwdriver (between the top of the subframe and underside of each bushs upper flange) to make sure theyre all tight in their bores. Edit The rubber
Hi BikeDoc Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to reply. There is certainly a gap between the flange abutting the chassis and the top of the subframe. Ive levered as you suggested and can move the bush downwards somewhat but am not sure how this relates to therm being tight in their bores Also you mention your temporary three spacers fix. I take it that having removed the bolt the spacers are
Wow Thanks for the explanation and the graphics. Ill test as you suggest tomorrow. Im not sure I have the mechanical competence to produce your spacer solution but admire the ingenuity. Im beginning to believe that though this must not be ignored indefinitely it does not pose an immediate safety risk or imminent catastrophic failure My regards Multplicity
Hi hope you have a good time on your trip. As for your spareif you want a 15 tyre do not use a stilo rimunless you use a spacer as the wheel rubs on the body.Grande punto wont fit on to the hub.But the doblo rimstyres will fit. Zundapp thanked for this post
Took my filter off yesterday. Had to remove the fitting from its mounting to get to the upper right engine steady during Alternator replacement so I thought I may as well whip the filter off to check it. Ive been getting the DIES HUMIDITY FILTER warning regularly recently along with several others (just before the Alternator died) so it could be a false alarm. The sensor in the bottom of the filter
Sorry ive just re read your original post and realised they are what you where refaring to yep remove them. I removed mine to fit spacers for my old wheels and one rounded off so if it happens its not the end of the world just take a hammer to them knocking them up then down they should free off but dont hit too hard as they can snap off. As long as you have at least one to put back on you should be ok they are only to centralise the drum on the hub.
Look here..... httpwww.carlsalter.comwheel_fitments.html Yes they are different but you can make spacers that fit your PCD and have studs for the required PCD. hastingsmum liked this post
I too have big BOOLAHs & Alloys but I fitted cheepo spacers to stop the tyres rubbing on the inside edge catching against the plastic inner wheel water arch. The only other occurrence was when the HANDBRICK cable came adrift from one of its clips I cable tied it to test the noise while travelling - then made good the securing of the handbrake cable sheath to the underbody.
Right Gents As promised I have taken a couple of photos of dubious quality showing the alternator slipping through the gap between the bulkhead (specifically the power steering pipe joints) and the driveshaft. As I mentioned earlier I took the alternator out without removing the bearing of the idler driveshaft as people have advised that you do have to. I can confirm with evidence that you can simply
see here from 2011 and here and here I used a mix of 5mm & 10mm dirt cheap alloy spacers on both of my bugs they worked fine heres a pictorial idea of what they are.
I know thats an option but can it be done without damaging either the subframe or the radius arm The seals have a metal insertspacer piece in them so Im guessing youd cut through those as they must protrude either side of the arm by a few mm otherwise the arm would bear on the subframe. First Im going to try removing the Anti-Roll bar and putting an Enerpac hydraulic jack and bar between the two bolt
I think some people may be misunderstanding the actual problem here. The Taper-Roller bearings in the arms are precision parts just like your wheel bearings. If a wheel has a noticeable lean then the bearings are shot not just a tiny bit worn but totally knackered. There is no camber adjustability on the rear wheels the only time it alters is when the bearings start to go. As soon as they do the seals
thanks for advice guys if only i spoke polish its a defo the cars staying so i would like to start enhancing kermit soon ive found some springs -30mm i no they have a problem with alloys not sure wot just yet something about wobble bolts & spacers and i need to source a arbarth kit and ss exhaust and last but by no means least the brakes not a clue if any or wot hubs i could use again then a black
Eurocarparts online battery picker gave me a choice of 9 batteries for a 2004 1.9 Multi the cheapest was a Lion 100. Id measured the old battery- it was approx 24cm wide and 17cm deep. When I got to the shop and the bloke plonked the battery in front of me a quick measure up showed it was too wide (28cm). He had a ferret round and came up with a Lion type 075 which is the right size. Its not exact-